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1991 Snow Tracker Build

The main alt lead should run directly to the battery, so it should have the same voltage as the battery
 
I dont recall the zuk wiring exactly, but 1 runs to the ign switch, I believe, and the other to the light/gauge.
 
ParadisePWoffrd said:
I dont recall the zuk wiring exactly, but 1 runs to the ign switch, I believe, and the other to the light/gauge.
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That makes sense. I’ll rule that out as a possibility.

I also found this weird dead ended connection. I really need the wiring schematic book I ordered to come in.

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Well I found this…doesn’t help me narrow down my issue. I tracked down the blue/black wire and that’s what I was following as it’s the one with very little power off the relay.
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Did you pull your fuse block and look at the back for burnt wires? I have a couple samurai fuse blocks, they may be the same and you're welcome to em for the cost of shipping if you need one.
 
1Sinner said:
Did you pull your fuse block and look at the back for burnt wires? I have a couple samurai fuse blocks, they may be the same and you're welcome to em for the cost of shipping if you need one.
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I did. They’re all good.

12 volts at the block as well.
 
FleshEater said:
Well I found this…doesn’t help me narrow down my issue. I tracked down the blue/black wire and that’s what I was following as it’s the one with very little power off the relay.
579E9DB8-12C6-4484-890E-98A46CDA10E6.jpeg
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there used to be a number of FSMs for the kicks on the web. Maybe they were lost when the zuk sites started dying?

maybe this one" Idk what years it covers.
 
FleshEater said:
I also found this weird dead ended connection. I really need the wiring schematic book I ordered to come in.

9B14C692-D86B-4851-A3FF-04AA87EC78A1.jpeg
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I am no expert here, however that looks like someone decided to bypass something. And according to the electrical diagram you posted, it looks like it's for the fuel pump relay but who knows for sure.

I know you're waiting on your wiring diagrams book, but I found this site that has several wiring diagrams covering different engines and models:

Suzuki Samurai Wiring Diagrams – Zuki Offroad

Here are some electrical diagrams for for the Suzuki Samurai, Sidekick and Trackers. They're split in to two columns. One are of basic images (.GIF or .JPG) and the other are .PDF's. The .PDF files will require Adobe Reader to view the files. Click on the icon below to download it.
www.zukioffroad.com www.zukioffroad.com

Hopefully it helps... :beer:
 
Will Scarlet said:
I am no expert here, however that looks like someone decided to bypass something. And according to the electrical diagram you posted, it looks like it's for the fuel pump relay but who knows for sure.

I know you're waiting on your wiring diagrams book, but I found this site that has several wiring diagrams covering different engines and models:

Suzuki Samurai Wiring Diagrams – Zuki Offroad

Here are some electrical diagrams for for the Suzuki Samurai, Sidekick and Trackers. They're split in to two columns. One are of basic images (.GIF or .JPG) and the other are .PDF's. The .PDF files will require Adobe Reader to view the files. Click on the icon below to download it.
www.zukioffroad.com www.zukioffroad.com

Hopefully it helps... :beer:
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I was going to say the same thing...a plug like that with pink wires is what is connected to the fuel pump relay. Looks like someone may have bypassed the relay. One of the "non-pink" wires provides 12V to the relay...and sends it to the fuel pump on one of the pink wires, in normal operation when the relay is operated.
 
Boy, I’m wondering if it isn’t my fuse block. I don’t know much about how these work.

But, my ignition/coil fuse has no power, and neither does my wiper fuse.

Both of these fuses are on either side of the one that burnt and melted. What’s the likelihood something is awry there and I can’t see it?
 
FleshEater said:
Boy, I’m wondering if it isn’t my fuse block. I don’t know much about how these work.

But, my ignition/coil fuse has no power, and neither does my wiper fuse.

Both of these fuses are on either side of the one that burnt and melted. What’s the likelihood something is awry there and I can’t see it?
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A fuse block is simply power in, power out, with the fuse between each of the power in and power out wires.
I would expect that neither of those fuses would have power without the key being in the run position. So assuming you are testing for power with the key in the run position, it sounds like the power is not making it to the fuse...so either each of the fuses have a bad connection where they are trying to connect to the power in wires, or there is no power on the power in wires.
Easy way to check would be to pull each fuse, turn the key to run, and check each wire each fuse connects to. One wire should have 12V on one side of each fuse. If they do, then plug each fuse back in and the fuses should have a tiny bit of metal on either side of the amp rating on the top of the fuse. Check for 12V at each metal bit on both fuses. You should have 12V on both sides, if the fuse is making connection with the wire and the fuse is good. If you have 12V on just one side of the fuse, the fuse is blown. If you don't have 12V on either side of the fuse, the fuse isn't making connection with the wire in the back of the fuse block.
 
Fixed.

Those two fuses were not getting power in the fuse block. Only those two fuses. Everything else was fine.

So I’m rigging up my own redneck fusible link, and adding a switch to the coil/ignition power.

But she’s running and everything is working.
 
Byro If you pull your rocker panel wires, it goes well under the driver’s seat and then through the speaker hole behind the driver’s seat. Only other way to hide it is to extend it, a lot.

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The old girl is back up and running, and I inadvertently fixed a lot of little issues. Before when I would turn on my headlights, my seat belt light would come on no matter what and beep. Fixed. My “brake” light was also always on. Fixed.

She’s fawkin mint now. :smokin:

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Got this out last night for some fun.

I like using TikTok so if you sound like an idiot on video they make easy to edit music over it. :laughing:

Nothing broke. It almost broke, but didn’t. A longer wheelbase could be helpful sometimes. :smokin:





 
Nice.

Almost pulled mine of the trailer to go terrorize some snow covered backroads. It’s still on the trailer from the Turkeyshoot. :lmao:
 
My oldest son wanted me to take him to a school event in this Friday night. On the way there it was all over the road. Brought it back and checked the alignment. Passenger tie rod was way out of whack.

I’ve come to terms with this IFS not surviving these 32’s. So…I’m going to rebuild my Samurai axle, and swap it into this with a 3 link, coil/shock set up. It’ll be more expensive than free, but a cheap alternative so I can continue to wheel this as hard as I’d like.

I’m sticking with 32’s, so the Samurai axle will be fine. Most guys seem to swap leaf springs over, but I don’t want to do that.

Going down the path now to see what’s required to swap 5.12 gears from the Tracker into the diff housing of the Samurai with the Samurai carrier so I can add a lunch box locker. Seems straight forward and the link set up shouldn’t be too terrible.

The Samurai rock crawler just seems so far away with trying to stay ahead of inflation. I just want something I can wheel and not destroy every time out.
 
3/4”-3/4” dropped to 1/2” misalignment on the heims and 1.5” .250 wall for links. You could get away with 5/8”-5/8” joints and 1.25” .188 for steering.

Little rig and it’s easy to way overkill. I’d go 3/16” on the tabs too. Hell most manufacturers prefabbed shock tabs would work for link tabs.
 
It’s super easy to install the kick gears in the Sammy 3rd. I’ve welded the pins and used the can both. The can is the better way to do it but the welded pins held just fine.

Jump to 8 min 40 seconds to see the can I’m talking about. I think I got mine from petroworks but trail tough have (or had) them as well.

 
FleshEater said:
My oldest son wanted me to take him to a school event in this Friday night. On the way there it was all over the road. Brought it back and checked the alignment. Passenger tie rod was way out of whack.

I’ve come to terms with this IFS not surviving these 32’s. So…I’m going to rebuild my Samurai axle, and swap it into this with a 3 link, coil/shock set up. It’ll be more expensive than free, but a cheap alternative so I can continue to wheel this as hard as I’d like.

I’m sticking with 32’s, so the Samurai axle will be fine. Most guys seem to swap leaf springs over, but I don’t want to do that.

Going down the path now to see what’s required to swap 5.12 gears from the Tracker into the diff housing of the Samurai with the Samurai carrier so I can add a lunch box locker. Seems straight forward and the link set up shouldn’t be too terrible.

The Samurai rock crawler just seems so far away with trying to stay ahead of inflation. I just want something I can wheel and not destroy every time out.
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A Sami axle isn’t much of an upgrade. Even a jeep D30 or Toyota solid axle will be much stronger.
 
DMG said:
A Sami axle isn’t much of an upgrade. Even a jeep D30 or Toyota solid axle will be much stronger.
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Agree... you can break a sami axle under a sami on 32s fairly easily... toyota cvs and a steel center section would be stronger and easier... or just go Toyota.
 
DMG said:
A Sami axle isn’t much of an upgrade. Even a jeep D30 or Toyota solid axle will be much stronger.
Click to expand...

Does a Dana 30 line up for the driveshaft? I could maybe snag one of those cheap…but not sure if they make 5.12 gears to match the rear.

Toyota axles are way too big for the 32’s.

Scout 44…I haven’t seen a Scout in over 20 years around here. All this shit is rotted to the ground.

I went and checked on the steel housing from Low Range again. I don’t know, I’m slightly regretting these 32’s. I just know it’s fucking annoying babying the throttle all the time worrying about the aluminum diff.
 
FleshEater said:
Does a Dana 30 line up for the driveshaft? I could maybe snag one of those cheap…but not sure if they make 5.12 gears to match the rear.

Toyota axles are way too big for the 32’s.

Scout 44…I haven’t seen a Scout in over 20 years around here. All this shit is rotted to the ground.

I went and checked on the steel housing from Low Range again. I don’t know, I’m slightly regretting these 32’s. I just know it’s fucking annoying babying the throttle all the time worrying about the aluminum diff.
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Steel housing from a grand vitara
And YotaAtieToo may still have tye toyota cv adapter kit kicking around.
 
Dana 30’s have 5.13 gear availability. A Toyota axle isn’t to big for 32’s. What Toyota axles are, is to dam narrow for track/kicks. I know people make them work but it’s pathetic. Use an ifs rear axle for width then if you’re lucky, do IFS outers on the front axle with wheel spacers and have a terrible scrub radius which is murder on the king pin caps that double as the steering arms. If you’re going to spend 6 shooter knuckle money, you might as well build something better than a toy front axle.
 
FleshEater said:
Does a Dana 30 line up for the driveshaft? I could maybe snag one of those cheap…but not sure if they make 5.12 gears to match the rear.

Toyota axles are way too big for the 32’s.

Scout 44…I haven’t seen a Scout in over 20 years around here. All this shit is rotted to the ground.

I went and checked on the steel housing from Low Range again. I don’t know, I’m slightly regretting these 32’s. I just know it’s fucking annoying babying the throttle all the time worrying about the aluminum diff.
Click to expand...
I feel like I saw someone swap a sami 3rd into the front, but not sure that helps the housing any.

Sami axle will need spacers for sure to get close on width.

CJ dana 30, even wide track, will need spacers. YJ/XJ/TJ D30 is closer, but wrong drop and bolt pattern.

Tydes modified a rear housing to be a front.
 
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