Chief buggy

[pennsylvaniaboy]

Also got the trans cooler mounted. It will get a shield to protect the face from gear.

 

[Wendle]

In true fashion, RH, has done it again. He posted these 3.9 engine mounts. I think I’m gonna redo mine like this. I really can imagine it will impact things that much? But looks sooo much cleaner

Years back we discovered that although the extra space is really nice, when you move the bushing further away from the engine, every now and then the bolts will tear a nice piece of engine block off. Too much leverage on the mounting flange.

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

So true to custom stuff. I am finding that certain things dont fit super well. I bought this filter, as it seemed to get comparable to ones I have used in the past. Bigger filter, more surface area, etc. But it's a snug fit. Debating on trying to send it back and ordering this one.

ZZPerformance 4" Inlet Cone Style Intake High Flow Air Filter 9" Length ZZP​

The one im debating on getting as its smaller and would package better

ZZPerformance Cone Style Air Filter - 4 5/8" base, 4" Inlet - ZZP.​

Would there be a difference in performance haha

 

[Bebop]

Would there be a difference in performance haha

Not in HP, but in filtration sure.
Anyway this is a shit filter so you're not using it for fine dust particles, just to make sure no big chunks of mud will get sucked in.

 

[white-rhino]

Less 90* the better the system will flow, I deleted a couple out of my system and it was night and day difference

True. But clearance at full bump requires it. Luckily I don’t have any heat or speed problems.

 

[Sterlingfire]

So true to custom stuff. I am finding that certain things dont fit super well. I bought this filter, as it seemed to get comparable to ones I have used in the past. Bigger filter, more surface area, etc. But it's a snug fit. Debating on trying to send it back and ordering this one.

ZZPerformance 4" Inlet Cone Style Intake High Flow Air Filter 9" Length ZZP​

The one im debating on getting as its smaller and would package better

ZZPerformance Cone Style Air Filter - 4 5/8" base, 4" Inlet - ZZP.​

Would there be a difference in performance haha

Get a prewrap for it. Not sure if it helps but it will make you feel better!

 

[Sean]

Get a prewrap for it. Not sure if it helps but it will make you feel better!

Yeah, gotta sock on mine and I'm not sure it helps much....but makes me feel better, lol. Mine's under the dash though too....so the air is quite a bit cleaner there than if it was out in the engine bay.

 

[Sterlingfire]

Yeah, gotta sock on mine and I'm not sure it helps much....but makes me feel better, lol. Mine's under the dash though too....so the air is quite a bit cleaner there than if it was out in the engine bay.

I will say they do repel water pretty good. The filter doesn't get wet after a good splashing, so there's that...

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

Yeah, gotta sock on mine and I'm not sure it helps much....but makes me feel better, lol. Mine's under the dash though too....so the air is quite a bit cleaner there than if it was out in the engine bay.

this iil be pulling from the "cabin" as well. It will be in the passenger footwell.

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

Not in HP, but in filtration sure.
Anyway this is a shit filter so you're not using it for fine dust particles, just to make sure no big chunks of mud will get sucked in.

is there a better filter? do tell man

 

[Sluggy]

I've always been a fan of dry filters when there's some form of electric sensor to get gummed up.

 

[Bebop]

is there a better filter? do tell man

Not for $30
I've got a $150 setup on my rig and it sucks.
Put together one that works pretty good for an Ultra4 buddy, was closer to $250.

Ideally you want an airbox with a good filter from an OEM application, it's just hard to package in a buggy

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

well I have been running one of these for years on my other rig. Seems to work?
but it's even bigger yet at the one end.

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

I've always been a fan of dry filters when there's some form of electric sensor to get gummed up.

Unless I am mistaken, there isnt intake sensor on these?

maybe SteerAndStuff can correct me, My engine is a mostly compete yard pick. but not picked by me.

 

[Bebop]

well I have been running one of these for years on my other rig. Seems to work?
but it's even bigger yet at the one end.

that is MUCH better than the shitty china cone filter showed above.

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

that is MUCH better than the shitty china cone filter showed above.

dang that was my gut...

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

So this is the next dilemma. Mounting shocks in the front. With the way the diff sits, the links, shocks and bolts all kinda fight for space. I had originally link mount lined it up with the bolt at axle centerline. But that interferes with the shocks.

If it move the shock up and closer to the axle, even potentially using a sleeve and having the nut or bolt head onn the other side of the tube, I might be able to keep the link bolt at centerline. Or move it below center and have more heim thread showing

 

[Sluggy]

Can you just cut some of the bottom shock mount off to get you clearance? Could also build the shock mounts off the lower link bracket going towards the C

 

[Bebop]

Can you put the shock tab over the link mount ?

 

[SteerAndStuff]

Unless I am mistaken, there isnt intake sensor on these?

maybe SteerAndStuff can correct me, My engine is a mostly compete yard pick. but not picked by me.

There is a MAF sensor between the filter and intake. I use a AFE 21-91090 dry filter that I wash with soap and water periodically. Also have it wrapped in a Filterwears K148K pre-filter

 

[chaplinfj60]

So this is the next dilemma. Mounting shocks in the front. With the way the diff sits, the links, shocks and bolts all kinda fight for space. I had originally link mount lined it up with the bolt at axle centerline. But that interferes with the shocks.

If it move the shock up and closer to the axle, even potentially using a sleeve and having the nut or bolt head onn the other side of the tube, I might be able to keep the link bolt at centerline. Or move it below center and have more heim thread showing

its so hard to see with these tiny pics

 

[JohnnyJ]

So this is the next dilemma. Mounting shocks in the front. With the way the diff sits, the links, shocks and bolts all kinda fight for space. I had originally link mount lined it up with the bolt at axle centerline. But that interferes with the shocks.

If it move the shock up and closer to the axle, even potentially using a sleeve and having the nut or bolt head onn the other side of the tube, I might be able to keep the link bolt at centerline. Or move it below center and have more heim thread showing

I moved my links below center line and had the shocks next to it. I would have stacked, but wanted to minimize how high my shocks would be above my hood. I mocked them up in pvc and then cut material when I had it finalized, but I'm guessing slightly more thread won't hurt you.

Side benefit of having links inboarded more than my first iteration is less tire rub at full lock.

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

ugh, I think i used the wrong photo button.....sorry

 

[posford]

ugh, I think i used the wrong photo button.....sorry

Gotcha bud

 

[RustyC]

You can gain little clearance between the link and shock mount buy using a 12 point bolt. Not a lot but every little bit helps.

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

in looking at it, i moved the link back. geometry trumps shock placement of inches. I am really chasing a few inches that are likely useful here on the east coast.

 

[Blase]

View attachment br1086d800_1800x1800.webp

What about something similar to this?

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

View attachment br1086d800_1800x1800.webp

What about something similar to this?

Yup, I can accomplish the same thing with this idea

we are on the same page.

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

So I decided to go with a boosted master cylinder.

Tuffstuff 2122-nb1

Specs are a 1" bore, 7" dual diaphragm booster.

I modified JohnnyJ i-booster file for the booster bolt pattern. and push rod length. What is stumping me is the travel of the push rod. From rest, to fully depressed is ALOT of travel/rotation of the pedal arm.

Dont mind the ghetto brake arm. Just mocking ideas.

 

[JR4X]

So I decided to go with a boosted master cylinder.

Tuffstuff 2122-nb1

Specs are a 1" bore, 7" dual diaphragm booster.

I modified JohnnyJ i-booster file for the booster bolt pattern. and push rod length. What is stumping me is the travel of the push rod. From rest, to fully depressed is ALOT of travel/rotation of the pedal arm.

When the brakes are bled your travel will be almost none.