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2006 overland / light duty crawler build

fl0w3n said:
Didn’t you mess with exhaust and cats and O2 sensor? Maybe something around that work is causing the lean?
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I did but it’s been showing lean in banks 1 and 2 since a while before that, and it doesn’t throw a code for the o2 sensors, I put those spacers with the cat material built into them on the down stream sensors and they haven’t thrown a code since
 
Steve300xcw said:
For what I'm starting to see rigs with 6.2's sell for. I wonder if it would be worth even messing with that one.
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I’ve been thinking the same thing. What are you seeing price wise? Here for 4x4 6.2: $3500 for a clapped rot box but low miles, $7000 for needs cab corners and $12-15 for southern clean single cabs. Somewhere in there though is the odd one with a blown motor at 140k or 300k there’s usually a service body on those
 
BigBurt said:
I’ve been thinking the same thing. What are you seeing price wise? Here for 4x4 6.2: $3500 for a clapped rot box but low miles, $7000 for needs cab corners and $12-15 for southern clean single cabs. Somewhere in there though is the odd one with a blown motor at 140k or 300k there’s usually a service body on those
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No rust here..Most rigs I'm lookin at are in the 150k-200k mile range.

OBS single cab 460 trucks seem to start around $5k and go up
V10 rigs I'm starting to see a handful in the $5k-$10k range
6.2's I have seen as low as $8k but they seem to average $12k-14k for a single or extra cab. Just saw an '11 with 50k on it for 22k
 
I have
RockyDog1210 said:
It’s got a little over 190,000 miles on it and studders a bit off idle as well as at low rpm going up hill in other gears, feels good at higher rpm’s but it’s acting up, and I’m worried about it.

I replaced the spark plugs at 140k, put a new fuel pump and filter in a few months ago, and cleaned the throttle body recently. It’s running lean, and throwing a code for the pcv valve. I put a filter on top of the pcv valve and plugged the hole where it would otherwise connect to in the air intake, still running lean, can’t figure out what is going on. I’m getting tired of messing with it, but it would be great if I could get another 50 or 60k out of it
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I would look into the mass air flow sensor as I have had this exact issue happen on multiple 5.4 trucks. Its also a possible the cam phasers are failing/ gummed up or even loose chains.
 
so I recently changed the intake manifold gaskets, apparently I had a pretty bad vacuum leak, but now im getting a code for a bad o2 sensor, so im going to change that out and see how it goes
 
In other news, I just ordered a grip of parts that should be here in two weeks, including Carli coils, a pmf short arm 4 link kit, a shackle flip kit, pmf drag link, wfo 2 inch thick aluminum tie rod, brake lines, a Baja customs trac bar that replaces the ball joint at the axle end with a uniball, pmf diff covers, and parts for hydro assist.

I need to figure out where to tap the Superduty steering box for hydro assist, im planning on pulling it out and tapping it myself but not sure exactly where to tap it, I was hoping someone here might have the answer
 
Also I recently did ball joints and new shafts with the bigger 1550 u joints, the shafts were only like $200 per side fully assembled from spicer so figured why not upgrade to the bigger joints, these things are massive
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RockyDog1210 said:
In other news, I just ordered a grip of parts that should be here in two weeks, including Carli coils, a pmf short arm 4 link kit, a shackle flip kit, pmf drag link, wfo 2 inch thick aluminum tie rod, brake lines, a Baja customs trac bar that replaces the ball joint at the axle end with a uniball, pmf diff covers, and parts for hydro assist.

I need to figure out where to tap the Superduty steering box for hydro assist, im planning on pulling it out and tapping it myself but not sure exactly where to tap it, I was hoping someone here might have the answer
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id love to know. I'm using a 2011+ steering box on my SAS chevy. it turns the tires fine in the garage but im sure it will need assist when it hits the trail
 
wvracer821 said:
id love to know. I'm using a 2011+ steering box on my SAS chevy. it turns the tires fine in the garage but im sure it will need assist when it hits the trail
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I’ve already destroyed one steering box and I’m on my third power steering pump, I think it’s pretty much a requirement for any kind of longevity. Not to mention when I have the front end locked I better already be pointed in the direction I want to go, cause otherwise it’s not happening, won’t turn for shit
 
I've read recently that the 2011+ steering box is an upgrade for the 05-10 trucks, but requires a special steering shaft. I need to change the box on my truck, it was done around 80k miles and at 160k its loose, with mostly street driving on 35s :shaking:
 
RockyDog1210 said:
In other news, I just ordered a grip of parts that should be here in two weeks, including Carli coils, a pmf short arm 4 link kit, a shackle flip kit, pmf drag link, wfo 2 inch thick aluminum tie rod, brake lines, a Baja customs trac bar that replaces the ball joint at the axle end with a uniball, pmf diff covers, and parts for hydro assist.

I need to figure out where to tap the Superduty steering box for hydro assist, im planning on pulling it out and tapping it myself but not sure exactly where to tap it, I was hoping someone here might have the answer
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I tapped a 06 box about a year ago, haven't gotten around to installing it yet. pretty sure i had a post here about it.
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F***roads said:
I tapped a 06 box about a year ago, haven't gotten around to installing it yet. pretty sure i had a post here about it.
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Thanks for posting this, I’ve been hesitant about where to tap into it for the lines
 
Got my track bar in from Baja Customs, not sure why anyone would run anything else in these trucks after seeing this thing. Pure Beef. Put a 12oz can next to it, as well as a 105lb German shepherd for reference. He loves when I make him take pictures haha
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Still waiting on a bunch of parts, but I’m planning on running Taylor pass, and possibly Hancock pass this week so I installed the Carli springs, and the Baja customs track bar, as well as some cheap rough country n3 shocks. Went with shocks for a 3 to 4 inch lift, and made a 1inch bump stop spacer out of a hockey puck, ended up with about 10inches of travel. Plan to put a 1 inch coil spacer in later, and match the rear to that height as well, should look just right.

Now I knew it would drive better, but holy shit this thing rides like I never thought it could, very happy with it. So smooth, and I can’t believe how good the steering is, haven’t even put in the tie rod, drag link, or new tie rod ends yet. Mind = blown

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Rebuilt the rear leafs today and added a couple leafs out of the Carli add a leaf pack. The goal was to get a little more height without stiffening up the ride to much and it worked. Keep in mind I’ve already pulled the third largest leaf out of my oem pack. This is the lightest variation of this truck, and I feel like this is a nice balance.
 
The rear was sitting a little to high so I pulled out all this junk and now it should be sitting a little over an inch lower than it was. I’ll be pulling the OEM 2 inch blocks out when my shackle flip kit shows up
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Why the shackle flip? I did that to use cheap 63s (under sized and flat) and then put it back to tension when I bought decent packs. I would chose tension and block over compression shackle.

A comp setup can lower spring rate as it travels. Given you just added a leaf for weight, it seems backwards.
 
4X4 Santa dropped this off while I was out wheeling this week. Big shoutout to PMF, they have a pretty solid selection of parts for these trucks, and I’m very happy with what I’m looking at right now. (Aluminum tie rod is by WFO)
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rattle_snake said:
Why the shackle flip? I did that to use cheap 63s (under sized and flat) and then put it back to tension when I bought decent packs. I would chose tension and block over compression shackle.

A comp setup can lower spring rate as it travels. Given you just added a leaf for weight, it seems backwards.
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I added the extra leafs for a little weight, a little height, and a bit more progressive feel but it’s still a little firm, and after driving it over the weekend I’m thinking it should feel just right if the flip makes it a little softer. Keep in mind this is the lightest version of this truck, and nobody made anything with that in mind. The whole theme of this build is finding the sweet spot. If I decide I don’t like it I’ll change it
 
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