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A wolf in Jeeps clothing - Goatbuilt 1200 LJ/TJ Chassis build

I have been busy the last few weekend getting some things done outside before we have 6 months of cold weather. Finally got back in the shop a little this weekend and ran some fuel line. The flex line that I am running is Fragola Series 6000 P.T.F.E lined hose in -6 size with 6000 series hose ends.

At the fuel rail I have a 3/8 EFI quick connect to 6000 series hose end. This is a really clean way of going from EFI connector to the hose. Then it goes to a straight hose end, followed by 2 1/8 FPT adapters for sensors, to a 90 degree bulkhead. I am adding a Holley EFI fuel pressure sensor, and a rife "short" inline fuel temp sensor. After this, it is all 3/8" SS hardline to the rear of the subframe. It runs next to the exhaust for a solid 3', that has me a little concerned about heating the fuel, but only time will tell if it is an issue or not.

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The hard line is sheathed in DEI fire sleeve, hopefully that is good enough:

Fire Sleeve solves the problem of heat and abrasions damaging fuel, transmission and brake lines and is a fireproof solution.

Constructed from a high temperature resistant braided glass material, woven into a sleeve and heavily coated with 100% iron oxide silicone rubber, Fire Sleeve thermal insulator sleeve provides the ultimate in heat insulation and protection from direct heat up to 500°F.

Each kit (except by-the-linear-foot sizes*) includes a 16-inch length of black Fire Tape, an adhesive-free, self-adhering tape, to finish off ends of Fire Sleeve or when joining two Fire Sleeves together while presenting a clean and professional look.

  • Insulates wiring, hoses, oil / brakes / transmission lines & more
  • Use for bundling & protecting hoses, electrical wiring, etc.
  • Withstands 2000°F of intermittent heat
 
I'm glad you're using firesleeve.

Given the distance and the fact it's hard line, I'd say you'll be fine with that setup.
 
Bebop said:
I'm glad you're using firesleeve.

Given the distance and the fact it's hard line, I'd say you'll be fine with that setup.
Click to expand...
There will be a few feet of line that isn't anywhere near a heat source (under the rear seat area). Would you still add the fire sleeve to protect the line from abrasion?
 
Unless something is actively resting on it and rubbing, this is unecessary.

Remember that firesleeve will collect shit inside too, so I would but some SCL on the ends to close it off.
 
The fire sleeve kit (except by-the-linear-foot sizes*) includes a 16-inch length of black Fire Tape, an adhesive-free, self-adhering tape, to finish off ends of Fire Sleeve or when joining two Fire Sleeves together while presenting a clean and professional look.

Would you put SCL over the tape?
 
yes.

I've had mediocre results with the tape in hot locations.
 
The heat shield on the fuel line and the distance looks like more than enough to keep the fuel cool. Abrasion on SS hardline is a non issue unless you are dragging it on rocks, at that point you will collapse the line before wearing through it.

The unsupported heater valves do look sketchy as the dynamic weight of the hoses can loosen up the seat and cause a leak. All the lightweight aluminum fittings are bling but scare me compared to a solid steel fitting that can take a beating and bend if needed. Maybe this is unreasonable due to metallurgy but, steel feels safer.
 
HYDRODYNAMIC said:
The unsupported heater valves do look sketchy as the dynamic weight of the hoses can loosen up the seat and cause a leak. All the lightweight aluminum fittings are bling but scare me compared to a solid steel fitting that can take a beating and bend if needed. Maybe this is unreasonable due to metallurgy but, steel feels safer.
Click to expand...

Yeah, that was discussed a page or so ago. I am going to make a bracket that will capture both bulkheads right at the valves. The current plan is to have it bolted onto the fender panel. That should control most of the movement.

Question for you guys, I have read that blocking off the heater ports on the LS water pump is a no go. What is the reasoning for this? Some people say it doesn't matter, some say you should loop them together.
 
Wisconsinite said:
Question for you guys, I have read that blocking off the heater ports on the LS water pump is a no go. What is the reasoning for this? Some people say it doesn't matter, some say you should loop them together.
Click to expand...
You can trap an air pocket at the fittings if you just cap them. I have seen the metal tube pulled out and the pump taped for a pipe thread plug. That’s probably best if you’re not going to loop them.

Keep up the good work it looks awesome
 
Raychem SCL. A badass product

RAYCHEM SCL​

  • Semi-Rigid, Encapsulant Lined 2:1 heat shrink tubing
  • Provides moisture resistance, strain relief, and electrical insulation for splices and terminations
  • Can be pinched and blocked while hot to form a wire breakout
  • Rugged protection against abrasion, vibrations, flexing, and some chemicals
  • Dual-Wall Semi-Rigid crosslinked polyolefin outer, meltaple polyolefin inner
  • Operating Temperature -55° to 110°C (-67° to 230°F)
  • Installation Temperature135°C (275°F)
  • SOLD IN 4ft STICKS
 
I never figured out exactly how to deal with the heater lines in a swap.

I read a lot of conflicting info and most of it didn't make sense. Since so much time has passed it would be good to hear if there is a gospel on this now.
 
Wisconsinite said:
Raychem SCL. A badass product

RAYCHEM SCL​

  • Semi-Rigid, Encapsulant Lined 2:1 heat shrink tubing
  • Provides moisture resistance, strain relief, and electrical insulation for splices and terminations
  • Can be pinched and blocked while hot to form a wire breakout
  • Rugged protection against abrasion, vibrations, flexing, and some chemicals
  • Dual-Wall Semi-Rigid crosslinked polyolefin outer, meltaple polyolefin inner
  • Operating Temperature -55° to 110°C (-67° to 230°F)
  • Installation Temperature135°C (275°F)
  • SOLD IN 4ft STICKS
Click to expand...

Nice. I'm going to have to order some of that to play around with.

I've been worried about my Aeroquip socketless hoses (rated to 300F) in the steering, trans, and gasoline (oil and fuel) applications near the headers. So I'm taking notes. I'm currently thinking about crimped Fragola Race-Rite (rated to 500F) and wrapping them in firesleeve if I can get it around the fittings.
 
My reasoning for adding the shut off valves was to help stop conductive heating of the heater core in the summer months. I was told by two reliable sources that most heavy equipment have a valve on each heater line for this reason.

If it is not in good practice to cap the LS heater outlets, I could add a 180 degree fitting on the heater core lines to loop them in the summer months. That would mean the valves are essentially useless now.
 
Just dropping by because I was told by someone I trust that I shouldn't be using SCL on the lines to hold on to the firesleeve, and use DR-25 instead.

SCL glue will go in the metal strands of the AN lines and we don't want that.

Since I use mostly pushlock everything, it has never been an issue for me, but I can understand his point.

Just passing it along.
 
I'm assuming so.
And flexibility maybe ?
 
Wisconsinite said:
My reasoning for adding the shut off valves was to help stop conductive heating of the heater core in the summer months. I was told by two reliable sources that most heavy equipment have a valve on each heater line for this reason.

If it is not in good practice to cap the LS heater outlets, I could add a 180 degree fitting on the heater core lines to loop them in the summer months. That would mean the valves are essentially useless now.
Click to expand...

Heavy equipment used to have that feature but in my testing the heater core gets ice cold from the evaporator with no measurable migration when there is just one valve.

I would say figure out the best way to deal with the LS specific flow path before worrying about the valving.
 
I have the loop hose on my buggy.
Buddy has ports plugged.

Both of us work fine.

Blueprint crate engines show up with the loop hose.
Turnkey crate engines show up with the ports plugged.

I don't think it matters, but you'll find people to tell you that each solution will either make your shit run 20deg cooler and the other one will explode in a ball of fire or vice-versa. Some people really get worked up over it.

I added the loop hose because I'm lazy and didn't want to drill / tap / buy a plug etc...
Also, me thinks it helps with bleeding so you keep flow going when the thermostat is closed (that's a big maybe...)
 
Cool. Thanks for the responses. I was going to order a 180 -10m to -10m fitting for the hoses and a few -10 caps for the valves. I am going to give it a shot with the valves for the time being.
 
Bebop said:
Depending on what the questions are, I don't mind at all.
Most of it I will freely share.
Some of it that took me a long time to design or figure I may keep.

No matter what, just ask away.
Click to expand...
You need to start a DashDesign thread where we can pick your brain :idea:
 
A buddy stopped over tonight and we got Felicia the Freightliner fired up (that is my crawler hauler). Holy balls, did that get the juices flowing.

Current goal:

By the end of October I hope to have all the plumbing done.
  • Finish running the fuel lines, mount the filter/regulator, and plumb the vent for the fuel tank. Last of the needed fittings will be here tomorrow.
  • Run breather lines for trans, t-case, and axles. Fittings will be here tomorrow.
  • Make new lower rad hose. Parts in hand.
  • Plumb the ARB compressor. No parts yet.
  • Plumb the brake system. Parts in hand.

November is going to be slow for progress. It is deer season and thanksgiving. But the goal for this month is:
  • Mount rear light bar.
  • Mount rock lights.
  • Mount front turn signals.
  • Mount dome lights.
  • Mount whips.
  • Make removeable(maybe) mounting panel for all electronics under dash.
  • Fit trans/t-case shifters.
  • Mount the horn.
  • Mount winch.

December..
- Get vehicle ready for tear down. Hopefully.



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The large front port is low pressure cold coolant inlet
The small rear is high pressure hot outlet
Coolant movement through the heater ports passes over the thermostat. The thermostat also has holes to allow for passage if the ports are blocked.
I use the ports with a surge tank to actively remove air and steam from the system. Steam ports are also connected to the top of tank along with the small high pressure heater port. The large low pressure port connects to bottom of tank to pull degassed coolant back to the pump. The tank is also the fill point.
If you delete the thermostat, you need a freeze plug between the high and low pressure sides of the pump that the thermostat normally blocks with a bypass spring plate with holes. That spring plate is the bypass which is used when the thermostat is closed. Water is bypassed inside the pump over/through the spring as it can not flow through the thermostat and radiator. Sounds like most are drilling a 3/16”-5/16” hole in the plug, which I assume is to bleed air?

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