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Chief buggy

Well I guess it makes sense why it’s so popular. This goes today like lego a Lego project. This like be 2hrs total. Of work. It is really impressive. It would take less time if I had some one reading me part numbers or a big display so I could read the print in the garage.
 

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Giggity this is gonna be sick! I still have those shifters for you also.
 
pennsylvaniaboy said:
Well I guess it makes sense why it’s so popular. This goes today like lego a Lego project. This like be 2hrs total. Of work. It is really impressive. It would take less time if I had some one reading me part numbers or a big display so I could read the print in the garage.
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it would be really great if we had full size pic on here too. just saying ahhahahahaha

looks good so far... :beer::beer:
 
chaplinfj60 said:
it would be really great if we had full size pic on here too. just saying ahhahahahaha

looks good so far... :beer::beer:
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SOOO picky about pics:flipoff2:

Im uploading from the phone. Ill see if there is a diff setting I should select.
 
Well if you like legos, this thing is like that for men. Seriously in about 8-10 hrs of ready and messing about its complete with my engine and trans/cases set it. This is really pretty amazing. I had debated on buying tubing and bender but I could have never turned out a product like this

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No pics of you sitting on a milk crate in the chassis making vroom vroom noises?
 
R-H has everything sorted out on these as long as you don’t insist on running wacky engines transmissions or axles. Looking good!
 
What does RH recommend for drivetrain options in this particular chassis?

PS, I like where this is going.
 
They are a pretty tight chassis. I could not fit the bar between the dash and sub frame on the driver side.
Too much going on right there with my setup and i would have had to push the throttle pedal over so far I wouldnt be able to get both feet on the pedals.
 
I will say, this is the XL chassis. A doubler just fits putting the rear output at the same spot as rear lower links, which should help with geometry and driveshaft plunge, etc.

The 3.9 is close in the frame rails. I would imagine an LS would be super tight. I am also 6'2 and RH said the XL would best be suited for taller peeps.
 
So in looking at the mounts for the motor, trans, and case, it seems like mixed opinions on hard vs bushing. I think I am leaning towards bushing mounted.

I like the idea of not have the wings sticking out from the frame if I need to pull the engine. This allows more room. This would mean I could put tabs and the bushing out at the frame. The other school of thought it to put the bushing in near the block.. I like the idea of doing a goatbuilt style engine mount and skid mount. This might be the route I go if I can make it all fit.
goat engine.jpg



goat engine 2.jpg
 
pennsylvaniaboy said:
goat engine 2.jpg
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I think its cool, but I worry its gonna be in the way for maintenance.

If you have to pull the motor, you hook up the cherry picker and remove the motor mounts and drop the whole horsecollar? is there any reason you'd have to remove the horsecollar and leave the engine in? maybe to change a starter? And the skidplate is removable so you can do an oil change?
 
So my idea to modify that design is to have interlocking tube connectors that go on the down bars, and yes, my skid would be removable. so things like a oil change, pulling the engine pan, etc should be fine. this is also towards the front of the motor, so it shouldnt interfere with the starter
 
I should also add, the "horse collar" uprights are going to be tubing, size TBD. the out rigger to the motor are going to be 1-3/4" DOM. would 1.25x.120 be enough for the down bars to the skid?
 
Well another question for the masses....Link ends.. In the past I have used 1.25Heims at the frame lower, and weld on johnny joints at the axle. Uppers were 7/8 heims, again 5/8 bolts.

The HE tabs are setup up for 3/4" bolts, 2" mount width all around at the frame mounts....so uppers are easy, run 2" wide 7/8x3/4 heims all around, the lowers....heim at both ends and matching bolts and widths....

Or save some money and go single adjustable with the weld on JJ and smaller bolt?
 
pennsylvaniaboy said:
Well another question for the masses....Link ends.. In the past I have used 1.25Heims at the frame lower, and weld on johnny joints at the axle. Uppers were 7/8 heims, again 5/8 bolts.

The HE tabs are setup up for 3/4" bolts, 2" mount width all around at the frame mounts....so uppers are easy, run 2" wide 7/8x3/4 heims all around, the lowers....heim at both ends and matching bolts and widths....

Or save some money and go single adjustable with the weld on JJ and smaller bolt?
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Fuck JJs.
Get the same 7/8x3/4 heims everywhere. You can even use them for steering too.

pennsylvaniaboy said:
I should also add, the "horse collar" uprights are going to be tubing, size TBD. the out rigger to the motor are going to be 1-3/4" DOM. would 1.25x.120 be enough for the down bars to the skid?
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Plenty. I'd go smaller.

FYI I run 1.75x.120 DOM upper links on my 4500lbs buggy that I bash into shit like a dumbass. I've ripped a truss off and plowed into a tree at speed with it and they are still straight. On a lightweight car like yours I'd go to 1.5x.120 uppers to save weight.
 
Yeh, im not sure how much to flirt the line between durable and lightweight.

Current 6k# truggy is 1.75x.120 uppers, lowers are 2x2.25 sq with 1.5"x.120DOM inside and are still holding up.

That was my plan again as they have stood up great for the price.
 
Bebop said:
Fuck JJs.
Get the same 7/8x3/4 heims everywhere. You can even use them for steering too.


Plenty. I'd go smaller.

FYI I run 1.75x.120 DOM upper links on my 4500lbs buggy that I bash into shit like a dumbass. I've ripped a truss off and plowed into a tree at speed with it and they are still straight. On a lightweight car like yours I'd go to 1.5x.120 uppers to save weight.
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You would run 7/8 heims on lowers too?
 
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