A wolf in Jeeps clothing - Goatbuilt 1200 LJ/TJ Chassis build

[Wisconsinite]

A TVS2300 with a jackshaft like the one on my car would probably fit right under there. I stopped listening to the voice of reason a long time ago, like you did.

Maybe we can discuss that over a can of cold delicious?

 

[Wisconsinite]

The steering resi I have mocked up is the one we use in the shop for mock up, so I haven't purchased one yet. I have the height to use the resi with the spin on filter, that's a good idea, right? Does anyone know if they have the block drilled and tapped for 5/16 bolts? I haven't been able to find a good picture.

EDIT: Decided to run what I had mocked up.

 

[realsquash]

Maybe we can discuss that over a can of cold delicious?

You bet - shoot me a PM sometime.

 

[Wisconsinite]

pm sent

 

[Wisconsinite]

Alright, was able to get some more work done on the plumbing. All lines are ran and hooked up! I ran into a little snafu when I went to mount my PSC ASV valve. The valve holds ~7psi in the reservoir to help with cavitation.

My issue is that I mounted the reservoir as high as practical in the engine bay. The 1/8NPT fitting on the cap is ~1.5 fingers away from the hood. When I was attempting to mount the ASV valve, there is no location in the engine bay that I can mount it heigher than the reservoir with out going through the hood.....

I shot a text to hydrodynamic, and he said I could install the ASV valve on a catch can, and then it wouldn't be an issue to mount it lower than the resi cap.

If that is the best plan of attack, I am going to follow what Hydrodynamic said and roll with it.

This is the last thing left to do before I can mark steering off the list!!!!

 

[Wisconsinite]

This is from the psc website...

 

[Bebop]

Mine wasn't happy being placed like that picture.

 

[Wisconsinite]

Mine wasn't happy being placed like that picture.

Puking out fluid?

 

[JohnnyJ]

My resi sticks thru the hood, so I just put ASV below it. I’m probably wrong. Maybe I’ll change it. Lol

 

[Wisconsinite]

I am 99% sure I am going to do what Hydrodynamic recommended and use a catch can with the ASV on the top. I am thinking I can mount it to the reservoir mount tube.

I am going to figure out a better solution than zip ties for the hose spring. This keeps the hoses out of the firewall at full bump.

 

[Bebop]

Puking out fluid?

Yep. Basically fluid wouldn't return back to the resi.
Which makes sense when you think about it.

I ended putting it direct on the cap, but that doesn't work for you.

 

[Wisconsinite]

I made some parts for the vented catch can tonight after work. Knocked the mounting tab off the vent, and used some 7075 bar stock to make an adapter sleeve that I will weld in.

The bottom threaded bung was cut from the same 7075 bar stock. I drilled, reamed, and tapped the bung for 1/8" NPT. I am thinking I will use the same tubing I use for my air lockers to plumb it to the resi cap.

I have a few extra shock reservoir mounts, the stamped steel ones. I will weld those to the post that supports the steering resi.

 

[Wisconsinite]

^ Bet that will weld nice

 

[HYDRODYNAMIC]

To help explain what I was suggesting by low mounting the PSC breather with a catch can / overflow tank. Steering reservoirs can use the same overflow methods as a cooling system. Another benefit to this method is if you have a balanced cylinder and the system is purged of air you can top off the reservoir so there is no air in the reservoir. The air will be more likely to stay in the overflow tank than work its way into the reservoir. You will need a large enough flow path from the reservoir to catch can if you are flowing oil vs air with a single ended cylinder.
I think the problem with mounting the PSC breather low is that it does not have capacity to hold the thermal expansion volume of oil.

 

[HYDRODYNAMIC]

I made some parts for the vented catch can tonight after work. Knocked the mounting tab off the vent, and used some 7075 bar stock to make an adapter sleeve that I will weld in.

The bottom threaded bung was cut from the same 7075 bar stock. I drilled, reamed, and tapped the bung for 1/8" NPT. I am thinking I will use the same tubing I use for my air lockers to plumb it to the resi cap.

I don't think the 7075 is going to want to weld. It will probably crack. You need 6K or 5K to weld on.

 

[Wisconsinite]

Yeah, I realized that about fifteen minutes after I made that post....

It was good practice I guess, haha.

 

[chaplinfj60]

so i am fighting a leaking power steering cap, so my thoughts was build my own res tank, nice solid lid that cant leak and put the ASV out of lid kinda like the PSC picture, but that leaks too in some cases? i am curious how you solve this issue. tired of fluid all over.

 

[Wisconsinite]

so i am fighting a leaking power steering cap, so my thoughts was build my own res tank, nice solid lid that cant leak and put the ASV out of lid kinda like the PSC picture, but that leaks too in some cases? i am curious how you solve this issue. tired of fluid all over.

I hope my current plan is as leak free as possible, only time will tell.

I ordered a chunk of 6061 round stock to remake the parts from last night, should have the power steering plumbing finished up this weekend!

 

[pennsylvaniaboy]

I asked the same question. I was told it cant be sealed?? But I am no expert..

 

[chaplinfj60]

I asked the same question. I was told it cant be sealed?? But I am no expert..

well not sealed , i was planning on tapping a hole in the top of the lid just like the PSC one and running a line to ASV, or to catch can.

 

[Wisconsinite]

well not sealed , i was planning on tapping a hole in the top of the lid just like the PSC one and running a line to ASV, or to catch can.

Let me know if you need a setup like I am making, I could whip 2 out no problem.

 

[chaplinfj60]

yeah for sure. i am limited on space is the reason i need to make my own res, kinda built my self into a tight tight corner. but if the part your making can be remote mounted away from res then yes i am in.

kick ass and thank you

 

[Wisconsinite]

Let's play critique my expansion tank ideas.

The components:
1- CBR 28 x 19 x 52mm core radiator 1.25" upper, 1.5" lower
2- 13" Spal fans @ 1710 cfm
1 - GM LS3 Camaro water pump



I will use this 3 x 3 aluminum tubing to make a tank mounted above the engine. I plan to make it ~8-16" long. I will have a radiator cap and bung installed on the top of the tube. The cap will be a lower pressure rating than the one on the radiator. The overflow nipple will drain to a catch can/atmosphere.

This radiator cap is ~25lbs, this will pop off after the expansion tank cap.
Plumb the 1/4" NPT port to the top of the expansion tank.

My upper radiator hose will be unchanged.

The heater core ports will remain looped, until I install a heater. The lower radiator hose will have a -10 AN weld bung fitted, and run to the bottom/side of the expansion tank.

The steam port kit will be plumbed to the top of the expansion tank.

And that's where I am at in the design phase. It shouldn't be too difficult, but want to make sure it's right before I start making parts. Any input is appreciated

 

[HYDRODYNAMIC]

You would purged more air from the rad if you connected a line off the rad cap to the surge tank. The 1/4” port is lower and will hold air above it. You also want the rad cap port to fluid so when it cools it can not pull air. You also can use a lower psi rad cap as it is only a check valve to the surge tank now.
The bottom of the surge should connect to a low pressure side on the pump. I used the heater port as a low pressure spot to pull in air free fluid.

 

[Wisconsinite]

You would purge more air from the rad if you connected a line off the rad cap to the surge tank. The 1/4” port is lower and will hold air above it. You also want the rad cap port to fluid so when it cools it can not pull air. You also can use a lower psi rad cap as it is only a check valve to the surge tank now.

Intresting. I didn't think of it like that. So you would add an outlet at the red dot? Could I tee the red dot outlet to the 1/4" NPT outlet and run one line to the tank?

The bottom of the surge should connect to a low pressure side on the pump. I used the heater port as a low pressure spot to pull in air free fluid.

Is the lower rad hose adequate? Is that low pressure enough?

 

[Wisconsinite]

Stolen from LS1tech regarding expansion tanks:

+1 it really is just a de-aeration chamber
But a very important one. 2% air in the system is 8% less heat transfer, but 4% is 38% less. If you are in hot weather (Phoenix, Vegas, etc) or tracking it, it makes a BIG diff in coolant temp. Also allows you to get away with a smaller rad due to the continual de-aeration. All cars should have them, then again I'm a cooling systems engineer. Bean counters hate me.

I wonder how true that is?

 

[HYDRODYNAMIC]

Intresting. I didn't think of it like that. So you would add an outlet at the red dot? Could I tee the red dot outlet to the 1/4" NPT outlet and run one line to the tank?


Is the lower rad hose adequate? Is that low pressure enough?

I assumed the front of the rad cap port had the 1/8” NPT port. You would need to drill, cross drill and tap the ports to turn it into a regular overflow style.
You would not need the 1/4” port if the rad cap was functional.

 

[Wisconsinite]

I assumed the front of the rad cap port had the 1/8” NPT port. You would need to drill, cross drill and tap the ports to turn it into a regular overflow style.
You would not need the 1/4” port if the rad cap was functional.

So, the radiator cap bung is a bit of a sore subject for me. The radiator as purchased had an 1/8" NPT nipple pointed to the driver side, right into my shock hoop. Not a big deal, I will cut it off, and rotate the bung so the fitting it pointing straight forward. Well, the supplied hose barb went right into the hood and caused intereference, also, the threaded hole was so close to the top of the radiator that you could not install a 90° fitting because you couldn't rotate it..... no big deal, I will cut it off again, and point it to the passenger side. Got that all fit up and had my buddy weld it on (I am not comfortable with critical welds on aluminum). He got a big ol glob of weld in the NPT threads. After a few attempts at thread repair, I said screw you, I am going home . I ended up having him weld that hole closed for good.

What do you mean cross drill? There wasn't any cross drilling on the cap bung as I recieved it? I don't think it would be a huge deal to pull the rad, drill and tap that hole on the red dot.

I appreciate all the input from everyone. It is really great

 

[HYDRODYNAMIC]

So, the radiator cap bung is a bit of a sore subject for me. The radiator as purchased had an 1/8" NPT nipple pointed to the driver side, right into my shock hoop. Not a big deal, I will cut it off, and rotate the bung so the fitting it pointing straight forward. Well, the supplied hose barb went right into the hood and caused intereference, also, the threaded hole was so close to the top of the radiator that you could not install a 90° fitting because you couldn't rotate it..... no big deal, I will cut it off again, and point it to the passenger side. Got that all fit up and had my buddy weld it on (I am not comfortable with critical welds on aluminum). He got a big ol glob of weld in the NPT threads. After a few attempts at thread repair, I said screw you, I am going home . I ended up having him weld that hole closed for good.

What do you mean cross drill? There wasn't any cross drilling on the cap bung as I recieved it? I don't think it would be a huge deal to pull the rad, drill and tap that hole on the red dot.

I appreciate all the input from everyone. It is really great

Just realized that Howe makes a special vent port design.
Still thinking about why they do this...
This port design removes the ability of the inlet check to bring in fluid or air when cold and contracting.
The main pressure seal will close the hole at all times not allowing air to enter back into the reservoir. Air and oil can only be vented out under pressure. An overflow tank will not be able to work with this design but a conventional radiator cap design would.
Maybe they don't want air, debris, water to be entering and exiting the reservoir through an open drip hose which many would probably run???
I'll probably call them and see if I can pick some brains.
Hopefully they can enlighten me on something cool and not just we did it this way because people take shortcuts and this solves them.

 

[WaterH]

Just realized that Howe makes a special vent port design.
Still thinking about why they do this...
This port design removes the ability of the inlet check to bring in fluid or air when cold and contracting.
The main pressure seal will close the hole at all times not allowing air to enter back into the reservoir. Air and oil can only be vented out under pressure. An overflow tank will not be able to work with this design but a conventional radiator cap design would.
Maybe they don't want air, debris, water to be entering and exiting the reservoir through an open drip hose which many would probably run???
I'll probably call them and see if I can pick some brains.
Hopefully they can enlighten me on something cool and not just we did it this way because people take shortcuts and this solves them.

What is different on a “conventional” rad cap? I think it should work. The very top of the cap seals. The spring seal just seals to a certain pressure. I know it appears to be a “one way” seal, but I don’t think it will stop a hydro vacuum Caused by temp.