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Beadlock wheels out there?

Searched, didn't see any mention of the Icon Rebound PROs yet. We've got them on a co-worker's Gladiator. Simple in design, pretty much a modified version of old school Drag and Sand wheels where people were using screws to anchor the tire bead, except the way Icon does it, it doesn't F-up the tire bead.

They are also lighter and cheaper than a traditional beadlock. My only complaint is no sacrificial rash ring, though Icon is working on a version with a rash ring.

Icon-PRO-2.png





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Out playing around at the local ORV park with 3 psi in the tires:



Whoever is in that video is even more annoying than that new guy working on a pos Toyota in a carport :flipoff2:


Thats an interesting idea. One thing you didn't touch on is that it doesn't prevent the tire from spinning on the wheel like a regular beadlock does. Although I don't think many modern radials have that issue. The last drill screw beadlocks I helped do were my buddies 33 baja claws on steel wheels. The screws eliminated blown beads, but leaked like crazy and when snow wheelin at low pressure, the tires would spin on the wheels. The icon design should eliminate leaks, but certain tires will spin on the wheel. cough iroks cough :flipoff2:


Now, I realize they aren't marketing these at hardcore guys running 1-3 lbs for snow. But more to compete with the method bead grips or whatever as a middle ground between full beadlocks and nothing, which I think they did a good job at.

Although, I still say duct tape on a regular wheel is just as effective as either of those wheels. :laughing:
 
Searched, didn't see any mention of the Icon Rebound PROs yet. We've got them on a co-worker's Gladiator. Simple in design, pretty much a modified version of old school Drag and Sand wheels where people were using screws to anchor the tire bead, except the way Icon does it, it doesn't F-up the tire bead.

They are also lighter and cheaper than a traditional beadlock. My only complaint is no sacrificial rash ring, though Icon is working on a version with a rash ring.

Icon-PRO-2.png





interlock-technology-2.jpeg


Out playing around at the local ORV park with 3 psi in the tires:


Brilliant.

Now, how about another set of screws on the other bead?
 
Searched, didn't see any mention of the Icon Rebound PROs yet. We've got them on a co-worker's Gladiator. Simple in design, pretty much a modified version of old school Drag and Sand wheels where people were using screws to anchor the tire bead, except the way Icon does it, it doesn't F-up the tire bead.

They are also lighter and cheaper than a traditional beadlock. My only complaint is no sacrificial rash ring, though Icon is working on a version with a rash ring.

Icon-PRO-2.png





interlock-technology-2.jpeg


Out playing around at the local ORV park with 3 psi in the tires:



I like the idea but why not both beads?
 
I like the idea but why not both beads?

I thought that too, but who do you think theyre targeting? Probably not guys with buggies on 43s Or whatever.

It also looks like they made the wheel a lot thicker in that area, when you add in the bolt heads, I can see how you might run into clearance issues with brakes on newer vehicles where standard 17s are the bare minimum that fit the calipers.

I wonder if newer factory aluminum wheels have enough meat in them to do a diy version of this?

I run these on my DD/weekend warrior 96 4runner on 35s. I like to go super low in the snow to keep up with 40-42s and have had good luck so far, but a little extra assurance would be nice.

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I thought there might be extra meat there because of where the wms is, but it looks like it's pretty normal. Would really suck to crack a wheel in half :homer::laughing:

So, back to duct tape :flipoff2:
 
Thats an interesting idea. One thing you didn't touch on is that it doesn't prevent the tire from spinning on the wheel like a regular beadlock does. Although I don't think many modern radials have that issue.

It probably depends on the thickness of the tire bead. A thicker bead will get pinched tighter than a thinner bead.
But, I gotta say we we out crawling around for a couple hours at 3 psi and never even heard a burp.


Now, I realize they aren't marketing these at hardcore guys running 1-3 lbs for snow. But more to compete with the method bead grips or whatever as a middle ground between full beadlocks and nothing, which I think they did a good job at.

The market is the new rigs, JLs, JTs, Broncos etc. That's where the money is, that's where you spend your marketing dollars.


Brilliant.

Now, how about another set of screws on the other bead?
I like the idea but why not both beads?

Walk before you run.

I think the more important thing is to get them to do a replaceable rash ring first.

Plus, rolling an inner bead is fairly rare, that should be down the list aways.
 
It probably depends on the thickness of the tire bead. A thicker bead will get pinched tighter than a thinner bead.
But, I gotta say we we out crawling around for a couple hours at 3 psi and never even heard a burp.

I've ran 3 different sets of "modern" radials (ie: falkens, pats, kenda, not iroks or ssrs) on the stock 4runner wheels I posted, down to 2-3 psi with out an issue knock on wood

Throw a set of bias 39.5" iroks or many other interco tires, on those, and you'll be spinning tires at 2-3 psi in the snow. You'll also be blowing inner beads like crazy when they leak out from burping. But, that problem exists with single beadlocks also.

The market is the new rigs, JLs, JTs, Broncos etc. That's where the money is, that's where you spend your marketing dollars.

Exactly, which is why nothing I posted above is really relevant.

I think the more important thing is to get them to do a replaceable rash ring first.

Plus, rolling an inner bead is fairly rare, that should be down the list aways.

Theyre also super easy to seat when you have an outter lock. Done it with the smallest cheapest compressors with no issues.

Do you think there is enough room on the inner bead for them?



This reminds me, I feel like Corey Young made a set of 20" beadlocks with basically the same idea. I'm curious if he's had issues with the tire spinning.
 
Those screw-beads remind me of B.A.D. Wheels, which seem to have gone away.


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Anything wheel pros, like KMC especially are junk. The company sucks, doesn’t stand behind the product or care about clients.

My last KMC wheels looked like blems. Thin paint, bubbles in them, poor machining, and I bent 3 of 6 in the first few months. KMC is not a company, just a line of wheels from wheel pros with no customer support.

I wouldn’t run free KMC’s they would devalue a non running XJ
 
Those screw-beads remind me of B.A.D. Wheels, which seem to have gone away.


41118374.jpg


41118380.jpg

I guess those ended up being a B.A.D. idea. :lmao:
 
Anything wheel pros, like KMC especially are junk. The company sucks, doesn’t stand behind the product or care about clients.

My last KMC wheels looked like blems. Thin paint, bubbles in them, poor machining, and I bent 3 of 6 in the first few months. KMC is not a company, just a line of wheels from wheel pros with no customer support.

I wouldn’t run free KMC’s they would devalue a non running XJ

I saw alot of cracked and broken KMC wheels in short course SxS racing the year I raced. The only ones I've never heard anything bad about are the forged wheels but they are stupidly expensive and only come is a stupid width/offset thats useless for anything other than a desert car.
 
I pulled the trigger on a set of sidetracked for the new buggy build. Overall they are pretty nice. I will get my 43s mounted this week.
Fit and finish is good, packaging was top notch. Inner lip is nice and thick, safety bead looks bigger than my black rhinos.
 

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I pulled the trigger on a set of sidetracked for the new buggy build. Overall they are pretty nice. I will get my 43s mounted this week.
Fit and finish is good, packaging was top notch. Inner lip is nice and thick, safety bead looks bigger than my black rhinos.
i got the same ones and i am super happy bare aluminum though
 
I pulled the trigger on a set of sidetracked for the new buggy build. Overall they are pretty nice. I will get my 43s mounted this week.
Fit and finish is good, packaging was top notch. Inner lip is nice and thick, safety bead looks bigger than my black rhinos.

What's going on with 2 sets of holes? Are 1 set helicoiled?
 
and i have toyed with getting part of them powder coated but in the end i will leave raw. love the rectangle holes.


and the crazy part its not that much more money to these vice steel wheels and diy beadlocks. no brainer for me....
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one set has the steel inserts for the ring bolts and the second set is for when the first set fucks up. :laughing:

Inserts is pretty awesome, especially for how cheap they are. :smokin:

The other set of holes is larger and would need inserts installed?

and i have toyed with getting part of them powder coated but in the end i will leave raw. love the rectangle holes.


and the crazy part its not that much more money to these vice steel wheels and diy beadlocks. no brainer for me....

You're welcome :flipoff2:

If I end with 17s, I'm getting these exact wheels.
 
I pulled the trigger on a set of sidetracked for the new buggy build. Overall they are pretty nice. I will get my 43s mounted this week.
Fit and finish is good, packaging was top notch. Inner lip is nice and thick, safety bead looks bigger than my black rhinos.
any chance someone could post a picture of the safety (inner) bead? my 43 SX like to pop off the inner bead so i'm interested in the amount of grip there. thanks
 
Inserts is pretty awesome, especially for how cheap they are. :smokin:

The other set of holes is larger and would need inserts installed?



You're welcome :flipoff2:

If I end with 17s, I'm getting these exact wheels.

Yes the second set is tapped for the steel insert, but no insert installed. The steel inserts are actually 3/8-16 instead of metric. Ill measure the empty holes this evening. They look like 1/2-13 but I will confirm that. I will also thread in the socket head cap screws and see if they are flush with the ring or sit below the lip.
 
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