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bdkw1 said:
Reason, bump it out and measure the angle between the arm and shock. It is going to be way over 90*. You have a falling rate for most of your bump travel.
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at full extension the angle between arm and shock is 133*. It's nuts. At (estimated) full compression the angle is ~100* at best. Isn't that a ;;raising rate as under compression it is coming closer to 90*? I would think I want to mount them much further rearward to get as close to 90* during the cycle. I do NOT like the way the arms are pointed almost straight down. It looks broken.


bdkw1 said:
Also, if your not getting full droop out of the P side because the tie rod is hitting the frame, move the steering box over to the center next to the adjusters. It will give you closer to equal amounts if travel per side. Once you get the steering box angle set, weld the mounting cap to the beam.
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Noted. This thing has literally 0 down travel. Height on the jack, or height with the weight of it on it is within 1/4". This was the case with the old beam as well. seemed to ride ok but is very odd to me. The pass tie rod is damn close to hitting. I'll keep an eye on it. Thanks.


bdkw1 said:
Limit straps or the shocks stop them form doing a 360. I did this on my glass car, had to move it real quick and it didn't have the front shocks on it. Backed up real quick, hit the brakes and all he'll broke loose. Bent both tierods, had to jack it up to get them to flip back around.
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Ouch. Now i'm scared. Hadn't even thought about braking in reverse once I get the brakes on there. That will be bad. Will order some straps today.

Thanks again. Standing by for more clarification on shock angle now that I gave you some numbers. :beer:
 
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Red is the angle you want to measure. Once it goes over 90*, falling rate. Almost all buggies are like this. It is impossible to get 90* at full bump with the stock lower mount. You can drop the mount down below the arm centerline to help, Fodrill makes lower arms like that for just this reason. Lift spindles will allow you to maintain ride hieght without it being fully dropped out, they are for more than just extra ground clearance.
 
I can get 90* easy. but the shock will be close to horizontial. :laughing: Not "way forward" ilke everyone is telling me.?

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Go back and look at the picture again. I even found one to represent full bump. The blue lines are the ones you want to measure. From the top shock pivot to the lower pivot, to the beam pivot (blue lines). The angle on the front side of this (red line) is what you are measuring.
 
bdkw1 said:
Wait, are your arms not going past horizontal on bump?
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I highly doubt it but I guess its possible. I would be suprised if there is that much travel though. The arms ar WAY down at ride height Almost exactly like this \

Don't matter now. If it sucks ass then I guess I'll be back in here begging for more advice.

Thank you for all your help, even though I still aint getting it I guess. I'm going for a test drive. :beer:
 
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The arms should go to like 20* up at full bump. Your loosing out on travel. Pull the grub screws and cycle it for reals. Then you can see how much ground clearance you really have at full bump.
 
I went and bashed it through some ditches at 30mph. Cruised to lunch and picked up a keg.

Hard to tell but it does not appear that the arms go above 90 when hitting the ditch, close to it though. They might on a big landing or higher speed whoop. Rides pretty ok. I think actually softer than the stock shocks/arm orientation. It's used 5" of the available 8" compression travel on the shocks.


RE: losing out on travel. How so? I understand that if I went coilovers there would be more. But how am I losing travel with the stock leafs? they are gonna twist as much as they can, right?

I'm not too worried about lost travel as i'm currently happy with how it is working, but more is always better right? :grinpimp:

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