WaterH
Well-known member
I’ve seen pressure sensors leak after failure, but never a temp sensor. Changing it with your thumb over the hole works reasonable.
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A wolf in Jeeps clothing - Goatbuilt 1200 LJ/TJ Chassis build
- Thread starter Wisconsinite
- Start date
WaterH
Well-known member
Top of the housing not an option ?
That axle is sexy.
Bebop
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Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
Wouldn't you want the sensor in the oil?
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
Putting it in the top of the axle into the ring gear "sling" will work for sling temp readings but as soon as you stop and try to ascertain WTF is going on with said temps it will drop rapidly being in free air.
Don't hurt my feelings, I are not the MS CAD master...
I think this could be fabbed pretty easily with common hydraulic style NPT fittings or even use fancier flat face oring fittings for ease of assembly, leak proof etc.
Don't hurt my feelings, I are not the MS CAD master...
I think this could be fabbed pretty easily with common hydraulic style NPT fittings or even use fancier flat face oring fittings for ease of assembly, leak proof etc.
Bebop
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When the ring gear turns it'll sling oil to it.
You're not monitoring temps when crawling. Only matters in high speed (road and desert).
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
The top instead of pipe thread could be this style of flat face oring
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
He's not wrong, I think the wild oscillations in temp would bug me personally.
Bebop
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Digital dash.
Make a smoothing based on ground speed and time spent over/under a certain mph in order to mitigate the oscillations ?
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
Comments like this help me realize how much I have to learn about EFI and tuning.
I've seen temp sensors fail, but different applications. Mostly in steam/higher pressure systems with larger heat cycles/vibration loading. They tend to crack at the shoulder at the bottom of the threads where it's machined to the probe portion. I don't really think it's necessary to monitor to axle temps, just trying to give options for isolation/installation in the event of failure.
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
I think that's getting beyond what most of these digital dashes are capable of.
I have a AEM CD7 digital dash which is pretty high end and I'm sure you can't do that with it.
I'm digging this topic though. This is awesome. I have a total of 26 different channels I can monitor, along with everything on the GM canbus and 3 pages on the dash to do whatever I want.
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
The dash might not have that capability, but I would be surprised if the holley dominator and EFI program didn't.
Bebop
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Put the criteria in a 2D table inside a real ECU and you're golden.
You can also do more than 3 pages with the AEM dash.
Bebop
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gt1guy
Ok, just because I like an easy challenge and I'm familiar with DashDesign2
Here is how to create a diff temp channel that will only read when speed is above 30mph :
Step 1 : Create your raw diff sensor input channel
Step 2 : Create your speed based modifer
Step 3 : Create your modifed diff temp channel based off of both channels above
Obviously this is a straightforward and simplified operation but you can add other modifers to make it smoother and better. You can make it display a "Speed too low to display" text or the last valid data or whatever really.
Ok, just because I like an easy challenge and I'm familiar with DashDesign2
Here is how to create a diff temp channel that will only read when speed is above 30mph :
Step 1 : Create your raw diff sensor input channel
Step 2 : Create your speed based modifer
Step 3 : Create your modifed diff temp channel based off of both channels above
Obviously this is a straightforward and simplified operation but you can add other modifers to make it smoother and better. You can make it display a "Speed too low to display" text or the last valid data or whatever really.
Buncha nerds up in here. 
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
Fuckin A bringing the tech back to Irate4x4, not just bitching and moaning in 2022!gt1guy
Ok, just because I like an easy challenge and I'm familiar with DashDesign2
Here is how to create a diff temp channel that will only read when speed is above 30mph :
Step 1 : Create your raw diff sensor input channel
Step 2 : Create your speed based modifer
Step 3 : Create your modifed diff temp channel based off of both channels above
Obviously this is a straightforward and simplified operation but you can add other modifers to make it smoother and better. You can make it display a "Speed too low to display" text or the last valid data or whatever really.
Bebop
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Buncha nerds up in here.
Honestly, that's probably why the 90 day fiance deal didn't work out.
Nerding out on shit like this makes me way too happy for any female to understand
I'm trying, I'm trying.Fuckin A bringing the tech back to Irate4x4, not just bitching and moaning in 2022!
But I've been met with resistance when it comes to wiring and axle tech
chaplinfj60
Well-known member
this made me laugh out loud....I'm trying, I'm trying.
But I've been met with resistance when it comes to wiring and axle tech
gt1guy
Apparently a racist
gt1guy
Ok, just because I like an easy challenge and I'm familiar with DashDesign2
Here is how to create a diff temp channel that will only read when speed is above 30mph :
Step 1 : Create your raw diff sensor input channel
Step 2 : Create your speed based modifer
Step 3 : Create your modifed diff temp channel based off of both channels above
Obviously this is a straightforward and simplified operation but you can add other modifers to make it smoother and better. You can make it display a "Speed too low to display" text or the last valid data or whatever really.
I think I love you. Non-homo of course.
When I get to the electrical part of the build, I'm going to have a lot of questions.........if ya don't mind.
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
I will get one.
Bebop
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Depending on what the questions are, I don't mind at all.I think I love you. Non-homo of course.
When I get to the electrical part of the build, I'm going to have a lot of questions.........if ya don't mind.
Most of it I will freely share.
Some of it that took me a long time to design or figure I may keep.
No matter what, just ask away.
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
Made a little progress this weekend on the cooling system. I have two valves on the -10 bulkheads coming from the heater box. I was originally going to add a single valve to save a few bucks, but two buddies suggested I add two. They are operators/ heavy equipment mechanics and say most if not all pieces of heavy equipment have valves on both ports. I guess it helps with conductive heat transfer, and I have a feeling heat control will be an issue as is, I don't want to introduce another form of heat in the cab when it isn't needed.
The silver fitting is from the water pump (hot) and the blue fitting is to the water pump (cold).
I need to clamp the clamps once I am sure everything will work.
The silver fitting is from the water pump (hot) and the blue fitting is to the water pump (cold).
I need to clamp the clamps once I am sure everything will work.
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
Any chance you flip those valves around and insert the bulkhead into your heater box and lose the bulkheads already in the heater box? It might clean that area up and short those fittings into the box.Made a little progress this weekend on the cooling system. I have two valves on the -10 bulkheads coming from the heater box. I was originally going to add a single valve to save a few bucks, but two buddies suggested I add two. They are operators/ heavy equipment mechanics and say most if not all pieces of heavy equipment have valves on both ports. I guess it helps with conductive heat transfer, and I have a feeling heat control will be an issue as is, I don't want to introduce another form of heat in the cab when it isn't needed.
The silver fitting is from the water pump (hot) and the blue fitting is to the water pump (cold).
I need to clamp the clamps once I am sure everything will work.
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
I thought about doing that, but then the install and removal of the heater box would be more difficult. Right now, the whole assembly slides in and is fastened with studs going through the firewall. The valve handle would stop me from pulling the box straight out. I agree though, it would clean that area up a little bit. I will take some clutterery fittings in lou of complicating assembly.
Upon installation or removal, I don't have to mess with any hose fittings under the dash, only in the engine bay.
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
I knew you would have planned it out just thought I'd mention it.I thought about doing that, but then the install and removal of the heater box would be more difficult. Right now, the whole assembly slides in and is fastened with studs going through the firewall. The valve handle would stop me from pulling the box straight out. I agree though, it would clean that area up a little bit. I will take some clutterery fittings in lou of complicating assembly.
Upon installation or removal, I don't have to mess with any hose fittings under the dash, only in the engine bay.
The real concern for failure is the weight hanging on those female swivels of the valves, or accidentally "pushing" them and breaking it off.
The latter probably doesn't matter as it could just be closed and the leak stopped.
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
I was thinking about making a mount that captured the valves and secure them with a bulkhead nut, but thought that was over kill. Now your comment has me rethinking that. It wouldn't be hard to make a little bracket. Thanks for the input.
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I'd make a support bracket for the valves like CarterKraft suggested. Better safe than sorry with things like that.
Wisconsinite
Red Skull Member
That is doable for sure. I will work on that sometime this week. Thanks for the input.
This forum is so kickass. Hopefully one day I'll get to have some beers with everyone who helped this build along (you folks will have to buy the beer though, I am broke af
)