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1991 Snow Tracker Build

JR4X said:
Yeah that’s definitely the same rig. And I’m no fanboi of a 44 either. In my circle nobody could keep anything alive.

The TJ/YJ/XJ use the same 5-760X size u-joint as that waggy 44. CJ 30 was smaller, D30 went to the 44 size joint when the YJ came out. But I think chromos are better in the newer housings with unit bearings.
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Yes, but when you get tired of breaking stock shafts, you can fit 1350 joint axles or much larger rcvs than a old style d44 or Toyota. Plus stronger stub shafts. Although at that point, you might start breaking r&p.

Also, think think the D30 is more properly sized to the 760s in stock form.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Either way, it had Waggy D44s f&r and broke a bunch of chromo rears before going rcvs, then had wierd issues with the shafts sliding out of the birfs.
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Spool?

I popped the inners out of my RCVs a few times back in the day. Full spool there is nothing for the inner shaft to bottom out against. The shaft will walk out and pop out, I trail fixed a broke one once with a socket jammed in between the axles to keep the broke inner in the cv. That was such a good Trail fix it turned out to be a permanent fix. :lmao:
 
Byro said:
Spool?

I popped the inners out of my RCVs a few times back in the day. Full spool there is nothing for the inner shaft to bottom out against. The shaft will walk out and pop out, I trail fixed a broke one once with a socket jammed in between the axles to keep the broke inner in the cv. That was such a good Trail fix it turned out to be a permanent fix. :lmao:
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Yep it was spooled.

On my brothers he used valve springs in the hub cap to keep everything pushed together to keep them from unsplining
 
JR4X said:
Yep it was spooled.

On my brothers he used valve springs in the hub cap to keep everything pushed together to keep them from unsplining
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You don't want the stub shoved in, you want it held out so the bift is up against the spindle.

They have a clip on the inner shaft that's supposed to hold it inside the birf. It shouldn't matter if it's spooled really, no idea why only those early D44 rcvs had that issue.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
You don't want the stub shoved in, you want it held out so the bift is up against the spindle.

They have a clip on the inner shaft that's supposed to hold it inside the birf. It shouldn't matter if it's spooled really, no idea why only those early D44 rcvs had that issue.
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Brothers front axle was a Currie housing with an arb so it had the cross pin in the locker. The only RCV issue he had was the circlip letting the stub slide out of the bell and stripping the end of the splines. Putting a spring in the cap held everything together under compression and never had further trouble.

Still didn’t trust it and went 609’s with CTM’s in his Toyota like us Rants asses tend to do.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
You don't want the stub shoved in, you want it held out so the bift is up against the spindle.

They have a clip on the inner shaft that's supposed to hold it inside the birf. It shouldn't matter if it's spooled really, no idea why only those early D44 rcvs had that issue.
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Glad to know it just wasn’t me.
 
JR4X said:
Brothers front axle was a Currie housing with an arb so it had the cross pin in the locker. The only RCV issue he had was the circlip letting the stub slide out of the bell and stripping the end of the splines. Putting a spring in the cap held everything together under compression and never had further trouble.

Still didn’t trust it and went 609’s with CTM’s in his Toyota like us Rants asses tend to do.
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Wierd, I've always heard not running a clip on the stub to hold it out was bad.

Another plus to the direct spline unit bearing axles I guess.
 
I really wasn’t sure how much good I had done with all that work. Forgot to take measurements before and after. :homer: So I used the Tracker and a rock to measure. :flipoff2:

This approach angle is so much better. There was no way that big chunky bumper would let me hit these two angles. I always ended up just pushing the bumper into the rock and couldn’t get it to clear.

My 13 yo son took some of these pics at weird angles. :laughing:

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I’ve always wanted a good yard rock.

Need to stick a piece of tube under the grille/filler piece. I could see that piece getting smoked pretty easily.
 
Byro said:
I’ve always wanted a good yard rock.

Need to stick a piece of tube under the grille/filler piece. I could see that piece getting smoked pretty easily.
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I see where you’re talking about. I’ll get something in there.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Thats what I thought.

So many people make the sleeves and c gussets, I don't see it as a big deal. If I'm swapping the diff to pass drop, taking 5" out is no big deal.

I figured the sleeve kits would make splicing the tubes back together even easier.

It's twmping to do a Hp30 front and lp30 rear in my Sami with 4ws and sticky 35s :laughing:
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There is a relatively current Sami build on NC4x4 with f/r steering d30s. “Getting the samurai to Harlan”
 
j.mcconnell said:
There is a relatively current Sami build on NC4x4 with f/r steering d30s. “Getting the samurai to Harlan”
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That’s my thread.

I missed all the Dana 30 discussion in this thread. But it’s working for me, I have a tj low pinion front that I swapped the tubes on.

I cut both tubes 3 inches from the Center and sleeved them with 2x.120 wall tube about 6 inches long. I added my desired caster and pinion angle when welding them on.

The drive shaft is a tj front shaft. I used the slip joint because it was stronger than the Sami one. The tj drive shaft is about the right size to slip inside a cutoff piece of Sami driveshaft to get the right size for the Sami tcase
 
We went out today and made it through the creek that blew my front end apart. It was quite the struggle and I had to winch out once.

I posted a thread a while ago with some land for sale where we wheel. I mentioned to my buddy almost a year ago that we needed to form an official off road club and start working towards securing land use. No one wanted to put in any effort with me, so I said fawk it. 99% of my wheeling has been traveling to wheel so I didn’t care, but they all wheel there once to twice a week. Sure enough, today we met the new land owner and unbeknownst to us the creek trail was on his land.

So, a ton of wheeling is now permanently gone. Land owner was super chill and getting ready to shut every entrance down onto his land. No one over there gives a fuck to keep land access for wheeling so neither do I.

Anyways, this Tracker is getting the plate, inspection, and insurance pulled. The other set of Toyotas are going under it and it’s getting built alongside the Sami.

My older kid needs something to keep him busy, so we’ll each have a crawler. We only wheel 2-3 times a year now…making a long weekend and hitting good trails is worth more than fucking around with this local stuff. The Tracker is already way overbuilt for the normal trails everyone runs. So, why waste energy?

That is all. No pics today since we were unknowingly illegally wheeling. :homer:
 
I’m looking at Spartan and Lock Right for the front Toyota axle right now…but really questioning if I should just weld the front, too and make the transfer case shiftable into 2 low.

I’ve never driven a welded front and rear vehicle in 2 low to know if it steers like shit, too, or not. Any opinions?
 
Spooled front’s definitely like to push, add a spooled rear and they ring will really push. 2 wheel makes the steering a little easier.

A buddy runs a Grizzly in the front of his Yota and really seems to like it.
 
FleshEater said:
I’m looking at Spartan and Lock Right for the front Toyota axle right now…but really questioning if I should just weld the front, too and make the transfer case shiftable into 2 low.

I’ve never driven a welded front and rear vehicle in 2 low to know if it steers like shit, too, or not. Any opinions?
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The spartan in my front axle is still turning 38s after like 5 years of abuse, I like that product for the cost.
Steer angle on yota axles isn't really their strong point, my truck starts getting a little boaty with the spartan front and spool rear when trails get tight. Your wheelbase would help with that a lot, but I'd still avoid the spool in front if possible.
That would be a good combo with 2 lo as well, since it'll unlock the spartan for tight maneuvers.
 
FleshEater said:
I’m looking at Spartan and Lock Right for the front Toyota axle right now…but really questioning if I should just weld the front, too and make the transfer case shiftable into 2 low.

I’ve never driven a welded front and rear vehicle in 2 low to know if it steers like shit, too, or not. Any opinions?
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I prefer spools front and rear out of simplicity but they suvk for turning sharp. Ill usually just wheel whith 1 hub locked in which easily gets me through 99% of what im doing and will accasiionally jump out and lock the other.
 
I had a rig that was welded front and rear once. Never again.

I did the one hub unlocked thing like 2BB mentioned, but it's a pain in the ass in my opinion, and having a dead wheel up front is worse than just having an open diff.

Welded or spooled in the back doesn't really bother me at all offroad, but it sucks on the road. Not that you likely care for your application though.
 
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