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“Brophy Jeep” Street Legal Ultra4 4500 class CJ6

mobil1syn said:
3 of the those guys have a shot at the podium every time the line up, the price tag on their motor package is the same be it a BB or not.

a 525 ls3 is plenty of motor for 98% of the field in u4 and for the cost it is hard to beat. now looking at a similar package the only thing that kinda makes sense is the 7.3 from ford, but that comes with a learning curve since they are not common yet and in stock form are under the 500hp mark.

www.gmperformancemotor.com

LS376/525 6.2L LS3 Engine 525 HP

Check out the deal on LS376/525 6.2L LS3 Engine 525 HP at GM Performance Motor
www.gmperformancemotor.com

performanceparts.ford.com

7.3L SUPER DUTY NA CRATE ENGINE

7.3L SUPER DUTY NA CRATE ENGINE|Ford Performance Parts
performanceparts.ford.com performanceparts.ford.com



900hp is expensive no matter which way you slice it.



all the competitive/big money guys are running them

Feature Vehicle Archives - race-deZert.com start poking around here and youll see patton, kroyer, dougan, joe gibss, - you are not getting a motor from those guys unless you know someone. danzio who does horshels motors will take your money as a walk in


i stand by my original comment that it takes cubic dollars to make cubic inches if we are comparing apples to apples. i will say owning something with a big block is on my todo list, but i am not going to lie to myself saying its going to be cheap unless i want it to just make noise and no power.
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I just wanted to add to this. There is a difference between making 900 hp on a dyno and abusing 900hp for 20hours and 1000-1300miles of Offroad racing. That has an inherent cost most people including myself forget about. That’s what sets endurance racing apart.
 
Rockchump said:
You have to! Any silicone hose in a boosted car is a liability. Same with turbo side. You wouldn’t use dental floss to connect 2 pieces of chain! lol.
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No, no no, I understand that part of the equation. I was wondering more about warping/ damaging the TB by welding on it. Now what if the TB was DBW? I guess welding a inch and cooling it off before moving on would reduce the chances of fucking it up?

Reason I was asking, is that I made a air cleaner box that's a pretty tight fit getting it lined up with the TB. Right now I'm using silicone hose to connect the two. It's a bit of work to get it all together. The work comes from the overlap that has to be there when using silicone hose.
I pulled the airbox off for the first time today and found that removing it is a nightmare. As in I got fed up fucking with it and just cut the silicone hose in half................and it came right out.

All this talk of these type fittings got me thinking that if I went to a Wiggins type connection that has no overlap, installing and removing of my airbox would be a breeze.
But as I said, I have a DBW TB. Engine is a LS3. I don't want to fuck it up welding on it.
 
gt1guy said:
No, no no, I understand that part of the equation. I was wondering more about warping/ damaging the TB by welding on it. Now what if the TB was DBW? I guess welding a inch and cooling it off before moving on would reduce the chances of fucking it up?

Reason I was asking, is that I made a air cleaner box that's a pretty tight fit getting it lined up with the TB. Right now I'm using silicone hose to connect the two. It's a bit of work to get it all together. The work comes from the overlap that has to be there when using silicone hose.
I pulled the airbox off for the first time today and found that removing it is a nightmare. As in I got fed up fucking with it and just cut the silicone hose in half................and it came right out.

All this talk of these type fittings got me thinking that if I went to a Wiggins type connection that has no overlap, installing and removing of my airbox would be a breeze.
But as I said, I have a DBW TB. Engine is a LS3. I don't want to fuck it up welding on it.
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Ok there are a few option I found after some digging.
IMG_0501.png
IMG_0503.png

www.lpracing.net

Drive by Wire Throttle Body Adaptor | LPRacing

Available for LS2/LS3/LS7 Use with 4" HD quick release clamps and ferrules Positive sealing for boosted applications Great alternative for all intake systems, boosted or N/A CNC machined 6061-T6 Aluminum Mounting hardware and O-rings included Made proudly in the U.S.A Comes standard black...
www.lpracing.net www.lpracing.net

www.buckperformance.com

Throttle Body Adapter – GM/LS to 4″ Plazmaclamp

www.buckperformance.com
 
gt1guy said:
No, no no, I understand that part of the equation. I was wondering more about warping/ damaging the TB by welding on it. Now what if the TB was DBW? I guess welding a inch and cooling it off before moving on would reduce the chances of fucking it up?

Reason I was asking, is that I made a air cleaner box that's a pretty tight fit getting it lined up with the TB. Right now I'm using silicone hose to connect the two. It's a bit of work to get it all together. The work comes from the overlap that has to be there when using silicone hose.
I pulled the airbox off for the first time today and found that removing it is a nightmare. As in I got fed up fucking with it and just cut the silicone hose in half................and it came right out.

All this talk of these type fittings got me thinking that if I went to a Wiggins type connection that has no overlap, installing and removing of my airbox would be a breeze.
But as I said, I have a DBW TB. Engine is a LS3. I don't want to fuck it up welding on it.
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I did some quick reading and I saw partially submerged the TB so that seals and blade are under water. I figured just carefully disassemble it and don’t pour too much eat in it. But I have never don’t it. I’m sure it’s possible without messing the TB up.
 
I'll have to dig out the factory TB and have a look at it. Not sure I understand how the bolt on adapters bolt on. Wet rag full of ice would probably do the trick for welding.
The TB on the LS is a Kateck ported one so I really don't want to destroy it.

Thanks for the info:beer:
 
Rockchump said:
Ok there are a few option I found after some digging.

Capture.JPG
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Printed out that picture and had a look on the jeep. Wouldn't be able to use that. Too long. Body of the air box starts about 3/8" past the gearbox for the DBW stuff. That sure would have been a easy fix.

So I ordered one of these. Gonna have to weld it on.

s-l1600.jpg



And ordered one of these too.

Capture.JPG



I also have a XRP Wiggins style clam shell sitting in my cart at ANPlumbing. But, damn those things are spendy. Clam shell, 2 weld ferrules and a pair of spare o-rings comes to $542.89. I can buy a lot of silicone hose to cut up for that price.:flipoff2:

I'll shut up now.
 
gt1guy said:
Printed out that picture and had a look on the jeep. Wouldn't be able to use that. Too long. Body of the air box starts about 3/8" past the gearbox for the DBW stuff. That sure would have been a easy fix.

So I ordered one of these. Gonna have to weld it on.

s-l1600.jpg



And ordered one of these too.

Capture.JPG



I also have a XRP Wiggins style clam shell sitting in my cart at ANPlumbing. But, damn those things are spendy. Clam shell, 2 weld ferrules and a pair of spare o-rings comes to $542.89. I can buy a lot of silicone hose to cut up for that price.:flipoff2:

I'll shut up now.
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All good. I’m glad you guys are adding to this and it’s not just me talking into the either!! I miss the days with a ton of engagement and shit talking!! lol
 
Rockchump said:
All good. I’m glad you guys are adding to this and it’s not just me talking into the either!! I miss the days with a ton of engagement and shit talking!! lol
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I don't have anything to add, But Ive been following along too, so you aren't just talking to yourself! This and the Big Booty Judy CJ5 are nice to follow along with as I'm cobbling my Cj5 together.
 
1Sinner said:
Why are you bringing up the same damn ideas that keep rolling through my head. You're not helping the madness.
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I fully support you going TTB for your Jeep and intended use!! I’m confident you can pull it off too. For me I have to stay SA. But after I get the racing bug out of my system it’s something I’ve really thought about!! Dirty hooker wheel travel. You can cycle 17”-19” pretty clean if you get you geometry correct. :grinpimp:
 
Rockchump said:
I fully support you going TTB for your Jeep and intended use!! I’m confident you can pull it off too. For me I have to stay SA. But after I get the racing bug out of my system it’s something I’ve really thought about!! Dirty hooker wheel travel. You can cycle 17”-19” pretty clean if you get you geometry correct. :grinpimp:
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I cycled it out yesterday for driveshaft lengths. I have 14 inches of usable travel in the front and 19" usable in the rear. With ttb 19 and 19 sounds pretty awesome. Definitely not digging into that now. Wife would kill me this close to paint. But it's definitely been on my radar.
 
1Sinner said:
I cycled it out yesterday for driveshaft lengths. I have 14 inches of usable travel in the front and 19" usable in the rear. With ttb 19 and 19 sounds pretty awesome. Definitely not digging into that now. Wife would kill me this close to paint. But it's definitely been on my radar.
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Man you live in the desert. Scotchbrite and WD40! Just paint the tin work! lol.
 
I was cruising IG and cam across this Evan Weller Racing IGN coil relocation bracket that bolts to the LS3 intake. I wanted to build a bracket to support the air cleaner. This kills 2 birds with one stone. It will mount the coils high and out of heat and water. The air cleaner bracket will just mount off this.
IMG_0419.jpeg
 
I finally decided on the air cleaner. I ended up building through FTA since they were a dealer. I figured if it was good enough for a Herbst 6100 Spec trophy truck it would be fine for me. lol.
It’s a washable dry filter. It was not cheap but compared to inferior ones like K&N that are shit at filtration it’s not much more expensive.
IMG_0381.png
 
Rockchump said:
I was cruising IG and cam across this Evan Weller Racing IGN coil relocation bracket that bolts to the LS3 intake. I wanted to build a bracket to support the air cleaner. This kills 2 birds with one stone. It will mount the coils high and out of heat and water. The air cleaner bracket will just mount off this.
IMG_0419.jpeg
Click to expand...
When you first posted some sneak pics I tried finding that bracket. I love it for the coil mounts. I love it more for the fuel pressure regulator mounting. How'd you order it though? Or are you making one?
 
Rockchump said:
I was cruising IG and cam across this Evan Weller Racing IGN coil relocation bracket that bolts to the LS3 intake. I wanted to build a bracket to support the air cleaner. This kills 2 birds with one stone. It will mount the coils high and out of heat and water. The air cleaner bracket will just mount off this.
IMG_0419.jpeg
Click to expand...
They look nice and fancy, but what is the advantage compared to the regular mounting position on the valve covers?
 
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