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A wolf in Jeeps clothing - Goatbuilt 1200 LJ/TJ Chassis build

Alright, power steering should be pretty much buttoned up. I am waiting on a few fittings, and then she is done!

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This will be a big ticket item to cross off the list!
 
I ordered a -8 OBR to 1/8npt adapter from Fragola, and installed it into the aux port on the reservoir. I am using an AEM 30-2013 - Temperature Sensor Kit

Specs on the sensor:
  • Accuracy: < 1.5°C / 2.7°F
  • Operating Temp: -20C to 150C / -4F to 302F
  • Resistive Range (Ω): See Instructions
  • Dissipation Constant: 12 mW/°C. The ratio, at a specified ambient temperature, of the change in the power dissipation of the sensor to the resultant temperature change of the thermistor. Test medium: silicone oil.
  • Thermal Time Constant: 10 sec. The time required for the sensor to achieve 63.2% of its steady state value when subjected to a step change in ambient temperature [Tc=(Tf-Ti)*63.2%+Ti]. Test medium: silicone oil.
  • Sensor Body Material: Brass
  • Thread: 1/8" NPT
  • Hex Size: 1/2"
  • Installation Torque: 13.5Nm / 10 ft-lbs
  • Weight: 10g
  • Electrical Termination: Weatherproof High Performance DTM-Style connector. Includes Mating Connector, Pins & Wire Seals
  • Includes: Water Temp Sensor High Performance DTM-Style, 1/8" NPT Alumium Bung, Mating Connector, Pins & Wire Seals

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Should be a simple way to monitor the health of my power steering system.
 
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Wisconsinite said:
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Should be a simple way to monitor the health of my power steering system.
Click to expand...
Since you are running the bling ECU, this makes perfect sense. Easy to plug and play with the dash display. It would probably be easy to wire in some small brushless 12V computer fans on the cooler being controlled by the ECU.
If I was a poor I would consider a light and simple temp switch from a cooling fan application.
A cooling fan can replace the light as an audible warning while also cooling the system all without looking, you know what’s going on and when it’s cool again by the sound unless your exhaust is stupid loud.
 
Hope everyone had a great memorial day weekend. I spent some time on the jeep and was able to knock out a few small things.

The air intake is pretty much finished, although I would like to add some sort of box or shielding to prevent sucking a bunch of hot air. I originally ordered spectre 90° boots, flex couplers, etc. Upon fitting them, the quality didn't seem the best, and my one buddy who builds highish hp turbo trucks said they were kinda junk. I went with Vibrant performance components as replacements, they are much nicer parts. They are also 4x cost........

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I welded a -10 bung to the lower radiator hose to run to the expansion tank, and drilled/tapped the radiator to accept an 1/8npt fitting. Does anyone have an elegant way to wye these to fittings together. I would like them to merge into one larger hose that I can run to the expansion tank.

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I am trying to get the engine PCV and catch can sorted. I am somewhat unsure of the proper way to go about this, and would appreciate input. Here are the ports I have right now:


Rear driver side valve cover, looks to be 3/8 hose fitting. OEM PCV. This would go to the catch can INLET.

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Front passenger side valve cover, looks to be 3/8 hose fitting. PCV CLEAN AIR SUPPLY IN. Do I need to connect this to the intake tube?

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Intake manifold port,looks to be 3/8 hose fitting. PCV CLEANED VACUUM RETURN. This would go to the catch can OUTLET.

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I left everything open to atmosphere.

Just put big vent lines and do the 3 sides and down with the hoses.


For your fittings, just run had lines to a T.


For the intake I'd agree on the heatshield. Looks really good though.
 
Wisconsinite said:
Can you elaborate on that? What did you put a big vent on?
Click to expand...

AN10 lines to replace the factory PCV hoses. No filters or nothing.

Edit : look at this. Not exactly what I'm doing but the idea is there.



Edit2 : This is not how you're supposed to do it. You're supposed to put vaccum to the crank case. But I'm very much paranoid about getting oil in my intake and this has been working fine for me.
 
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^
Just to confirm,

Connect the two valve covers together, cap the port on the intake manifold, run a single large ID vent line from the oil fill to atmoshpere
 
Wisconsinite said:
^
Just to confirm,

Connect the two valve covers together, cap the port on the intake manifold, run a single large ID vent line from the oil fill to atmoshpere
Click to expand...

That's what the video shows.

On my rig I have 2 AN10 lines with a 3 sides down and that's it.

mobil1syn solution has the pro of having a catch can, which I don't need for my use.
 
Bebop said:
That's what the video shows.

On my rig I have 2 AN10 lines with a 3 sides down and that's it.

mobil1syn solution has the pro of having a catch can, which I don't need for my use.
Click to expand...

I appreciate your input, and your solution seems the simplest. I do like the idea of having a catch can though, it might keep things a little cleaner in the long run. I found a little spot I can tuck a catch can, and will look into that option some more.

mobil1syn Is there a clean air intake at all? Do I still hook up the pass valve cover to the intake tube? Then I cap/plug the port on the intake manifold?
 
Since there is no PCV system anymore you don't have a "fresh air supply" or a "dirty air outlet".

Both holes act as a vent. That's it.
 
Here is the thread pertaining to crank case venting.

irate4x4.com

LS Engine Venting / Positive Crankcase Ventilation / Fuel Air Trap System

So to start this off: Fuel Air Trap System or FATS is known within our sport and fairly well accepted by all as a way to prevent fluid from leaking from an object during rollover. The simple way I have read is four sides and down. Theory is plumb from the top then around the four sides somewhat...
irate4x4.com irate4x4.com
 
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Wisconsinite said:
I welded a -10 bung to the lower radiator hose to run to the expansion tank, and drilled/tapped the radiator to accept an 1/8npt fitting. Does anyone have an elegant way to wye these to fittings together. I would like them to merge into one larger hose that I can run to the expansion tank.

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Plug the lower fitting as the top rad cap port will do the job of the lower one.
 
Stock steam lines are right around that size. You are not using the rad cap to vent to atmosphere. You are using it as a low cracking pressure check that vents to the surge tank which is under pressure set by the atmospheric surge cap.
 
HYDRODYNAMIC said:
Stock steam lines are right around that size. You are not using the rad cap to vent to atmosphere. You are using it as a low cracking pressure check that vents to the surge tank which is under pressure set by the atmospheric surge cap.
Click to expand...
What is the purpose of a pressurized surge tank? Is a “surge tank” the same as a overflow resivour?
 
WaterH said:
What is the purpose of a pressurized surge tank? Is a “surge tank” the same as a overflow resivour?
Click to expand...
Typically, an overflow = catch can. An unpressurized vessel to accommodate for the volumetric changes during heat cycles of the radiator. I am running a low PSI cap on the radiator that will vent to the expansion tank. I am running my steam port lines to the tank, as well as a -10 hose from the lower rad hose. This will give me increased coolant volume, and act as a degas chamber.

V from previous posts in this thread:

You would purge more air from the rad if you connected a line off the rad cap to the surge tank. The 1/4” port is lower and will hold air above it. You also want the rad cap port to fluid so when it cools it can not pull air. You also can use a lower psi rad cap as it is only a check valve to the surge tank now.

Stolen from LS1tech regarding expansion tanks:

+1 it really is just a de-aeration chamber
But a very important one. 2% air in the system is 8% less heat transfer, but 4% is 38% less. If you are in hot weather (Phoenix, Vegas, etc) or tracking it, it makes a BIG diff in coolant temp. Also allows you to get away with a smaller rad due to the continual de-aeration. All cars should have them, then again I'm a cooling systems engineer. Bean counters hate me.
 
I’m sorry to be dense here, but, to me, an overflow reservoir is a tank that keeps the rad full of coolant. It goes up and down with expansion. These are on most all modern cars. I’ve not heard of a pressure cap on one, but I don’t see a reason you couldn’t put one on. I’m Just not sure why. If you have a pressure cap on the rad, you get the benifits of increase pressure raising the boiling point. What is the benefit of the pressure cap on the reservoir?

Or maybe I got this all wrong. Is there another reservoir after the surge tank?
 
HYDRODYNAMIC said:
Stock steam lines are right around that size. You are not using the rad cap to vent to atmosphere. You are using it as a low cracking pressure check that vents to the surge tank which is under pressure set by the atmospheric surge cap.
Click to expand...
Thinking a little further on this. -Edited

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You are going to need to vent through the rad cap in order to purge steam and air to the expansion or surge tank or de-aeration chamber, no air is vented to atmosphere. The system will pressurize on both sides of the rad cap so it doesn't matter what PSI rating it has it, it will see equal pressure on both sides and not open. The vacuum seal will be the point of purge. I would get an open/weighted non spring loaded version and grind the rivet off and remove the lower vacuum valve so it will continuously purge air at the high point. The air will purge to the low pressure side / surge tank and will release to atmospheric vent pressure say 15 PSI.
When things cool down. The rad cap will not let air in, only coolant from the surge tank through the open vacuum valve. The surge tank cap will allow air in from atmosphere or coolant from an overflow tank.
 
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One thing I haven't given much thought is an engine oil cooler. If I am going to add one, now would be the time. Is it necessary? Any opinions on that?
 
If you race it, yes, absolutely. If not, I wouldn't think so. I don't have any in my rig and the oil is clean at the oil changes.

Factory half ton trucks didn't get any oil cooler. The HD trucks did.

What matters is the amount of time spent under load.
 
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