WaterH
Well-known member
Hate may be a strong word. I don't care if you call me a big *****, just don't call my build a hack job. (Them's fightin words)
ps Bgaiden is one of my best bros.
Is that Mog yours? Build thread?
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Amphibious HEMTT
- Thread starter WaterH
- Start date
Hate may be a strong word. I don't care if you call me a big *****, just don't call my build a hack job. (Them's fightin words)
ps Bgaiden is one of my best bros.
Is that Mog yours? Build thread?
WaterH
Well-known member
Small update.
If you recall from the last update there was a open area behind the door.
I decided to fill that in with flat sheet and continue the armrest back.
This little piece was a pain because I had to angle the rest for the door swing. So I had to match the angle on the frame side.
The way to do this proper would be to make it in one piece and then slice it at the angle. But do as I say, not as I do.
It looks like its about time for upholstery. Lol.
If you recall from the last update there was a open area behind the door.
I decided to fill that in with flat sheet and continue the armrest back.
This little piece was a pain because I had to angle the rest for the door swing. So I had to match the angle on the frame side.
The way to do this proper would be to make it in one piece and then slice it at the angle. But do as I say, not as I do.
It looks like its about time for upholstery. Lol.
WaterH
Well-known member
Small update,
i needed some kind of way to keep the doors from opening too far and hitting the mirrors. I engineered some straps and mounts for stops like the old jeeps. A friend of mine has all the equipment to make seatbelts, so I had him sew up some small belts. They worked. But, after a bunch of work, I didn't like them. So back to the drawing board.
This is time I used an idea from a helicopter door. Gas spring to hold it open and stop it from going to far. It works smart.
When the door is shut, it is nice and tight next to the door.
i needed some kind of way to keep the doors from opening too far and hitting the mirrors. I engineered some straps and mounts for stops like the old jeeps. A friend of mine has all the equipment to make seatbelts, so I had him sew up some small belts. They worked. But, after a bunch of work, I didn't like them. So back to the drawing board.
This is time I used an idea from a helicopter door. Gas spring to hold it open and stop it from going to far. It works smart.
When the door is shut, it is nice and tight next to the door.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
Does it push the door open when you hit the latch?
WaterH
Well-known member
Yes, the spring is 15 lb. push. It's not that much to hold back or shut because you have leverage at the handle. But all you have to do is hit the latch and it will open completely. On a normal truck/car I don't think I would like it because you might hit the car next to you in a parking lot. In this case, the HEMTT is a foot wider at the tire than the cab. So assuming I park with some clearance to the next car, the door probably won't reach it.
Next at time I get it out, I'm going to park it on a hill to see if the spring will hold the door weight. I'm guessing the doors weigh about 30 lbs.
WaterH
Well-known member
Up date,
i dont know if anyone has followed this from the beginning, but if you did, and you remember, I never got the steps figured out. The goal was to have machanical design that I could put down and up from inside and outside the truck. I got working on them again and have them basically done. Here's a shot takin from the wheel well with the steps down.
Heres the same shot shot with the steps retracted.
From the inside, you can see the lever in front of the seat. (Steps out)
And steps retracted.
Im pretty happy with them. They are spring loaded to retract. But the design has a "past center" point where the spring holds the steps out. If you step on it, it really holds them out. (So nobody can pull the lever while your on it) When no weight is on the step, you just need to move the lever about 2" and it retracts be itself. The spring is a oil filled gas spring, so when you let it retract, it doesn't "slap" up.
Here's a shot underneath from the front showing the spring.
There are only a couple semi-flaws.
1. It takes about 5-6 lbs. pull on the lever to extend the steps. This is not terrible from either inside or outside. But, if your outside and not paying attention, you could swing the steps right into your knee. Dam, would that hurt.
2. When the steps are up, there's not much pull left in the springs. Sometimes they don't go right up to the frame. I don't like them hanging down an inch. I might have to get a stronger pull spring, but the next size is 45 lbs. which might be too much. (Current is 30 lbs.) Of course with the leverage, your not pulling that hard on the lever.
Im going to pull it outside and drive on some bumps to see if the steps will bounce down or up.
i dont know if anyone has followed this from the beginning, but if you did, and you remember, I never got the steps figured out. The goal was to have machanical design that I could put down and up from inside and outside the truck. I got working on them again and have them basically done. Here's a shot takin from the wheel well with the steps down.
Heres the same shot shot with the steps retracted.
From the inside, you can see the lever in front of the seat. (Steps out)
And steps retracted.
Im pretty happy with them. They are spring loaded to retract. But the design has a "past center" point where the spring holds the steps out. If you step on it, it really holds them out. (So nobody can pull the lever while your on it) When no weight is on the step, you just need to move the lever about 2" and it retracts be itself. The spring is a oil filled gas spring, so when you let it retract, it doesn't "slap" up.
Here's a shot underneath from the front showing the spring.
There are only a couple semi-flaws.
1. It takes about 5-6 lbs. pull on the lever to extend the steps. This is not terrible from either inside or outside. But, if your outside and not paying attention, you could swing the steps right into your knee. Dam, would that hurt.
2. When the steps are up, there's not much pull left in the springs. Sometimes they don't go right up to the frame. I don't like them hanging down an inch. I might have to get a stronger pull spring, but the next size is 45 lbs. which might be too much. (Current is 30 lbs.) Of course with the leverage, your not pulling that hard on the lever.
Im going to pull it outside and drive on some bumps to see if the steps will bounce down or up.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
That's really cool.
WaterH
Well-known member
So I took the truck outside to test the steps security. Not bad, but I'm going to go to the next stronger spring to hold them up better.
While I had it out, I figured I'd take some pics of the canvas top.
it looks reasonable from afar.
i still havent done anything at the back.
Up close, it still looks like shit.
This pic is from the ring mount/sun roof. You can see the top looks great. Of course, nobody can see that from the ground.
Ive done some more work. Should have an update soon.
While I had it out, I figured I'd take some pics of the canvas top.
it looks reasonable from afar.
i still havent done anything at the back.
Up close, it still looks like shit.
This pic is from the ring mount/sun roof. You can see the top looks great. Of course, nobody can see that from the ground.
Ive done some more work. Should have an update soon.
HYDRODYNAMIC
Rock Stacker
When you finally let the rats finish off what’s left of those chairs, look into the MasterCraft Military chairs. There are some on ebay and forums but most of the deals happened about 10 years ago when the military project was cancelled. There are a couple different models. A reclining bucket and a foldable jump seat. MasterCraft has a BajaRS which is similar and they also used to have a tactical version.
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WaterH
Well-known member
Dam, those look cool. Why didn't you tell me about them a long time ago. The chairs I have, believe it or not, are C4 Corvette seats. They are known in the Corvette world to be the most comfortable Corvette seats. When I bought them, the leather was allready shot, but they have aged poorly in my garage. My plan is to have them reulpolstered with Black and green leather. I'm actually planning on that fairly soon. I may look into all other possibilities before I pull the trigger, but probably other seats won't fit my tight floor panels.
subybaja
E. Spengler
My 11yo daughter says "That truck looks like a metal dinosaur!"
WaterH
Well-known member
Please tell her thanks.
Ok, guys, I need some imput here. I have decided to paint the truck a green and black camo. I hope to make it look similar to this, but without the brown patches.
There re is no discussion here, I like it. The only thing I'm not sure of is the wheels. They look good in black, but they look good in green also.
Sorry about the bad picture, but you get the idea. I think I know which way I'm going, but I would like to hear from you guys. You did change my mind about the canvas top, so we'll see what everybody thinks about this.
On the canvas top, there was quite a bit of feed back, but that was on "P". Not sure if everyone came over here or if they are still watching this.
subybaja
E. Spengler
Black. google 'hemtt', and 80% are black.
And that Chinese model company used a weird limey-green.
Have you found a legit camo schematic? It always looks hokey when someone just goes to town with spraycans.
Like this?
https://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?t=225282
And that Chinese model company used a weird limey-green.
Have you found a legit camo schematic? It always looks hokey when someone just goes to town with spraycans.
Like this?
https://forums.g503.com/viewtopic.php?t=225282
subybaja
E. Spengler
Those steps came out nice! 
Before you go to mondo-powered gas springs, can you play with attachment points to increase leverage?
For the wheels, I vote black. It keeps the wheels from being a focal point or "feature".
Also, if you rash the wheels & need to touch up, you don't need to mask as well (or at all).
That's SEM 39103 flexible urethane bumper coater, and it's indistinguishable from the tire rubber after a bit of sun & dust, but holds up very well. That photo was freshly sprayed, right after touching up some scrapes, but normally it just blends in w/ the tires.
Before you go to mondo-powered gas springs, can you play with attachment points to increase leverage?
For the wheels, I vote black. It keeps the wheels from being a focal point or "feature".
Also, if you rash the wheels & need to touch up, you don't need to mask as well (or at all).
That's SEM 39103 flexible urethane bumper coater, and it's indistinguishable from the tire rubber after a bit of sun & dust, but holds up very well. That photo was freshly sprayed, right after touching up some scrapes, but normally it just blends in w/ the tires.
WaterH
Well-known member
It's hard to find pics with them green. How about this?
The guys at Steel Solders gave me a link to camo schemes. The pic of yours might be of more help. My plan is to paint the whole truck green and then come back and paint the black. It won't be spray cans, but no promises on whether it looks hokey? If I can't make it look the way I want, I'll take it to the pros. I'm sure that will only cost a kidney.
subybaja
E. Spengler
Yeah, I figured you were on SS.
I was kinda laughing as I typed that, tying to picture you doing a slap-dash job at anything!
Funny, I like color-matched wheels on civvie stuff, but black just seems right for military. All the H1 wheels I have came black, with one single exception that's cream.
I was kinda laughing as I typed that, tying to picture you doing a slap-dash job at anything!
Funny, I like color-matched wheels on civvie stuff, but black just seems right for military. All the H1 wheels I have came black, with one single exception that's cream.
Bigblue 94
Ford Fanatic
Whats up R! I may be the lone wolf out but i like the green wheels better. With the size of tires you are running, there's enough black. As far as them being an accent and standing out, I think brown wheels would stand out way more.
As for the camo, admittedly, im better at natural camos, using grass and leaves as templates. Best idea is to get a big poster board and practice. Paint the base first, then the accents. Remember to make the pattern "3D". Meaning continue some of the brown on both sides of a black swath. Even if its just a little nub of brown on one side. And its a big vehicle so make the camo pattern big. Every feature should be no smaller than a square foot or so.
Have you found that ultra flat paint they use over at SS? Was that a waterbase? Was it just house paint?
As for the camo, admittedly, im better at natural camos, using grass and leaves as templates. Best idea is to get a big poster board and practice. Paint the base first, then the accents. Remember to make the pattern "3D". Meaning continue some of the brown on both sides of a black swath. Even if its just a little nub of brown on one side. And its a big vehicle so make the camo pattern big. Every feature should be no smaller than a square foot or so.
Have you found that ultra flat paint they use over at SS? Was that a waterbase? Was it just house paint?
WaterH
Well-known member
Those steps came out nice!
Before you go to mondo-powered gas springs, can you play with attachment points to increase leverage?
For the wheels, I vote black. ]
On the steps, I'm sick of working on them. I was able to get some 40lb. Springs. Installed they don't feel much differnt when you pulll them down, but they really come up quick. So I need some good rubber where the step hits the frame.
Im leaning black on the wheels. Strange because I hate black wheels on sports cars. Kind of pisses me off that I didn't order black wheels when I had these made. (I could pick whatever I wanted) At the time I didn't even know what the truck was going to look like and I pick the Ford blue.
heres another green wheel pic. I didn't even know they had a 6x6 HEMTT.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
I vote black wheels......................unless it's a really really dark green.
I didn't help did I?
I didn't help did I?
They didn't. That is made from a 900 series 5 ton. There were several that people did, I think Soni's was the first.
WaterH
Well-known member
It would be the same green as the truck in my first post about the paint. I think it's called 383 green. It is dark.
Ive seen a couple HEMTT cabs on other truck frames since I started this, but most are poorly executed. Do you have a link to Soni's?
This one?
92 Green YJ
General Lee Jeep
I’ll add a vote for green wheels. Big ass black tires on big black wheels is just too much black in my opinion. A little contrast is a good thing.
WaterH
Well-known member
In that thread you put me on to, (Thankyou very much), a guy has that same pic. He claims it was a prototype from OshKosh.
BTW, I recommend that thread, I'm still going through it.
ScottRS
Not @Rockstomper today
I feel like all the ones I've seen in real-life have been on either green or tan wheels. So I'm going to have to throw in with the green wheels guys. Unless you want to do the whole thing tan.
Bigblue 94
Ford Fanatic
I live between the home of the Big Red 1, and an ANG base, with two national guard armories in town too. I see HEMTTs quite often and its seems to be a mix of wheel colors. Most all of em here though are tan. I think both ways will look good either way really.
Yup.