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2000 Ford F-550 Build

bdkw1 said:
Link to controller?

Wasn't there an electronic one that would do braking to some degree?
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Ya guy on fte been going round and round with that one awhile
I think last i heard he was considering the mech actuator
 
Electronic VGT was discontinued, now it’s just the “3 stage mechanical” air compressor needed to make that an exhaust brake.
 
06h3 said:
Electronic VGT was discontinued, now it’s just the “3 stage mechanical” air compressor needed to make that an exhaust brake.
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That's neat. I was very interested in their complete vgt turbo a while back until I realized that the exhaust brake wasn't incorporated.
 
Hmm, seems like something that should be pretty easy to control with an ardino or microsquirt. Need TPS, RPM, boost, brakes and maybe drive pressures.
 
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2nd trip of the year is in the books. The truck will probably sit until end of August. I just have local trips where I’ll drive the hummer to and from the trail.

Logged another 1100 miles on the old truck hitting 397k on the way home. I may hit 400k this year, if not, definitely early next year.

One mod I did before this trip is a DIY exhaust brake.
IMG_0989.jpeg


IMG_0991.jpeg

IMG_0990.jpeg



This experiment came from the Bundy exhaust brake. It’s the exact same exhaust cut out but instead of them drilling some holes and charging $1200 I’m in it like $175. I drilled 1 small hole, 1 big hole. I think I went too big, it only makes 24 lbs of back pressure at 2500-2600 rpm.

I will eventually tie it into my gas pedal to automatically open when I hit the pedal but for now to test the theory I have it 100% manual and it really didn’t bug me.

So, how does it work? At just a tad under 30k lbs. it doesn’t slow the load without using the brake pedal but it is significantly better then no exhaust brake.

With no exhaust brake it wants to run away quickly. Braking is slow going.

With the exhaust brake it gains speed much slower but it aids in braking a ton. It helps the brakes quite a bit and it feels much safer! Total win for $175. I may plug the big hole and redrill a 2nd smaller hole.

Last time I posted this picture I got “scope creep” comments. Anyways, my brother hasn’t been wheeling in years, his deal was he would go to the rubicon if I got it there. I like wheeling with him so I agreed even though he was being a primadonna. I wasn’t over GAWR on any axles and weighed in just a hair under 30k lbs. total. Flat ground at 3-4k elevation it would do 70 with ease. Grades, it did what it wanted. I think at 7300 feet over I50 near Tahoe I was down to like 37 mph.

Anyways, exhaust brake helped a ton, the load wasn’t sketchy on stopping. Last time I did this exact load on the exact route 2 years ago it was way more sketchy stopping.

IMG_1052.jpeg


This is the 3rd load I have done in the 28-30k range in 4 years. I know a hotshotter that had the same injector/turbo setup as me that did 26-32k daily and a couple times 38k :eek: on the east coast with his 7.3 so I’m not worried about it.

Wife’s bus is finally for sale! Hopefully she will get that sold in the next month and then we can start shopping for a trailer. I’d like to land in the 25-26k range total with hummer, truck, and living quarters.
 
06h3 said:
2nd trip of the year is in the books. The truck will probably sit until end of August. I just have local trips where I’ll drive the hummer to and from the trail.

Logged another 1100 miles on the old truck hitting 397k on the way home. I may hit 400k this year, if not, definitely early next year.

One mod I did before this trip is a DIY exhaust brake.
IMG_0989.jpeg


IMG_0991.jpeg

IMG_0990.jpeg



This experiment came from the Bundy exhaust brake. It’s the exact same exhaust cut out but instead of them drilling some holes and charging $1200 I’m in it like $175. I drilled 1 small hole, 1 big hole. I think I went too big, it only makes 24 lbs of back pressure at 2500-2600 rpm.

I will eventually tie it into my gas pedal to automatically open when I hit the pedal but for now to test the theory I have it 100% manual and it really didn’t bug me.

So, how does it work? At just a tad under 30k lbs. it doesn’t slow the load without using the brake pedal but it is significantly better then no exhaust brake.

With no exhaust brake it wants to run away quickly. Braking is slow going.

With the exhaust brake it gains speed much slower but it aids in braking a ton. It helps the brakes quite a bit and it feels much safer! Total win for $175. I may plug the big hole and redrill a 2nd smaller hole.

Last time I posted this picture I got “scope creep” comments. Anyways, my brother hasn’t been wheeling in years, his deal was he would go to the rubicon if I got it there. I like wheeling with him so I agreed even though he was being a primadonna. I wasn’t over GAWR on any axles and weighed in just a hair under 30k lbs. total. Flat ground at 3-4k elevation it would do 70 with ease. Grades, it did what it wanted. I think at 7300 feet over I50 near Tahoe I was down to like 37 mph.

Anyways, exhaust brake helped a ton, the load wasn’t sketchy on stopping. Last time I did this exact load on the exact route 2 years ago it was way more sketchy stopping.

IMG_1052.jpeg


This is the 3rd load I have done in the 28-30k range in 4 years. I know a hotshotter that had the same injector/turbo setup as me that did 26-32k daily and a couple times 38k :eek: on the east coast with his 7.3 so I’m not worried about it.

Wife’s bus is finally for sale! Hopefully she will get that sold in the next month and then we can start shopping for a trailer. I’d like to land in the 25-26k range total with hummer, truck, and living quarters.
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I would have bet you money that butterfly was bent in half:lmao:
 
I'll be interested to see how your brake holds up long term.

I keep meaning to buy one of these vacuum ones and make a brake.

Screenshot 2024-06-06 at 6.54.42 PM.png
 
Since you drilled the hole too big just put a bolt in it and drill another.
 
Glad to see it worked, curious how it holds up over time.

Do you have a tq converter lock up? Because that will make a world of difference with the exhaust brake.
 
CarterKraft said:
I would have bet you money that butterfly was bent in half:lmao:
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I 1000% agree with you. I wouldn’t have even tried it if it wasn’t for the fact that Bundy is selling the EXACT unit so he’s either fucking people over for $1200 or it’s working. Figured it’s worth the $175 gamble
arse_sidewards said:
Since you drilled the hole too big just put a bolt in it and drill another.
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Probably. lol
YotaAtieToo said:
Glad to see it worked, curious how it holds up over time.

Do you have a tq converter lock up? Because that will make a world of difference with the exhaust brake.
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Yeah I the tuning I have usually has the TC locked up 99% of the time. It makes a difference, I tried it locked and unlocked.
 
I began reading about diy exhaust braking and found this on the ford-trucks forum. Any idea if this is relevant?
1717724034080.png

Just in case. Real nice tow rig btw.
 
KenV said:
I began reading about diy exhaust braking and found this on the ford-trucks forum. Any idea if this is relevant?
1717724034080.png

Just in case. Real nice tow rig btw.
Click to expand...

It's a real thing. I've read about it in the past.

That being said I've been using my turbo exhaust brake tune for a few years and the engine hasn't blown up. The turbo has work out very quickly, but the engine is still together.

I'd like to try this setup on my 6.oh f550. I'm similar weight with my enclosed and the turbo exhaust brake is a life saver, probably literally.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
It's a real thing. I've read about it in the past.

That being said I've been using my turbo exhaust brake tune for a few years and the engine hasn't blown up. The turbo has work out very quickly, but the engine is still together.

I'd like to try this setup on my 6.oh f550. I'm similar weight with my enclosed and the turbo exhaust brake is a life saver, probably literally.
Click to expand...
KenV said:
I began reading about diy exhaust braking and found this on the ford-trucks forum. Any idea if this is relevant?
1717724034080.png

Just in case. Real nice tow rig btw.
Click to expand...
I have read 2 different things.

1) engine related, what you have mentioned, but I have seen many people run them without issue. My back pressure is kind of low so I’m not too worried about it.

2) trans related on the autos (not manual.) the coast clutch is weak. My trans builder upgraded the weak spot on it.
 
I wonder if there is a way to add a waste gate to keep the back pressure under control and just fill both holes in?

I'd think more back pressure would be drastically better braking? No idea what is safe or unsafe pressure :laughing:

Edit: quick Google says over 65 psi could be float valves..... So you're a long ways from that. I'm betting there is way more potential there.
 
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YotaAtieToo said:
Edit: quick Google says over 65 psi could be float valves..... So you're a long ways from that. I'm betting there is way more potential there.
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Would be super easy to test by simply pressurizing one manifold until it leaks out the valves and then knocking a few PSI off your number for safety
 
arse_sidewards said:
Would be super easy to test by simply pressurizing one manifold until it leaks out the valves and then knocking a few PSI off your number for safety
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That wouldn't be accurate as there is pressure un the cylinders while it's running. This would make the pressure differential less. With it running, the cylinder pressure would equalize out the added backpressure pretty quick. I used the EBPV for an exhuast brake for years, no holes just full close. It bent the shaft, but the motor didn't give a shit.
 
bdkw1 said:
That wouldn't be accurate as there is pressure un the cylinders while it's running. This would make the pressure differential less. With it running, the cylinder pressure would equalize out the added backpressure pretty quick. I used the EBPV for an exhuast brake for years, no holes just full close. It bent the shaft, but the motor didn't give a shit.
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There is no only atmospheric pressure (plus boost if applicable) in the cylinder when it is at TDC with intake open. There is slightly less during the intake stroke.

That said, I think valve float concerns are overblown. A "little" valve float and lifter pump up shouldn't be a big deal. IIRC sure there's someone here who had something that would pump up the lifters and the only issues were driveability, no parts breakage or reliability problems.
 
The point was moreso that the hydraulic lifters would be forced to collapse, then potentially the pushrods would lift out of them. As the lifters are pumped back up that collision and resulting lack of valve control could be catastrophic.

Valve float is one thing, but the point of the concern was collapsing the lifters. At least that's how I understood it. Different than valve float, it's the valve forcing itself open when the lifter is trying to hold it shut, as opposed to hanging open longer and the valve spring not closing the valve fast enough.
 
GLTHFJ60 said:
The point was moreso that the hydraulic lifters would be forced to collapse, then potentially the pushrods would lift out of them. As the lifters are pumped back up that collision and resulting lack of valve control could be catastrophic.

Valve float is one thing, but the point of the concern was collapsing the lifters. At least that's how I understood it. Different than valve float, it's the valve forcing itself open when the lifter is trying to hold it shut, as opposed to hanging open longer and the valve spring not closing the valve fast enough.
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The lifters won't be collapsing. The exhaust pressure is never going to act on them in that direction. The valve is going to float from the exhaust pressure on the back of the valve and once freed from the valve spring pushing back at them (because the exhaust gas is taking that force) they will pump up and remain open on the base circle.

This should mostly be self limiting (staying open on the base circle -> less pumping -> less exhaust -> less pressure) but I can see why they'd be worried about valve to piston contact in a diesel and why a real company wouldn't offer a commercial product that does this.
 
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