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2000 Ford F-550 Build

I would spend that money on some live tuning.

You aren't shooting for the moon so you really shouldn't be pushing it to hard.
 
I would spend that money on some live tuning.

You aren't shooting for the moon so you really shouldn't be pushing it to hard.
I have been looking but cant find anyone local to do it. It seems most quality live tuners arent around anymore.

I did see DP tuner does live tuning and will fly out if he gets a group of people but thats all I have seen.
 
I don't think it'll read the pressure spikes correctly, reaction time might not be instantaneous enough

the OE solution is a piezoelectric sensor, there's a few different VW glow plugs that have them integrated, they're like a hundred bucks last I looked and you're kinda on your own making up a way to read them. I've seen one guy just using an oscilloscope, and treating it as a relative measurement, he was planning on running the timing maps up until the reading started to spike sharply, then back the timing off a bit
I don't think it went anywhere as that's a fuckton of datalogging

the way it is generally done is to reference engine torque output, as that is basically a roundabout way of reading cylinder pressure.
bump the timing until you stop gaining torque, then back off a couple degrees
another benefit of the dyno path is that you can accurately set up the torque limit maps so you don't shit the rods out the bottom when you accidentally lug it into 40 psi at 1500 rpm
from the bookmarks

I have no doubt that you could get an arduino to probably read one of those glow plugs using some sort of high speed datalogge and spit out a measurement on a screen, but at what amount of effort?
anyway, I remembered reading that.
 
Update: I reached out to Andrew Arthur for a 40Hp tow tune and an 80HP tow tune. Man, it rips! 1023 diesel tunes definitely seem tame which isn’t a bad thing necessarily, I want the truck to live a happy life towing heavy.

I’ve still had no luck with finding a local live tuner.

with all that said, I plan to do some more pulls soon and data log them so I can post them here but I am in need of another upgrade. Fuel system.

I noticed it when coming home from Utah, I had fuel pressure drop but it would come right back when letting off. It happened multiple times today on my old tunes and the new tunes. For 180/30 injectors I’m sure I’m fine just throwing another stock pump in there but I’m sure I could be told otherwise.

I’m assuming this pump is some cheap replacement or original. I’m running an entirely stock fuel system from the tank to the fuel bowl, only changes are the Diesel o rings FPR spring housing with a black 67-70 psi spring and braided AN fuel lines from the fuel bowl to the head. I have read up on the hutch and harpoon mod but idk if those apply to 550 behind the axle tanks or not.

any suggestions on what to do? I’m open to anything that improves reliability and ease of working on things when on the road, I don’t need fancy billet stuff for looks.

my next trip is 58 days away. Idaho to Fordyce Creek so plenty of grades with the big one going up the 80 by Tahoe, I’ll either be grossing 20k with the Hummer on the back or 28-29k with the Hummer on the back and towing a trailer with a Jeep on it so it’s time to get these things taken care of. This will also be the first trip in the heat so that will be interesting to see how EGTs react. I may need to clean the intercooler before the trip too.
 
I like the OEM Bosch pump because they are proven tough, easy to change and find replacements.
I always thought I would build a dual OEM pump system with check valves on the outlets to provide redundancy with added flow.
There are several versions of this on the web.
I like the Racor 100 mesh screen on the inlet and a CAT 2 Micron fuel filter on the outlet or keep the factory filter. This version has 3/8 female NPT ports but the -01 version has 1/2" ports if needed. This seperator makes it very easy to see what is happening in the fuel tank and has a easily serviceable screen.
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I did a do it yourself version of this. I think a good pump and this is all you need for fuel system.
 
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I will look into that. I was also told to look into the hutch and harpoon mod. I am not sure if the F550 behind axle tank is the same setup and need the same things as the 250/350 tanks in terms of those mods.
 
I will look into that. I was also told to look into the hutch and harpoon mod. I am not sure if the F550 behind axle tank is the same setup and need the same things as the 250/350 tanks in terms of those mods.
If it has the same "foot" on the in tank mixer then I would say yes to do the hutch mod because those plastic parts don't usually last at this age.
 
I haven't seen a need for the hutch or harpoon mods on my tank. I used to have an issue where the tank would run out of fuel if low (like 1/4-1/8 tank) and parked on a slight incline.

I had the rear tank delamination problem plague me for a while, and when I dropped the rear tank to put in a Titan tank, i found the pickup foot disentegrated and missing. I replaced it with a dorman unit (only thing avail short notice) and that low fuel pickup problem is now gone. Do the earlier F550s have the rear tank delamination problem as well?

The rear 450/550 tank at least doesn't have the fill problem, so the harpoon mod doesn't do anything. With the new foot, the hutch mod seemed redundant as well.

My reference is a 04 F550, so keep that in mind.
 
I haven't seen a need for the hutch or harpoon mods on my tank. I used to have an issue where the tank would run out of fuel if low (like 1/4-1/8 tank) and parked on a slight incline.

I had the rear tank delamination problem plague me for a while, and when I dropped the rear tank to put in a Titan tank, i found the pickup foot disentegrated and missing. I replaced it with a dorman unit (only thing avail short notice) and that low fuel pickup problem is now gone. Do the earlier F550s have the rear tank delamination problem as well?

The rear 450/550 tank at least doesn't have the fill problem, so the harpoon mod doesn't do anything. With the new foot, the hutch mod seemed redundant as well.

My reference is a 04 F550, so keep that in mind.
I have run mine down to 1/8 of a tank no problem, I had a no start issue one time where I was VERY LOW and was on a steep incline and let it sit overnight and had a no start issue but I even said to myself this is probably not a good idea when I did it so I dont blame the truck for that one.

I am not sure if they have delamination issues, one guy on FTE Forum said they are known for that and recommended the exact filter that CarterKraft mentioned above. Maybe I don't drop the tank, just run a new OEM pump and run that filter.

Another thing mentioned was that the FPR could be going bad, I looked and sure enough the fuel bowl rebuild kit does include stuff to rebuild the FPR so that has been untouched from a rebuild perspective.
 
The OEM filter on a 6.0 truck at least caught all the bullshit from the delaminating tank, and just caused a fuel starvation issue once clogged. Happened on the road one time, which was frustrating, but that was a filter change away from being fixed. Had I known then what I know now, I would have changed the tank out then and there, but the fuel starvation issue happened a second time a year later, same silvery garbage in the filter, and I made the connection.

Point is, adding a second filter is a good idea, but when the tank starts delaminating, there's SO MUCH garbage being sucked up the pickup that any filter will clog, given enough time. If your tank delaminates, it needs to be changed, regardless of the filters you have.

Titan tanks are expensive, but guaran-damn-tees that the delam problem, or rust, will never ever happen.

I think I have some pics of the fuel filters I took out when my tank was delaminating. If you have some pics of yours, we can compare to see if that's your cause of the pressure drop.
 
The OEM filter on a 6.0 truck at least caught all the bullshit from the delaminating tank, and just caused a fuel starvation issue once clogged. Happened on the road one time, which was frustrating, but that was a filter change away from being fixed. Had I known then what I know now, I would have changed the tank out then and there, but the fuel starvation issue happened a second time a year later, same silvery garbage in the filter, and I made the connection.

Point is, adding a second filter is a good idea, but when the tank starts delaminating, there's SO MUCH garbage being sucked up the pickup that any filter will clog, given enough time. If your tank delaminates, it needs to be changed, regardless of the filters you have.

Titan tanks are expensive, but guaran-damn-tees that the delam problem, or rust, will never ever happen.

I think I have some pics of the fuel filters I took out when my tank was delaminating. If you have some pics of yours, we can compare to see if that's your cause of the pressure drop.
Did you drop the tank to find out it was delaminating?
 
Did you drop the tank to find out it was delaminating?

No, the color and quantity of crap in the filter told me that it was happening. Dropping the tank, then looking inside, confirmed that's what was wrong.
 
Man, I was complaining about trying not to drop the tank but it was pretty damn easy! Every tank I have dropped before was a PITA and this one was a piece of cake so I was happy about that.

Here is what I found....

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Then on another note, I never checked the brakes since purchasing the truck....this previous owner didnt believe in maintenance

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and the damn drain plug was halfway out

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So it leaked and had fluid about this high....awesome....

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I noticed it was wet around the perches....

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Everything was intact, I was suprised at how little they welded the perches from the factory though.

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So what are your thoughts? The tank was red as hell, I was told that is some coating that was done after delamination occured and is a "fix" for this. Anyways, the pickup foot was gone, but other then that the fuel looked ok. I was told to those little in tank filters in the sending unit clog and that I should do the hutch mod and a racor filter on the framerail and see what the filter looks like after some miles.

I need to do maintenence on the rear end, rotors,pads and parking brake shoes are all wasted but before I go any further I need to look for a crack in the housing as its wet around the perches. There is so much gunk and crap its insane. I was scraping inches deep worth of crap off the tubes...
 
The red tank lining is aftermarket. That's someone trying to fix a tank that had delaminated.

The crap all settles at the bottom when the fuel isn't sloshing around. Any crap in the bottom?
 
The red tank lining is aftermarket. That's someone trying to fix a tank that had delaminated.

The crap all settles at the bottom when the fuel isn't sloshing around. Any crap in the bottom?
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So what are your thoughts? The tank was red as hell, I was told that is some coating that was done after delamination occured and is a "fix" for this. Anyways, the pickup foot was gone, but other then that the fuel looked ok. I was told to those little in tank filters in the sending unit clog and that I should do the hutch mod and a racor filter on the framerail and see what the filter looks like after some miles.

I need to do maintenence on the rear end, rotors,pads and parking brake shoes are all wasted but before I go any further I need to look for a crack in the housing as its wet around the perches. There is so much gunk and crap its insane. I was scraping inches deep worth of crap off the tubes...

I don't like having filters in the tank so the hutch and Racor pre filter takes care of that.
I don't know anything about the delamination issue or fixes for it.

Absolutely look for cracks in the axle, that would ruin the trip if it progresses.
 

I can't see shit, lol. If you shake the tank, can you see stuff that's not fuel moving around in there?

My tank doesn't have a filter in there (just a pickup), so if thats what the hutch mod does, moves that filter from the tank to the frame rail, that's a good thing. Do that.
 
I chuckle that you brought that up! I literally was just looking at a new old stock 7041 in Washington. I have been contemplating it...also for $750. No flanges or mounting girdle like that thing has....I’ve been back and forth on it all.

I haven’t done much of an update. So I’ll do one now. I finished the fuel system deal. Racor filter on the frame, riff raff regulated return and a new Bosch pump. As luck would have it I had a crappy branded pump in the truck from the PO. No surprise there. Fuel pressure has been constant with no fluctuation.

Since my Moab trio mess with the boot I found many others have the same problem with a 3in boot. Ideally I need a 5in boot. 4 or 6 would work but 5 is deal. The 3in is just too short others have mentioned with the T4 kit. Of course everyone was out of 5in for months so I bought a 6in and may swap in a 5in at a later time as one company just got those back in stock.

I ran up to a local grade empty and was running high EGTs and found a small boost leak, fixed that. Towed the H3 locally which I normally never do but wanted to get some test miles on it. Hit a grade twice, 2nd time kicked ass, first time, small boost leak again. Nothing has been catastrophic like the Moab one but this is just a small leak. It’s because the boot is too long and under load I think it’s just touching the bottom of the hood. I’m going to order a 5in one now but when I hit the 2nd grade the truck ran great.

I feel the 3-4 split is a little steep. I can go from lugging to redline and it seems the truck is making less power at 3000+ rpm then 2500-2700 rpm. So that 7041 would fill that gap and allow me .85 (4th auto and 2nd in 7041 or 3rd auto OD 7041) then .71 (direct in 7041 and 4th in the auto) or double over for hauling nothing.

it’s been fun challenge with this truck. I have zero reference point on power and hauling with new trucks, and it’s probably better that way lol but I’m trying to make an old dog do work. It’s like building my H3, people ask why didn’t you do a Jeep or yota?

I also installed an ATOTO A6 headunit to modernize it. I’ll have to post pics of the original head unit install....holy crap this previous owner is lucky the truck didn’t catch fire
 
Looking forward to the pics of the A6 install!!

and yes, dont drive a ford 6.7, especially a tuned one.:laughing:.
 
Here is a pic of the Racor filter all mounted.

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Gotta love how much shit from the tank is already sitting in there

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If I havent been able to convey the absolute horror buying a truck has been from the previous owner maybe this can convince you....

His wiring install for the radio, not shown, how the radio was never actually mounted and secured. One day the radio almost fell out of the double din hole.

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Modernizing the interior a little

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Here are pics of the 7041.

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I think the lady is selling it on behalf of her husband (who probably isnt on social media) and to her knowledge it was never installed. Not sure how true it is but it doesnt have flanges or a mounting girdle.

If that is the case I would assume $750 is a good deal.

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Here is a chart I put together. As you can see lets say I am going 70 at 2500 rpm and start going up a hill and lose some speed, I downshift to 3rd at 56 mph since I dropped to 2000 rpm. When I hit 3rd I bounce back up to 2800 rpm. I am kind of out of the powerband and wont gain much more speed. 4th under (.71x1.21=.86) brings me up to 2400 which I think is in the powerband and gets me accelerating again. I guess thats all theory.
 
Looking forward to the pics of the A6 install!!

and yes, dont drive a ford 6.7, especially a tuned one.:laughing:.
LOL, I drove my buddy's 2012 around camp, damn they are quiet trucks, I cant comment on power as it was at camp. I'd love to take a loaded trailer and a 6-7 mile 7% grade hill with about 5-6 trucks and just pull one after another, 5.9, 6.7, my truck, etc. I have zero reference point since I have never towed except one time with a 454 single cab GMC sierra 3500 SRW. I have never towed with a convoy so I cant tell if I can keep up or not. I can atleast tell when I am getting my ass whooped on the trail since I am with other rigs lol

I have asked myself the question 1000 times and due to no reference point I continue to ask myself when do I hit the point of no retun and pure stupidity (and I may have hit that point) I am currently 19k in the truck. That is including purchase price of the truck, the 2nd truck, oil changes, coolant, etc. Just about every penny ever spent on this truck. I ask myself the rehetorical question of a 2012-2013 crew cab F550 with a 6.7 is 30-40K, then frame stretch, extend fuel lines, brake lines, wiring, driveshaft, add a carrier bearing or two. that becomes an extra 3-4k in expense? Then sell my truck with the bed on it since I would probably get more for it with the bed, then buy a 16 ft bed. I am in idk, 50k? So I am ahead but at the expense of power and quietness. So can things like a T4 turbo and a slightly larger injector, a aux trans, and a shit load of dynamat bridge the gap? lol

My buddy with the 6.7 felt bad when my motor took a shit but I felt equally bad, if not more bad, when he was just hit with a 10k bill for a CP4 failure and he had a diaster prevention kit on it....he had just installed it so maybe he didnt catch it in time.
 
Im in the camp older is better. I sold a 6.7 ford and moved my fleet to all older vehicles. Thats the thing with the cp4. Same thing happened to my boss, 210k and out of nowhere bam. took care to fuel at high volume stations, additives, filters etc.
 
Weird how this is the only place I hear about cp4 failures. I know so many 6.7s just chugging along.

Sorry to break it to you, but that 6.7 will own your 7.3. Not just the engine, but the trans is just so much better.

If you want to upgrade, I'd go to something bigger, get an F650-750, equivalent or just go right to a semi. I think you're pushing even the F550 capacity with a trailer behind you.
 
No doubt, I don’t question a 6.7 would own this truck and won’t pretend it can’t, with that said I’m trying to make this the best thing I can. I think my next move, if I make one, would be a semi. I just don’t want to pay to store it....I can see picking one up if we get on some land and have the space for it.

I was shocked my buddy had the CP4 go out, it was a truck that was well taken care of.

my opinion on 650/750s (and I may be wrong) is that most of them aren’t much better from a power standpoint then a 250/350/450/550 unless you option it out with the biggest motor available but they are a ton heavier for similar power in most cases...So you end up with a chassis that can handle an absurd amount of weight but you are struggling with the power. So skip it all and go 12+ liters of semi truck greatness!
 
I agree, 6.7/6r140 is a beast. my tuned 2017 with 10k would probably outrun my slow ass tuned 2001 7.3 empty.

I also agree on semi, I was at aop for the ultra4 race this past weekend and saw alot of single and tandem axle older semi's. That would be the way to go. Med duty is slow and stiff!
 
Yeah, old medium duty class 6-7 dont have shit for power and are hard to come by in 4wd from what I have seen. They are cheap but worse then 5.9s, 7.3s in relation to power to weight ratio and no 4wd sucks.

you can get an old semi that still is designed to haul 80k, sure it doesn’t have the power of a 2020 Semi but when your hauling around 30-40k it doesn’t matter.

new class 6-7 stuff is expensive and uses the same power train like a 6.7, I’m curious how it runs down the road.

One of the things I liked about the 550 is ease of adding 4wd (of course mine doesn’t have it stock) every damn year I spend time with a bubba rope pulling out Friends RVs on the lakebed, I have seen many semis stuck too. 4wd where I like to wheel/camp is a nice feature.

you can’t get that with a semi but the semi probably outweighs the pros of 4wd.
 
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