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7.3 thread continued?

YotaAtieToo said:
I'm not chasing big boost by any means. Although the little 12v I had for a bit hit like 53 before I adjusted the waste gate down, that was fun :laughing:

Stock 97 injectors are pretty pitiful, even compared to 99-03. Mine a 90cc, iirc most SD are 120, and I think 03 was 130?

I've even contemplated getting new injectors for an 03, and then custom tunes for split shots, but I'm. Not even sure if that works that way. :laughing:
Click to expand...
1994-97 7.3L use 98cc AA code single shots
1997 California and early 1999 models use 120cc AB code split shots
Late 1999-2003 use 140cc AD code injectors
 
Levigarrett76 said:
1994-97 7.3L use 98cc AA code single shots
1997 California and early 1999 models use 120cc AB code split shots
Late 1999-2003 use 140cc AD code injectors
Click to expand...
Man, I swear there was a slightly bigger injector for some 02 and 03 trucks? I can't find anything on it though :homer:


I did find that there IS a factory 160cc single shot injector that IH used. I will probably go that route when the time comes.
 
Nah, but they did up the hp in 01 to 250 auto and 275 manual, not enough to notice though.

You are correct on the 160's. Known as alliant "AC" codes.

In my opinion, if your going to put injectors in, and tunes, put in hybrid 238/80s from a smaller outfit like rosewood or bitterroot. Tune it back to hp of your liking and profit.

Its kind of like a p7100...you can dial it back to match turbo/drivetrain, but youll have enough hp to "grow" later with a tune if you decide to make some changes..
 
Levigarrett76 said:
Nah, but they did up the hp in 01 to 250 auto and 275 manual, not enough to notice though.

You are correct on the 160's. Known as alliant "AC" codes.

In my opinion, if your going to put injectors in, and tunes, put in hybrid 238/80s from a smaller outfit like rosewood or bitterroot. Tune it back to hp of your liking and profit.

Its kind of like a p7100...you can dial it back to match turbo/drivetrain, but youll have enough hp to "grow" later with a tune if you decide to make some changes..
Click to expand...

I remember a big debate on pbb about detuned hybrids actually being easier on the hpop than basic "stage 1s"

I have really had great luck with this truck leaving it mostly stock. I'd honestly probably be fine with non leaking up pipes, a decent turbo and new AA injectors. But no way I'm putting those back in for the same money.
 
1Sinner said:
I'm running a 2001 within s300x kc, 160/30s, 4 line fuel feed, hpop crossovers, billet plenums, bellowed up pipes, 6.0 intercooler, mishimoto trans cooler and a 4" turbo back. Hydra tuner and I forget who's tunes (whoever kc recommended about a year and half ago). Truck runs great, pulls my fully loaded weekend warrior (at 14-15k) well. I still need to drop in the 4.30 gears I have on my shelf (currently on 35s and 3.73s with a zf-6)

The only thing I can't stand is that the pedal is so sensitive (even on the tow tunes) it makes it hard not to be jerky with a Manual during take offs and up shifts. Especially unloaded.

Glad to hear people regularly hit 30psi with no issues. I know I've pegged my boost gauge (35psi+) a couple times and it makes me uncomfortable. Those with manuals and lots of work, who's tunes seem to run the best or a simple way to decrease pedal sensitivity? What egts fully loaded and climbing are you guys seeing?
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I'm running the identical setup essentially (300x 63/68 with FF 160/30s, fuel upgraded, crossovers, etc.), but I feel the tunes could be...better.

Just putzing around in the daily driver tune...if I get on it at ALL, I'm blowing smoke. Overall, a bit smokier tunes than I'd like.

I pulled great last long tow (February), and haven't had a chance to since.

I've looked into other tuners (e.g. Jelibilt) but hard pulling the trigger for $300+ worth of tunes.

Levigarrett76 said:
Kc probably recommended you andrew at aa tuning. He will revise the tunes for you. Pm me ill shoot you his #

I wouldnt recommend 1023 i did not like how they ran in my truck nor the lack of customer service
Click to expand...

Yeah, I reached out to 1023 for some questions/support...and it's been crickets.
 
Freerider15 said:
I'm running the identical setup essentially (300x 63/68 with FF 160/30s, fuel upgraded, crossovers, etc.), but I feel the tunes could be...better.

Just putzing around in the daily driver tune...if I get on it at ALL, I'm blowing smoke. Overall, a bit smokier tunes than I'd like.

I pulled great last long tow (February), and haven't had a chance to since.

I've looked into other tuners (e.g. Jelibilt) but hard pulling the trigger for $300+ worth of tunes.



Yeah, I reached out to 1023 for some questions/support...and it's been crickets.
Click to expand...
Could you list more specifics on your truck? trans, tires, gears etc? how is spool before 2000 rpm? how would you compare that turbo to stock? Did you swap injectors after the turbo? Did the turbo run ok with stock injectors?
 
Levigarrett76 said:
Could you list more specifics on your truck? trans, tires, gears etc? how is spool before 2000 rpm? how would you compare that turbo to stock? Did you swap injectors after the turbo? Did the turbo run ok with stock injectors?
Click to expand...
1999.5 7.3L, ZF-6, 150k miles. 285/75R17's, stock gears.

I put Full Force 160/30s and a KC 300x 63/68 after talking with several companies (Full Force, KC, 1023, etc.) in February of this year. Talked with Dusty a bit, and he said I could throw larger injectors (e.g. 205/30s) and all that in...but unless I just wanted a faster daily driver, the point become moot for towing. Over 350-375ish HP, one would be stressing the 7.3L enough that internal (e.g. $$$) work would be needed, and even then costs are hard to justify.

Injectors and turbo were stock before. It still pulled well enough, but I wanted more living in CO and driving (towing) over passes regularly.

Before those were done, the following had all been done: PHP Hydra, Boost/Pyro/Fuel Pressure Gauges, Ford AIS Filter, RiffRaff HPx and FRx, Intercooler boots, Riffraff Boost Fooler, WW2, etc. Basically most everything had been gone through prior to turbo and injectors.

Overall, it tows a bit better. I did have what turned out to be an injector o-ring issue rear its ugly head (7.3L Gurus Needed...Truck Running Issues) but got that fixed. After redoing that and a hot torque of the injector bolts, the thing idles smoother than my XJ...pretty crazy.

Truck spools up a lot quicker, but sweet spot for hitting it is still a little over 2k RPMs. I was able to hold cruise at 75-80mph about 75% of the way home from Sand Hollow to Fort Collins, CO. Last time, that would have required me dropping into 4th a bit more on the longer climbs.

Right now I'm running 1023 tunes, but they're a bit smokier than I'd like. Haven't gotten any reply from reaching back out, and have contemplated looking into other tunes (e.g. Jelibuilt, SDK, Tony Wildman, etc.). If tunes didn't cost so dang much, I'd be less hesitant to try. Unfortunately not many around who do it anymore, but I'd love for some live tuning to really tune it to a peak.
 
Thanks for sharing.

Do you ever have issues with hpo falling in hotter tunes??

So you never ran that turbo with the stock injectors?
 
I rebuilt my HPOP a few years ago, but no issues so far.

That being said, I've never put it in "hot" tunes, since if I'm not towing, it sits in the daily tune. I might give them a try at some point for shits and giggles, but that's about it.

Yeah, never ran this turbo with stock sticks.
 
I'm watching this, I've got a couple obs 7.3 trucks on the back burner ( bought, driven a few miles and waiting in cue )my current tow rig is a lly/ Allison gm, and I was planning a 12v Cummins zf6 for a future tow rig, but this weekend I rode shotgun in a 7.3 super duty with a 6 speed pulling 9k for 700 miles, it had some upgrades, nothing crazy, more of a thorough mild build, I was really impressed by the power, and while we didn't calculate mileage, it seemed pretty decent.
I'm starting to consider one of these...
 
Freerider15 said:
I rebuilt my HPOP a few years ago, but no issues so far.

That being said, I've never put it in "hot" tunes, since if I'm not towing, it sits in the daily tune. I might give them a try at some point for shits and giggles, but that's about it.

Yeah, never ran this turbo with stock sticks.
Click to expand...
I've run mine in the hot tunes a couple times. With the zf-6 and an upgraded clutch, it's damn near undriveable. Shit loads of power, shitloads of smoke and I personally (even speed shifting, no clutch) can barely keep up the the motor rowing the gears. Fun-ish in 5th and OD. That's about it.

Mine stays in daily driver economy tune, or one of 2 tow tunes all the time. I have no reason to hot rod my pulling truck.

As far as mileage and power is concerned, pulling my loaded weekend warrior 35ft toyhauler at 14-16k. No issues climbing a 6% grade doing 55-60 (stupid commiefornia low speed limits while towing) as long as I keep it at 25-2700 rpm. Power wise it will pull a house unless you lose your momentum and you're screwed.

Mileage wise, I've seen 20mpg unloaded on a good day, 10 towing flat and heavy, pulled a grade the other day all the way from pismo Beach uphill to tehachapi most of the way and saw 6.75mpg all uphill. Not terrible.
 
Freerider15 said:
Over 350-375ish HP, one would be stressing the 7.3L enough that internal (e.g. $$$) work would be needed, and even then costs are hard to justify.
Click to expand...

I was always under the impression factory forged rods/bottom end was good for 400hp.
 
1Sinner said:
I've run mine in the hot tunes a couple times. With the zf-6 and an upgraded clutch, it's damn near undriveable. Shit loads of power, shitloads of smoke and I personally (even speed shifting, no clutch) can barely keep up the the motor rowing the gears. Fun-ish in 5th and OD. That's about it.

Mine stays in daily driver economy tune, or one of 2 tow tunes all the time. I have no reason to hot rod my pulling truck.

As far as mileage and power is concerned, pulling my loaded weekend warrior 35ft toyhauler at 14-16k. No issues climbing a 6% grade doing 55-60 (stupid commiefornia low speed limits while towing) as long as I keep it at 25-2700 rpm. Power wise it will pull a house unless you lose your momentum and you're screwed.

Mileage wise, I've seen 20mpg unloaded on a good day, 10 towing flat and heavy, pulled a grade the other day all the way from pismo Beach uphill to tehachapi most of the way and saw 6.75mpg all uphill. Not terrible.
Click to expand...
Yeah, that's the thing about a ZF-6 that is good/bad.

I can get up to the speed of each gear real quick, but the ZF-6 is geared so low that no matter how much HP you have, you're still limited by the time it takes to row the gears. The bigger benefit is being able to get up to speed when loaded.

My overall goal, was to be able to tow a crawler hauler (30' GN with and Artic Fox 1140 on the front, loaded with buggy) similar to my 10k 18' flatbed trailer with buggy when in "stock" form. Being able to haul that and maintain 55 up grades...I'll be happy. Wanting to avoid the 25-30 mph creeps up the hills...since yeah...shifting = loosing ALL boost = really sucks.

A built auto would be really really really nice sometimes over the ZF-6.
TRINDU said:
I was always under the impression factory forged rods/bottom end was good for 400hp.
Click to expand...

Good for...yes. But when stressing it with towing...the heat, RPMs, etc. start to stress the system. Keeping it at 350-375 when towing, keeps you within some safety margin. In hot tune and such I wouldn't be surprised to be over 400HP, but as Dusty at 1023 put it (and some others)...do you want numbers, or do you want to build it based on what you're using it for?
 
Mine lives in tow tune. Tried one of the performance tunes, cant shift fast enough to make it worth it.


And for the guy speed shifting it, that's mighty brave of you LOL.

Turbo on mine just shit itself so it looks like it is getting and upgrade. Was pretty happy with the WW2 but it would be nice if it spooled a little sooner. Still considering the VGT one from DPE.
 
bdkw1 said:
Mine lives in tow tune. Tried one of the performance tunes, cant shift fast enough to make it worth it.


And for the guy speed shifting it, that's mighty brave of you LOL.

Turbo on mine just shit itself so it looks like it is getting and upgrade. Was pretty happy with the WW2 but it would be nice if it spooled a little sooner. Still considering the VGT one from DPE.
Click to expand...
Shifts way smoother than hammering that clutch every time. Ask any rig driver that rows the boat. Clutches are for starts, stops and downshifts. Get it rolling, put a little pressure on the stick, roll off the throttle and it slides like James Brown into that next gear.:smokin:
 
1Sinner said:
Shifts way smoother than hammering that clutch every time. Ask any rig driver that rows the boat. Clutches are for starts, stops and downshifts. Get it rolling, put a little pressure on the stick, roll off the throttle and it slides like James Brown into that next gear.:smokin:
Click to expand...
That's fine in a heavy duty truck but the synchros will hate you on anything else.
 
1Sinner said:
Forging ended in 99-ish
Click to expand...
Thats a dammed can of worms right there. Overall yes, but ford continued to do like they do and randomly drop them in engines the next two years also.

I think the pmr's will hold up fine to the levels we are talking if you have tunes that are cylinder pressure friendly especially below 2000 rpm.
 
arse_sidewards said:
That's fine in a heavy duty truck but the synchros will hate you on anything else.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I've heard that as well from quite a few builder and even an engineer who worked on the ZF-6.

But hell...my truck has now had three trans in it (only once under me)...and I don't do that...so meh.
 
bdkw1 said:
Mine lives in tow tune. Tried one of the performance tunes, cant shift fast enough to make it worth it.


And for the guy speed shifting it, that's mighty brave of you LOL.

Turbo on mine just shit itself so it looks like it is getting and upgrade. Was pretty happy with the WW2 but it would be nice if it spooled a little sooner. Still considering the VGT one from DPE.
Click to expand...

More on this? I'd love a vgt, would save me the $1000 on the exhaust brake
 
www.ford-trucks.com

FTN's T4/SXE Build/Conversion Thread - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel - FTN's T4/SXE Build/Conversion Thread - The time has come for this to have its own thread. This project started over a year ago when I read Sous ' thread...
www.ford-trucks.com

cliff notes, it eventually worked, their product is still in development stages, cost him a turbo. Actuator still isnt right, they cant make it right because, covid. So they gave him a mechanical actuator for the time being.

 
1Sinner said:
Forging ended in 99-ish
Click to expand...

My 2001 (08/00 build date) has forged rods.

Freerider15 said:
A built auto would be really really really nice sometimes over the ZF-6.


Good for...yes. But when stressing it with towing...the heat, RPMs, etc. start to stress the system. Keeping it at 350-375 when towing, keeps you within some safety margin. In hot tune and such I wouldn't be surprised to be over 400HP, but as Dusty at 1023 put it (and some others)...do you want numbers, or do you want to build it based on what you're using it for?
Click to expand...

Just regurgitating what I've been told by other shops. I really want to throw down on a set of single shot hybrids and a T4. I want one god damn tune though. No switch, no dozen different settings. A set it and forget it 800 ft lb tow tune would be perfect.

I have a 'built auto' and it's great except I wish I had a split between direct and O/D. A .85ish would be great with my 3.73s and 285s. More power may have me thinking different. Never needed more gear between 1 & 3.
 
Levigarrett76 said:
1994-97 7.3L use 98cc AA code single shots
1997 California and early 1999 models use 120cc AB code split shots
Late 1999-2003 use 140cc AD code injectors
Click to expand...
do you know which one of these a '98 e350 would fall into?

i would assume the earlier model stuff?
 
YotaAtieToo said:
More on this? I'd love a vgt, would save me the $1000 on the exhaust brake
Click to expand...

www.dieselpowersource.com

Turbonator® VGT Turbo for Dodge 5.9 Cummins & 6.7 Cummins S300 & S400

Reach the full potential of your Dodge Cummins 5.9 & 6.7 with our Turbonator® VGT upgrade. Designed for the S400 turbo platform, this advanced variable geometry turbo ensures faster spool-up, enhanced performance, and exhaust brake capabilities. Experience the power of precision engineering!
www.dieselpowersource.com www.dieselpowersource.com

There is a guy on youtube with one on a 7.3. Looks like a killer setup. Just $$$$$.

Rods, like most things Ford parts related, they used whatever they had on hand. There will be no clear cut cross over date. My 2000 has forged rods. A buddies late 99 did not. Guessing it took almost a year to get the new line up to speed to completely change over.


 
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