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Blue Jeep build

The grill is all welded out and trimmed now. How I didn't fold/bend/smash/crush it during the million steps when it was pretty flimsy, I'll never know. I'm just glad it didn't happen.

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Added a couple mounting tabs on the top that use the same dzus fasteners as the top cover. Top cover fits over them.

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For the bits around the headlights, I had thought about making them deeper, so I could have them stop flush with the front of the headlights. Upon further investigation, I would need the 12 and 6 o'clock positions of the radius pieces to be bent so they sit horizontal when installed. So at 6 o'clock the radius would need to be bent at less than a 90* and at 12 o'clock, it would need more than a 90*. That just seemed like more of a hassle than it was worth and if I want to pull a mold of it to make composites, it goes from a one piece mold to three pieces, with separate sections for the headlights. You'd never get the part out of a one piece mold.

So I stuck with the one round piece I had already made and just made another just like it. I actually like it because the depth is the same as the slots. I did have to trim down to nothing in a couple spots to allow the headlights to be adjusted around without contact.

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I did find two spots I forgot to get some weld on. I'll also need to drill a pair of holes on the sides and two holes at the bottom front where it sits above the frame. for dzus mounts. Other than that it's done........................I think:flipoff2:
 
Next up is going to be finishing the air filter box/ air intake. Which is just fitting/welding the intake tube to the box, cutting the hole in the box and adding a threaded bit to hold the lid on.

I can't believe I'm actually starting to think about headers and that frightens me:eek:
 
very nice work:beer::beer:

Thank you Sir.

It's certainly not perfect, but it's the best I could do. Pretty low bar. I think it will be fine for a rig that'll get smashed up.



That grill is magnificent!



Your fear is appreciable, that part of your build genuinely sounds exhausting.

Thank you.

The plan is a set of Tri-Y's. I hope that makes it easier dealing with two tubes going under the tub instead of four.
 
Finished the two spots I needed to weld, then added a dzus tab on each frame rail and drilled the grill.

I my excitement to see this thing get finished, I decided to spray bomb it with rustoleum.

While I was watching the paint dry, I noticed something didn't look right with the newly installed dzus tabs.

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Hopefully I can just cut the tabs off and turn the bolts around. If not I have two holes in the grill I need to fill.


But the grill does look better with color on it.:flipoff2:

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Got lucky with the engine cage bolts. Bent the dzus tabs to get the bolts out and they JUST fit the other way. They drag across the bump stop mounts and need a little tap with a hammer........calling it a win:flipoff2:
 
Solid work. I know how much effort it took to put it together.

Nice job on the hand made grill. Looked like a lot of work/hours, came out great.


Thank you guys.

It was a lot of work....................................but it was also a great learning experience and fun "most" of the time. I hope I never have to do it again though.:flipoff2:
 
How close are you to driving this thing?

Still have a lot of work to do.

Right now I'm trying to knock out everything I need the tub and frame together to complete. That list is getting pretty small now.

The list of things to do in the tub when it's off the frame is really small. Just a few things to do with the drive train out of the way and a couple hole to fill.

The frame needs a lot of welding and additional work where the body is in the way. Most of the brackets and x-members are just tacked right now.

Once the body is off the frame, I think progress will move pretty fast. I just need to make sure I don't forget something stupid before I pull the body.


edit: I have a few parts waiting to go on the engine too.
 
Air intake coming along.

I originally had a straight piece running to the bottom of the air filter box, until I realized the hole to connect them together would be wider than the air filter itself. So I bought a 45* section, which turned out to be perfect.


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A little fitting and it fit flush to the bottom.

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Then I ran into a slight problem. How the fuck was I going to be able to mark the bottom of the air box for the hole. I could only touch it in a couple spots with a finger.

Sharpie on a stick.

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Made sense out of the wild flailing with the sharpie stick and actually cut a hole in the right spot.

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Tacked together and test fit.


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Welded out and ground.

Here's where I'm not sure what I should do. With the angle that the round tube comes into it, I have no clue if I'm setting myself up for a bunch of turbulence up around the 12 0'clock position in the picture.

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Better pic of what I'm concerned about.

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I'm thinking about getting something like this bell mouth velocity stack from Vibrant to hack up and weld over the opening.


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I made the sides high on purpose so I could slowly trim it down to fit with the hood scoop.

Where it started.

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Hit the picture limit

to be continued:flipoff2:
 
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Here's where the filter box ended up after trimming.

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Here's my plan for sealing the air box.

I've got this to put around the edge of the alum box.

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And this to stick on the bottom of the scoop directly over the box.

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Which hopefully will do this when they come together.

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I still have to add a couple tabs so the box can bolt to the engine cage cross bar, tabs to hold the filter in place, a threaded stud for the filter top and close off the back side up to where it's even with the hood.
 
Just draw some arrows inside the box and tube for how you want the air to travel and I'm sure the air molecules will follow them to a tee:flipoff2::flipoff2:.
Only thing I can think of is to check for turbulence is, hook up a shop vac to the side where it connects to the throttle body to suck air and then light something on fire that smokes a lot(put out fire) and see how the smoke travels (no air filter) through the box when you put the smoky item close to the air box as that shop vac is sucking air through it. Good luck.

Is that called "thinking outside the box"?:laughing::laughing:
 
Just draw some arrows inside the box and tube for how you want the air to travel and I'm sure the air molecules will follow them to a tee:flipoff2::flipoff2:.
Only thing I can think of is to check for turbulence is, hook up a shop vac to the side where it connects to the throttle body to suck air and then light something on fire that smokes a lot(put out fire) and see how the smoke travels (no air filter) through the box when you put the smoky item close to the air box as that shop vac is sucking air through it. Good luck.

Is that called "thinking outside the box"?:laughing::laughing:

That's a good idea to get a basic idea of how it will work. Wouldn't be hard to rig up.

Maybe burn a couple old tires for the smoke:flipoff2:





Looks really good.

Thank you Sir.
 
put some oil in the tires and pour some oil over them, to get really good smoke and spill a little gas on top too for a quick ignition!!!
 
Would it be good to add some bead rolls or some kinda sound deadening? Talking out my ass here but thinking it may resonate
 
Would it be good to add some bead rolls or some kinda sound deadening? Talking out my ass here but thinking it may resonate

Probably not a bad idea. To be honest, I hadn't really thought about it.

I now have two tabs on the sides of the box that rubber mount to the engine cage cross bar. Planing to do a single rubber mounted tab in the center front of the box that goes to the shock mount structure. And, there will be the top rubber seals against the scoop.

I think that should do a pretty good job of damping vibes. Only way to know for sure is when it's running though.

In addition, the whole box and intake piping will be covered in DEI Heat Screen gold. It will be glued onto the box, so that should also help cut down vibes.
 
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A gallon and a half of bondo later and we now have something we can start sanding into a buck.


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Bent up a pair of door bars. Runs from the second B-pillar hoop, down to the seat mount x-member. May put a little tie-in piece between the door bar and the first B-pillar hoop if there is room to actually weld it.

Got the driver side all fit up. Then I moved to the piece I bent up for the passenger side and proceeded to rotate it the wrong way for a notch and fucked it up. So that was 4' of wasted tube and I get to do it all over again.:shaking:

I'm not even going to tack them in place right now. Working around them would be a giant pain.


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Nice job on the air cleaner tray, seal and cowl hood setup.
:smokin:
Usually cowl hoods are for dudes with bowtie tattoos and mullets, but I like the reduced length and proportions of your setup.
 
Nice job on the air cleaner tray, seal and cowl hood setup.
:smokin:
Usually cowl hoods are for dudes with bowtie tattoos and mullets, but I like the reduced length and proportions of your setup.

Thank you Sir.

That was the shortest/narrowest cowl scoop I could find. Most were actually longer than the JK hood.

I can still see the passenger side front of the hood from the driver seat, so it didn't hurt forward vision. I was kind of worried about that going in.
 
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