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2000 Ford F-550 Build

Levigarrett76

Zeus of the Sluice
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I agree, 6.7/6r140 is a beast. my tuned 2017 with 10k would probably outrun my slow ass tuned 2001 7.3 empty.

I also agree on semi, I was at aop for the ultra4 race this past weekend and saw alot of single and tandem axle older semi's. That would be the way to go. Med duty is slow and stiff!
 

06h3

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Yeah, old medium duty class 6-7 dont have shit for power and are hard to come by in 4wd from what I have seen. They are cheap but worse then 5.9s, 7.3s in relation to power to weight ratio and no 4wd sucks.

you can get an old semi that still is designed to haul 80k, sure it doesn’t have the power of a 2020 Semi but when your hauling around 30-40k it doesn’t matter.

new class 6-7 stuff is expensive and uses the same power train like a 6.7, I’m curious how it runs down the road.

One of the things I liked about the 550 is ease of adding 4wd (of course mine doesn’t have it stock) every damn year I spend time with a bubba rope pulling out Friends RVs on the lakebed, I have seen many semis stuck too. 4wd where I like to wheel/camp is a nice feature.

you can’t get that with a semi but the semi probably outweighs the pros of 4wd.
 

CarterKraft

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Weird how this is the only place I hear about cp4 failures. I know so many 6.7s just chugging along.

Sorry to break it to you, but that 6.7 will own your 7.3. Not just the engine, but the trans is just so much better.

If you want to upgrade, I'd go to something bigger, get an F650-750, equivalent or just go right to a semi. I think you're pushing even the F550 capacity with a trailer behind you.

The trans is a huge difference. The 4R100 was a great trans but it is nothing compared to the spreads of the 6R140 and I imagine the 10R is even more impressive.
 

06h3

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Weird how this is the only place I hear about cp4 failures. I know so many 6.7s just chugging along.

Sorry to break it to you, but that 6.7 will own your 7.3. Not just the engine, but the trans is just so much better.

If you want to upgrade, I'd go to something bigger, get an F650-750, equivalent or just go right to a semi. I think you're pushing even the F550 capacity with a trailer behind you.
That wouldn’t surprise me. I am a huge fan on 6-8-10 speed transmissions. I know another solid axle swapped H3 guy that swapped his 4 speed auto for a 6L80E. He said even though his motor stayed exactly the same (5.3) it felt like he did an engine swap, the truck was so much more drivable and always in the powerband. More gears the better, within reason. I am shocked at how slow the aftermarket is to allow standalone setups on these newer transmissions.
 

06h3

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Whoops, I quoted YotaAtieToo not CarterKraft . While I’m here lll mention the positive drive ability reviews from the 7.3 Allison 6 speed swap.
 

YotaAtieToo

Thick skull
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4wd on a truck that size does help, but if you're stuck in the sand or mud on the lake bed, I'd be surprised if the front tires pulled you through.
 

06h3

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YotaAtieToo

e1zGOv3l.jpg
 

YotaAtieToo

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Is that the one from Craigslist?

Could have said you were coming up, I would have maybe heckled you while you tried to cram that thing in your wife's car :flipoff2:
 

06h3

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Is that the one from Craigslist?

Could have said you were coming up, I would have maybe heckled you while you tried to cram that thing in your wife's car :flipoff2:
I didn’t get the one up by you, I got the 4 speed in Kennewick
 

06h3

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This 4 speed unit will follow the gear ratios I posted on the site a few posts back.

Since I have an auto, shifting will be done by “floating” the gears. I have seen it done with a bus conversion who had an Allison 5 speed auto with one of these behind it.

I still need 2 yokes, a way to setup the shift linkage, and a seal housing for the back.

I wish I had one complete but this one hasn’t been run. (Or so I’m told, and by looking at it I do believe it has had very little to no use) so that was the driver in this purchase.

I can get 2 yikes made to accept 1410 stuff or find some yokes on eBay they use the 1600,1700 or 1800 series yokes. As for the seal housing, I will get that online or scour some yards as I have heard they can still be found in Idaho, just in old rough shape.

it will primarily be used with the auto in overdrive then the aux box is .86:1, 1:1, or 1.21:1 so that gives me a combined .61:1 (double overdrive for unloaded) .71:1 overdrive for hauling around 70 mph and a very useful ratio to lessen the 3-4 split on the auto, a .86
 

'84 Bronco II

El Chingón
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The trans is a huge difference. The 4R100 was a great trans but it is nothing compared to the spreads of the 6R140 and I imagine the 10R is even more impressive.

The 10 speed is a game changer for sure; especially for the gas trucks.

*Thread Hijack

My cousin bought a new 2020 F350 6.7L (475HP bone stock :grinpimp:) with the 10 speed and I rode passenger out to Sand Hollow with him pulling this:
IMG_5338.jpg


That is right around 26,000Lbs gross (Truck, trailer, and slide-in alone weighed 18,900Lbs according to the CAT scale), and from the passenger seat, it felt like the truck was pulling about as well as my tuned & mildly modified 7.3L does just pulling my Bronco II :eek:. For reference, I gross right around 13,000 Lbs. pulling the Bronco II and my truck makes about 280HP at the wheels in my tow tune. He did get right around 6 MPG for most of the trip if I recall correctly though :laughing:

\Thread Hijack
 

GLTHFJ60

Stupid is as stupid does
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1946
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564
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Durham, NC
Damn, that's lighter than I thought it'd be. I'm about 25k gross with my setup loaded.

Looking forward to the brownie box install. It's going to be super cool to see in action.
 

06h3

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The 10 speed is a game changer for sure; especially for the gas trucks.

*Thread Hijack

My cousin bought a new 2020 F350 6.7L (475HP bone stock :grinpimp:) with the 10 speed and I rode passenger out to Sand Hollow with him pulling this:
View attachment 429047

That is right around 26,000Lbs gross (Truck, trailer, and slide-in alone weighed 18,900Lbs according to the CAT scale), and from the passenger seat, it felt like the truck was pulling about as well as my tuned & mildly modified 7.3L does just pulling my Bronco II :eek:. For reference, I gross right around 13,000 Lbs. pulling the Bronco II and my truck makes about 280HP at the wheels in my tow tune. He did get right around 6 MPG for most of the trip if I recall correctly though :laughing:

\Thread Hijack
That is a BADASS setup! I thought that would be more then 26k.
 

[486]

ass blaster
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pine city MN
Since I have an auto, shifting will be done by “floating” the gears. I have seen it done with a bus conversion who had an Allison 5 speed auto with one of these behind it.
it really ain't terrible to do, it'll be loud sometimes but that's kinda how mdt stuff is
you'll really have to try hard to wear it out while 'grinding em to find em'
 

YotaAtieToo

Thick skull
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This 4 speed unit will follow the gear ratios I posted on the site a few posts back.

Since I have an auto, shifting will be done by “floating” the gears. I have seen it done with a bus conversion who had an Allison 5 speed auto with one of these behind it.

I still need 2 yokes, a way to setup the shift linkage, and a seal housing for the back.

I wish I had one complete but this one hasn’t been run. (Or so I’m told, and by looking at it I do believe it has had very little to no use) so that was the driver in this purchase.

I can get 2 yikes made to accept 1410 stuff or find some yokes on eBay they use the 1600,1700 or 1800 series yokes. As for the seal housing, I will get that online or scour some yards as I have heard they can still be found in Idaho, just in old rough shape.

it will primarily be used with the auto in overdrive then the aux box is .86:1, 1:1, or 1.21:1 so that gives me a combined .61:1 (double overdrive for unloaded) .71:1 overdrive for hauling around 70 mph and a very useful ratio to lessen the 3-4 split on the auto, a .86

I would try to keep the auto in 3rd (1:1) and play with the box as much as possible when pulling grades.

Also, 0.86x4.88 is still only 4.20, so I wouldn't be afraid to run the box in OD when empty or light.



I really want one of these for my 97, I'll let you be the Guinea pig though :flipoff2:
 

06h3

Well-known member
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Member Number
2843
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300
Update:

I got the 50 gallon transfer tank in.

rS1is7ql.jpg


CLypY0ll.jpg


OZamAkrl.jpg


It is a transfer flow unit that came off my friends 2012 F450. He was doing a truck bed camper so sold this and will get an extended range tank that goes under the truck.

I called transfer flow and they said I can send them the little computer readout monitor in the last pic and they can reprogram it for a 2000 F 550 but I might just leave it and wire in a switch to dump fuel. If I wire it into the sending unit it does it automatically. All I care about is how many gallons are in the aux tank (which it still reads that) and then I can wire it in myself to a switch and take control over how much dumps into the main tank and when.

As for the Aux trans I am missing the cast seal housing on the one side so I need to track one down....that will be fun.

YTaTl1fl.jpg


Right now some cardboard is covering it. Then I need flanges and figure out a shifter so I can get that in.
 

arse_sidewards

Masshole
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71
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Worcester County
As for the Aux trans I am missing the cast seal housing on the one side so I need to track one down....that will be fun.

Right now some cardboard is covering it. Then I need flanges and figure out a shifter so I can get that in.
Unless you get lucky and happen across one for $50 or something like that you will be time and money ahead to just use a chunk of plate steel with holes drilled where needed and a bearing bore turned into it.
 

06h3

Well-known member
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Member Number
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Messages
300
Unless you get lucky and happen across one for $50 or something like that you will be time and money ahead to just use a chunk of plate steel with holes drilled where needed and a bearing bore turned into it.
That is a great point and I didn’t think about that. I will just need to make sure I can have a seal in there too.
 

arse_sidewards

Masshole
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I will just need to make sure I can have a seal in there too.
Ok, so turn two bores instead of one.

Seal manufacturer probably has info on their website that tells you what bore to shoot for and what the tolerance on the bore should be for a given product line and diameter.

Bearing bore should be a fairly tight slip fit but still an easy slip fit. The case aligns the bearing with the other bearings. The bore in the "tailhousing" (for lack of a better term) simply locates the tailhousing so that your seal bore is in line with the bearing and shaft.
 
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