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Adventure Rail build(s)!

20 miles of mixed dirt road, pavement and easy trail. Thing is way less sketchy than before. Gets a little spicy above 65 on the pavement... Fans keep it at 191f. Not having the radiator looming right behind my head is comforting . The shade from the new roofline is awesome. All in all, win. :smokin:

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I hate these square headlights (even though they actually do a damn good job).
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Anyone got a line on something that matches the vibe of the rig ? Don't necessarily need to be DOT legal but would be good to keep me from getting pulled over. Dual beam would be cool.
 
Got my custom Brian1 Fab 4 quart bottle holder in. Replaced the leaky master cyl res.
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Threw a bunch of new lightning in it (plugs, wires, cap, rotor) trying to get it to smooth out a bit...

...my my my... What do we have here? A giant freaking vacuum leak under the manifold? That might explain the 2k rpm idle... :homer:

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Guess I forgot about that when I put that new intake on to get the IAC in place. :idea: Gotta go find a cap I can rip off something in the junkyard out back.
 
Cruised to the local brewery for lunch and to pick up a keg today. Had a nice stretch of hwy to open it up. Holy shit I gotta order the wide 5 adapter for my buddies tire balancer. 65 the front tires get to bouncing pretty good. 80 and they are coming off the ground. :laughing: Still low in the rpm range though. Once I get that bent spindle replaced and an alignment done should be able to cruise I-40 no problem. :grinpimp:

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Passengers have all requested something to put thier feet against/push bar.

Rummaged through the shop and came up with this. It will adjust in 1" increments by flipping it fore or aft. Should accommodate just about anyones inseam. The jack screw was added in to keep it from rattling when I'm solo. Got some grip tape on order. Added the little loop for a tie down point for camping gear/tool bags/groceries etc. :grinpimp:
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Thing straight killed it out there today. Will easily do what I envision, as long as I can get its pavement manners addressed.

Rides a bit more harsh than my (dual locked, v8, 32" tire) ZJ, but for 2wd, it is damn close in capabilities. Blew my mind. Hella fun day. It's staying. Time to pour some $ into the front end. :smokin:

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www.relive.cc

'Cedro rail test run.' | Relive

View my drive: Cedro rail test run.
www.relive.cc www.relive.cc
 
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Donor rails front beam has been cut and turned so swapping it out before I start blowing $ on front end parts. It's spindles are straight(er) but the kingpin bushings are fucked. Will rebuild them for a cheap gamble before ordering new spindles.
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You really need shocks that you can adjust the valving up front. Either that or put more weight up there :flipoff2:
 
If you want to get real tricky, cut the beam apart and up the spacing to the same as the spindle pin spacing. Same as using link pin amrs and spindles on a ball joint beam. In the old days this was called a parallel beam. It gets rid of the pro-dive geometry under braking.

Since the new beam is lacking towers, lean the shocks as far forward as possible. They should be hitting the beam on full droop. The only way to get actual good shock geometry is off the upper arm, but that's a lot of fabbing on a sand car frame.

I would also recommend and X brace for the front of the frame, they flex a lot.
 
bdkw1 said:
If you want to get real tricky, cut the beam apart and up the spacing to the same as the spindle pin spacing. Same as using link pin amrs and spindles on a ball joint beam. In the old days this was called a parallel beam. It gets rid of the pro-dive geometry under braking.

Since the new beam is lacking towers, lean the shocks as far forward as possible. They should be hitting the beam on full droop. The only way to get actual good shock geometry is off the upper arm, but that's a lot of fabbing on a sand car frame.

I would also recommend and X brace for the front of the frame, they flex a lot.
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Good info. Thank you. Not going to be separating the beam and doing that much work at this time but noted on the shock placement. X brace (or some amount of reasonable triangulation) will def happen.
 
mobil1syn said:
this thing deservers a set of these

Fox Racing Shocks 2" Body 8" Stroke 5/8" Shaft Hose Remote Reservoir - Kartek Off-Road

Fox Racing Shocks 2" Body 8" Stroke 5/8" Shaft Hose Remote Reservoir for offroad racing in the King of the Hammers, New Zealand Taupo 1000, Dakar Rally, Tatts Finke Desert Race, Score International Baja 500 or Baja 1000, Mint 400, Vegas to Reno, Silk Way Rally, Crandon International, East...
www.kartek.com www.kartek.com
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Those are pretty. Was hard enough to pry open my wallet for front end parts, you think I'm ready to blow $1k on shocks? Gonna roll with the remote res Bilsteins I have for now. We'll see how it goes. It's fun listening to the rear ones right behind my head. :laughing:
 
mobil1syn said:
they need to be farther forward, like this feels wrong forward.
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They are where they are. :laughing::flipoff2:

They maybe could have went another 1" forward without contacting the arm but I ain't redoing them now.

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Got the turned beam swapped in after lunch. Holy sheet those arms are sketchy pointed almost straight down. Feels like they will flip backwards (frontwards) if I back up and the front tire hits a rock or something. Limit straps? Weld the horns back on the beam? Ignore it?
 
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Also, what oversized shocks necessitated such giant towers? I've seen shocks off the uppers with lower towers. :flipoff2:
 
I can mount the ridiculously oversized 9" shocks a bit compressed and more closely touching the beam if someone on the Internet gives me a good fucking reason to other than "do it like that". :laughing::flipoff2:

The ridiculously oversized hoops were because that's what I determined matched the lines and made it look the best. They give me the option of various coilover mounting solutions in the future if this thing sticks around and open up room for lighting mounting.

Fuck if I know. The shocks are in there pretty damn tight, 5 different friends put eyes on it before I welded it for permanents. I'm not racing this fucker, just hoping to bash it through a few thousand miles of BDR dirt roads.
 
Reason, bump it out and measure the angle between the arm and shock. It is going to be way over 90*. You have a falling rate for most of your bump travel.
 
Also, if your not getting full droop out of the P side because the tie rod is hitting the frame, move the steering box over to the center next to the adjusters. It will give you closer to equal amounts if travel per side. Once you get the steering box angle set, weld the mounting cap to the beam.
 
Limit straps or the shocks stop them form doing a 360. I did this on my glass car, had to move it real quick and it didn't have the front shocks on it. Backed up real quick, hit the brakes and all he'll broke loose. Bent both tierods, had to jack it up to get them to flip back around.
 
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