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Blue Jeep build

I think I have a plan.

Laying out the wiring to get an idea of what goes where. Going to keep it loose with maybe a few zipties here and there. Just to get an idea of where the wire bundles need to run and the size of them.

Then I'm going to do the hard lines. The thinking is that I can work the wiring around the hard lines and keep the hard lines straight shots. Rear brake line runs through the inside of the tub from the firewall to above the rear upper link and under the DVR seat. It also has the E-brake ball valve and the porp valve in it.
Also, have the hard lines for the fire system. Shit, forgot about that.:homer:
Hard line for the AccuSump has been done for a while. It's hard line until it leaves the tub.
Hard lines are done for the fuel system. At least to where they leave the tub.

Already found that I need to split open the engine harness and move where the two power wires break out that go to the battery. It's set up for the battery to be in the engine compartment and not in the rear of the Jeep. They will need to be extended too.
Seems like I'll need extensions for the O2 sensors due to the headers.

Also ordered a bunch of Deutsch DT connector kits so I can break up the the harnesses to allow me to pull the body with only undoing a few connections and not pulling out miles of wires and undoing adel clamps every 6".
 
If you don't have a set of tubing benders, look at the offering from inline tube. That is where I sourced my tools, they are great quality, and pretty cheap. They also sell pre-straightened sections of tubing.

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Most SS tubing has a small weld seam, and I imagine that can lead to leaks. I bought a tool from koul tools that is a flare lapper. It registers on the tubing, and has a 45° and 37° cone with a diamond abrasive embedded. Works really well.

koultools.com

Flare Lapping Tool | Brake & Fuel Lines | Koul Tools

Now you can lap-in your flared hard lines to ensure optimum sealing with brake line fittings. The Surseat will not only perfect your newly-flared tubing, it can also repair the seal on an existing one.
koultools.com koultools.com
 
Bebop said:
Plumb everything then do the wiring.

I suggest drawing a diagram instead of running the wires first.
Click to expand...

That does sound smarter. Thank you Sir, I'll do that.

Ya, there certainly are going to be lots of hoses running around the engine compartment.
 
Wisconsinite said:
If you don't have a set of tubing benders, look at the offering from inline tube. That is where I sourced my tools, they are great quality, and pretty cheap. They also sell pre-straightened sections of tubing.

1725394930751.png



Most SS tubing has a small weld seam, and I imagine that can lead to leaks. I bought a tool from koul tools that is a flare lapper. It registers on the tubing, and has a 45° and 37° cone with a diamond abrasive embedded. Works really well.

koultools.com

Flare Lapping Tool | Brake & Fuel Lines | Koul Tools

Now you can lap-in your flared hard lines to ensure optimum sealing with brake line fittings. The Surseat will not only perfect your newly-flared tubing, it can also repair the seal on an existing one.
koultools.com koultools.com
Click to expand...

Ordered that lapping tool. That's pretty slick.

The hard line runs I still need to make are...

Fire system...that's all aluminum.

Brake lines.....that's all copper nickel.

Most likely the fuel line that runs down the length of the frame. I have enough XRP Pro whatever the name is hose to do the entire run with that, but I'm thinking hard line would reduce the chance of pulsing.

Everything else XRP hose and AN crimp fittings.
 
gt1guy said:
Ordered that lapping tool. That's pretty slick.

The hard line runs I still need to make are...

Fire system...that's all aluminum.

Brake lines.....that's all copper nickel.

Most likely the fuel line that runs down the length of the frame. I have enough XRP Pro whatever the name is hose to do the entire run with that, but I'm thinking hard line would reduce the chance of pulsing.

Everything else XRP hose and AN crimp fittings.
Click to expand...
Are you running -6 or -8 for the fuel?
 
Wisconsinite said:
I used the eastwood flaring tool, and it only goes up to -6.
Click to expand...

I just have the Ridged 37* flairing tool. Does a great job on stainless.

377 Flaring Tool_72dpi.jpg


I get my tube from AN Plumbing, it's annealed 304 seamless.


Bebop said:
AN-6 is fine for 6/700hp, you'll be alright.
Click to expand...
Hopefully that's one less issue I have to deal with.
 
Forgot to post these pictures a while back. Something that I found interesting.

It's about caster and it's jacking effects. Most know that caster becomes camber when you turn the wheels. I happened to have the Jeep sitting on all 4 bump stops AND had the wheels turned the other day and noticed a good visual that showed the jacking effect in action.....................so I took pics.

Here's how the piece of shit was sitting.

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This is the results of the jacking effect on both sides.

Drivers side is still sitting on the bump, but because the caster has become positive camber on that side it has pushed up that end of the axle. Or to put it another way, it's trying to push the contact patch down.

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Now look at the passenger side. Due to the caster turning into negative camber, it would want to lower that side of the axle. There is much less movement on the Pass side than the DVR just due to geometry.
The jacking effect from the driver side has lifted the passenger side of the chassis off the bump pad by a little over an inch.

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Remember, there's no shocks or springs in the mix.........no suspension at all.


I just found that interesting. If there was a suspension and springs in the mix, there would have been body roll to the passenger side equal to the gap on the pass side bump. More or less.
 
gt1guy said:
I think I have a plan.
Click to expand...

Yaaaa, that didn't play out as I hoped it would.:lmao:

No matter how good your plan is, once you start, you see places you can improve. That's good and bad. Good because the finished product will be better, bad because I'm ordering different fittings almost every day. I find myself saying what the fuck about 10 times a day. I just have to laugh and keep on ordering.

Brakes and ARB plumbing is almost done.

ARB is all -4 braided. Even have a moisture separator in the mix before the air gets to the air switches. Happy about that. I don't want to be sending water to the lockers.

Rear brakes run through the tub until they exit by the r. upper link. That's all nicop 1/4" tube. I'm glad it bends easy, cause I suck at bending.........even with the right tools. :flipoff2: Lots of bends to run through the porp valve and the E brake valve.
-4an down the links and back to nicop across the axles.

None of the -4an lines are crimped, they are serviceable fittings for brakes. I have stabbed myself so many times peeling back the ss braid that it doesn't even bleed anymore when I get stabbed. Probably cause it's the same spot I've been stabbed 20 times before.


You know, I thought this was going to be fun. It kinda feels like work.
 
I think I'm done stabbing myself with little braided wires for a while at least.............I hope.

My tube bending has vastly improved..................now that it's done. Actually ended up doing the front and rear axle hard lines twice because I didn't like the way I did both the first time.

This was as tight as I could get the lines coming off the master. These are not hard line, their PTFE braided. I wish I could have found master cylinder fittings that were 90* -4an. Should still be fine when the headers are there. I am glad I got the master with the ports on the inboard side, the tire would most differently rip those lines off if they were on the other side with the old master.

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Porp valve sits under the seat. Just seemed like a good out of the way spot and the rear brake line had to run that way anyway.

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Which leads to the parking brake ball valve. 5000psi Swageloc with the correct seals that wont get killed by brake fluid. Stupid thing was $$$. This valve I can reach from the seat.

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Brake and air line drop out of the tub just forward of the UCA mount. They're also under the seat.

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And for the air compressor side, I naturally had to start out by swapping out one of the pumps on a never used compressor.:shaking:

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I had noticed this a while back, still long after any warranty would have expired. Came out of the box that way.

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Got a manifold plumbed in with a water separator feeding the air lockers. Air comes in the bottom of the manifold and out the top to the separator. There's a drain on the very bottom of the manifold.

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All I have left is everything else:flipoff2::flipoff2:
 
Cherry has been popped :flipoff2:

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I can tell you right now, this foot pump is going to get old fast.

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Oh ya, ball valve #

desertPOS said:
Got a part # for the Swagelock by any chance?
Click to expand...


Receipt wasn't in the pile in the shop. So I pulled the valve out.

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Looks clear in the picture. If not, this is what it says....

IMG20241004195855.jpg


Looks like it's 3000psi rated and not 5k like I mentioned before.
 
Sometimes things work out great, sometimes things workout as they should , sometimes things don't work out so good and sometimes you end up completely coated in oil.:flipoff2:

Was having an issue with the hose crimper today and I was thinking I had air trapped in it. I couldn't get it to complete the crimp. It would just start to compress the crimp collar and that was it. The fitting would still just pull out by hand. The foot pump never built up any resistance either.

So, I called my buddy. Hydraulics are part of his job. We've worked together on and off for 20 years.

He starts making sure there's no air in the system. Pump good, hose good. We lay the crimper on it's side and he starts to crack the plugged port at the top of the ram...................gets a little air...cracks it a bit more and another little burp of air..............cracks it a little more....... and the plug blows out in his hand and coats EVERYTHING in a 10' circle in oil.

We just looked at each other with oil pouring off our faces.

He says: Sure wasn't expecting that.
Me: Where the fuck did all that oil come from?
Him: It's in my mouth
Me: Look how far it went
Him: That's impressive
Me: Did all the air get out?
Him: It's in my mouth

Hook it all back together and there's no change. Can't get it to finish the crimp.

So I roll over the big tube bender and hook up the elect/hyd pump to the crimper. Hit the button and it stops at the same spot, leaving a unfinished crimp. But at least with the big bender I know what the pump sounds like when the ram hits full stroke and that's exactly the sound the pump was making.

Take everything out of the crimper and stroke out the piston. It can actually stroke quite a bit farther than it stopping at.

Then I start looking at the tapered steel doughnut and the crimper jaws. It seems that the taper inside the doughnut doesn't match the taper on the outside of the crimper jaws. So I believe it's only pushing the bottom of the jaws closed and allowing the top of the jaws to remain open a bit.

I need to call XRP tomorrow.

I bought the crimper from Discount Hydraulic, but it's the same D100 sold by XRP, BMRS, Earls, pretty much anyone who sells a crimper for automotive type use.

The crimper dies I have are XRP, the crimp collars I have are XRP and the fittings are also XRP, so they should all work together.

It's just the tapered doughnut that came with the crimper that I'm not sure about.


It's always something isn't it.
 
1Sinner said:
Crimpers are always finicky. Hopefully you're running the right series of fittings or dies.
Click to expand...

Ya, all that is good. The die, the fittings and the crimp collars are all for HS79 w/ Hypalon hose. And that's the hose I'm using. This is for the -20 upper rad hose.

I did go out and check the other hose I had already crimped. It was a -10 and the calipers showed it to have a 3 thou taper to the crimp collar.

So I'm really thinking there's a issue with the tapered doughnut. It looks like only the bottom corner ID edge of the doughnut is touching the die fingers.
 
Got all the new parts for the crimper from XRP, They actually come from Custom Crimp, I guess that's who makes them. Works great with the right pieces.:flipoff2: Did find that the foot pump was shit. It was also a pain in the ass to use. Tried hooking the pump from my JD2 model 4 bender to the crimper. Worked, but the bender pump only puts out 4k psi, so the crimps weren't getting squished enough. yhey were all over sized. So ended up getting a HF air/hyd pump that goes to 10k psi. Not I'm getting perfect crimps on one shot.

Much simpler setup, easy to use, and have both hands free to hold things where they need to be.

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So far I have the accusump to engine take off plumbed -10An. Hard line in tub and XRP from tub to engine.

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Still need to add the pressure gauge

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F&R brake line are done. Stainless braid from master to firewall, copper/ nickle inside tub, stainless braid under tub and down link in the rear. All stainless braid in the front. Still have to connect where it goes from stainless braid down the links to the hard line "tee" on the axles F&R. -4AN

Air lines are done, all stainless braid for the compressor, distribution block, water separator, air toggles on dash and down the links. Still need to make the connections from the air lines to the copper tubes coming out to the axles for the lockers. -4AN

Oil lines are done from the filter bypass on the engine, filter/thermostat block and cooler. -10An, Sill have 2 fitting to crimp....waiting on the fittings.

Steering is done from the Pump, hydro boost, orbital valve, cooler and reservoir. All HP -6, -8,-10AN. Still have to make up the hoses at the ram.

One hose in plumbed for the surge tank. Still need to do the steam line from the engine to the surge tank and the other steam line from the radiator to the surge tank. Also need to weld a new cap on the overflow/ fill tank and run a line from the surge tank pressure cap vent to the bottom of the overflow/fill tank.

Radiator hoses are done.

Haven't touched the fuel line yet. All the hard lines for the filer and regulator running to the bulkhead fitting in the tub are already there. I have enough stainless hard line AND stainless braid to run it either way. I'd like to run the hard line down the length of the frame, but the may turn out to be a giant pain. It has to run on the outside of the frame due to the exhaust being right next to the inboard side of the frame.

still have to plumb the engine breather system. That will "tee both sides together and then 4 sides and run into a catch can. Already have the catch cane mounted, but I need to weld the fittings on the new valve covers I bought. Have to weld on a new fill cap too.

Does the windshield washer plumbing count?:flipoff2:I haven't done shit with that either. Will need to buy some rubber tube.


Shit is getting crowded fast... Gonna need to clean it up.

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I’m not sure I understand. You got a hydro crimper, but the lines at the orbital look like “field service” fittings. Not that they are bad. I used them all over my build. But I didn’t have a crimper. I need one now for the Vulcan.

Anyways, everything looks titz.
 
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