A wolf in Jeeps clothing - Goatbuilt 1200 LJ/TJ Chassis build

[Wisconsinite]

^ that is kinda what I was thinking, but thought I would get some more input.

 

[HYDRODYNAMIC]

Engine oil cooler, plumbing, fan, and wiring are more headaches to build and maintain. If you are not racing with full throttle for extended periods of time to heat the oil then don't add the headaches.

 

[Wisconsinite]

I have been slacking on this project... Between weddings, getting covid, and other summer activities, I haven't made much progress.

I made an expansion tank:
3 X 3 X .125 aluminum tubing
Standard radiator cap
1/8 NPT port for steam ports
1/8 NPT port for rad overflow
-10AN fitting for hose coming from lower rad hose

I added a 20oz windshield washer reservoir from chase bays. I was going to build one, and started sourcing materials, fittings, caps, bungs, and pumps. I decided to buy this one and be done with it.

I installed a mightymouse 3.5" XL catch can to handle the engine venting/pcv duties. I will not be using it in the typical PCV setup, it will not send the vented gas/oil mist back into the intake, but will vent to atmosphere. I used some spare shock resi mounting tabs I had to mount the catch can. I opened them up to accept the 3.5" body and burned em in.

I have the rest of the fittings/hoses/adapters on order to handle pretty much the rest of the plumbing. One step at a time!

 

[chaplinfj60]

very nice very nice

 

[Bebop]

You have both air ports venting to the can ?

 

[Wisconsinite]

You have both air ports venting to the can ?

I have the steam ports venting to the can, and a -4 line from the rad. Talking to Hydrodynamic, and thinking about it more, I don't think there is enough vertical seperation between the ports on the tank, and it might intodruce air into the lower hose via the -10 hose. I think I will convert it to my washer fluid tank, and build a new expansion tank. The new one will be much cleaner overall, and hold roughly the same volume.

 

[Bebop]

I was asking about the catch can.

But I agree about the expansion tank.

 

[Wisconsinite]

I was asking about the catch can.

But I agree about the expansion tank.

Gotcha. Yes, both ports are going to the catch can via -6 lines, and then I will have a -8 venting to atmosphere, and then I will cap the port on the manifold. That should be good to go?

 

[Bebop]

If you start pushing oil through the rear main, upgrade the lines to bigger.

 

[Wisconsinite]

Expansion tank V2 is fit and welded, this verison has more vertical seperation between the inlet and outlet. I need to install that, and will convert expansion tank V1 to my windshield washer resi.

I wanted to convert the waterpump to AN ,that required removing the press in hose barbs. I planned on welding a nut to the bards, and use a slide hammer to pull them out. I didn't have a slide hammer, but had a whole rack of drops and random material. Enter the SSSH, stainless steel slide hammer.

Popped the buggers out EZPZ, and welded in some -10 bungs.

I also got the fuel sending unit pretty much finished. I modified a Novak fuel pressure regulator delete fitting to work with my application. I turned the thickness down ~.300, and drilled/tapped the bottom to 1/8 NPT.

I added a bulkhead for the return, and will have it return to the can, similar to a GM LS truck pump.

 

[Wuz-A-zuk]

Looking good, almost there, keep moving!!

Been following this since the beginning, have to give you props on your aluminum Tig progression. Nice rig man.

 

[Wisconsinite]

FINALLY getting back on this thing. I have some small projects that I want to knock out this weekend, and could use a little input.

First order of business - installing the air temp sensor in my intake tube. I think the option closest to the throttle body would give the most accurate reading?

Option 1

Option 2

Next project is install a temp sensor in the trans oil pan. It is a FMRVB 4L80. Is there a "best" spot for it? I was going to fit the bung on the passenger side near the front?

Lastly, I would like to get the expansion tank mounted. The clearance is tight, and I am having trouble coming up with an elegant way to mount it. I was thinking about fitting a piece of 1.00 x .065 tubing from the frame rail to the shock tower, and use modified shock resi mounts and hose clamps. I used this method to mount the catch can, and it worked pretty well. However, if the catch can falls off, it won't drain all my coolant. Haha.

Pic of catch can for reference.

Catch can in question:

 

[mobil1syn]

trans temp in the pan, thats whats feeding the trans and what matters.

 

[Wisconsinite]

trans temp in the pan, thats whats feeding the trans and what matters.

Yeah, I guess I wasn't clear. I have a 1/8npt bung, and will be welding that to the pan. I didn't know if there was an ideal location on the pan for the sensor to live.

 

[Bebop]

For both AIT and Trans temp, the location won't matter

 

[Wisconsinite]

Next for the next question; I am trying to mentally gameplan the wiring before I start making a schematic/drawing. I know there are a few components that will draw over 25amps, so I went on the hunt for connectors. I found Deutsch connectors DTHD line, single wire connector that is good for 60 amps. I picked up a few of those to play around with (my bank account was approaching four digits, and I can't let that happen.......)

DTHD connectors rated at 60amps, but my crimp tool won't accept this size connector. I called the supplier, and he said most non-pros solder the contacts to the wire. I am going to try it with a few and see what happens. Please note, I am not trying to start a debate on the pros/cons of crimping vs. soldering for automotive use. I already paid an arm and a leg for the regular crimper, I am not trying to spend $500+ for a crimper that I can only use on high amp circuits.

These contacts are nickle plated, any tips on solder to use or just good ol' 60/40?

 

[Wuz-A-zuk]

Your air intake sensor location may not matter much now but if you're planning on any type of forced induction I'd put in a spot for that now instead of having to move it later. Makes for an easier tune as well being in an accurate spot to get a good read on the temps into the motor. I've seen AIT sensors mounted on the intake manifold main runner as well.

 

[Wisconsinite]

Your air intake sensor location may not matter much now but if you're planning on any type of forced induction I'd put in a spot for that now instead of having to move it later. Makes for an easier tune as well being in an accurate spot to get a good read on the temps into the motor. I've seen AIT sensors mounted on the intake manifold main runner as well.

That is a good thought, but I am a ways from needing more power. I need to get it running before I worry about that, but future proofing is always a good idea.


I get down on myself for not getting this thing done sooner. KOH 2020 was the last time this thing has all four wheels and tires on it :(

I have nothing on my calendar for the next three months. Hopefully I will have a metric shit ton of progress to update this thread with!

Thanks for tuning in!

 

[Wuz-A-zuk]

Just thought I'd mention it as you've mentioned FI before in this thread.

Don't get too down about it you've made good progress early on but sometimes life just happens, you got 3 months to get a bunch done/play catch up Haha. Hell at least it's a roller, I'm about to change my forum name to "Captain Jackstands". I just tacked together that subframe I bought from you guys ummm 8 months or so ago.

I'm tuned in an will be looking forward to some updates! Carry on, looking good!

 

[Wisconsinite]

^ Thank you! I am excited to get back on it. I have most of the parts/supplies to finish the stupid thing, and now I have the time. I have no excuses now.

 

[Wisconsinite]

Man, it felt good to get back in the shop this weekend! I joined the FLNC and got the shop all cleaned up and back in order. I didn't get as much done as I wanted, but hey, progress is progress.

I got the second (spare) water pump machined and fitted with -10 AN bungs. I am using a 2010+ camaro LS3 water pump (2010+ camaro LS3 engines have the same belt spacing as truck engines) and the belt tensioner sits really high, and blocks my intake tube routing. I came up with a .25" thick bracket that allows me to clock the tensioner down and frees up a bunch of space for my intake. In order to use the bracket, I needed to mill .25" off the mounting lugs for the tensioner. I know its kinda , but I had some left over engine paint, and decided to paint the waterpump while I was at it.

Standard LS3 tensioner position:

Clocked tensioner positon (the .25" bracket is still on the waterpump that's on the engine).

I modified my V1.0 expansion tank to accept a acdelco washer pump and grommet. Simple enough, cut off the -10 AN bung, and open up the hole to accept the grommet. I turned a little AL bung that will weld to the reservoir and mount the pump with a p-clamp.

With expansion tank V1 sorted, I needed to mount V2. I made this little bolt on bracket out of 1/8" mild steel and some .158" domex bolt tabs. I could have made the bracket weld on, but decided to make it bolt on in the hopes that pulling the engine will be easier without a bunch of welded brackets sticking out into the engine bay.

-10 AN line from tank to lower rad hose.

 

[Bebop]

Next for the next question; I am trying to mentally gameplan the wiring before I start making a schematic/drawing. I know there are a few components that will draw over 25amps, so I went on the hunt for connectors. I found Deutsch connectors DTHD line, single wire connector that is good for 60 amps. I picked up a few of those to play around with (my bank account was approaching four digits, and I can't let that happen.......)

DTHD connectors rated at 60amps, but my crimp tool won't accept this size connector. I called the supplier, and he said most non-pros solder the contacts to the wire. I am going to try it with a few and see what happens. Please note, I am not trying to start a debate on the pros/cons of crimping vs. soldering for automotive use. I already paid an arm and a leg for the regular crimper, I am not trying to spend $500+ for a crimper that I can only use on high amp circuits.

These contacts are nickle plated, any tips on solder to use or just good ol' 60/40?

Ditch this and get you some metripack630

https://www.amazon.com/Delphi-Metri-Pack-Waterproof-Connector-Terminals/dp/B07DYTZPJ5/ref=pd_lpo_1?pd_rd_i=B07DYTZPJ5&psc=1

 

[Wisconsinite]

Ditch this and get you some metripack630

The metripack seem like a good option. The fans are rated @ 44 amps, and these connectors are rated @ 46 amps. Is that enough safety factor?

 

[Bebop]

Yeah.

They also have a safety factor built in them.

 

[Wisconsinite]

Cool. They are a hell of a lot cheaper too!

Thanks for the info!

 

[Wisconsinite]

Ditch this and get you some metripack630

I have six connectors en route. 2 for the rad fans, and some spares. Thanks for the info

 

[Satan's_Minion]

The metripack seem like a good option. The fans are rated @ 44 amps, and these connectors are rated @ 46 amps. Is that enough safety factor?

Are you saying both fans together? Those fans should be in the 20 amps range. You can use DTP connectors on them.

Also I would say the opposite of Delphi connectors, their top line specs are at best case. At temperature they will be de-rated. Deutsch does not, they only spec the current carrying @ maximum temperature, 125C

 

[Wisconsinite]

Are you saying both fans together? Those fans should be in the 20 amps range. You can use DTP connectors on them.

Also I would say the opposite of Delphi connectors, their top line specs are at best case. At temperature they will be de-rated. Deutsch does not, they only spec the current carrying @ maximum temperature, 125C

I was wrong, they need to be fused @ 40 amps per spal, and have an amp draw of 25 amps per fan. I didn't think a connector operating at max amp rating was a good thing. That is why I initally went the DTHD route. The Metripack has enough saftey factor for me to be comfortable.

RADFAN1	SPAL AV13-AP70/LL-63A 30102044	DRIVER SIDE COOLING FAN 1
AMP DRAW	25	NOTES: FUSED FOR 40A@12V?
WIRE SIZE	10 AWG
CONNECTOR	DTP
PIN COUNT	2
OTHER
LOCATION	PIN	CONDUCTOR	DESTINATION
1		10AWG RED
2		10AWG BLACK

 

[WaterH]

I’ve just been going through troubles with Spal fans. I have two fans that I measured 22 amps running. (Each) I ran them (both) off a 75 amp relay. They were too much for that relay. So I’m guessing the start up draw must exceed 37 amps each. You might be Ok with a connector rated for 40 because that would only be for a few seconds.

 

[Bebop]

I’ve just been going through troubles with Spal fans. I have two fans that I measured 22 amps running. (Each) I ran them (both) off a 75 amp relay. They were too much for that relay. So I’m guessing the start up draw must exceed 37 amps each. You might be Ok with a connector rated for 40 because that would only be for a few seconds.

This is not how you wire fans.
Do it right and you won't have problems.

SPALs are probably the finest consumer grade fans you can get. I've wired countless cars and have never ever had an issue when using a SPAL fan that was properly sized for the application and wired correctly. Never.