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A wolf in Jeeps clothing - Goatbuilt 1200 LJ/TJ Chassis build

I get your point. What if it runs 290 all the time, but today its at 330? that would be an indication it something was going on.

It isn't necessary, but that doesn't mean I don't want it. I have a fancy PCM and fancy dash, I want to use all the features. I know I can be a :homer:, I live with myself every day. Haha.
I agree with you. A sudden rise (or drop) could indicate a problem. I’m not saying I agree enough to install one in my T-case, but the idea is sound. BTW, the site glass is cool.
 
May as well throw a power steering fluid temp sensor in along with F&R diff fluid temp sensors. You never know what you are going to miss without those. Do we have any room left for a window washer fluid temp sensor? :lmao:








:flipoff2:
 
I recently added a temp sending unit to my power steering resi, I use the same sender for my transmission fluid temp, and want to add the same part to the atlas tcase. I know it may not be the most accurate way to monitor fluid temp, but could I add this fitting to the sight tube lower fitting? Thread in my 1/8 npt temp sensor and viola! T-case temp moitoring?

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May as well throw a power steering fluid temp sensor in along with F&R diff fluid temp sensors. You never know what you are going to miss without those. Do we have any room left for a window washer fluid temp sensor? :lmao:








:flipoff2:
:laughing:
 
May as well throw a power steering fluid temp sensor in along with F&R diff fluid temp sensors. You never know what you are going to miss without those. Do we have any room left for a window washer fluid temp sensor? :lmao:

diff temps are fairly common in high end race cars, including u4.
 
I doubt they stop racing when the temps go up?
Yeah, but at least you know something is wrong and you can nurse it along, vs keep sending it and DNF...

I recently added a temp sending unit to my power steering resi, I use the same sender for my transmission fluid temp, and want to add the same part to the atlas tcase. I know it may not be the most accurate way to monitor fluid temp, but could I add this fitting to the sight tube lower fitting? Thread in my 1/8 npt temp sensor and viola! T-case temp moitoring?

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You need to put the temp sender in a spot which gets flow through it. IE the middle of the case.
Drop the pan on the atlas, pull the cross pin and the idler shaft / gears if you need, stuff a rag in it and drill / tap.

You could also call AA and ask what the recommended location for a temp sender is and the average temps to expect.

I have no experience with and Atlas, but I can tell you that the temps under race use in an SCS are insane.
 
Got a little time in the shop last night, and got some small odds and ends wrapped up.

Welded some beads on the intake tubing, and welded a bung for the air intake temp sensor.
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Welded a bung on the expansion tank to mount the overflow tube.

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Welded the bung to mount the washer pump to the resi.

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and per SLOWPOKE693 reccomendation, I added a bung to the washer tank so I could monitor my windshield washer temp. I figure if the pump is about to fail, it will heat up the fluid and I will notice that on my dash. Should save a lot of headaches down the road. installed a nice little AEM sensor with a 2 pin deutsch DTM connector.

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Good job on the edge welds, they are a biatch to make.




and per SLOWPOKE693 reccomendation, I added a bung to the washer tank so I could monitor my windshield washer temp. I figure if the pump is about to fail, it will heat up the fluid and I will notice that on my dash. Should save a lot of headaches down the road. installed a nice little AEM sensor with a 2 pin deutsch DTM connector.

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Bwhahahahahahahaha that's legendary !
Making full use of that Dominator :laughing::lmao:
 
I doubt they stop racing when the temps go up?

Yeah, but at least you know something is wrong and you can nurse it along, vs keep sending it and DNF...

depends on the level, there is an echelon of racers who are there to WIN, beyond that is a failure. i see a high diff temp to be a indicator there is a leak, allowing you to communicate to the pit so they can be prepared to handle things. bryce lost v2r because he was on toyos ... errr i mean he got two flats. that is how close the competition is.

in u4 i know lasernut and genright run diff temps on their cars, but theyre FIS so there is nothing hanging down to get ripped out. the top 10 in u4 arent stopping if the diff temp is high, theyre going to take their chances for the win.

Wisconsinite - just remember every sensor you add needs to be wired and routed.
 
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Wisconsinite - just remember every sensor you add needs to be wired and routed.

Agreed. But I will have wires coming from the rear diff to the center console for the Wilwood push button parking brake. I figure if I am going to do something like add a sensor, now is the time to do it. Please note: I know it is unnecessary. I know it is more work for little gains.
 
Agreed. But I will have wires coming from the rear diff to the center console for the Wilwood push button parking brake.

Different harness. I don't suggest mixing your chassis and sensor harnesses.
So it won't change anything really.

If you want to monitor your diff temp, go right ahead, I love data and think that sensor overload is cool.
 
Agreed. But I will have wires coming from the rear diff to the center console for the Wilwood push button parking brake. I figure if I am going to do something like add a sensor, now is the time to do it. Please note: I know it is unnecessary. I know it is more work for little gains.

your harness is going to take some serious planning and money to match the quality of the build, so was just saying it out loud as a reminder.

coming from controls world, engineers start adding transmitters all over the place then get all pissy when there is conduit everywhere, the plc cabinet is 3 times the size they planned for and your 400% over budget.
 
your harness is going to take some serious planning and money to match the quality of the build, so was just saying it out loud as a reminder.

coming from controls world, engineers start adding transmitters all over the place then get all pissy when there is conduit everywhere, the plc cabinet is 3 times the size they planned for and your 400% over budget.
Appreciate the input. There will be a lot of learning, that is for sure.
 
your harness is going to take some serious planning and money to match the quality of the build, so was just saying it out loud as a reminder.

coming from controls world, engineers start adding transmitters all over the place then get all pissy when there is conduit everywhere, the plc cabinet is 3 times the size they planned for and your 400% over budget.
agreed 10x
I told him again today.

But it would be bitching if he does it :smokin:
 
your harness is going to take some serious planning and money to match the quality of the build, so was just saying it out loud as a reminder.

coming from controls world, engineers start adding transmitters all over the place then get all pissy when there is conduit everywhere, the plc cabinet is 3 times the size they planned for and your 400% over budget.

agreed 10x
I told him again today.

But it would be bitching if he does it :smokin:
Don't worry fellas. Wiring supplies en route! Got a metric shit ton of em :smokin:

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and picked these up at a garage sale, #winning. Just need some wire nuts, zip ties, and harbor freight electrical tape.

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And don't tempt me on the diff fluid temp sensors. That isn't out of the realm of possibility at this point.
Not to open a can of worms but I would have considered adding diff sensors before ever considering the tcase. Haha
 
Not to open a can of worms but I would have considered adding diff sensors before ever considering the tcase. Haha
I am exploring the option of doing that this weekend. I am trying to find examles of the sensor locations that wont get damaged the first time I flex out on a curb, or look really dumn.
 
I am exploring the option of doing that this weekend. I am trying to find examles of the sensor locations that wont get damaged the first time I flex out on a curb, or look really dumn.

simple … add a pump and cooler. monitor inf/eff and based on temp turn the cooler fan on/off. gets the temp sensors up out of the way. blackdoublwfangers
 
I don't know if I'd ever have the time or patience to do what you're doing BUT I love the idea and why not, now's the time to do it. At this point with how far you are and how good everything looks it's all just icing on the cake from here out. You spent all the cash on the Holley might as well max it out.

Just to make you feel like you're not wasting your time here, a guy I wheel with went all out sensor/preventive maintenance on his rig and it's at least saved him a diff rebuild and possibly saved his freshly fully built 6.0. Not sure what caused the diff temp to rise but a few adjustments and he was back to normal temps. The sensors let him know he was pumping hot coolant from the rear mounted radiator to the engine. Here his exhaust was heating up the engine feed side tube on his chassis so some quick rerouting to flip sides and all is well. So I don't think you're wasting your time here. A few hours now could potentially save you a lot of time and money down the road.

So carry on! Everything is looking sweet!
 
Drew up a mount for the heater box and had my buddy plas cut it. It was originally designed with flanges on both sides, turns out the bolt pattern was a little wide and wouldn't fit on the firewall panel. I cut the flange off and moved the passenger side studs inboard. The nut plate turned out sweet and works like a charm. To remove the heater box is two fittings, two bulkhead nuts, and four 3/8 nuts. Should be pretty simple to service if the need arises. I am planning on 3d printing some defrost vents and maybe get some directional vents to hit the driver and passenger. I haven't decided if I am going to run only defrost ducts to simplify things.

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On my build I had defrost and floor board vents. (All devided equal) The first time I used it, it cracked the windshield. Now I’m scared to turn it on. Lucky I live in Florida. I would say you want the driver/pax vents.

Nice mount BTW.
 
On my build I had defrost and floor board vents. (All devided equal) The first time I used it, it cracked the windshield. Now I’m scared to turn it on. Lucky I live in Florida. I would say you want the driver/pax vents.

Nice mount BTW.

Your windshield cracked from using the defrost? Do you have a picture of your defrost vent? Did it concentrate all the heat on one area?
 
According to the heater box mfg, heaters have no bias in hose connection. I was thinking since the heater core is pretty high in the system, that the bottom would be in front water pump, and the top would be out to water pump. Any input?

I am also planning on installing a ball valve and being able to stop the flow completely.

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