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2022 F250 7.3l metal in filter.

My understanding it that this process through the BBB is how lemon law is handled in certain states. Maybe not. I was sent to the BBB from the states attorney general office website.
 
DMG said:
Lemon law isnt that easy if the manufacturer fights it and he has zero repair attempts. He has 1 PNF and an oil change.
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I have one repair attempt, they replaced oil pump drive gears and exhaust manifolds, catalytic converters. This was the 27 days in the shop.
 
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Chkn said:
It is. Any time a repair order is written it is considered a repair attempt. Even if no repair was made to correct the vehicle. 35 days out of service is an easy win because that meets the criteria for a substantial impairment to the use of the vehicle.
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No. Problem not found ROs do not qualify.
 
DMG said:
So if I have buyers remorse I can take my car to the dealer with a made up problem 3 times and they have to buy it back? The lemon laws are state specific, btw.
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You aren't supposed to but yes. The three criteria that the arbitrators and the state lemon law boards look for are significant impairment to the use, value and safety of the vehicle. If you can argue any one of those three and get the arbitrator to agree then you have won.

State Lemon law is heavily consumer biased. Third party arbitrations like BBB and NCDS are more fair towards the manufacturer because the manufacturer pays for the arbitration.

Covecrawler What state are you in?
 
Chkn said:
You aren't supposed to but yes. The three criteria that the arbitrators and the state lemon law boards look for are significant impairment to the use, value and safety of the vehicle. If you can argue any one of those three and get the arbitrator to agree then you have won.

State Lemon law is heavily consumer biased. Third party arbitrations like BBB and NCDS are more fair towards the manufacturer because the manufacturer pays for the arbitration.

Covecrawler What state are you in?
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BBB is a bullshit private org. It is Yelp for boomers. Businesses don't have to join it or interact with it at all. If there is an arbitration clause, it isn't with BBB.

Lemon Law buybacks happen one of two ways. With the cooperation of the manufacturer and dealer or with litigation.
 
DMG said:
BBB is a bullshit private org. It is Yelp for boomers. Businesses don't have to join it or interact with it at all. If there is an arbitration clause, it isn't with BBB.
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You are correct. Different manufacturers partner with arbitration groups to help settle disputes. It’s cheaper for the manufacturer to use BBB or the National Center for Dispute Settlement (NCDS) to settle disputes with customers then have to litigate every single case at State Lemon Law or to be sued directly by the customer.
 
I have been following this from the beginning. Hopefully you will win. I have been a ford most of my life but now considering a Ram or used Tundra. My 2018 f-150 has needed too many repairs for only 112k miles. I bought it at 92k. It needed a starter (no big deal). Cam phaser and some transmission work under warranty. The screen computer craped out (not a big deal $300 for a rebuilt one and 1 hr to replace). And not the transmission just started shifting erratically. Probably need the CDF drum which is a basically a trans rebuild.
I have warranty for another 3.5 weeks so hopefully it will be covered. While I haven’t been out of pocket for much before 115k miles the truck has needed 10,000 of work and that is too much. Ford has lost whatever quality it had. Maybe Ram isn’t better but I am getting close to giving them a shot.
 
mjlogan88 said:
Sounds like your issue is lifters being that there is metal in the oil.

But since were talking about mystery ticks, my 6.2 ticked like crazy and I traced it down to the actuator for the variable intake runner length valve deal. It sounded like total valvetrain destruction and then once I unplugged that solenoid it went silent. Not sure if the 7.3's have the same failure prone nonsense.
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I’m getting a new work truck, today matter of fact, and it was supposed to be an F350 dually with the 7.3, but when we asked the dealer we were getting it from we were told Ford never built it. So being a government entity the money set aside for that one had to be spent so now I’m getting a Chevy 3500 dually with the Duramax. So after reading this thread I’m not sure if I should be glad I didn’t get the 7.3 or not. My current truck has the 6.2 and that fucker drives me nuts with the ticking so now I know wtf it is I’m gonna leave it ticking for the next sap that gets it.
 
BillyBronco said:
I have been following this from the beginning. Hopefully you will win. I have been a ford most of my life but now considering a Ram or used Tundra. My 2018 f-150 has needed too many repairs for only 112k miles. I bought it at 92k. It needed a starter (no big deal). Cam phaser and some transmission work under warranty. The screen computer craped out (not a big deal $300 for a rebuilt one and 1 hr to replace). And not the transmission just started shifting erratically. Probably need the CDF drum which is a basically a trans rebuild.
I have warranty for another 3.5 weeks so hopefully it will be covered. While I haven’t been out of pocket for much before 115k miles the truck has needed 10,000 of work and that is too much. Ford has lost whatever quality it had. Maybe Ram isn’t better but I am getting close to giving them a shot.
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You are making me nervous about my 2018 with 131k. Is yours an EB?
 
DMG said:
You are making me nervous about my 2018 with 131k. Is yours an EB?
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Nope, 5.0 V8. I had a 2017 f-150 V8 and was underwhelmed by the power when towing. I wanted a 2.7 EB. The intardnet (including you) convinced me that the 2018+ V8 was a different animal. Originally I didn’t think so but when in tow haul mode and the transmission hits every gear it is better than the previous 2017. Still probably think I should have got the 2.7 EB but that wouldn’t have fixed the possible 10 speed issues If I went 2018+. I still think Ford is slipping on their quality control and/or design. Maybe everyone sucks. I get things break and need to be fixed but Ford hasn’t figured out the cam phasers after 20 years. I don’t get it. And the cost of rebuilding these new transmissions is crazy. The 10 speed is $8-10k to have rebuilt/replace (Thanks Obama). I miss the days of a $3k trans rebuilds. I can stomach that. But at $8k+ the analytical side of me starts wondering if it may be better to take a depreciation hit on something new to not be hit with outrageous repair bills. I have always fixed everything myself when out of warranty except for internal transmission. So I am not use to high repair bills.
 
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BillyBronco said:
Nope, 5.0 V8. I had a 2017 f-150 V8 and was underwhelmed by the power when towing. I wanted a 2.7 EB. The intardnet (including you) convinced me that the 2018+ V8 was a different animal. Originally I didn’t think so but when in tow haul mode and the transmission hits every gear it is better than the previous 2017. Still probably think I should have got the 2.7 EB but that wouldn’t have fixed the possible 10 speed issues If I went 2018+. I still think Ford is slipping on their quality control and/or design. Maybe everyone sucks. I get things break and need to be fixed but Ford hasn’t figured out the cam phasers after 20 years. I don’t get it. And the cost of rebuilding these new transmissions is crazy. The 10 speed is $8-10k to have rebuilt/replace (Thanks Obama). I miss the days of a $3k trans rebuilds. I can stomach that. But at $8k+ the analytical side of me starts wondering if it may be better to take a depreciation hit on something new to not be hit with outrageous repair bills. I have always fixed everything myself when out of warranty except for internal transmission. So I am not use to high repair bills.
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Mine has the original phasers. 5k oil change intervals help. 5w40 helps
Get an Oz tune and change the transmission fluid and filter. It will make a huge difference.
There are several companies selling reman 10 speeds for $4k. The Ford OEM is about $5k. R&R is 9 hours. But you probably don’t need a trans.
It likes to rev when towing. But it tows really well. The 3.5 EB tows better in hilly country but not much. And those aren’t reliable.

A Tundra with the 5.7 will be more reliable than any other full-size. At a cost of fuel economy and initial purchase price.
 
Behemoth13 said:
I’m getting a new work truck, today matter of fact, and it was supposed to be an F350 dually with the 7.3, but when we asked the dealer we were getting it from we were told Ford never built it. So being a government entity the money set aside for that one had to be spent so now I’m getting a Chevy 3500 dually with the Duramax. So after reading this thread I’m not sure if I should be glad I didn’t get the 7.3 or not. My current truck has the 6.2 and that fucker drives me nuts with the ticking so now I know wtf it is I’m gonna leave it ticking for the next sap that gets it.
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Just unplug the runner actuator. It’s on the passenger side of the intake man. Had mine unplugged when I still owned it cause it drove me nuts at idle
 
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