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7.3 thread continued?

It looks expensive but I guess it saves time of pulling the engine.

If it was just leaking a little it wouldn’t bother me but after 5 min of idling there is a 6” puddle under it.
 
KungFooMASTA said:
It looks expensive but I guess it saves time of pulling the engine.

If it was just leaking a little it wouldn’t bother me but after 5 min of idling there is a 6” puddle under it.
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It's just ambient air pressure. De-grease, brake clean, repeat several times and then apply RTV externally. Should at least slow it down enough to make it not a problem.
 
I did the dieselOrings kit that replaces the inner oring and locktite's everything down a few years ago, lasted about 2 years before it started dripping again.

Used the outer sealing kit this time around that puts a seal on the outside of the pan glued down with RTV.. no drips for a week so far.
MOD Dipstick Seal

If you get that big of a puddle idling I would also check the head oil galley end plugs and the turbo/pedestal orings. Sounds like a leak under pressure.

I'm battling a drip (puddle) while parked that is looking to be behind the bellhousing since both heads are dry, no oil in the valley, new turbo/pedestal and EBPV deleted.

For those 2 years after the first fix I had zero drips/leaks. I felt so special!
 
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Also check a ccv, 3 of my group tried the external ccv and all experienced a huge difference in oil leaks, went back and they stopped or drastically reduced.
 
My CCV just runs through a hose and hangs out the fender well. Haven't had a leak issue.

So what are you saying? What is a forced air CCV system?

thought about adding it into the exhast. But really not having any issues.
 
Tiha said:
My CCV just runs through a hose and hangs out the fender well. Haven't had a leak issue.

So what are you saying? What is a forced air CCV system?

thought about adding it into the exhast. But really not having any issues.
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You modified from stock, or are you running an mdt?

It's only a theory, but just the vacuum of the intake pre turbo is helping suck pressure out? :confused:
 
Tiha said:
My CCV just runs through a hose and hangs out the fender well. Haven't had a leak issue.

So what are you saying? What is a forced air CCV system?

thought about adding it into the exhast. But really not having any issues.
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From the factory there is a vacuum creating airfoil in the intake pre turbo.
Most trucks seem to have other issues when this was changed to road "draft" tube.
I added a Morosso Vacu-Pan venturi pipe to the exhaust pipe post muffler on my wife's Excursion because the drive thru stink was less than desirable in her view.
That just fucked with me because I could see the oil vapor in the passenger mirror at idle and it made me think I had a leaking injector.
 
cchambers13 said:
I did the dieselOrings kit that replaces the inner oring and locktite's everything down a few years ago, lasted about 2 years before it started dripping again.

Used the outer sealing kit this time around that puts a seal on the outside of the pan glued down with RTV.. no drips for a week so far.
MOD Dipstick Seal

If you get that big of a puddle idling I would also check the head oil galley end plugs and the turbo/pedestal orings. Sounds like a leak under pressure.

I'm battling a drip (puddle) while parked that is looking to be behind the bellhousing since both heads are dry, no oil in the valley, new turbo/pedestal and EBPV deleted.

For those 2 years after the first fix I had zero drips/leaks. I felt so special!
Click to expand...
I think I will try this one thanks.

YotaAtieToo said:
Also check a ccv, 3 of my group tried the external ccv and all experienced a huge difference in oil leaks, went back and they stopped or drastically reduced.
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Do you mean like a road draft tube? Like on a big truck? Do you run it from one of the valve covers?
 
KungFooMASTA said:
I think I will try this one thanks.


Do you mean like a road draft tube? Like on a big truck? Do you run it from one of the valve covers?
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Yeah you can flip the ccv box around and put a nipple and piece of hose to run down to the ground.
My experience is meh, keeps oil out of the intercooler but doesn't help the engine leaks.
 
From my experience, I know it’s a lot of work, but pulling the engine is easier than trying to do it in the truck on all fords gas or diesel. I’ve done it both ways.

I routinely replace rusted 7.3l oil pans, I’ve fixed a few dipsticks. Usually someone has over-tightened the nut on the outside deforming the garbage thin aluminum piece inside the oil pan and it won’t seal again.

Dorman sells a nice HD steel version but you have to pull the pan to use theirs.

If your nut hasn’t been over tightened you can stick a bore brush in the tube to keep from dropping the inside piece, remove the outside nut and slip a new oring in. This only works if the inside piece is still flat, otherwise it just leaks again.
 
Covecrawler said:
If your nut hasn’t been over tightened you can stick a bore brush in the tube to keep from dropping the inside piece, remove the outside nut and slip a new oring in. This only works if the inside piece is still flat, otherwise it just leaks again.
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Brilliant:beer:
 
YotaAtieToo said:
You modified from stock, or are you running an mdt?

It's only a theory, but just the vacuum of the intake pre turbo is helping suck pressure out? :confused:
Click to expand...
Yes I agree completely, the slight vacuum in the intake is great for the CCV. I installed an intercooler on my 95. Didn't want to dirty the intercooler.


CarterKraft said:
From the factory there is a vacuum creating airfoil in the intake pre turbo.
Most trucks seem to have other issues when this was changed to road "draft" tube.
I added a Morosso Vacu-Pan venturi pipe to the exhaust pipe post muffler on my wife's Excursion because the drive thru stink was less than desirable in her view.
Click to expand...
Basically yes a road draft tube is what I am running. If I run down the interstate for a couple hours and pull off I get that stink, once in a while I think I see a haze.
I have it coming out of the valve cover/filter to a heater hose. It goes up and over the intake pipe. In my mind thinking the rise of the hose hopefully give the vapors time to cool and oil to run back into the valve cover. Then out and down the back of the driver's side fender well.
I don't get any oil drips. Kept waiting to see signs of oil and was going to add a catch can, but not needed yet.

That is why I want to put it into the exhaust as well. Now I know what to order. Thank you.
 
KungFooMASTA said:
Mine has an oil leak from where the dipstick tube goes into the pan. I figured it would be an easy fix when I change the oil. My friend at a Ford dealer laughed at me and said you have to pull the engine to fix it. Is he joking with me or what?
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Lift the cab 4" lift the motor 3.5" drop the pan.


Ford says pull the motor and turn it upside down or it will never seal again.
 
Squamch said:
Lift the cab 4" lift the motor 3.5" drop the pan.


Ford says pull the motor and turn it upside down or it will never seal again.
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It seems crazy to me to think raising the cab and engine is easier than pulling the engine....
 
Ok,
97 F350 7.3 psd auto 285k
owned since new, meticulous maintenance . banks power pack is the only mod.
drove it Saturday. Shut it down in my driveway. Went out two hours later and it fires rite up but is running rough. Like shaking violently rough. I shut it down and went about my day because I didn’t have time to mess with it. Try starting it a day later and now it sounds like it is hitting on one or two cylinders Without starting.

Oil is full, fuel in the fuel filter housing, batteries are good.
Before I start throwing money at it with injector harnesess,idm. Etc. anyone got any guesses?

CPS? I haven’t look at the tach while cranking it but I don’t think it’s that. I’ve been though a few.
 
Unplug the connectors at the valve covers and take a look. Sometimes you can see damaged pins from the outside.
A bad CPS generally won't run at all.
 
Going to unplug the ICP sensor. Then I’ll check the IPR. seems odd, the truck was running and driving great two hours earlier. Never stalled, I turned it off after parking.
Has the updated CPS, didn’t exhibit any bad CPS symptoms.
 
72Pstroke said:
Unplug the connectors at the valve covers and take a look. Sometimes you can see damaged pins from the outside.
A bad CPS generally won't run at all.
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Can't you unplug the cps as a diagnosis? Or was that another sensor.

I swapped a napa cps in mine chasing a no start that turned out just be low battery voltage. It ran like shit after, but not 1 or 2 cyl bad. Swapped the original back and it's all good.

I'd think valve cover harness but I've honestly never had a running issue with mine except what I mentioned and the idm dropping the pass bank :laughing:
 
CPS will be a no start condition most of the time.

Do you have any gauges? HPOP pressure can tell a story
 
Stock87 said:
Ok,
97 F350 7.3 psd auto 285k
owned since new, meticulous maintenance . banks power pack is the only mod.
drove it Saturday. Shut it down in my driveway. Went out two hours later and it fires rite up but is running rough. Like shaking violently rough. I shut it down and went about my day because I didn’t have time to mess with it. Try starting it a day later and now it sounds like it is hitting on one or two cylinders Without starting.

Oil is full, fuel in the fuel filter housing, batteries are good.
Before I start throwing money at it with injector harnesess,idm. Etc. anyone got any guesses?

CPS? I haven’t look at the tach while cranking it but I don’t think it’s that. I’ve been though a few.
Click to expand...
Valve cover harness is a good place to start. If one injector wire grounds out the IDM shuts the whole bank of cylinders down. The injector wires can rub the push rods and other metal under the VC when the little zip ties break.

Water in the IDM is another issue I see that will kill 4 cylinders.

KOEO Codes or buzz test should tell a story.
 
The injector harness connector design was changed after the obs for a reason, I would start there
 
Stock87 said:
Ok,
97 F350 7.3 psd auto 285k
owned since new, meticulous maintenance . banks power pack is the only mod.
drove it Saturday. Shut it down in my driveway. Went out two hours later and it fires rite up but is running rough. Like shaking violently rough. I shut it down and went about my day because I didn’t have time to mess with it. Try starting it a day later and now it sounds like it is hitting on one or two cylinders Without starting.

Oil is full, fuel in the fuel filter housing, batteries are good.
Before I start throwing money at it with injector harnesess,idm. Etc. anyone got any guesses?

CPS? I haven’t look at the tach while cranking it but I don’t think it’s that. I’ve been though a few.
Click to expand...
When my IDM went bad I got a CEL along with it.
 
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