A wolf in Jeeps clothing - Goatbuilt 1200 LJ/TJ Chassis build

[WaterH]

Your windshield cracked from using the defrost? Do you have a picture of your defrost vent? Did it concentrate all the heat on one area?

Yes. I did use some defuses that I got from summit, but they may have been too close. I don’t have great pics. Heres one during build.

You can see how I sunk in the defused so it would not shoot directly at the window. Here’s after first use.

Wierd how the cracks were on either side of the defused.

This is how I made four outlets. Seems to work good.

 

[Wisconsinite]

^ Thanks for the info. I may have to re-think my defrost situation. That manifold is pretty slick.

 

[Wuz-A-zuk]

You can see how I sunk in the defused so it would not shoot directly at the window. Here’s after first use.

Wierd how the cracks were on either side of the defused.

WaterH did you ever consider the cracks possibly being from panel warpage and not direct heat? I recall you mentioning this before but this is the first time I've seen pics.

Looks like a fair amount of flat panels and the rivets are fairly spaced. Panels flex some from the heat and crack the window. Just a thought.

The cracks seem to be right between the rivets as well, maybe add some more rivets in that area.
Hijack over.

Keep building Josh haha

 

[WaterH]

WaterH did you ever consider the cracks possibly being from panel warpage and not direct heat?

I had the heat on (idling) and went to check on my son’s swimming pool. (He was out of town) It should have been just a few seconds, but ended up being about ten minutes. When I came back out, it was cracked. I have a new piece of glass in there now and it’s been good for several months of driving. The other issue is my windshield fit super tight. Maybe too tight. It could have been stressed, but Definitely the heat triggered it.

Also, sorry about the hyjack.

 

[Wisconsinite]

Trans lines are done.

How is everyone running the vent for the atlas? Are you doing the 3 sides and down? And practiacally speaking, how short can the legs of the three sides be?

 

[ScottRS]

According to the heater box mfg, heaters have no bias in hose connection. I was thinking since the heater core is pretty high in the system, that the bottom would be in front water pump, and the top would be out to water pump. Any input?

In theory it should not matter; in practice, I'd agree with your gut and would add that I've seen going the other way have air bleed issues, and have also seen bottom-to-top flow give slightly better heat exchange.

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

I wouldn't think so.

BUT wouldn't that locate the sensor out front and down low on the rear diff putting it in harms way?

 

[CarterKraft]

What about a screw in sensor tube from the top of the diff "back"?
No idea on compatibility with your gauge package etc. but I think the idea is sound.
I originally dreamed up a double tube extension that threaded into a bung in the top of the diff then once unscrewed had a lower section that unscrewed to expose the sensor but that seems overly complicated to build and keep sealed from water ingress.

These "thermowells" accomplish my idea but I'm not sure if the sensors are compatible.

https://cdn.automationdirect.com/static/specs/psthermowellsl.pdf

PS. I always forget this thread because of "Jeep" in the title, I am so glad I find it each time.
This build is so clean and awesome you should really be proud.

 

[Wisconsinite]

What about a screw in sensor tube from the top of the diff "back"?
No idea on compatibility with your gauge package etc. but I think the idea is sound.
I originally dreamed up a double tube extension that threaded into a bung in the top of the diff then once unscrewed had a lower section that unscrewed to expose the sensor but that seems overly complicated to build and keep sealed from water ingress.

These "thermowells" accomplish my idea but I'm not sure if the sensors are compatible.

https://cdn.automationdirect.com/static/specs/psthermowellsl.pdf

PS. I always forget this thread because of "Jeep" in the title, I am so glad I find it each time.
This build is so clean and awesome you should really be proud.

Thank you for the kind words!

I will look into those, they look pretty slick. I am running the holley dominator with the digital dash.

 

[CarterKraft]

Thank you for the kind words!

I will look into those, they look pretty slick. I am running the holley dominator with the digital dash.

Maybe just keep this concept in mind. Mounting the sensor in the top would keep it pretty tough to damage.
What sensors do you use, can you tell who makes them?

 

[Wisconsinite]

Maybe just keep this concept in mind. Mounting the sensor in the top would keep it pretty tough to damage.
What sensors do you use, can you tell who makes them?

For sure! I haven't had much exposure to that style sensor, I will have to look into them more.

THESE are the sensors I plan on using. I have one for P/S fluid temp, and the same part no. sensor for the trans fluid temp. I have never used that brand before, but they come with a 2 pin DTM connector, and that will blend seamlessly into my wiring harness.

 

[Wisconsinite]

Here is a potential solution to the diff sensor location. On these fabricated housings, there is a reinforcment gusset welded in (second pic) with two small holes. That gusset creates a little cavity, and I installed the breather port in the upper cavity, If I open up the bottom hole to say 3/8" or 1/2", could I mount the temp sensor in that location and get an accurate fluid temp? Making a skid plate or protective tube would be simple, wiring then could run up with the breather line.

 

[CarterKraft]

Here is a potential solution to the diff sensor location. On these fabricated housings, there is a reinforcment gusset welded in (second pic) with two small holes. That gusset creates a little cavity, and I installed the breather port in the upper cavity, If I open up the bottom hole to say 3/8" or 1/2", could I mount the temp sensor in that location and get an accurate fluid temp? Making a skid plate or protective tube would be simple, wiring then could run up with the breather line.

I would think that cavity will read very slowly with little to no flow until really hot and even then it's going to be really slow to react.

You might be able mount it in the third internally... Sounds dumb but it might be a simple solution.

 

[Wisconsinite]

I would think that cavity will read very slowly with little to no flow until really hot and even then it's going to be really slow to react.

You might be able mount it in the third internally... Sounds dumb but it might be a simple solution.

I was wondering if it would read slow, Bebop mentioned my idea for a t-case temp sensor would read inaccuarate due to the no flow situation as well.

I think there might be a location on the 3rd case I could drill and tap for 1/8 npt, and then thread the sensor directly into it. But then I have the issue of protecting it.

 

[chaplinfj60]

But any reading slow or fast is a reading. You will just have to find your own high or low with a bit of run tim so to speak.

Like drive an hour. Record temp. And set a base line. But during gear break in it will warm up for sure.

I like the concept for sure.

 

[1Sinner]

In for the updates. Fantastic work throughout. Personally if I were to add a sensor to the diffs, I would not put it into the fluid directly, I would install a bulb well (used in industrial applications) directly into the fluid and then a thermal sensor into the well. That way if the sensor gets damaged you won't lose any fluid.

 

[Wisconsinite]

In for the updates. Fantastic work throughout. Personally if I were to add a sensor to the diffs, I would not put it into the fluid directly, I would install a bulb well (used in industrial applications) directly into the fluid and then a thermal sensor into the well. That way if the sensor gets damaged you won't lose any fluid.

Do you have any examples?

 

[1Sinner]

You install the threaded bung in an npt port or hole, ththe end is in the fluid path and transfers heat directly to the probe without being in direct contact with the fluid, giving you an added layer of protection for sensor failure. Theres multiple different styles.

 

[Wisconsinite]

You install the threaded bung in an npt port or hole, ththe end is in the fluid path and transfers heat directly to the probe without being in direct contact with the fluid, giving you an added layer of protection for sensor failure. Theres multiple different styles.

That is really interesting. How responsive would something like that be? Probably responsive enough for a diff temp reading

 

[1Sinner]

I use those in steam plant and space research applications. Would be fine for diff temp readings

 

[Wisconsinite]

I use those in steam plant and space research applications. Would be fine for diff temp readings

What style of sensor are you using? Would something like this work?

 

[1Sinner]

What style of sensor are you using? Would something like this work?

Yes, that would be fine as long as the OD of the sensor matches the ID of the bulb well.

 

[Bebop]

How is everyone running the vent for the atlas? Are you doing the 3 sides and down? And practiacally speaking, how short can the legs of the three sides be?

I put a below on mine. No issues so far.

3 sides down would works no problem and the legs need to be wider than the case. That's the whole concept of the 3 sides down method.

 

[CarterKraft]

Do you have any examples?

That is the thermo-well I linked too earlier.

 

[WaterH]

What style of sensor are you using? Would something like this work?

When I look at that sensor, I don’t see how it’s failure would leak oil any more than the extensions. I guess you can instal the extension ones on top where they are less likly to get hit.

 

[Wisconsinite]

When I look at that sensor, I don’t see how it’s failure would leak oil any more than the extensions. I guess you can instal the extension ones on top where they are less likly to get hit.

I agree with you, that sensor shouldn't leak unless the whole body gets mangled. And precisely, the extension tube opens up other mounting solutions that might offer more protection.

 

[Bebop]

When I look at that sensor, I don’t see how it’s failure would leak oil any more than the extensions. I guess you can instal the extension ones on top where they are less likly to get hit.

I agree, I wouldn't do anything other than threading the sensor in the housing.

 

[1Sinner]

When I look at that sensor, I don’t see how it’s failure would leak oil any more than the extensions. I guess you can instal the extension ones on top where they are less likly to get hit.

And change them without losing fluid if they fail. I've seen quite a few sensor failures that end up leaking into the electrical cavity.

 

[Wisconsinite]

I agree, I wouldn't do anything other than threading the sensor in the housing.

That is still an option. I am having difficulty location a decent location to thread it directly into the housing. I could potentially drill and tap the 3rd casting?

 

[Bebop]

That is still an option. I am having difficulty location a decent location to thread it directly into the housing. I could potentially drill and tap the 3rd casting?

Top of the housing not an option ?