A wolf in Jeeps clothing - Goatbuilt 1200 LJ/TJ Chassis build

[Wuz-A-zuk]

Because they are too small. The terminals and internals won't take the inrush very long and you'll burn them.

Doesn't the busted knuckle one you linked do exactly that though? Or am I missing something/read something wrong..

 

[Bebop]

NOW YOU TELL ME!

You didn't ask and started pulling the trigger buying a bunch of shit right away! LMFAO

Planning phase should take at least 1/3rd of the total time spent on the wiring system.

You're starting by the end.

Doesn't the busted knuckle one you linked do exactly that though? Or am I missing something/read something wrong..

I never said to wire big fans through the BK product.

 

[chaplinfj60]

NOW YOU TELL ME!

all i got is

 

[Wisconsinite]

With your logic you're already burning 3 for trans cooler, 2 for engine fans, 1 for fuel pump.
Now you only have 2 relays left for the rest of the car. Meh.


You didn't say it was a bad idea though. lol

 

[WaterH]

Why is that?

Because you can’t plug one of these in there. (100 amps)

 

[Wisconsinite]

^ Yeah, I am figuring that out.

 

[Satan's_Minion]

Why is that?

They just don't have large enough contacts or contact pressure. The make/break arcing from the fan load is destructive. Mini fuses have a faster time delay due to lower mass so you need to have a larger fuse value than ATO/MAXI/MIDI

Also in those sizes you nest a higher quantity of contacts that are Metri-Pack 280 sized and temp rise at that current draw will be approaching 50 degrees with 12 awg. You don't have the cooling of a single wire/wire connector. This also leads to higher thermal de-rate on the fuses.

 

[Wisconsinite]

Sound like ^this guy knows his stuff.

 

[HYDRODYNAMIC]

Here is what I run for fans. I use the factory pigtail on the Spal and match it whatever version it is. Kartek usually has them in stock. For relays I use 75A screw terminals on the power and 1/4" blade on the coil. The relay is plentiful and over rated for my needs and they are all the same. One of these was a spare already in the panel in case one was to fail. Just swap over the wires and go.
Yes the engine harness fuse box right next to it has mini relays that fire the larger 75A relays but who cares. They will live a cush life with no stress.
My old cooling system ran like clockwork. My new cooling system with brushless tech should only run that much smoother and quieter.

 

[Wisconsinite]

Do you ever do something so dumb you wonder how you made it this far in life? Spoiler alert, I have, yesterday.

One of the projects I have been draggin my feet on was finishing up the mounting of the door surrounds. Not a very difficult task, but for some reason I was dreading it. I decided to knock that out yesterday, and pulled a pretty bone head move.

I started by making some 5/8 OD bungs threaded for 5/16-18. Next I fit the surrounds, marked the holes, and drilled them to 5/8. Then I was getting ready to fit the bungs and weld them in when I had this brilliant idea, screw a bolt in the threads so that in the off chance I drop it, the bolt will be long enough to stop the bung falling in the tube and I won't have to spend nearly two hours figuring out how to get it back out........ Can you sense some foreshadowing?

I grabbed the first 5/16 bolt I saw, and it happened to be a stainless flat head bolt about 1.25" long. Threaded that puppy in, fit the driver side rear bung, welded it in, and was feeling pretty good. Then I did the next one....... the driver side front bung, right on the bend for the a pillar.......

Yup. You guessed it. I dropped that bitch and she slid all the way down to the rocker tube. And guess what, that bolt I put in there, the STAINLESS STEEL NON MAGNETIC BOLT, it just sucked. I taped two pieces of tig wire together, taped on a magnet, and got to fishing. The very first attempt I got it lifted to hole, just to hear it slide all the way back down. I did this for almost two hours. I was almost ready to cut a hole in the a pillar, retrieve the bolt and bung, weld the hole closed, and go about my day. Every time I would lose my cool and get the drill out, I would give it a few more tries. I finally got it, man, that was a great feeling, until I realized I just wasted two hours..... But in the end, the door surrounds are mounted and I am very happy with the door gap.

 

[Wisconsinite]

I picked up a set of ICT billet coil mounts, and installed them, but was having interference with the rear most plug wire and tunnel/firewall. Whipped up some new coil brackets out of 1/4" 6061. I don't love threading into thin aluminum, I was only able to get one bolt dia of threads, so I decided to use some bolts as studs, and nuts/washers to secure the coils. Not the prettiest things in the world, but they work and are installed.

 

[Wisconsinite]

Last night before bed I made the hardline that goes from the radiator to expansion tank. Besides plumbing in the heater core, the coolant system is done!

 

[HYDRODYNAMIC]

I would have guessed that the SS bolt seized after welding. SS will seize just looking at it the wrong way. Should have had a fender washer on the end of the bolt before dropping it in. Mental note recorded, this will save someone from doing the same so thanks for sharing.
The aluminum coil mounts look cool as well as the hardline

 

[Wisconsinite]

I would have guessed that the SS bolt seized after welding. SS will seize just looking at it the wrong way. Should have had a fender washer on the end of the bolt before dropping it in. Mental note recorded, this will save someone from doing the same so thanks for sharing.
The aluminum coil mounts look cool as well as the hardline

I used the bolt for alignment during tacking only. I would get one tack on the bung, use the bolt to tweak the bung and get it plumb, add another little tack, and then remove the bolt. Glad that job was done.

Question for the audience, would you keep the aluminum coil mounts "solid" or add some windows? I figured if I left it solid it could act as a heat sink?

 

[Wisconsinite]

I installed a Motion Raceworks steam port kit. Worked really well, and uses fragola fittings and hoses. I need to measure and order a -4 line from the manifold to the expansion tank.

I am somewhat concered that the exhaust will be too loud. In an effort to take some of the harshness/crackle/popping of true duals, I added a H pipe. This took way longer than anticipated. But it's done!!

I took a high quality t bolt clamp and drilled a few holes in it. This held the tube joint tightly while I tacked it. 10/10 would reccomend.

 

[Wisconsinite]

My welder buddy swung by and laid some dimes. He welded out most of the H-pipe, I fit, tack, and prep, he burns it in. I could do it, but if he will do this quality of work for free, I am going to take advantage.

 

[mobil1syn]

that clamp trick is genius.

 

[Wisconsinite]

that clamp trick is genius.

It worked so well. I was even able to hold it tight enough for mocking up. You have to improvise when working by yourself!

 

[Bebop]

I used the bolt for alignment during tacking only. I would get one tack on the bung, use the bolt to tweak the bung and get it plumb, add another little tack, and then remove the bolt. Glad that job was done.

Question for the audience, would you keep the aluminum coil mounts "solid" or add some windows? I figured if I left it solid it could act as a heat sink?

Add holes so you can remove the valve covers without removing the coils. If you can.

The factory coil brackets are great, I don't see the need to reinvent the wheel. Outside of the fact yours look bitchin.

 

[Wisconsinite]

Add holes so you can remove the valve covers without removing the coils. If you can.

The factory coil brackets are great, I don't see the need to reinvent the wheel. Outside of the fact yours look bitchin.

Drilling access holes is a good idea, I will check and see if that would work.

I didn't have "factory" coil mounts, this was a crate engine. And most aftermarket coil mounts wouldn't work in this application, the rear plug wire interfered with the firewall. I needed to raise the rear coil to "pull" on the plug wire and keep it close to the engine centerline.

https://photos.google.com/photo/AF1QipMdNRre27zpEQM79sYgNv4zdGvgDQAJwtoerHr4

 

[WaterH]

I took a high quality t bolt clamp and drilled a few holes in it. This held the tube joint tightly while I tacked it. 10/10 would reccomend.

I did something similar to this where I put two clamps with a few pieces of sheet metal between them. Worked well but not near as cool as this. Bravo!

 

[Im4yotas]

It worked so well. I was even able to hold it tight enough for mocking up. You have to improvise when working by yourself!

I welded for a high budget aerospace company for a couple years, and this was the best way we found to tack tubing together. You can scribe alignment marks when it is mocked up on the vehicle, then bring it to the table and reassemble with the little windows around the scribe. Works great when purging the back side with argon, too.

 

[Wisconsinite]

I recently added a temp sending unit to my power steering resi, I use the same sender for my transmission fluid temp, and want to add the same part to the atlas tcase. I know it may not be the most accurate way to monitor fluid temp, but could I add this fitting to the sight tube lower fitting? Thread in my 1/8 npt temp sensor and viola! T-case temp moitoring?

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

Why not drill and tap the case?

 

[mobil1syn]

T-case temp moitoring?

why?

 

[Wisconsinite]

Why not drill and tap the case?

Because I don't want a temp sensor that bad. Lol.

 

[Wisconsinite]

why?

Why not? Seems like it could be an interesting data point.

 

[mobil1syn]

Why not? Seems like it could be an interesting data point.

just put stickers on things

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[SLOWPOKE693]

Why not? Seems like it could be an interesting data point.

Intresting but useless. What if you see temps in the 290s or whatever while highway driving? I bet you freak out and think there is a problem when in reality that may just be how hot they all run, but your the o ly guy with a gauge so you have no comparison so you freak out, disassemble the case and check everything inside the case and find no problem. You will then make 50 calls to AA because your thinking my case must be bad, it runs "hot" and AA will say it's OK but you will argue because the temp gauge says it is. Then what, add a pump and cooler to cure the problem you don't have?

I see no good coming from knowing the temp of the T-case fluid.

 

[Wisconsinite]

Intresting but useless. What if you see temps in the 290s or whatever while highway driving? I bet you freak out and think there is a problem when in reality that may just be how hot they all run, but your the o ly guy with a gauge so you have no comparison so you freak out, disassemble the case and check everything inside the case and find no problem. You will then make 50 calls to AA because your thinking my case must be bad, it runs "hot" and AA will say it's OK but you will argue because the temp gauge says it is. Then what, add a pump and cooler to cure the problem you don't have?

I see no good coming from knowing the temp of the T-case fluid.

I get your point. What if it runs 290 all the time, but today its at 330? that would be an indication it something was going on.

It isn't necessary, but that doesn't mean I don't want it. I have a fancy PCM and fancy dash, I want to use all the features. I know I can be a , I live with myself every day. Haha.