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1991 Snow Tracker Build

JR4X said:
Dana 30’s have 5.13 gear availability. A Toyota axle isn’t to big for 32’s. What Toyota axles are, is to dam narrow for track/kicks. I know people make them work but it’s pathetic. Use an ifs rear axle for width then if you’re lucky, do IFS outers on the front axle with wheel spacers and have a terrible scrub radius which is murder on the king pin caps that double as the steering arms. If you’re going to spend 6 shooter knuckle money, you might as well build something better than a toy front axle.
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God the Stockholm syndrome that Yota solid axle guys have is unbelievable.
 
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I mean I got an extra 14B chillin back there and some Chevy KP knuckles and outers. I could build you a steering 14B. :smokin:
 
ParadisePWoffrd said:
I feel like I saw someone swap a sami 3rd into the front, but not sure that helps the housing any.

Sami axle will need spacers for sure to get close on width.

CJ dana 30, even wide track, will need spacers. YJ/XJ/TJ D30 is closer, but wrong drop and bolt pattern.
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A wide track 30 from a late CJ is the exact same width as a track kick rear. I don’t think I’d use one as a swap though unless I just had one laying around. If you gotta pay for one it’s to much money.
 
I’d put a D30 on par with a Yota front. And for a 1/3 the price.

I broke some 30s in my day but I was on the gas wether the tires were on the ground or 2’ in the air.

Also had 2 friends run Sami SAS’d 2Dr Tracks that held up well. Sure you could pop them if you were driving by braille or letting the honey whisky pick the lines.
 
While I think the Toyota axle isn't too big I do think it'll effect your ground clearance more than you'd like on the 32's.

I like the Dana 30 wide track idea but like JR4X said unless it's sitting next to you on the garage floor I'd pass.

Which brings us around full circle to what you have sitting next to you, the stock zuk axle. I say run it. Good truss with good shafts and see what happens.

Hell worse case we could take bets on how long it will last and then we could all laugh at your next wanted ad. "Looking for FREE Dana 30 wide track axle" :lmao:
 
JR4X said:
Dana 30’s have 5.13 gear availability. A Toyota axle isn’t to big for 32’s. What Toyota axles are, is to dam narrow for track/kicks. I know people make them work but it’s pathetic. Use an ifs rear axle for width then if you’re lucky, do IFS outers on the front axle with wheel spacers and have a terrible scrub radius which is murder on the king pin caps that double as the steering arms. If you’re going to spend 6 shooter knuckle money, you might as well build something better than a toy front axle.
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Toyota ifs hubs on the solid axle spindle should be the right width for an ifs rear, iirc. They work nicely.
 
I've had pretty good luck with my Sami axle with rcv's, but I'm probably a fair bit lighter than a hard top kick.

I still say it's a step backwards in most ways.

I'd stick with upgrading the ifs slowly and being able to actually take it out vs a larger tear down.
 
So what's the big issue/worry/ reason with runny the Toyota front?

I think I gave you more than enough Toyota axles /parts to build a second axle and not tap into your zuk build set.

If so and I had both the zuk front axle and Toyota front axle laying on the garage floor I'd definitely be running the Toyota and never look back.
 
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Wuz-A-zuk said:
So what's the big issue/worry/ reason with runny the Toyota front?

I think I gave you more than enough Toyota axles /parts to build a second axle and not tap into your zuk build set.

If so and I had both the zuk front axle and Toyota front axle laying on the garage floor I'd definitely be running the Toyota and never look back.
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What about matching bolt patterns front to rear? Might have to look back far enough to see the rear axle.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
I've had pretty good luck with my Sami axle with rcv's, but I'm probably a fair bit lighter than a hard top kick.

I still say it's a step backwards in most ways.

I'd stick with upgrading the ifs slowly and being able to actually take it out vs a larger tear down.
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Man if that front diff was steel I’d be more inclined. All the IFS stuff is so fucking expensive and I’m still running IFS stuff.

I definitely need to build my own steering and tie rod ends with heims if I keep the IFS. It’s the same crap I ran into on my SXS. Constantly dealing with tie rods pulling out and putting it out of alignment all the time.

I still have not seen a Grand Vitara steel diff laying around for sale anywhere and the Low Range diff is $988…like fawk.
 
I'm wondering if just building a cradle like we do for the Sami case then have mounts off that would be just as good.

Tracker rear is 58"? A Sami axle at 52" is just retarded, I don't care what the front wms of the ifs is.

Toyota axles get a bad rap from guys trying to run 40s on a 5k lb rig with 500:1 gearing. Then like Jr said, wheelspacers, ifs hubs, 2" bs wheels ect. I've seen them take lots of abuse on 35-37s and white guy back spacing. Way more than a lame ass D44 ujoint.

As far as Sami vs Toyota, I broke a birf and r&p the first time I I went out with my 6.4 case, on 32s. Put bone stock Toyota axles in, literally just welded the diffs. Ran the same 32s, 33s and 35s. I was a teenager and drove like an idiot. With a 1.3, 6.4 case and stock 4.37s it was bulletproof. Only after the axle came out did I realize the housing had a slight bend from hitting a 2' deep 2' diameter pot hole at speed.

I do think they are a decent fit for a zuk and 35-37s. It does suck the front is narrower than stock.

If it were my money I'd find a unit bearing D30 and swap tubes. With all the different versions you should be able to get one around 60" wms. Companies sell sleeve kits for pretty cheap, which should make it easy to splice the tubes back together.

Lug pattern is as easy as redrilling or running some thin adapters.
 
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YotaAtieToo said:
I'm wondering if just building a cradle like we do for the Sami case then have mounts off that would be just as good.

Tracker rear is 58"? A Sami axle at 52" is just retarded, I don't care what the front wms of the ifs is.

Toyota axles get a bad rap from guys trying to run 40s on a 5k lb rig with 500:1 gearing. Then like Jr said, wheelspacers, ifs hubs, 2" bs wheels ect. I've seen them take lots of abuse on 35-37s and white guy back spacing. Way more than a lame ass D44 ujoint.

As far as Sami vs Toyota, I broke a birf and r&p the first time I I went out with my 6.4 case, on 32s. Put bone stock Toyota axles in, literally just welded the diffs. Ran the same 32s, 33s and 35s. I was a teenager and drove like an idiot. With a 1.3, 6.4 case and stock 4.37s it was bulletproof. Only after the axle came out did I realize the housing had a slight bend from hitting a 2' deep 2' diameter pot hole at speed.

I do think they are a decent fit for a zuk and 35-37s. It does suck the front is narrower than stock.

If it were my money I'd find a unit bearing D30 and swap tubes. With all the different versions you should be able to get one around 60" wms. Companies sell sleeve kits for pretty cheap, which should make it easy to splice the tubes back together.

Lug pattern is as easy as redrilling or running some thin adapters.
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I am liking the Dana 30 idea.

I tracked down a TJ Dana 30. Looked up the outer spline count and it’s 27 spline on the axles. Now, I’m thinking I could run late model WJ knuckles and WJ wheel bearing/hubs and end up with high steer and 5x5.5” bolt pattern, which would alleviate spacers/adapters to convert the 5 x4.5” TJ.

Or is my thinking off here?
 
FleshEater said:
I am liking the Dana 30 idea.

I tracked down a TJ Dana 30. Looked up the outer spline count and it’s 27 spline on the axles. Now, I’m thinking I could run late model WJ knuckles and WJ wheel bearing/hubs and end up with high steer and 5x5.5” bolt pattern, which would alleviate spacers/adapters to convert the 5 x4.5” TJ.

Or is my thinking off here?
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The balljoint spread is the same for WJ, yes you can swap knuckles, bigger brakes, high steer but the WJ is 5x5 pattern. Also a TJ D30 is LP. Try and find a HP from an XJ. Little more strength.
 
Wj is 5x5

Surprisingly, no one makes a 5x5.5" unit bearing. So you're stuck either trying to Redhill the WJ UB or just running adapters. Among adapters, 5 lug to 5 lug aren't bad, not like the 2 piece ones. The only bummer is that it seems the stock width is about perfect, but if you're running spacers on the rear currently, you'll probably be fine with a 1" or so spacer on the front also.

I also wondered if a low pinion might package easier while trying to keep it as low as possible? R&p strength shouldn't be an issue.

As far as spline count, yes only 27, still a bit bigger than zuk 26 spline and lots of options for bigger shafts. Should turn much shaper than a Sami axle, my turning radius is terrible for a 85" wheelbase.
 
FleshEater said:
Last thing to figure out is the front drive shaft. Looks like these Dana 30’s are all 1310?
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What about getting the differential moved from the drivers side to the passenger side? CJ D30 the diff is on the pass side like it’s supposed to be. TJ/XJ/WJ/MJ the front diff is on the drivers side.

Driveshaft, just do a hybrid. You’ll need to do a driveshaft build anyway so leave the slip on the t-case side and do 1310 on the axle end.
 
JR4X said:
What about getting the differential moved from the drivers side to the passenger side? CJ D30 the diff is on the pass side like it’s supposed to be. TJ/XJ/WJ/MJ the front diff is on the drivers side.

Driveshaft, just do a hybrid. You’ll need to do a driveshaft build anyway so leave the slip on the t-case side and do 1310 on the axle end.
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Plan is to cut and sleeve the axle to flip the tubes.
 
Narrow a Dodge Ram 1500 Dana 44?

Low pinion so easy packaging. Big brakes and already right bolt pattern.

You need a new shaft to delete the CAD anyway so it's no extra expense to narrow it. Should be cheap because nobody else wants them.

Buy the pair and you'll have a rear axle upgrade ready to go for whenever you decide you want it.
 
arse_sidewards said:
Narrow a Dodge Ram 1500 Dana 44?

Low pinion so easy packaging. Big brakes and already right bolt pattern.

You need a new shaft to delete the CAD anyway so it's no extra expense to narrow it. Should be cheap because nobody else wants them.

Buy the pair and you'll have a rear axle upgrade ready to go for whenever you decide you want it.
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Dana 30 is cheap all around.

Plus, this is a 2,250lbs. vehicle that “might” see 33’s some day and that’s it. Dana 44 seems way overkill. I’ve seen Jeep guys wheeling up to 35’s on these Dana 30’s with few issues.

I don’t think my weight and/or 85hp. on a perfect running, chill day is going to kill an XJ axle.
 
1994+ ram 1500 dana 44 knuckles will swap to a TJ axle, just have to use the ram stub axles along with it. If you are shopping for a dana30 I would suggest checking the XJ's in Junkyard's, I have an XJ non CAD HP30 laying in the back of my toyota that I have been thinking of swapping in since the width is almost exact match for a 1st gen taco.
 
I helped my bestie in law build this S10 blazer a long time ago. Has a 350/700R4/231C pushing power through an XJ non CAD HP30 with 3.73’s and a spartan locker up front with 35’s. Works pretty good for what is, if the 30 lives here your tracker should be GTG.

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350TacoZilla said:
1994+ ram 1500 dana 44 knuckles will swap to a TJ axle, just have to use the ram stub axles along with it. If you are shopping for a dana30 I would suggest checking the XJ's in Junkyard's, I have an XJ non CAD HP30 laying in the back of my toyota that I have been thinking of swapping in since the width is almost exact match for a 1st gen taco.
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Well that is great to know. I can get my proper bolt pattern without adapters.

Since this isn’t going to end up super high, I’m not even sure the high steer WJ knuckles are absolutely necessary. Hard to say until I get it all under there and look.
 
It's easy to fall into the "every build needs 1 tons" style of building because bigger is better and if your spending the money anyhow why waste it on a D30, but people don't think about how you can get that D30 for sub $250 and if they live in a XJ with the general population they will survive in anything lighter with less power as long as your driving style isn't braille and whisky throttle.
 
350TacoZilla said:
It's easy to fall into the "every build needs 1 tons" style of building because bigger is better and if your spending the money anyhow why waste it on a D30, but people don't think about how you can get that D30 for sub $250 and if they live in a XJ with the general population they will survive in anything lighter with less power as long as your driving style isn't braille and whisky throttle.
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Will a 2001 Dodge Ram front knuckle and axle stub work?

I’m getting most of this stuff for dirt cheap and it’s all I need. This is the Zuk section. Whole idea is to be a cheap fuck. :flipoff2:
 
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