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7.3 thread continued?

So, I think I may have another issue :laughing:

If it's idling for a few minutes, it will start to haze white smoke, the longer it idles, the worse it gets. Also, it will white smoke a decent amount after I'm in a store for 15-20 Mins. Seems to clear up when driving normal.

Leaky injector?
 
Did some googling, looks like it could be a number of things including low compression...... :(

I'd think that the fact that it will do it after sitting for 15-20 Mins not running leads me to Leaky injector, but who knows.
 
Are you on FTE forum?

Skiskyjason usually diagnoses this stuff really well
 
Are you on FTE forum?

Skiskyjason usually diagnoses this stuff really well

No, just here. :flipoff2:

I tried 1 or 2 of those forums, but you have to wade through sooooo much bs to find tech. Most of the guys on them never tow, or if they do its a jet ski.
 
Well, it must not have been too serious, because it's not doing it now. :laughing:

I read one thread where a guy got "fixed" a sticky injector with some diesel kleen and some hot rodding. I dumped a splash right in the filter bowl and the rest in the tank. Didn't white smoke at all today. Hopefully that's all it is. I may do more kleen in the next tank or 2.
 
Try some hot shots secrets in the oil. I’ve heard of a few injector issues clearing up with this stuff. It’s supposed to remove the sludge on the plunger thingy in the injector.
 
Try some hot shots secrets in the oil. I’ve heard of a few injector issues clearing up with this stuff. It’s supposed to remove the sludge on the plunger thingy in the injector.

I was going to do Rev x in the oil, but the place didn't have it.

Never heard of hot shots secrets, you sure that's not something else? :flipoff2:
 
So, I'm guessing my issue was a blown HG and not the oil cooler. Coolant was down about a gallon and all nasty again. I'm guessing the white smoke was coolant, not un burnt fuel. I couldn't really smell anything in it either way.

Any ideas?
 
I used a super duty pump on mine. It's been on there 15 years or so.
 
Usually for homebrew setups people use napa spin on filters and adapters. Pump is a Bosch 044 Super Duty electric pump. The regulator at the engine can be the "tightwad" mod of cutting up your current fuel bowl, a Fuel Lab or similar regulator etc..

I used the Mark Fugazzotto kit that has everything pump, filters, lines, regulator, relays.. it uses a machined block with the factory regulator plunger/spring setup. I didn't have time to have my truck down figuring out the DIY route.
 
I use a Bosch 044 pump, with pre-filter and braided AN hose and fittings from tank to fuel bowl.

Much easier to deal with setup than the stock configuration (mostly).

Only thing I noticed, was that the rating for the fuel pressure springs no longer applied (e.g. gold, black, silver).

I took a gold, cut a small amount off of it, and it now sits about perfect at 65psi.

But, I get to pull my Full Force injectors again, and send them for some bench testing :shaking:
 
I'm gathering parts. Going to use the Bosch pump with a prefilter/water separator going to the stock filter bowl. What I'm hearing is there may be leaks at the stock bowl. Looking at the RACOR/Parker filter/ water separator setup with the built in primer pump. We'll see how that works. Pulling the bed to check condition of the fuel tanks. They both run out of fuel at 1/4 tank. Leaning toward the Baby Swamps with a chip. This is a farm truck that works for a living, most I've pulled on the road is probably 18k for a total combined weight of 24-25, nothing bid dumb loadish.
 
Plan for an intercooler with whatever you do. Injectors and tunes are great but things get toasty quick with hills. Had to downshift due to EGTs but had all the power I could want before the 6.0 intercooler.

Really like my baby swamps. Stock tune is tame and quiet, hot tunes are entertaining without blowing the transmission. Going on 15k miles without issues on them.

Bosch pump shouldn't have trouble priming, napa has spin on filters with built in water separator if that simplifies the adapters.

Filter #s 3367 and 3528 are what came with the MF setup
 
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I got one yesterday from a friend. Its a 96 eclb f250 4x4 5spd with kp60 and 202k miles. It has been sitting for a few years. My friend bought it from another friends dad It was a creampuff when he had it. It was white with a Cannonball Bale bed then. My other friend ran it into a fence or some drunk thing so my friend bought it but without the balebed. He put a regular bed on it another fender and door and spray painted it flat black. He did the axle swap once the ttb wore out. He drove it about 50k miles for a few years. Now he works out of town and lives in a rv so this thing has sat for a few years. Occasionally his brothers would come out and start it just to let it run.

I put new batteries in and jumpered the glow plug wires since the glow plugs relay was gone. It fired up after about 15-20 seconds of cranking and idled smooth without smoke after a few seconds.

A quarter mile from the house I hit about 45 and was witness to the worst death wobble I have ever encountered. I pulled over to make sure all the wheels were still on. I drove about 30 the rest of the way home. It will get a full rebuild on the front end. Tie rod ends, kingpins if needed, spring bushings and steering box and shaft if needed too.

It has a cel that comes on after driving a little ways then goes off then comes on again and goes off. My friend said it was a few years since he messed with it that it could be a cam sensor.

I tried the hvac- nothing no fan nothing. I tried the cruise control and nothing. These are 2 things I demand must work.

After I get the front end rebuilt and figure out the hvac I am going to go over it and change all the fluids and filters. What other maintenance should I do at 200k miles? Should I change the injectors or if it runs smooth without smoke are they fine for a while? What about waterpump? Is that something to change if it isnt giving any problems yet?

After this I will start on cleaning the interior up, and getting the hvac and cruise working. I have a 97 f150 I will pull the seats out if it since the drivers seat on this is wasted.

I have a Circle d flatbed on my Dodge I might put on. Not sure I haven’t decided yet. The only rust this truck has is a small spit right behind the back pass tire.

I think I will just try to get this thing reliable and then I will start on my Dodge build. Dont Ever Buy A Dodge - 93 D250 12valve Once the Dodge is usable I will do bodywork on this thing. Growing up my dad had a 97 F350 Powerstroke 4x4 5 speed with a day cab and Hydrabed. I learned to drive in that truck and have lots of good memories riding in it feeding cattle and going on vacations. He bought it new and it was Saddle color with tan interior with Alcoas he would only put on during the summer for vacation the only time it would get washed too. The rest if the year it had steelies on 235-85r16 mud tires and was covered in red mud. I miss that truck and this will remind me of it. At the same time they also had a 96 f250 460 auto exlb that was Also tan interior and Saddle paint color with 2 tone white strip. So I am very fond of these obs with that color combo.

E0E59EAA-B2F9-470D-8695-58F8ECB17033.jpeg

BE6633DF-D570-4268-A98C-C6DEFCE1CC19.jpeg

CA66DCC8-3E9F-41CB-BAC7-49EE6FD008CA.jpeg
 
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I got one yesterday from a friend. Its a 96 eclb f250 4x4 5spd with kp60 and 202k miles. It has been sitting for a few years. My friend bought it from another friends dad It was a creampuff when he had it. It was white with a Cannonball Bale bed then. My other friend ran it into a fence or some drunk thing so my friend bought it but without the balebed. He put a regular bed on it another fender and door and spray painted it flat black. He did the axle swap once the ttb wore out. He drove it about 50k miles for a few years. Now he works out of town and lives in a rv so this thing has sat for a few years. Occasionally his brothers would come out and start it just to let it run.

I put new batteries in and jumpered the glow plug wires since the glow plugs relay was gone. It fired up after about 15-20 seconds of cranking and idled smooth without smoke after a few seconds.

How cold was it out?

A quarter mile from the house I hit about 45 and was witness to the worst death wobble I have ever encountered. I pulled over to make sure all the wheels were still on. I drove about 30 the rest of the way home. It will get a full rebuild on the front end. Tie rod ends, kingpins if needed, spring bushings and steering box and shaft if needed too.

I just did a redhead box on mine, I bought a flaming faggot shaft, but returned it after it being seized and realizing that I'm not trusting my family's life in the hands of some tiny set screws. Lots of people having issues with them getting loose with time and eating up the splines on the steering box. Redhead recommends not using them.

My factory shaft had no play in the joints, but a lot in the shitty slip design. I took 2 1/4" grade 0 or whatever the shittiest bolts are. Drilled through the slip section in 2 spots and tightened them down made a huge difference.

My next step is to upgrade the tie rod and drag link. There are kits, but I'm going to try using 05+ SD tie rod and drag link, TrailTamer did this on his dodge with ford outters. I'm not sure it will clear leafs though.

It has a cel that comes on after driving a little ways then goes off then comes on again and goes off. My friend said it was a few years since he messed with it that it could be a cam sensor.

I tried the hvac- nothing no fan nothing. I tried the cruise control and nothing. These are 2 things I demand must work.

Hvac are vaccum controlled, the pump is under the ac, and the lines are super simple. I'd check all that. You'd probably know if you had no vaccum though as the brakes would be rock hard.

After I get the front end rebuilt and figure out the hvac I am going to go over it and change all the fluids and filters. What other maintenance should I do at 200k miles? Should I change the injectors or if it runs smooth without smoke are they fine for a while? What about waterpump? Is that something to change if it isnt giving any problems yet?

Glow plugs, valve cover harnesses and injector o rings would be good preventative, but also if the glow plugs are working fine, and there are no other issues in that area, it can wait.

My water pump had just started leaking at 340k...

Research your sca level and how to check it. I missed that years ago and it's what finally did in the 7.3.

Hydroboost was one of the best things I've done to mine, it's almost bolt on with F-superduty parts.

After this I will start on cleaning the interior up, and getting the hvac and cruise working. I have a 97 f150 I will pull the seats out if it since the drivers seat on this is wasted.

I have a Circle d flatbed on my Dodge I might put on. Not sure I haven’t decided yet. The only rust this truck has is a small spit right behind the back pass tire.

I think I will just try to get this thing reliable and then I will start on my Dodge build. Dont Ever Buy A Dodge - 93 D250 12valve Once the Dodge is usable I will do bodywork on this thing. Growing up my dad had a 97 F350 Powerstroke 4x4 5 speed with a day cab and Hydrabed. I learned to drive in that truck and have lots of good memories riding in it feeding cattle and going on vacations. He bought it new and it was Saddle color with tan interior with Alcoas he would only put on during the summer for vacation the only time it would get washed too. The rest if the year it had steelies on 235-85r16 mud tires and was covered in red mud. I miss that truck and this will remind me of it. At the same time they also had a 96 f250 460 auto exlb that was Also tan interior and Saddle paint color with 2 tone white strip. So I am very fond of these obs with that color combo.

Funny about the alchoas. Mine still have them, and I've been dealing with small brakes and not being able to go to 35s for ever because I like them a lot. I did find some 18s that look really close I might jump to if I end up swapping to F450 brakes.
 
How cold was it out?
It was in the 60s. It was puffing white smoke and tried to fire after about 30 seconds of cranking before trying it with the glow plugs.

I just did a redhead box on mine, I bought a flaming faggot shaft, but returned it after it being seized and realizing that I'm not trusting my family's life in the hands of some tiny set screws. Lots of people having issues with them getting loose with time and eating up the splines on the steering box. Redhead recommends not using them.

My factory shaft had no play in the joints, but a lot in the shitty slip design. I took 2 1/4" grade 0 or whatever the shittiest bolts are. Drilled through the slip section in 2 spots and tightened them down made a huge difference.

My next step is to upgrade the tie rod and drag link. There are kits, but I'm going to try using 05+ SD tie rod and drag link, TrailTamer did this on his dodge with ford outters. I'm not sure it will clear leafs though.
Good to know on the box.
Hvac are vaccum controlled, the pump is under the ac, and the lines are super simple. I'd check all that. You'd probably know if you had no vaccum though as the brakes would be rock hard.
The brakes worked fine. The fan motor did not kick on could be a fuse or who knows. I couldn’t hear if the flaps were moving.
Glow plugs, valve cover harnesses and injector o rings would be good preventative, but also if the glow plugs are working fine, and there are no other issues in that area, it can wait.

My water pump had just started leaking at 340k...

Research your sca level and how to check it. I missed that years ago and it's what finally did in the 7.3.

Hydroboost was one of the best things I've done to mine, it's almost bolt on with F-superduty parts.

Will look into that.
Funny about the alchoas. Mine still have them, and I've been dealing with small brakes and not being able to go to 35s for ever because I like them a lot. I did find some 18s that look really close I might jump to if I end up swapping to F450 brakes.

I wouldn’t mind a set of Mickey Thompson MT-II or Pro Comps if they are worth a crap. I like that look on these trucks. I will get 17s since my friend works at a dealer and used 16” tires have all but dried up. I dont like the brodozer 18s this thing has now the tires have good tread but are starting to crack.
 
It was in the 60s. It was puffing white smoke and tried to fire after about 30 seconds of cranking before trying it with the glow plugs.

It shouldn't need glow plugs till about 32* if the injectors are working correctly. Sitting for a long peird of time is a little different. 99% of time I would just hop in and crank mine. I laugh at the old men when watch the wait to start light when it's 70* out :laughing:

If yours needs glow plugs every time, something is up.

Good to know on the box.

The brakes worked fine. The fan motor did not kick on could be a fuse or who knows. I couldn’t hear if the flaps were moving.


Will look into that.


I wouldn’t mind a set of Mickey Thompson MT-II or Pro Comps if they are worth a crap. I like that look on these trucks. I will get 17s since my friend works at a dealer and used 16” tires have all but dried up. I dont like the brodozer 18s this thing has now the tires have good tread but are starting to crack.

The mt2s are close, but not quite right, imo.

I'd consider 18s for tow rig tire selection. Lots of narrow ~35s and even some 12 ply 35x12.50s from toyo. 17s are definitely better than 16s though.

I'm thinking these, although I'm not 100% sold on them, I think the flat face matches the alchoas better. They look a little bro just by themselves, but I've seen a fe on trucks and they look decent.

 
20210612_083644.jpg

17s look proportional with 315/70s. These are just cheap American Racing Baja 72 wheels.

Just put stock Alcoas and 235/85/16 Falken AT3s on, love the Falkens... miss the bigger tires but I have 4.10s and crap suspension.
20211108_165739.jpg
 
I'd rather have 17s, but the variety of high load rated tires in 18s is way better. 65 psi 35s will not work for me personally, even if they claim E rated.
 
Why you must to run more than 65 psi?

Larger tire = more surface area, less air pressure.

They just aren't enough for heavy shit. My Hankooks bulge more than I'd like with just a 100g fuel tank in the bed. I want a cab over and be able to pull my big trailer.

My buddy had issues with 65psi 35s on his dodge with a camper, said it felt super unstable and they wore quickly. He is the one who told me about the F rated toyos.

I think I was over 7k on the rear axle with my camper and just a light car trailer and stockish 4runner at the time.
 
Mine has an oil leak from where the dipstick tube goes into the pan. I figured it would be an easy fix when I change the oil. My friend at a Ford dealer laughed at me and said you have to pull the engine to fix it. Is he joking with me or what?
 
Mine has an oil leak from where the dipstick tube goes into the pan. I figured it would be an easy fix when I change the oil. My friend at a Ford dealer laughed at me and said you have to pull the engine to fix it. Is he joking with me or what?
Yes and no.

It's a dumb ass design and if you unscrew the outside piece, the piece inside will gall down. You have to pull the pan to correctly do it, you can't pull the pan with the engine in the truck as is. :homer:

IIRC, there is a trick to get the pan out by lifting the engine and some other fuckery and I feel like there is a trick to get the dip stick to seal without dropping the pan. I feel like I just tightened mine and it helped.

If you want a leak free 7.3, I'd suggest not putting any oil or fuel in it.
 
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