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Beadlock wheels out there?

I came across Sidetracked Off Road on a FB rock crawling classifieds group. I see they were mentioned in this thread once but no real review. Has anyone used their tires or have experience with them? Their 17x9 steel beadlock is only $210. I’m wondering if it is on par with the Battleborn wheels. Their aluminum wheels are only $325 which seems really good as well.

Wheels

sidetrackedoffroad.com sidetrackedoffroad.com
 
crazy4ih said:
I came across Sidetracked Off Road on a FB rock crawling classifieds group. I see they were mentioned in this thread once but no real review. Has anyone used their tires or have experience with them? Their 17x9 steel beadlock is only $210. I’m wondering if it is on par with the Battleborn wheels. Their aluminum wheels are only $325 which seems really good as well.

Wheels

sidetrackedoffroad.com sidetrackedoffroad.com
Click to expand...

I've got a set of the aluminum 17x9" 8 on 170mm wheels. I think they are decent for the price, just plan on running a tap through all the threaded inserts before attempting to put them together.

The inserts they use are garbage and tend to seize on the bolts and spin. They are also use M10 hardware instead of the typical 3/8" stuff so you need a metric tap to clean out the inserts, and the aluminum wheels don't come with starter bolts like the steel wheels apparently do based on the installation instructions :confused:
 
crazy4ih said:
I came across Sidetracked Off Road on a FB rock crawling classifieds group. I see they were mentioned in this thread once but no real review. Has anyone used their tires or have experience with them? Their 17x9 steel beadlock is only $210. I’m wondering if it is on par with the Battleborn wheels. Their aluminum wheels are only $325 which seems really good as well.

Wheels

sidetrackedoffroad.com sidetrackedoffroad.com
Click to expand...
That was me. I now have several runs on them with my buggy. I didn't have any issues with the inserts spinning when installing the rings. I've flogged them pretty good now, and am quite fond of them especially for the money. The bolts haven't loosened up yet, as I was checking torque on them the other day. Pretty happy with them considering every other AL beadlock I like and looked at before, had such a long lead time I would have never had them in time for my next run, and I wasn't going back to steel.
 
Fwiw, I saw a 2 1/2t axle buggy running the rbp 20s at winter insanity fab race. He even popped a tire and kept driving for a while, as far as I could see the wheel looked fine.
20230107_131259_01.jpg
 
I recently bought 5 sidetracked off road beadlocks and 5 racelines.

I dont like that the sidetracked wheels only come in 3-1/2" back spacing and the mounting serface for the lugnuts is recessed back into the wheel so far that it doesnt leave much meat left. Im sure they will be fine on my lightweight samurai so thats where I put them and ordered new wheels for the bronco.

20221001_110741.jpg
 
2big bronco said:
I recently bought 5 sidetracked off road beadlocks and 5 racelines.

I dont like that the sidetracked wheels only come in 3-1/2" back spacing and the mounting serface for the lugnuts is recessed back into the wheel so far that it doesnt leave much meat left. Im sure they will be fine on my lightweight samurai so thats where I put them and ordered new wheels for the bronco.
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I noticed that also. If you have ever had a lugnut strip or stud spin, you'd be afraid of those wheels.

I'm betting they use one casting for that wheel and could machine it for other back spacing. I wonder if they just were trying to cater to Toyotas with that backspacing.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I noticed that also. If you have ever had a lugnut strip or stud spin, you'd be afraid of those wheels.

I'm betting they use one casting for that wheel and could machine it for other back spacing. I wonder if they just were trying to cater to Toyotas with that backspacing.
Click to expand...
Thats what it seems like but its the only back spacing they offer between all the lug patterns... and if its a ripoff of another wheel then its of one I havnt seen.
 
2big bronco said:
Thats what it seems like but its the only back spacing they offer between all the lug patterns... and if its a ripoff of another wheel then its of one I havnt seen.
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I got the ones you bought mixed up with the other style they offer in 8x6.5. In 8 lug you get 4.25" bs, 6x5.5 and 5x5.5 are 3.5" and everything else is 3.75"

All I meant is that looking at the Pics, I don't see why they couldn't machine them to have more back spacing. Just take more off the back and not recess the lugnut seat so much? I know other manufacturers do this.
 
PoBoy84 said:
That was me. I now have several runs on them with my buggy. I didn't have any issues with the inserts spinning when installing the rings. I've flogged them pretty good now, and am quite fond of them especially for the money. The bolts haven't loosened up yet, as I was checking torque on them the other day. Pretty happy with them considering every other AL beadlock I like and looked at before, had such a long lead time I would have never had them in time for my next run, and I wasn't going back to steel.
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I ordered a set of steel ones, and have yet to run them, I don't have an issue with the wheel, but the washers shipped with the hardware coned over pretty bad setting them to there torque specs.
and I sent an email three weeks ago and have yet to get an answer.
Some of that is my fault for being passive about a follow up..


I got nothing beyond that.
 
i saw them stag wheels and steel bead locks. it was a toss up but looks like i will be going this route i dont want to spend the time welding all this shit up but dammmm... i rerally like the anti coning of total metal so that for me was the ticket.
1673633889092.png


1673633943932.png
 
chaplinfj60 said:
i saw them stag wheels and steel bead locks. it was a toss up but looks like i will be going this route i dont want to spend the time welding all this shit up but dammmm... i rerally like the anti coning of total metal so that for me was the ticket.
1673633889092.png


1673633943932.png
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You realize those side tracked beadlocks have a formed outer ring that acts as an anticoning ring?

Youre like 90%+ the cost with shitty weld on beadlocks before you even weld them up.

I said it before, but I don't think it makes sense cost wise to buy new wheels and weld beadlocks on. It really only makes sense if you already have the wheels.
 
arse_sidewards said:
Or if you want doubles.
Click to expand...

I haven't seen weld on doubles in years. They were a nightmare to mount tires to iirc. Not to mention hardly any brakes are going to clear the inside of a ring.

I do remember, I think it was ScottRS maybe that made double weld on beadlocks with a size smaller wheel. 16" trailer wheels iirc. Was supposed to make it easier to mount :laughing:
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I do remember, I think it was ScottRS maybe that made double weld on beadlocks with a size smaller wheel. 16" trailer wheels iirc. Was supposed to make it easier to mount :laughing:
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Made it possible to mount. And I couldn't get 17x6's with reasonable backspacing at the time, and couldn't get the parts combo to build them. You remember correctly, they were 16x6 trailer wheels plus two weld on locks with the ID of the inner lock rings opened up to about 15", so brakes too big to fit in 15's were a no-go with them. But they were about invincible. I think a total of two sets were ever made; Dave Cole got the other set. I drove from Sunbonnet back to the lakebed on a cut sidewall one time and while I demolished the tire, the wheel was no worse than dirty, and what was left of the tire was still secure on arrival.
 
ScottRS said:
Made it possible to mount. And I couldn't get 17x6's with reasonable backspacing at the time, and couldn't get the parts combo to build them. You remember correctly, they were 16x6 trailer wheels plus two weld on locks with the ID of the inner lock rings opened up to about 15", so brakes too big to fit in 15's were a no-go with them. But they were about invincible. I think a total of two sets were ever made; Dave Cole got the other set. I drove from Sunbonnet back to the lakebed on a cut sidewall one time and while I demolished the tire, the wheel was no worse than dirty, and what was left of the tire was still secure on arrival.
Click to expand...

If only I could put my memory of random retarded 4x4 tidbits to good use :laughing::homer:

How were they for leaks?

Only guys I really know using double beadlocks anymore are big snow tire guys. Shit like 17x14 with minimal backspacing. I have wondered if your method would work well on some of those 16x10 or 12 Bart steel wheels.
 
ScottRS said:
I drove from Sunbonnet back to the lakebed on a cut sidewall one time and while I demolished the tire, the wheel was no worse than dirty, and what was left of the tire was still secure on arrival.
Click to expand...
Sounds about right. :laughing:
 
YotaAtieToo said:
If only I could put my memory of random retarded 4x4 tidbits to good use :laughing::homer:

How were they for leaks?

Only guys I really know using double beadlocks anymore are big snow tire guys. Shit like 17x14 with minimal backspacing. I have wondered if your method would work well on some of those 16x10 or 12 Bart steel wheels.
Click to expand...
About the same as any locks, throw some slime in and rock on.
They worked as well in snow as red label krawlers ever do, but no rolling inner beads at low pressure.
I suppose if you had little enough backspacing on the parent wheel they'd work to turn a 16x10 into a 17x13ish, but you're adding half that to the inboard side, so clearance can run out fast.
 
ScottRS said:
About the same as any locks, throw some slime in and rock on.
They worked as well in snow as red label krawlers ever do, but no rolling inner beads at low pressure.
I suppose if you had little enough backspacing on the parent wheel they'd work to turn a 16x10 into a 17x13ish, but you're adding half that to the inboard side, so clearance can run out fast.
Click to expand...

Leaks can really suck when you're only at 1lb or whatever. I spent a lot of time on my 2 sets of weld ons making sure they didn't leak.

I agree you have to start with probably 2" bs or so. I think Bart makes those type of wheels for mud trucks or whatever.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
You realize those side tracked beadlocks have a formed outer ring that acts as an anticoning ring?

Youre like 90%+ the cost with shitty weld on beadlocks before you even weld them up.

I said it before, but I don't think it makes sense cost wise to buy new wheels and weld beadlocks on. It really only makes sense if you already have the wheels.
Click to expand...
no i know nothing about the side tracked besides what i am reading. let me go back through and do more looking/ reading
 
chaplinfj60 said:
my thoughts,,,, if i am spending 210, i am 2/3rds the way to the AL,, why not do them its not a weight thing, the raw AL looks sharp
Click to expand...

I agree, I just can't picture shinny wheels on your rig :flipoff2:

If I go with 17s I'm going to give them a shot, I like the outter ring design. Doesn't hold water and should be pretty strong.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
You realize those side tracked beadlocks have a formed outer ring that acts as an anticoning ring?

Youre like 90%+ the cost with shitty weld on beadlocks before you even weld them up.

I said it before, but I don't think it makes sense cost wise to buy new wheels and weld beadlocks on. It really only makes sense if you already have the wheels.
Click to expand...

having built these before. hard freaking pass....Id sooner go with the gorilla tape bead trick and run more air pressure than weld-ons.
 
pennsylvaniaboy said:
having built these before. hard freaking pass....Id sooner go with the gorilla tape bead trick and run more air pressure than weld-ons.
Click to expand...

Same here, like I said, by the time you add up wheels, rings, hardware, welding consumables, flap wheels and lots of hours of frustration just to have a most likely leaky, wobbly beadlock, it's hard to justify. Back when wheels were $40 and weld on kits were $30-40 per wheel it wasn't a bad option.


I did do these kits on some stock Sami wheels a few years ago and they've been decent for my use.

www.speedwaymotors.com

Speedway Beadlock Kit for 15 Inch Racing Wheel

This bead lock kit welds to 15" steel wheel. One piece steel ring with attached threaded inserts. Complete with mounting hardware and 3/16" thick weld-on steel ring. All threaded nuts come pre-attached. Winners use these on both the inside and the outside! Item Details Bolts, inner & outer steel...
www.speedwaymotors.com www.speedwaymotors.com

They were 35 trump dollars ea at the time with everything but welding wire. So like $140 plus some free wheels and I had lightweight beadlocks in the exact size I needed. I like that the outter rings are formed as I think it helps center the tire a little. Not sure they'd work well on a full size crawler, but people have done it.

Now that they have gone up, if I were to do it again, I'd probably just do these, can't build them cheaper unless you already have wheels that have no resale value.

www.speedwaymotors.com

Bassett 58DJ2L 15X8 D-Hole 5 on 5.5 2 Inch BS Black Beadlock Wheel

Bassett's 15 x 8 spun shell beadlock wheel is the only beadlock utilizing 100% spun-form shells and rings. Spun-form shells and rings are stronger, lighter and have less runout than roll-formed beadlock wheels.Another important feature of the Bassett beadlock is the stepped design of the two...
www.speedwaymotors.com www.speedwaymotors.com
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Same here, like I said, by the time you add up wheels, rings, hardware, welding consumables, flap wheels and lots of hours of frustration just to have a most likely leaky, wobbly beadlock, it's hard to justify. Back when wheels were $40 and weld on kits were $30-40 per wheel it wasn't a bad option.


I did do these kits on some stock Sami wheels a few years ago and they've been decent for my use.

www.speedwaymotors.com

Speedway Beadlock Kit for 15 Inch Racing Wheel

This bead lock kit welds to 15" steel wheel. One piece steel ring with attached threaded inserts. Complete with mounting hardware and 3/16" thick weld-on steel ring. All threaded nuts come pre-attached. Winners use these on both the inside and the outside! Item Details Bolts, inner & outer steel...
www.speedwaymotors.com www.speedwaymotors.com

They were 35 trump dollars ea at the time with everything but welding wire. So like $140 plus some free wheels and I had lightweight beadlocks in the exact size I needed. I like that the outter rings are formed as I think it helps center the tire a little. Not sure they'd work well on a full size crawler, but people have done it.

Now that they have gone up, if I were to do it again, I'd probably just do these, can't build them cheaper unless you already have wheels that have no resale value.

www.speedwaymotors.com

Bassett 58DJ2L 15X8 D-Hole 5 on 5.5 2 Inch BS Black Beadlock Wheel

Bassett's 15 x 8 spun shell beadlock wheel is the only beadlock utilizing 100% spun-form shells and rings. Spun-form shells and rings are stronger, lighter and have less runout than roll-formed beadlock wheels.Another important feature of the Bassett beadlock is the stepped design of the two...
www.speedwaymotors.com www.speedwaymotors.com
Click to expand...
A set of four steelies is like maybe $60 on CL if you're in a hurry..

Call it $300 after beadlocks, so basically half off if you DIY it.
 
arse_sidewards said:
A set of four steelies is like maybe $60 on CL if you're in a hurry..

Call it $300 after beadlocks, so basically half off if you DIY it.
Click to expand...

I've had about zero luck finding the right size wheels I need on CL. Especially if stock back spacing won't work.

Edit: just looked, nothing in 5x5.5, especially not 15x6 or 7 with 2" bs.

Trust me, I miss the days of deals on Craigslist, but they're 90% gone. At least on this side of the country. They're still a good option if you have the wheels and adding ~1.5" of width is OK.
 
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Searched, didn't see any mention of the Icon Rebound PROs yet. We've got them on a co-worker's Gladiator. Simple in design, pretty much a modified version of old school Drag and Sand wheels where people were using screws to anchor the tire bead, except the way Icon does it, it doesn't F-up the tire bead.

They are also lighter and cheaper than a traditional beadlock. My only complaint is no sacrificial rash ring, though Icon is working on a version with a rash ring.

Icon-PRO-2.png





interlock-technology-2.jpeg


Out playing around at the local ORV park with 3 psi in the tires:

 
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