What's new

7.3 thread continued?

Guess you missed the post where i said it started yesterday :flipoff2:
Eat a bowl of dicks

:flipoff2:

Ya i missed that. U sure it not a starter/wiring issue?
 
Guess you missed the post where i said it started yesterday :flipoff2:
Eat a bowl of dicks

:flipoff2:

Ya i missed that. U sure it not a starter/wiring issue?
No, but I've hydrolocked shit a time or 2 and am fairly certain it was. Sounded really strong, but wouldn't budge if that makes any sense.

Also would be odd that it happened soon after the other stuff.

Kinda makes sense that an injector cup broke, maybe filled a cyl full of oil after it was shut off warm. Kinda sealed back up when it cooled off, then the oil eventually drained back into the crankcase.

I also remember my wife saying that it was blowing a little blue smoke when she was following me a while back. I told he "lalalalalala, don't want to hear it" :laughing:
 
So from what I read bad injector cups usually result in fuel in coolant, not oil. But for whatever reason it usually is black.

Now I'm not sure what's in my coolant :laughing: I didn't think to smell it.

I'm kinda hoping it's injector cups since I'm planning on new injectors anyway. Riff raff has nice stainless cups for like $160/set and you can rent the tool for pretty cheap.

I will say, whoever mentioned the VGT from DPS has me fucked up. :flipoff2:

I want to delete the ebpv while I'm in there, which means I'll need a real exhaust brake. When you ad up all the parts for that, a new turbo, new up pipes, ect, it's not that far off a T4 kit and the VGT unit.

Ive also rear rumors that DPS may be working on a kit for the 7.3.

Normally I'd like to keep things simple, but their turbo is all mechanical and seems pretty awesome.

Edit: just realized you don't get an exhaust brake function with the mechanical version :frown:
 
Last edited:
So the "while I'm there" has gotten bigger.... :laughing:

I've always had a cheap glowshift 3:1 gauge. Works OK, but the 2 digital readouts are so small and dim, they're basically useless. It also does wierd shit like the egt needle wigs out right when I need it.

Was kinda looking at the edge cts or whatever the newest version is. Nice that you can monitor a lot of things in one package. The alarms are nice as well. On the other hand, digital is hard to read for some things.

Came across the aeroforce interceptor. Seems like the best of both worlds. Mounts in a standard gauge hole but you can cycle through anything from the ob2 port. Then I'd run a analog egt and boost.

Anyone ha e anything good or bad to say about the edge or aeroforce?
 
I got the truck home and drained the coolant out. It's definitely oil, not fuel.

So I asked around, and found a good 7.3 mechanic locally. He was cool and spoke with me on the phone for a bit.

Like most said oil in coolant is 90% going to be the oil cooler. What I haven't read is that he said an external leak is bad o rings (what I did last time) oil in the coolant is an actual cartridge failure.

So I ordered the xdp oil cooler, it's cheaper than the factory one, but supposedly better. Comes with all Ford orimgs and gaskets.

Also, while I was thinking about spending ~$5k on all these engine up grades, I realized, this thing still drives like shit :laughing: I've fought the loose steering for a while, and I think gotten used to it, but it's very apparent when I go from one of our other vehicles to the truck. So I decided, I need to address the loose steering before I drop stupid money on making it go/tow faster.

Well the oil cooler is on the driver side, so why not do the steering box and shaft too. So I ordered a red head box and borgeson HD steering shaft. Fucking shaft better be awesome, it was more than the box:homer:

Will report back on how everything goes.
 
Considering that blank adapters are readily available for both the double D and 36spl ends of your steering shaft you were a foot to not just buy a pair of them and a PTO shaft from Tractor Supply or wherever. You'll like the fancy steering box though.
 
I got the truck home and drained the coolant out. It's definitely oil, not fuel.

So I asked around, and found a good 7.3 mechanic locally. He was cool and spoke with me on the phone for a bit.

Like most said oil in coolant is 90% going to be the oil cooler. What I haven't read is that he said an external leak is bad o rings (what I did last time) oil in the coolant is an actual cartridge failure.

So I ordered the xdp oil cooler, it's cheaper than the factory one, but supposedly better. Comes with all Ford orimgs and gaskets.

Also, while I was thinking about spending ~$5k on all these engine up grades, I realized, this thing still drives like shit :laughing: I've fought the loose steering for a while, and I think gotten used to it, but it's very apparent when I go from one of our other vehicles to the truck. So I decided, I need to address the loose steering before I drop stupid money on making it go/tow faster.

Well the oil cooler is on the driver side, so why not do the steering box and shaft too. So I ordered a red head box and borgeson HD steering shaft. Fucking shaft better be awesome, it was more than the box:homer:

Will report back on how everything goes.
If its not too late save some $ and go with bluetop box. Great service and just as good if not better. Myself and several guys on fte have great luck.
 
I guess redhead cut their price, interesting.

My understanding is the guy who started blue top worked at and left redhead after a run-in.
 
So, when you're doing up pipes and the bolt heads round off, be careful cutting them. Theres a manifold bolt hiding next to the top one on the P side.

20210905_200940.jpg



So, now I will be pulling the manifold to get that cut bolt out. Fun....
 
So, when you're doing up pipes and the bolt heads round off, be careful cutting them. Theres a manifold bolt hiding next to the top one on the P side.




So, now I will be pulling the manifold to get that cut bolt out. Fun....
OOOOOppppppssssss. I need to do the steering on mine too. It's never ending. When I do I oughta bump the pressure on the pump a bit, as ford has always had shitty power steering.
 
Mine has plenty of power, snapped that sector shaft right off.
 
Well I'm in the middle of fixing/upgrading all the previously mentioned shit.

Borgeson shaft is garbage, I sent it back. The slip section was siezed, and even if it wasn't, the lazy set screw design is junk over the oem clamping style.

I'm trying to flush the rad system, but even with a few times of simple green, there is still oil sludge in there. I decided to just replace the degas bottle and all hoses. Going to try an aluminum bottle of ebay, as it was about the same price as a plastic replacement.

Also have a new pedal assembly on the way. Mine was just wore the fuck out and a new one wasn't expensive.
 
Finally getting my 97 powerstroke towing like I want. Needed to address the usual issues everyone has and with 230k miles some maintenance. 100% loved my 2 99 7.3's towing so I wanted to get my OBS to that same spot.

Intake- 6637 filter with PVC elbow and RiffRaff silicone coupler after CCV
Injectors- 150cc Baby Swamps
Tuning- Hydra with Swamps tunes
Trans- Roadrunner Billet triple disk converter and 6.0 cooler (never goes above 160 degrees)
Intercooler- OBS Solutions intercooler brackets, 6.0 Intercooler, RiffRaff Boots/clamps, Banks pipes and intake spyder.
Turbo- RiffRaff "hybrid" turbo, uses EBPV deleted E99 pedestal/SD cartridge so turbo removal is easy with 2 bolts from the top, Billet wheel and 1.0 housing.
Fuel- Mark F. E-Fuel kit.

I don't tow many big dumb loads, mostly 1 rig on a 20ft gooseneck so we'll call it less than 10,000lbs but right in the mountains of WV, KY, NC, TN and VA. Single best upgrade has been the intercooler, used to be out of OD for every grade and down to 2nd on all mountains. Now its just let the turbo spool and up you go.

Its no diesel bro and the intercooler/turbo setup cleans up all smoke when in a tow tune. HPOP keeps up in everything but the "race" tune when matted for 20 seconds or so. Intercooler brackets are pretty simple to make but the OBS Solutions setup is the easy button... I just wanted it to work getting ready for a trip, the way they designed the brackets is pretty clever to mount your trans cooler and make room to actually tighten boots by changing the radiator mount setup.

Love the resurgence of parts for the OBS trucks... hate the popularity with pricing. Gaining VGT with an exhaust brake would be awesome if the electronics can be made durable. I sold a 15 Cummins 6 speed truck because it towed worse than my 7.3 super duties but do miss the exhaust brake and VGT low rpm spooling.
 

Attachments

  • 20211021_152255.jpg
    20211021_152255.jpg
    1.1 MB · Views: 24
  • 20211021_155256.jpg
    20211021_155256.jpg
    952.4 KB · Views: 27
Last edited:
How?

Sound like the Ram was broken.
Fair question. I bought the Ram new off the lot in 2015 CCLB 6.7 with G56, between torque management and detuning of the manual trans Rams it was a pig when you hit a hill towing 7,000lbs. Just when it needed to spool and hold a gear it would pull back and have to downshift. A tune and a clutch would have probably solved it but for nearly $50k worth of truck... nah. Had it 2 years and 80k miles and went straight into my 97 OBS truck. Loved it in every way except climbing hills towing and paying for it.

It did have better steering, brakes, gauges... basically everything else than the early super duties. So its towing ability vs. payment wasn't worth it as a better description. My dad's 2014 6.7 auto truck was way better than my standard trans truck was so there's that.

Had a 99 24v Cummins I hated towing with too, guess I'm the minority.
 
Last edited:
Fair question. I bought the Ram new off the lot in 2015 CCLB 6.7 with G56, between torque management and detuning of the manual trans Rams it was a pig when you hit a hill towing 7,000lbs. Just when it needed to spool and hold a gear it would pull back and have to downshift. A tune and a clutch would have probably solved it but for nearly $50k worth of truck... nah. Had it 2 years and 80k miles and went straight into my 97 OBS truck. Loved it in every way except climbing hills towing and paying for it.

It did have better steering, brakes, gauges... basically everything else than the early super duties. So its towing ability vs. payment wasn't worth it as a better description. My dad's 2014 6.7 auto truck was way better than my standard trans truck was so there's that.

Had a 99 24v Cummins I hated towing with too, guess I'm the minority.
I can see why you like yours

I have a lly/duramax Allison and am happy towing 8k around, though I'm always worried I'm going to break something expensive...I need tuning and egt gauge before I can rest easy.

My p pump nv4500 fummins was a beast, but shitty brakes and steering
I rode shotgun in a 7.3 6 speed super duty, really well built, towing probably 10k 900 miles, and was fucking impressed:smokin:

I have dabbled very little in the 7.3, but after that road trip I am looking forward to bringing a 95 f250 5 speed 4wd I have back into duty
 
Well I'm in the middle of fixing/upgrading all the previously mentioned shit.

Borgeson shaft is garbage, I sent it back. The slip section was siezed, and even if it wasn't, the lazy set screw design is junk over the oem clamping style.

I'm trying to flush the rad system, but even with a few times of simple green, there is still oil sludge in there. I decided to just replace the degas bottle and all hoses. Going to try an aluminum bottle of ebay, as it was about the same price as a plastic replacement.

Also have a new pedal assembly on the way. Mine was just wore the fuck out and a new one wasn't expensive.
Cascade dish detergent, pre mix it in a gallon rinse and repeat.
Block the radiator with cardboard.
 
On coolant whats the practical consensus for the OBS trucks?

Looking at the info out there the OBS trucks had retaining compound on the injector cups that doesn't play nice with the "Final Charge" extended life stuff that's SCA free. So recommendations were for standard SCA water mix coolant unless you replaced injector cups with modern compound.

Supposedly with the SD platform change In Late 99 they started using a different cup retainer compound that can use the extended life stuff. (good catch Levigarrett76 )

I read it on the internet.. it has to be true..

On the cooling R&R I did a while back I bought the premix SCA stuff but a recent vacuum pump failure caused 3 gallons to puke out and I need to either add SCAs to the plain yellow 50/50 mix I had to throw in on the road or drain it all for something else to prevent the cavitation erosion.
 
Last edited:
Best buy ive found is the pink fleet charge thats sold a tractor supply. Has the SCAs in it already.
 
Best buy ive found is the pink fleet charge thats sold a tractor supply. Has the SCAs in it already.
ive always run this in my obs 7.3. havent had any problems yet. i recharge the SCAs with napa kool in a white bottle and use fleetguard test strips.
 
the cup sealant was affected by 2-eha that was in oat coolants, right? I'm noticing that some oat coolants now say that they are 2-eha free. Seems like thats the way to go now, beacause then you dont have to worry about SCAs
 
Top Back Refresh