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So to add some tech and reference. I took pics of my rear brakes. With this setup it uses the same wilwood calipers and pads in all 4 corners. And same rotor from a 99-04 srw super duty. To use it on the front you have to open the center bore just a tick. It’s tight in the back. I may get some new brackets to give a little more breathing room on the rotor OD to caliper.

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Well that’s on the sterling rear. But with some other brackets similar to busted knuckles setup, you can use the same rotor with the bore opened up, and same caliper.

Make sense?
 
chaplinfj60 said:
you want a tad bit more room here?
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Yeh, maybe. I did these over a year ago. The rotor is hub centric fit on the back. But that is smaller than the front. So you have to open it up for the front.

I’ve been playing with one rotor back and forth for mockup. This will just kiss with it not being centric to the hub. Before I get new brackets cut, I may great another rotor and see. Brackets are stupid cheap so not the end of the world either
 
Im not sure if I missed it or if you haven't gotten to this point but who are you going through for the computer and wiring for that motor? I have the same drivetrain sitting in my garage for my next build.
 
JeepinLee said:
Im not sure if I missed it or if you haven't gotten to this point but who are you going through for the computer and wiring for that motor? I have the same drivetrain sitting in my garage for my next build.
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I have not. All I have done is unhook it. I am planning to use Steve Humphrey. Hoping to send it out this fall.
 
So a little update. I re did the dog box? Instead of having 4 bars, I now have 2. This saves some weight. But allows the side panels to be one piece with a crease instead of 2 parts.

Debating on 2 or 4 disconnects for the down bars. 2 at the dash bars means the whole dash/panels have to come out to pull the case/trans. 4 would allow you to just pull the t case and leave most of the dash intact. Then the complete down bars if pulling a trans.


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Also got my t case and eco box shifters in.

These are old leftover np205 shifters from my squarebody days. I kept the knobs as well. These were on my k30 back when had a cab and single case. So they will live on in this truck

The eco box shifter is a cut down wrench. Sk for bougie points. It was a lonely wrench in box of free tools.

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ridered3 said:
Anything "Current You" does to make "Future You's" jobs simpler should win out right now.
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So with that in mind I had toyed with using a bottom mounted gas pedal, with a remote drive by wire pedal. This lets you mount it to the floor but adds al of complexity.

I messed around with the drive by wire pedal. I cut the mount down and added to it. It’s removable with three bolts. This allows easy access to the motor. I plan to make a clear footwell. Simply pull the panel, pull the pedal and should be able to pull headers, etc

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The pedal also gives plenty of room for header shielding as well. And should clear all the orbital hoses,
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3.9 right? Get a metal throttle pedal from a different 3.9 donor and then you can cut/lengthen pedal to give more throttle pedal travel and better throttle control.
 
SteerAndStuff said:
3.9 right? Get a metal throttle pedal from a different 3.9 donor and then you can cut/lengthen pedal to give more throttle pedal travel and better throttle control.
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Any idea what model has that? I know they came in a Lucerne, g6, equinox, etc.

I’m not sure if I’ll need it or not. This packaged well enough
 
SteerAndStuff said:
3.9 right? Get a metal throttle pedal from a different 3.9 donor and then you can cut/lengthen pedal to give more throttle pedal travel and better throttle control.
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Or you could tune this
 
So a little update. Found a diagram from willwood about motion ratios and the formula to get an acceptable setup. I also looked at some of the other setups out there, esp cutler fab, as in using the same master cyl. So I redid my linkage with some tabs and the pedal and it’s soo much better. Will wait to plumb before I do final weld out.
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i dig it. i like how you gain leg room by off setting it back, hard to get that from any manufactured pedal. like a race car pedal or will wood. :beer::smokin:
 
My next hurdle is steering. I am planning double ended ram. Current plan is a follows-

2.5x10 ram 2.5x10x1.5 DA Double Rod Hydraulic Cylinder
hydraulicsteeringunlimited.com

2.5x10x1.5 DA Double Rod Hydraulic Cylinder

From Complete Hydraulic Steering Kits to Orbital Valve Packages, Fittings, Steering Columns, Cylinder Mounts and more!
hydraulicsteeringunlimited.com hydraulicsteeringunlimited.com
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160ML (9.8 C.I) Hydraulic Steering Valve, Open Center Load Reactive​

160ML (9.8 C.I) Hydraulic Steering Valve, Open Center Load Reactive
1727353960804.png


Goatbuit tie rod kit

4312-JMX Double Ended Ram Tie Rod Kit, FK JMX PREMIUM ROD ENDS​


https://goatbuilt.com/product/4312-jmx-double-ended-ram-tie-rod-kit-fk-jmx-premium-rod-ends/
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And then the last variable is the pump??

thinking about radial dynamics, or PSC. I need a TC pump, 4.5" pulley
 
chaplinfj60 said:
i dig it. i like how you gain leg room by off setting it back, hard to get that from any manufactured pedal. like a race car pedal or will wood. :beer::smokin:
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Thanks. For a small buggy, I find it roomy and comfy. At the same time, i dont have to hang the pedal and master far out and have a long front end.
 
pennsylvaniaboy said:
My next hurdle is steering. I am planning double ended ram. Current plan is a follows-

2.5x10 ram 2.5x10x1.5 DA Double Rod Hydraulic Cylinder
hydraulicsteeringunlimited.com

2.5x10x1.5 DA Double Rod Hydraulic Cylinder

From Complete Hydraulic Steering Kits to Orbital Valve Packages, Fittings, Steering Columns, Cylinder Mounts and more!
hydraulicsteeringunlimited.com hydraulicsteeringunlimited.com
1727353910629.png


160ML (9.8 C.I) Hydraulic Steering Valve, Open Center Load Reactive​

160ML (9.8 C.I) Hydraulic Steering Valve, Open Center Load Reactive
1727353960804.png


Goatbuit tie rod kit

4312-JMX Double Ended Ram Tie Rod Kit, FK JMX PREMIUM ROD ENDS​


https://goatbuilt.com/product/4312-jmx-double-ended-ram-tie-rod-kit-fk-jmx-premium-rod-ends/
1727354047821.png



And then the last variable is the pump??

thinking about radial dynamics, or PSC. I need a TC pump, 4.5" pulley
Click to expand...
so be prepared to go down a deep rabbit hole. one cant just use a pump from radial dynamics... :smokin::smokin::smokin:
 
Bebop said:
You'd be dumb not to give your money to RadialDynamics
His resi is worth it as well.
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This seems debatable from the guys I have talked to that have used it and have used other systems, and find little change. The most important thing I have seen, is running a sealed system to allow pressure.
 
I work with Eric at Radial Dynamics with our bracket kits and sell his pumps. When my customers have steering issues using other off road marketed pumps and steering components, I send them to him. The problems get fixed and they are happy with the results. I would start there.
 
Wisconsinite said:
I work with Eric at Radial Dynamics with our bracket kits and sell his pumps. When my customers have steering issues using other off road marketed pumps and steering components, I send them to him. The problems get fixed and they are happy with the results. I would start there.
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i would also agree with that. one issue i dont have is steering. he helped me solve it for sure. one of the things i love about all his parts. they work together. like the cooler -12 in and out , res has three ports. little things like that that i really liked for sure.
 
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