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Chief buggy

94toytruck said:
Me and a few friends have been running lower link mounts like that for a awhile now with no issues. We haven't notched into the cast, just fit the bracket and burned in and wrapped in a welding blanket.
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same
 
jesus man. you are selling me on the super duty axle especially since pumpkin swap is easy.
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no no possible another project for the future. not to derail, buddy and i have been chatting about taking my old toyota engine and dual 4.7 taces and make a light weight rear steer buggy with easy sourced parts like SD axles. thats all. and then seeing how easy you swapped sides sold me on the idea.
a pipe dream if you will...
 
chaplinfj60 said:
so when you swapped the diff from side to side did you keep it the same length?
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yup, direct swap. The math all works out. Literally cut, and swap. The inner knuckles are the same front and back. Obviously you would have to swap the outers side to side so the steering arm is facing forward. The inner sleeve is a piece of 3" .25 wall. bevel and plug weld coming when I do full weld out.
 
So I will post this...I hope it turns out as I planned in the CAD. I ordered a 10 gal cell for this. The same cell that Richard Hulse uses. He has this as an option you can add. I didnt as i wasnt sure which cell I wanted to use....guess what when you use a tape measure and explore options, i came full circle to this as well. He also has a logo'd cradle.

But being that I have a background in AutoCAD(taught it for years). And I have a phenomenal laser cutter local to me. I added some flair to it. This is based on the engine donor which was a pontiac g6. The Logo is a modified pontiac logo from the 30's. and of course some pirate(irate) tribute:flipoff2: I have learned so much from this site and spend TOOOOO much time here over the years :laughing:

JAZ Products 892-010-01 Street Rod Fuel Cell, 10 Gallon

cell pic.jpg
 
So those of you running buggies and 3.9's SteerAndStuff , should i add an accumulator....i have never run one on my 350 and it seems to do ok for the most part.
 
Might look at some old Jesse Haines builds on old site, or maybe reach out on faceagram? He seems pretty cool about sharing info.
 
I didn't do an accumulator at first and only time I had issue was pointing steep down but after one time getting stuck in a snowy crack pointing down my lifters were clattering when I had to start up to assist a recovery I went ahead and added a 3 quart accumulator. Pretty cheap insurance other than finding a place to mount it.
 
Could you put it in the belly beside the trans/exhaust if the exhaust was wrapped?
 
technically i think it can be mounted anywhere. i dont know what kind of temps it ca take, but mine i feel like could take a bit. its a stout container. i guess i would be most worried about the lines going to and from getting hot around exhaust. but i bet it would be fine
 
chaplinfj60 said:
technically i think it can be mounted anywhere. i dont know what kind of temps it ca take, but mine i feel like could take a bit. its a stout container. i guess i would be most worried about the lines going to and from getting hot around exhaust. but i bet it would be fine
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I figure fire wrap the hoses, and insulate the exhaust. But that would allow the shortest run of plumbing and use of space.
 
i say do what ever shielding is needed and run it. how far apart do you anticipate it being? and will there be air flow? or is it trapped in there because of boat sides?
 
My old buggy I had it between the transmission and exhaust but it wasn't super tight there. I have firesleeve on my feed line because it gets close to exhaust to get to the oil filter adapter. Would be easy to use one of those dei clamp on heat shield if needed.
 
My current is a moroso and old buggy was an accusump. Both seems to work fine and both were bought used on ebay. If used I'd pressure test both sides before putting into service. I would recommend a 3qt just to have that much extra reserve time. Remember the accumulator empty capacity is 3qt, once you add nitrogen pressure that offsets capacity. I only pre charge my accumulator to 5psi so will hold the most amount of oil and typically when we are needing the oil we aren't high RPM needing higher oil pressure.
 
pennsylvaniaboy said:
I wonder the same...its seems like moroso, accusump, canton.... I even found some used moroso's on fleebay
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Ive had 2 different accusump branded ones over the years and zero issues, a 3qt and a 2qt. Super simple to rebuild just a couple o-rings, im sure they're all similar so comes down to QC and tolerances.

Years ago a friend had a moroso that always had issues holding pressure, switched to a accusump no issues.

My current 2qt is in cab between seats, easy to operate with a manual valve and away from heat as much as possible.
 
pennsylvaniaboy said:
I wonder the same...its seems like moroso, accusump, canton.... I even found some used moroso's on fleebay
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Canton = accusump.

They are all good. I’ve used all 3 models on various builds and they all work fine.
 
complete noob question here.
is the lower link placement there so the tire does not rub the link bar. in my simple mind i would want the bracket out as far as i could get it.

just asking and trying to understand

thanks
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chaplinfj60 said:
complete noob question here.
is the lower link placement there so the tire does not rub the link bar. in my simple mind i would want the bracket out as far as i could get it.

just asking and trying to understand

thanks
1702055062198.png
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tentatively yes...I havent mounted the steering stuff up. I am basing this off of the numbers provided by H.E.

That said, in the other buggy that my dad has a '05+ d60 in, with the 1550 shafts, it will turn close to 50*. I know in his buggy the links are where you drew and his tires definitely get into the links. plus depending on where i set my shocks, they may go there.
 
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