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“Brophy Jeep” Street Legal Ultra4 4500 class CJ6

Just dropped the car off at FTA inc to update the prograding and tune the new 416” LS3.

Headed to San Diego to grab my break and bead roller then headed to work on the jeep.
 

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I know we hate drifting here:flipoff2:but I have a question I've always wanted to ask someone who does it.

How do you set up the suspension for drifting?

I would assume you'd want it stiff a fuck in roll, be it big bars or lots of spring rate.


I had to stick a finger in my butt to feel gay enough to type that.:flipoff2:
 
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I know we hate drifting here:flipoff2:but I have a question I've always wanted to ask someone who does it.

How do you set up the suspension for drifting?

I would assume you'd want it stiff a fuck in roll, be it big bars or lots of spring rate.


I had to stick a finder in my butt to feel gay enough to type that.:flipoff2:
It depends on a few things. It’s somewhat contradictory to what you think. There are 2 schools here. High HP and low HP and cars are setup differently. You are correct that low hp cars are usually setup very stiff with big sway bars as well as weird alignments to keep the car loose.
High hp cars can be setup softer with less roll bar which helps with side bite and are set up for a ton of forward bite so that you can make instant corrections.

The majority of what you see in everyday drift cars is based on how it looks not how it works. Slammed cars with stiff springs and cambered out alignments do t actually drift good. But people struggle and can overcome it to a degree.

A properly setup car with 300-400whp is nearly effortless to drift well. My buddy had 40whp more than me similar car but I’m setup a better alignment and more grip and my car is much faster than his.

In drifting you steer with the throttle and just use the wheel and hand brake for corrections and transitioning.
 
I know we hate drifting here:flipoff2:but I have a question I've always wanted to ask someone who does it.

How do you set up the suspension for drifting?

I would assume you'd want it stiff a fuck in roll, be it big bars or lots of spring rate.


I had to stick a finder in my butt to feel gay enough to type that.:flipoff2:
What a description :lmao::lmao:

 
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Just dropped the car off at FTA inc to update the prograding and tune the new 416” LS3.

Headed to San Diego to grab my break and bead roller then headed to work on the jeep.
How long did FTA take to wire the car? I'm curious.
 
How long did FTA take to wire the car? I'm curious.
Hard to say cause it was dropped off to Josh when he was still in Idaho to just do as filler work shortly after he took a I’ll time position at CBM in. SoCal. It sat for a year and a half in Idaho while he got shit situated from the move and what not. But once the car was brought down he knowcked it out pretty quick in his garage. He just made the harnesses after hours at the shop. I drove down we finished a few bits on my end and I hauled it to CBM where he tuned it and I took it home.
It was full standalone chassis harness with dual ECU maste PMU16 and engine harness with Emtron KV8 and AIM MX Strada dash.
 
How long did FTA take to wire the car? I'm curious.
There is a pretty decent wait time right now but a client canceled last minute so this week opened up and I siezed the chance to get in. He is do a full reprogram of all the PMU’s extending 4 plugs cause I changed location of some sensors added a plug for oil cooler fan. Installed plugs on new LEd headlights. I’m waiting on new 72lb injectors which should be here tomorrow and then Saturday morning will will tune for 91 octane first then add E85 and tune that map. The Emtron will blend and adjust based of data from the ethanol content sensor in rhe fuel system in real time.
This opens up a lot o more potential down the line. I can add some Frankenstein M311 heads and big boy 102 intake and break into the 600whp territory. Right now with stock LS3 heads and intake most I can do is 560Whp. I’m hoping for 550whp
 
My buddy said that he never realized his low the drive train was until my steering column went over the top of my motor!! lol what’s crazy is that the fron seat mounts are on top of the trans almost touching. We did raise the seats 2” to help with leg room.
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So one super cool thing that just happened to work out was I needed an idler pulley on the lower driver side of the block. I just bought a cheap LS1 alternator bracket and figured just use it as an idler. We that’s when I thought the steering shaft was going under the head through that area.
Now that it’s over the motor I can run the alternator in the factory location!
Billy made here!!! But wait there’s more!!
The guys already built the radiator mount to fit the bomber fab alternator relocation bracket so I’m going to run dual alternators! One will direct feed each of the dual batteries. I have batt 1 or batt 2 or batt 1+2 switch that will be located in the cab. The fridge will be wired directly to batt #2 as it will be the party battery. Stereo/race radio and gps so that I can run them with the rest of the car off. This allows me to have battery #1 for starting duties incase I run batt 2 down too far. And for winching i can run both batteries
 

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I’m really happy with the seating position in the car. Here you can see how I fit in the car. I’m 5’9” and a fat ass. (I am going to loose 50lbs. i quit smoking almost 2 years ago and gained that weight.)

Here you see a sneak peek of the dash!!
 

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The red lines will be 1.5” from door bar to door bar and probably 1” from that tube down to seat tube. The shifter and both 5” and 9” GPS’s will mount off tabs off the tube work and not the dash. This makes it so the dash won’t fall apart from the bouncing weight of the GPS or force of shifting. It gives us more mounting options too. Lighter stuf like digital dash, iPad, intercoms and key pad will just be mounted to the dash.
As we were trimming I definitely got worried I just wasted a bunch of money but after we got it where it needed to be and stood back I was really happy!!
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