350TacoZilla
Well-known member
I'm not sure on that since they changed some stuff right near end. Not sure if its like the 3\4-1T stuff where its different or not sorry.
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1991 Snow Tracker Build
- Thread starter FleshEater
- Start date
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- Tags
- suzuki
Byro
Lurkin’
They make Yota flanges for D44s.
D44 and D30 share the same pinion spline and seal.
D44 and D30 share the same pinion spline and seal.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
I found an HP30 out of an 06’ LJ with axles. Also found a 2001 Ram 1500 for pretty much free and after running parts numbers I think it will work for the outer knuckle and axle stub swaps.
350TacoZilla
Well-known member
Cool! Make sure to take pics and report if it works out. I want to do that swap along with silverado unit bearings to end up with a 6x5.5 D30.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
For sure. I’ll try to document as much as I can so it’s saved here. Some of the old Zuk sites are dead, pics are gone, threads just tapered off with no answers. It’s frustrating.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Good tech on the Ram knuckles. Too bad about the stubs though. Might make getting cheap sets of aftermarket axles more difficult. Stock will probably be just fine in this little rig though.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
Dana 44 stubs should be fine for this. I’m sure there’s a u-joint upgrade that strengthens them over the factory joints as well. Or maybe not.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
Last night I decided to start on re-mounting my winch and shrinking the size of the front bumper. When the Dana 30 goes in I want to push the axle forward as far as I can without getting into moving too much of the steering. I have no idea how far that will be, but even 1/2” and I think this giant bumper will be in the way.
When I blew apart my front diff in the creek, I also bent my bumper winching out.
Idea here is to tuck into the frame rails as far as I can and move the bumper up and back as well. We’ll see how it turns out.
When I blew apart my front diff in the creek, I also bent my bumper winching out.
Idea here is to tuck into the frame rails as far as I can and move the bumper up and back as well. We’ll see how it turns out.
Byro
Lurkin’
Troy tucked his way in tight.
Granted his front bumper is a little different but you get the idea.
Granted his front bumper is a little different but you get the idea.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
The common Toyota pattern is the same as a track kick, just very slightly different centering boss.
Speaking of driveshafts. What the plan for the front? Leave the slip yoke, sye, or?
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
Probably leave the slip yoke until it fails and them eliminate it.
Well, I welded a piece of angle to the round tube out front for a flatter, reinforced surface. Tacked the mount to it, and I’m not 100% sure how I want to go. Thinking about welding triangle to the side of the winch plate to tie it all into the angle. Then a plate underneath triangulated back to the angle.
Problem is tying it in from the sides as well. The bumper will end up above all the bottom mounts.
Also cut out and re-welded a piece into the bumper to fix the bend.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
The problem I have is if something as dumb as a bad ujoint happens on the trail, you can't pull the driveline without loosing all your oil in your tcase.
Can you tuck it back further?
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
That’s a good point…man $210.00 per SYE from Trail Tough. It’s going on the list of future money to spend on this.
No. It looks like it isn’t back very far, but it’s almost against the radiator. I’ll have just enough room to hook the back wire up.
I think I figured out the solution last night. I need a piece of round tube to run from frame rail to frame rail. I’ll make brackets to feed the tube through so it’s all fully welded in to the frame and the winch plate. I can also put some straight pieces of tube back to the angle iron.
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ParadisePWoffrd
Recovering Project Junkie
You can drill/tap the output shaft on the tcase and use a sami axle flange for the SYE.That’s a good point…man $210.00 per SYE from Trail Tough. It’s going on the list of future money to spend on this.
No. It looks like it isn’t back very far, but it’s almost against the radiator. I’ll have just enough room to hook the back wire up.
I think I figured out the solution last night. I need a piece of round tube to run from frame rail to frame rail. I’ll make brackets to feed the tube through so it’s all fully welded in to the frame and the winch plate. I can also put some straight pieces of tube back to the angle iron.
The LJ axle should be LP also. Only YJ & XJ got HP30. YJ non-CAD will be the easiest to flip sides, unless you are pulling tubes.
HP30 and short LP30 can only go down to 5.13 gears. Std LP30 can go to 5.38. If that matters.
HP30:
Jeep XJ (87-99)
Jeep YJ (87-96)
Short LP30:
Jeep TJ Front (97-Present)
Jeep Liberty Front (01-Present)
Jeep ZJ/WJ (96.5-Pres.)
LP30:
Jeep CJ Front (76-86)
Jeep ZJ Grand Cherokee (92-96.5)
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
Is that front and rear Sami axle flange?
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
I knew there was a lot of different versions, but never paid any attention to which was which. Weird that they went LP in the later stuff, I figured it would have been the other way around. Jk30 is hp iirc?
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
Still making headway on the bumper/winch build.
Pretty sure I found the right Jeep Dana 30 from my uncle out of an XJ. Also got the 2001 Dodge Ram for free. I’m going to take the front and rear axles from it and the transfer case. Found someone who can use the engine and transmission so they’ll take those.
Along with the Ram I scored a 2500lbs. Badland winch for an ATV to use as a suck down winch on the Samurai for $25.
Making junkyard parts cheap again.
Pretty sure I found the right Jeep Dana 30 from my uncle out of an XJ. Also got the 2001 Dodge Ram for free. I’m going to take the front and rear axles from it and the transfer case. Found someone who can use the engine and transmission so they’ll take those.
Along with the Ram I scored a 2500lbs. Badland winch for an ATV to use as a suck down winch on the Samurai for $25.
Making junkyard parts cheap again.
Score!
ParadisePWoffrd
Recovering Project Junkie
JK30 is HP, and slightly larger than previous generations. They are also ~5" wider than the XJ/YJ/TJ and have bigger brakes. But plan to sleeve and truss them, cuz they bend easy.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
Got the bumper and winch mount all done. It might not have net me much, but I like the look so much more and it was my first fab job on a vehicle.
Some of the welds on the tube work is ugly, but I had no idea measuring, notching, and angling round tube was so hard!
Some of the welds on the tube work is ugly, but I had no idea measuring, notching, and angling round tube was so hard!
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
Painted. Might add a small light in the void of plastic. Gotta be all bright and shiny like all the SXS guys I ride with. 
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Thats what I thought.
So many people make the sleeves and c gussets, I don't see it as a big deal. If I'm swapping the diff to pass drop, taking 5" out is no big deal.
I figured the sleeve kits would make splicing the tubes back together even easier.
It's twmping to do a Hp30 front and lp30 rear in my Sami with 4ws and sticky 35s
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
Thats what I thought.
So many people make the sleeves and c gussets, I don't see it as a big deal. If I'm swapping the diff to pass drop, taking 5" out is no big deal.
I figured the sleeve kits would make splicing the tubes back together even easier.
It's twmping to do a Hp30 front and lp30 rear in my Sami with 4ws and sticky 35s
Now that would be cool.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
Either that or sxs portals on Sami axles....
Rear steer idea will probably be cheaper. These Dana 30’s are everywhere, CHEAP.
There was a guy that did basically that with D44’s on the old place. Back halfed Sammy with two FSJ D44’s with chromo shafts in it and rear steer on 38” tires. Every time I read you blathering on about how bad D44 U-joint axles are i remember his rig. 2slow4u I think it was. Wheeled Fordyce, the Rubicon, Hollister or JV pretty much every weekend back in the day.Thats what I thought.
So many people make the sleeves and c gussets, I don't see it as a big deal. If I'm swapping the diff to pass drop, taking 5" out is no big deal.
I figured the sleeve kits would make splicing the tubes back together even easier.
It's twmping to do a Hp30 front and lp30 rear in my Sami with 4ws and sticky 35s
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Hilarious because a good buddy of mine bought it and couldn't keep rear shafts in it. Even went rcvs, and still had issues.
When he got it, it was not geared very low either and had to do a lot of clutch slipping on anything technical. Maybe that's why the original owner never broke.l much.
We sure we’re talking about the same rig? Had a 16V 5.89 axle gears and a 6.5 t-case?Hilarious because a good buddy of mine bought it and couldn't keep rear shafts in it. Even went rcvs, and still had issues.
When he got it, it was not geared very low either and had to do a lot of clutch slipping on anything technical. Maybe that's why the original owner never broke.l much.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Pretty sure. Had 38x11 boggers iirc.
When he got it it had a trackkick doubler with stock gears in both cases.
Either way, it had Waggy D44s f&r and broke a bunch of chromo rears before going rcvs, then had wierd issues with the shafts sliding out of the birfs.
My other buddy bought that somewhat 2002 famous lwb red samurai that was built on pbb. Had a 16v and probably one of the first ringr adapters to a Toyota trans. It also had an og allpro Toyota axle with D44 knuckles. He's probably broke dozens of D44 front axles over the years, never broke the 3rd from what i remember. While in the same group guys would drive the same trails with Toyota axles ran 30 splines for many years.
I'm no Toyota axle fan Boi, especially at these prices, but over all in my experience they hold up much better than the small D44 ujoint. Which is why I'd rather run an xj/tj/ect D30
Yeah that’s definitely the same rig. And I’m no fanboi of a 44 either. In my circle nobody could keep anything alive.Pretty sure. Had 38x11 boggers iirc.
When he got it it had a trackkick doubler with stock gears in both cases.
Either way, it had Waggy D44s f&r and broke a bunch of chromo rears before going rcvs, then had wierd issues with the shafts sliding out of the birfs.
My other buddy bought that somewhat 2002 famous lwb red samurai that was built on pbb. Had a 16v and probably one of the first ringr adapters to a Toyota trans. It also had an og allpro Toyota axle with D44 knuckles. He's probably broke dozens of D44 front axles over the years, never broke the 3rd from what i remember. While in the same group guys would drive the same trails with Toyota axles ran 30 splines for many years.
I'm no Toyota axle fan Boi, especially at these prices, but over all in my experience they hold up much better than the small D44 ujoint. Which is why I'd rather run an xj/tj/ect D30
The TJ/YJ/XJ use the same 5-760X size u-joint as that waggy 44. CJ 30 was smaller, D30 went to the 44 size joint when the YJ came out. But I think chromos are better in the newer housings with unit bearings.