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i would question the 160 orbital with a 2.5x10" ram. Gonna be a lot of turns lock to lock.
Might want to math that one out on paper.
 
YJ4Rox said:
i would question the 160 orbital with a 2.5x10" ram. Gonna be a lot of turns lock to lock.
Might want to math that one out on paper.
Click to expand...


I based that on this from both bigshocks.com

Orbital Rating
in ml/rev
(c.i./rev.)
2.5 i.d. 8-Inch Ram-------2.5 i.d.10-Inch Ram

Turns lock to lock
8" 10"
125 (7.6) 3.3 -- 4.1
160 (9.8) 2.6 --3.2
200 (12.2) 2.0 -- 2.6


Hydraulic steering unlimited 2.5" rams
8" 10"
125 (7.6) = 3.3 Turns 4.1 Turns
160 (9.8) = 2.6 Turns 3.2 Turns
200 (12.2) = 2.0 Turns 2.6 Turns
 
more turns gets very hands-y on tight trails. my old rig originally had a 125 with a 2.5x8.5, i was always spinning the damn steering wheel.
Its all personal preference. I prefer quick steering with much less turns so i run a 250 with a 2.5x10.
 
YJ4Rox said:
more turns gets very hands-y on tight trails. my old rig originally had a 125 with a 2.5x8.5, i was always spinning the damn steering wheel.
Its all personal preference. I prefer quick steering with much less turns so i run a 250 with a 2.5x10.
Click to expand...
What are you feeding that with?
 
You might consider a 3” cylinder. My nephew finished his buggy last year. He changed out his 2.5” for 3” and it was night and day difference. He said he wished he had gone that route to start with. I’m sure radial dynamics can help you decide. Buggy looks killer for sure. Pedal setup looks like it will help with leg room for sure.
 
rockdog57 said:
You might consider a 3” cylinder. My nephew finished his buggy last year. He changed out his 2.5” for 3” and it was night and day difference. He said he wished he had gone that route to start with. I’m sure radial dynamics can help you decide. Buggy looks killer for sure. Pedal setup looks like it will help with leg room for sure.
Click to expand...

man i am torn on the ram. 2.5 seems like it would be ok, but many say 3" is the cats meow. I need a 10" ram, and they onle make a 9 or 11, and you gotta buy mounts, so its like money money money..

like double for the ram setup.. I might have to explore the 9" length to see how that plays if I come back the arms, or grind the stops for 11" ram and 1550 joints.
 
Bebop said:
Take this, turn the flange down and weld another port and some feet and bam you got a cheap 9.375" stroke 3ish" ram

2.943(75MM)x9.375(238MM)x1.768(45MM) Double Acting Double Rod Hydraulic Cylinder Hyundai 2782462001 | Hyundai | Brands | www.surpluscenter.com

2.943(75MM)x9.375(238MM)x1.768(45MM) Double Acting Double Rod Hydraulic Cylinder Hyundai 2782462001, Hyundai, 2.943 (75MM) x 9.375 (238MM) x 1.768Hyundai,2782462001,
www.surpluscenter.com
Click to expand...
It actually looks like it has a second port?? I wish i had the tooling to turn that down.
 
Firstram said:
Just use a 4” grinder and cutoff discs:homer:
Click to expand...
im curious how hard it would be to do, and not wreck the cylinder?

make a ram mount like this and avoid welding/warping the body?

1727369165688.png



you can also see he is running much shorter high steer arms front to back using 3x9 rams compared to my artec

1727369268737.png
 
pennsylvaniaboy :

You're way overthinking this.
Take the ram apart. Bring it to a machine shop so they lathe the flange out. Gonna cost you $20 or a case of beer.
Weld the new feet on and take it back to the machine shop so they check if it's warped or not (spoiler alert, if you weld it correctly, it won't be).

Or build a clamp like you're showing if you're really paranoid and love spending time on things that aren't needed (no reason).
 
YJ4Rox said:
i can take a video this evening.
Click to expand...
I don't disagree with you saying it has 1.6 turns lock to lock, I'm saying that one of the values you are giving us is wrong because the math doesn't math.
 
pennsylvaniaboy said:
im curious how hard it would be to do, and not wreck the cylinder?

make a ram mount like this and avoid welding/warping the body?

1727369165688.png



you can also see he is running much shorter high steer arms front to back using 3x9 rams compared to my artec

1727369268737.png
Click to expand...
You might be able to incorporate that flange into your mounting bracket. Welding to the flange would be a safe way to avoid warping the cylinder.
 
Firstram said:
You might be able to incorporate that flange into your mounting bracket. Welding to the flange would be a safe way to avoid warping the cylinder.
Click to expand...
true, all this to say, is the time and work around worth it over a nice clean part that works....but cost more haha
 
pennsylvaniaboy said:
man i am torn on the ram. 2.5 seems like it would be ok, but many say 3" is the cats meow. I need a 10" ram, and they onle make a 9 or 11, and you gotta buy mounts, so its like money money money..

like double for the ram setup.. I might have to explore the 9" length to see how that plays if I come back the arms, or grind the stops for 11" ram and 1550 joints.
Click to expand...

You could just slap a 1/2" spacer on either side of the piston on the 11" ram and you'd have a 10" ram.
 
gt1guy said:
You could just slap a 1/2" spacer on either side of the piston on the 11" ram and you'd have a 10" ram.
Click to expand...
this seems pretty reasonable really. just holesaw out some uhmw pucks.

bu I might be able to get 11'' with grinding stops and 1550...
 
chaplinfj60 said:
If your not gonna do the rams bebop suggested. I might do it. Looks like 2 there. May get both.
Click to expand...
I love the idea, but the threads are diff, ports etc. One thing i wanted to do on this buggy was have less oddball stuff.

on my current rig I have a case 580 construction king orbital. It has a fair bit of turns lock to lock, BUT loads of power. Love how it drives. But I have no idea if that is open center or closed. it drives pretty much like it used to with a steering box.
 
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