Blue Jeep build

[gt1guy]

Specialty fitting but outside my wheelhouse. But there are a ton of euro and Japanese spec fittings out there. There should be a conversion catalog from aeroquip or Parker that would have it.

Or, just make the fitting you need. Or take it to a machine shop and have them make it out of tool steel.

I'm going to give Howe a call and see if I can just buy a fitting for -12 from them. That's who the pump came from.

Every other place I found that sells those pumps and gives choices for the feed size, none of them list the fittings by themselves. I found that really strange.


On hold with Howe right now.....................cool elevator music

Yep, it's a custom fitting that they make in house. They don't even stock them, just make them as needed. So I have them making me one in -12. $55 shipped, should be in the mail tomorrow.

Annnnd, I don't have the XRP -12 dies. I only bought -6, -8, -10, -20. Was going to wait until the Jeep was done and work started in my Camaros to pick up -12 and -16 dies, since those really get used when running dry sumps.

So I'll just buy a pre made hose from somewhere. It only ~12" with straight fittings. Shouldn't be too much $$$

 

[gt1guy]

Got a -12 hose ordered. $100 shipped. XRP XS steel braid hose and 2 straight crimped fittings.

Oddly enough, the place I've been buying my hoses and fittings was the cheapest for a custom hose. ANplumbing.com


I'm slowly starting to figure it out. When it's time for the wiring, I'm going to post what I PLAN TO DO, before I do it. Maybe then I can get it right the first time.

I truly appreciate all the help.

 

[1Sinner]

Cancel that order! Just use barbs and pushlok for suctions..... up to 200psi no clamps needed.

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

Cancel that order! Just use barbs and pushlok for suctions..... up to 200psi no clamps needed.

That's not expensive enough.

 

[WaterH]

Cancel that order! Just use barbs and pushlok for suctions..... up to 200psi no clamps needed.

This what I used for the return line. First I had a regular hydro hose made, but it was so stiff that it cracked my pump housing twice. Maybe I didn’t have it the right length, but when your at that dash 12 size and your trying to keep it short from the resivour to the housing, it sucks. No problems since I went to the push loc.

 

[gt1guy]

Well shit. Too late to change now. Already have a tracking number and UPS says it has the package.
I did get the new -10 return hose ran and ends crimped.

So while waiting on fittings, I figured it was a good time to have a look at where the AC lines will need to run.

Have a 4 port bulkhead plate on the firewall.

Below the washer tank.

Above the remote oil filter. See it way back there?

And pretty much behind the trans cooler thermostat thing.

Sooooo, there's three -10's and a -6 going in there. Test fit the fittings without the hoses on them and it'll work. Damn hoses will be going in all different directions, but it'll work.

There will be a total of 12 hoses making connections in that area. And the big round hole in the firewall is where the chassis wiring for the front will come out of too.

 

[gt1guy]

That's not expensive enough.

That hurt. Say you're sorry.

I'm not trying to go out of my way to spend more money. It just kinda happens. Though I can say I've got to the point in wanting to get it finished, that I don't even blink anymore when I need something.

Take the the $55 fitting I'm getting from Howe for example. If they had said it would take a 3-4 weeks to get it and I could have found one somewhere else for $110 and have it in 3-4 days...........I'd have bought it. I guess it's only stupid if you care.

There are some things I wanted to add to the Jeep that I've just blown off for now, because they have nothing to do with getting it finished and running.


Wait a minute.............you have a million dollar golf cart..............shut up.

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

All the AN fittings and high end braided hose is nice and looks awesome but in my eyes limits your options if you spring a leak on a road trip. You are either driving around with a trailer full of spare hose, fittings, a compressor and that crimper or you end the trip right there and get it towed home to repair the leak. That 80% street driving you want to do with it would have had me using more easily sourced wear items like that.

 

[Bebop]

I'm slowly starting to figure it out. When it's time for the wiring, I'm going to post what I PLAN TO DO, before I do it. Maybe then I can get it right the first time.

I truly appreciate all the help.

I might even be able to help with the wiring as well.
A good plan will save you time and money in the long run, this is a proven and tested fact.

All the AN fittings and high end braided hose is nice and looks awesome but in my eyes limits your options if you spring a leak on a road trip. You are either driving around with a trailer full of spare hose, fittings, a compressor and that crimper or you end the trip right there and get it towed home to repair the leak. That 80% street driving you want to do with it would have had me using more easily sourced wear items like that.

On the flip side, if it's done right in the first place, he shouldn't have to worry about issues too much.
I know, I know, theory and reality are 2 different things, but one can hope

 

[1Sinner]

I'm a big fan of crimped hydraulic hose. That stuff is ridiculously tough. That being said, it's subject to wear like anything else and if it rubs on something, it'll wear a hole in it. I'm just glad this thing is getting closer.

 

[Wisconsinite]

I might even be able to help with the wiring as well.

AFTER you wire the multicolor rainbow jeep......

 

[Bebop]

AFTER you wire the multicolor rainbow jeep......

I meant help with the plan.
Calm down honey, I ain't cheating on you

 

[1Sinner]

You two stop. It hurts when dad and dad fight.

 

[Wisconsinite]

You two stop. It hurts when dad and dad fight.

God I love this place.

 

[gt1guy]

All the AN fittings and high end braided hose is nice and looks awesome but in my eyes limits your options if you spring a leak on a road trip. You are either driving around with a trailer full of spare hose, fittings, a compressor and that crimper or you end the trip right there and get it towed home to repair the leak. That 80% street driving you want to do with it would have had me using more easily sourced wear items like that.

You make a good point. My thinking was that crimped AN hoses would be the best type of connection to reduce the chance of springing leaks. But you're right in that fixing a leak becomes way more difficult.

Maybe carrying a few reusable fittings would be easy way to make a repair as opposed to having complete hoses.

I might even be able to help with the wiring as well.
A good plan will save you time and money in the long run, this is a proven and tested fact.


On the flip side, if it's done right in the first place, he shouldn't have to worry about issues too much.
I know, I know, theory and reality are 2 different things, but one can hope

I will accept any help I can get. I followed your advice on doing the plumbing first and can now see the wisdom to that. It will be a bit before I can get my little brain pointed towards wiring.

I'm a big fan of crimped hydraulic hose. That stuff is ridiculously tough. That being said, it's subject to wear like anything else and if it rubs on something, it'll wear a hole in it. I'm just glad this thing is getting closer.

Made a list of the crimp fittings I need to replace all the field serviceable on the pressure lines. They're all swivels so I don't have to dick with clocking.

AFTER you wire the multicolor rainbow jeep......

Might want to dust that sucker off so Bebop doesn't look like a chimney sweep climbing around in it.

 

[gt1guy]

Just had the -10 fittings for the cooler, reservoir and orbital show up.

 

[mobil1syn]

whats the deal with the extra fitting on the oil filter housing?

 

[gt1guy]

whats the deal with the extra fitting on the oil filter housing?

It's a sensor port. I want to put a temp sensor there. It's on the oil coming out of the engine side. There's a sensor port on the remote oil filter adapter on the block, but it's on the return (cold , after the cooler) side.

My understanding on the LS3 is that the oil temp sender is in the oil pan with the level sensor. I'm not running the stock cast pan. Planing to feed the temp signal to the dash.

Added bonus is it also helps running the hoses having the end fitting staggered.

 

[gt1guy]

Getting a bit crowded with hoses. The to do list is getting smaller though.

Tightest spot I have for a hose (fitting actually) to the headers. All the hoses (including the fittings) are getting fire sleeve. Headers are getting ceramic coating.
In this one spot, I think adding some of that reflective shit over the fire sleeve might be in order.

Inner fenders still fit and should let a lot of the header heat out.

 

[1Sinner]

Might I suggest silicone coated fire sleeve. It's rated higher than standard sleeve, is also self extinguishing. It's good stuff. It's used on rocket systems at work for critical electronics (shhh. Trade secret) I'd have bought this if I didn't already have a giant roll of regular fire sleeve. Doesn't have to be this brand, but it's blue and matches your jeep.

 

[gt1guy]

Might I suggest silicone coated fire sleeve. It's rated higher than standard sleeve, is also self extinguishing. It's good stuff. It's used on rocket systems at work for critical electronics (shhh. Trade secret) I'd have bought this if I didn't already have a giant roll of regular fire sleeve. Doesn't have to be this brand, but it's blue and matches your jeep.

The blue would look good.

I have XRP's version of that. Had to look it up to make sure I was getting the name correct.........and I wasn't. It's called Fyre Jacket.

Shouldn't take it very long to end up the color of dirt.

 

[gt1guy]

Lots of little things showed up today.

-12 steering fitting and new hose.

Had to check out the crimps real good. Wanted to see how they looked when somebody who knew what they were doing did them.

Even though the new fitting is a bit taller, hose still fit fine.

Also got these little fellas I didn't know existed until a few days ago. Adapters for using AN fittings on AC o-ring connections. Using these for the heater hoses

 

[gt1guy]

The tank I'm using as a over flow/fill needed to be cut up even more than it already has.

Was set up for a radiator cap..............that had to go so I can put a normal fill cap on it.

Going to offset the new cap to better avoid one of the hoses running to the surge tank. Also adding a -4 fitting for a vent.

Also need to add another -4 fitting to the bottom of the tank to feed the siphon line running back to the surge tank.

These Pro Werks fittings are pretty slick. Nice radius on the back side.

Had noticed that one of the oil cooler fittings would be rubbing on the inner fender, so cut out a hole and made a cover piece to clear the fitting. Also cut out some pieces to make a cover for the oil filter.

Still have to make a bottom piece.

Naturally, the argon bottle is empty for the tig.

 

[1Sinner]

Stealing those adapter fittings! You can still get gas. It's Saturday tomorrow.

 

[gt1guy]

Stealing those adapter fittings! You can still get gas. It's Saturday tomorrow.

Awesome. I had no idea they existed. Plus they're only $3 or so.

I have to drop off my bottle and pick it up the next day, at least 99% of the time. Just the way it's always worked out. Hell, they're not even open on Saturday come to think of it.

 

[gt1guy]

So I've ended up with a situation that I think is funny, stupid and retarded all at the same time. I've spent a lot time and money on AN connections for all my plumbing. Better hoses, better connections, better what have you.
Then we get to the heater hoses............all AN fittings with XRP hoses from the water pump to the firewall. That's all good.

Then I dig out the actual AC unit (not the mock up I've be using) and I see this.....

And the servo that shuts off the hot water from running through the unit.

While I fully realize this isn't the end of the world and is how probably every system is. It's not lost on me that for all the fancy plumbing I've been doing, in the end, the hoses that will be transporting scalding hot water INSIDE the tub, will be Autozone rubber hose and hose clamps.

The only satisfaction I have is in knowing any scalding hot water will get sprayed on the passenger and not me. I will never speak of this again for that reason.

 

[gt1guy]

Was digging through boxes of NASCAR take offs today, found something neat I had forgot about.

Ever wanted to know how race engines can run water temps over 270*+ without bad things happening? Takes a special radiator built for high pressures...

...and one of these......called an air spring. Once the cooling system is full, this air spring is filled 1/2 way with water and then charged with ~35psi of air. As the engine heats up, water expands, pressure increases, boiling point of water increases, right foot stays to the floor.

The two QD's you see are for circulating warm water through the engine to pre heat it before the race. Same as they do with the oil. One of the QD's is also how they charge the air spring. This particular one was made by C&R.

Anyone need a -32 BMRS lower radiator hose from a Hendricks R07 engine? It looks brand new, I'm sure it was timed out.

 

[1Sinner]

That pressure bottle looks surprisingly familiar........ oh, and enjoy your barb fittings