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Bebop said:
For a crawler, hell yeah I would !
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but we all say we are crawlers until we have to give it the beans, it launches you up and over and smack ..... into the next big rock or tree. west coast crawler i bet ok. but east i dont know . just my thoughts.
 
Wisconsinite said:
What are you running on your crawler?
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1.25 heims everywhere. Probably overkill on the uppers.
Trailing arms have 1.75 heims and it's definitely overkill.
edit to add steering heim size: They are 7/8x3/4
 
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I personally would not feel comfortable with a 7/8" lower. I would error to the proven 1.25" and standard misalignment spacers w 3/4 bolt to get the 2" mounting width.
 
I think woody is running 7/8" lowers. If I am not mistaken, he killed one a while ago, but it was after a roll or dropping off a ledge directly on to the link.
 
I think people forget how tough 7/8 hiems actually are now that 1 1/4" became the standard for lowers. Shit i remember guys using 3/4" for lowers on heavy rigs on 44s :laughing:

However, I think 7/8" will wear quicker than 1 1/4" so unless it's a super light, go 1 1/4"
 
Some data compiled from FK Rod Ends:

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YotaAtieToo said:
I think people forget how tough 7/8 hiems actually are now that 1 1/4" became the standard for lowers. Shit i remember guys using 3/4" for lowers on heavy rigs on 44s :laughing:
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agreed
 
Weasel said:
Odd man out but no. 1.25" they just hold up better with more metal to spread abuse over. 7/8 uppers, 1.25" lowers. And no on the JJ joints. The only rebuildable joints I'd run are EMF or TMR. Otherwise just rod ends.
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This. 1.25s for lowers are the worry free option.
 
Weasel said:
Odd man out but no. 1.25" they just hold up better with more metal to spread abuse over. 7/8 uppers, 1.25" lowers. And no on the JJ joints. The only rebuildable joints I'd run are EMF or TMR. Otherwise just rod ends.
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I've rebuilt Curry JJ's with good luck. The trick is to open up the porting for the grease access and make sure they are aligned right during reassembly. Makes a world of difference for greasing.
 
'84 Bronco II said:
I think woody is running 7/8" lowers. If I am not mistaken, he killed one a while ago, but it was after a roll or dropping off a ledge directly on to the link.
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Many of the current sub 4000# portal cars are running 7/8-3/4 heims, uppers and lowers. I run the cheap ones and have bent one in 2+ years of mall crawling.
 
white-rhino said:
I've rebuilt Curry JJ's with good luck. The trick is to open up the porting for the grease access and make sure they are aligned right during reassembly. Makes a world of difference for greasing.
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JohnnyJ said:
I have 7/8x3/4 on all my links. Ran them on 4500 car, too.
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What size did Jeremy kill at Mamoth? 3/4-3/4? Was that on an Upper?
 
Just a quick question since this thread has a bunch of traffic with current buggy owners/builders, While in the process of building what is used to keep the chassis from flash rusting during the fabrication phase? Is it as easy as using WD-40 or is there something that works better?
 
Boomtacoma01 said:
Just a quick question since this thread has a bunch of traffic with current buggy owners/builders, While in the process of building what is used to keep the chassis from flash rusting during the fabrication phase? Is it as easy as using WD-40 or is there something that works better?
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The chassis that I built this past spring still hasn't rusted.:flipoff2:

The one that is in my avatar that was built 15yrs ago did eventually rust during the build phase(it took a few years). I just used some scotchbrite, wd40 and elbow grease and it was fine for another year or more until I painted it. Everyone told me the wd40 would cause the paint not to adhere and I'd have to wash it down with solvents of some kind, but I think by the time I sprayed paint all the wd40 stuff had evaporated, as I had no issues other than the 30deg temps in the shop. The paint has been fine for the past 12yrs.
 
Boomtacoma01 said:
Just a quick question since this thread has a bunch of traffic with current buggy owners/builders, While in the process of building what is used to keep the chassis from flash rusting during the fabrication phase? Is it as easy as using WD-40 or is there something that works better?
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Live somewhere else where the air isn’t absolutely saturated with water? :homer:

WD40 wiped on with rags works pretty good.
 
Boomtacoma01 said:
Just a quick question since this thread has a bunch of traffic with current buggy owners/builders, While in the process of building what is used to keep the chassis from flash rusting during the fabrication phase? Is it as easy as using WD-40 or is there something that works better?
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Here in the Phoenix area, as long as you aren't running a swamp cooler in your shop, rust isn't an issue. It's the only reason I don't have one and have 3 big 20' doors instead (for cross flow ventilation).
 
Yea I live in Swampy Houston, a bit different in my neck of the woods. I'm kicking round the idea of building something from the ground up and at the pace I work its going to take a while. If you even look at bare metal it rusts..
 
Boomtacoma01 said:
Yea I live in Swampy Houston, a bit different in my neck of the woods. I'm kicking round the idea of building something from the ground up and at the pace I work its going to take a while. If you even look at bare metal it rusts..
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same here . maybe building into the plan is a sand blast and paint. i can weld a piece of new steel tonight and have rust by morning here because it burns off that light coat of oil.
 
Boomtacoma01 said:
Just a quick question since this thread has a bunch of traffic with current buggy owners/builders, While in the process of building what is used to keep the chassis from flash rusting during the fabrication phase? Is it as easy as using WD-40 or is there something that works better?
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I used anti-spatter spray, wiped with a rag. Unlike WD40 you can weld through it easily.
 
Bebop said:
I used anti-spatter spray, wiped with a rag. Unlike WD40 you can weld through it easily.
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this for sure. Here in the land of 90%+ humidity some sort of coating is a must. Even then I had to scotch brite and wire wheel the shit out of the welds before paint.
 
Boomtacoma01 said:
Yea I live in Swampy Houston, a bit different in my neck of the woods. I'm kicking round the idea of building something from the ground up and at the pace I work its going to take a while. If you even look at bare metal it rusts..
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I've used wd-40 with decent success here in the northeast rust belt too. You need to reapply it every now and then to keep it "oiled". Also dissolves light surface rust over time.

I've also had good success with sharkhide metal protectant. I applied it with a rag and it has kept parts rust free on the shelf for years. I'd say this product would be more long term as you need to lacquer thin it off to weld, paint or coat it. You can recoat with no surface prep. Their site claims 6 years before needing recoat, I have parts with it on for 2 years now no issues. But it's not cheap and it's even more in this current economy.
 
Bebop said:
Fuck JJs.
Get the same 7/8x3/4 heims everywhere. You can even use them for steering too.


Plenty. I'd go smaller.

FYI I run 1.75x.120 DOM upper links on my 4500lbs buggy that I bash into shit like a dumbass. I've ripped a truss off and plowed into a tree at speed with it and they are still straight. On a lightweight car like yours I'd go to 1.5x.120 uppers to save weight.
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Bent a 1.75x.120 upper last season. Freak thing a rock got pulled up between the tire, chassis and link. Replaced it with another and no orher issues. Wheeled a few trips with it bent too.

I have 7/8's uppers and steering, 1.25 lowers. I don't really see a reason for anything bigger on steering or uppers.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I think people forget how tough 7/8 hiems actually are now that 1 1/4" became the standard for lowers. Shit i remember guys using 3/4" for lowers on heavy rigs on 44s :laughing:

However, I think 7/8" will wear quicker than 1 1/4" so unless it's a super light, go 1 1/4"
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When I was running the 4500 car, mud slurry was what wore out joints. I felt like our 7/8x3/4 wore out at similar pace as friends running 1.25 joints. It hurt less in the pocket book to swap out the smaller joints. There was no scientific study or anything, so take it for what it's worth. I get people wanting the biggest, and have 0 intention of talking people into running something I would if they aren't comfortable.

I remember buying the $10 more 3/4x5/8 rod ends for my first 4-link. I never broke a joint, but didn't shoulder the bolts properly and broke a 5/8 grade 8 at the start of the threads.
 
94toytruck said:
Bent a 1.75x.120 upper last season. Freak thing a rock got pulled up between the tire, chassis and link. Replaced it with another and no orher issues. Wheeled a few trips with it bent too.

I have 7/8's uppers and steering, 1.25 lowers. I don't really see a reason for anything bigger on steering or uppers.
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Oh. All my Lowers are bent. I just flip them over from time to time. 😂😂😂
 
white-rhino said:
This is a good discussion topic. I took out a rod end because of this.
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Are we talking about having non-thread 'shank' between the link tabs rather than a bolt that has a shorter shank and then threads through one tab?
 
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