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1991 Snow Tracker Build

YotaAtieToo said:
Would it make sense to stay 22 spline then? Isn't the cv the weak point either way?

Then swap to 26 spline when or if you go toyota CVs
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I couldn’t. The Sami locker was 26 spline. I had everything except one CV that was like $25 or $30 from Rock Auto. Meh. I can save it for a spare for my 96 anyways.
 
FleshEater said:
I couldn’t. The Sami locker was 26 spline. I had everything except one CV that was like $25 or $30 from Rock Auto. Meh. I can save it for a spare for my 96 anyways.
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Which locker?

Most lunch boxes use the stock spider gears. But maybe there are some who come with new?
 
FleshEater said:
I found that information from the old site. Someone might have tossed two rears in yours, giving you 26 spline front and rear?
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No, I had to put the 26 spline gears in the front diff for the rcvs. I don't remember any clearance issues. I thought the carriers were the same is what I meant.

Or maybe I just put an extra rear 3rd in the front with a Spartan.

JR4X said:
It’s true though. Back when I had piles of them. I just put cheap lockers in rear thirds. Moved them to the front and used the trail tough double tough axles. (Still in a samurai)
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So the carriers are different, not just the side gears?
 
YotaAtieToo said:
No, I had to put the 26 spline gears in the front diff for the rcvs. I don't remember any clearance issues. I thought the carriers were the same is what I meant.

Or maybe I just put an extra rear 3rd in the front with a Spartan.



So the carriers are different, not just the side gears?
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No, just the side gears were different. Everything else was exactly the same. I only had 4 pin thirds though
 
Now that I think of it, I tried to put 26sp side gear from the rear of a track kick and they were very close. Close enough that I was able to just grind them enough to put them in an extra 3rd and weld it up for a spare.

Maybe that's the clearancing he read about?
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Now that I think of it, I tried to put 26sp side gear from the rear of a track kick and they were very close. Close enough that I was able to just grind them enough to put them in an extra 3rd and weld it up for a spare.

Maybe that's the clearancing he read about?
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It was a YouTube video just so I could see all of this before I tore into the Samurai 3rd. The guy said he had grind the carrier to fit the spider gears and then something else about them not laying flush. He failed to mention in the video it was from the front 3rd on a Samurai. So I was pleasantly surprised when the rear all worked out.

I got my can and solid spacer yesterday. Just waiting on the Spartan.

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Man I have no idea, I would have sworn they just swapped over, but now you have me doubting it. Either way, looks like you have the parts to make it happen.

Curious how the tracker gears in the Sami 3rd go. I have all the same parts to put 4.62s in my sami front, just need the hybrid rear housing.
 
My trackkick buddy was over the other day and we were staring at it while he was talking about all sorts of ideas. Build the IFS, SAS it, ect. I said spend $4k on a gigglepin 8274, slap it on the front, and go whereever you want, when you destroy the trackkick, you'll still have a gigglepin 8274 :flipoff2:
 
Homemade bracket looks like garbage and the bolt holes don’t line up perfectly. :homer:

All that’s left is to fight the 26 spline CV back into the diff and put the 2 bolts in the 3rd member bracket. Excited to get this out and see what it does.

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FleshEater said:
Homemade bracket looks like garbage and the bolt holes don’t line up perfectly. :homer:

All that’s left is to fight the 26 spline CV back into the diff and put the 2 bolts in the 3rd member bracket. Excited to get this out and see what it does.

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A strong weld doesnt need to look pretty. If anything happens I assume it will be the diff cracking around the weld
 
Is the diff cast iron or steel?

I've seen cast iron weld lay down pretty decent like that. But eventually peel off.

I don't see it having that much stress really, but if it were mine, I'd wrap some flat bar around the whole pinion welded to the mount on both sides.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
Is the diff cast iron or steel?

I've seen cast iron weld lay down pretty decent like that. But eventually peel off.

I don't see it having that much stress really, but if it were mine, I'd wrap some flat bar around the whole pinion welded to the mount on both sides.
Click to expand...

Since lots of people have done this I’m assuming it’s steel. There is zero clearance to wrap anything around this housing. It’s laying on the crossmember and almost touching the oil pan.

I am really second guessing this now. If that weld cracks off it will blow apart my front housing. I’m going to just spend time looking at this tonight and see if I can think of a secondary idea to keep it stable.

But, if it’s cast iron, those welds usually crack as it cools, right? I’ve only welded cast iron once, and it cracked as soons as it cooled.
 
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FleshEater said:
Since lots of people have done this I’m assuming it’s steel. There is zero clearance to wrap anything around this housing. It’s laying on the crossmember and almost touching the oil pan.

I am really second guessing this now. If that weld cracks off it will blow apart my front housing. I’m going to just spend time looking at this tonight and see if I can think of a secondary idea to keep it stable.

But, if it’s cast iron, those welds usually crack as it cools, right? I’ve only welded cast iron once, and it cracked as soons as it cooled.
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I couldn't remember if the crossmember was over or under.

If it's under, it can't really go anywhere. It should want to go down under tq.
 
ParadisePWoffrd said:
You can drill/tap the output shaft on the tcase and use a sami axle flange for the SYE.
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Since I just pulled the Samurai 3rd and confirmed this with the pinion flange, do you know of a CV driveshaft I can swap in? I can’t use my fixed driveshaft with the fixed flange on the t-case, right?
 
FleshEater said:
Since I just pulled the Samurai 3rd and confirmed this with the pinion flange, do you know of a CV driveshaft I can swap in? I can’t use my fixed driveshaft with the fixed flange on the t-case, right?
Click to expand...

The easiest would be Sami driveshafts, not CVs, but decent shafts for thier size.

The next would be toyota, there is a few different ways to do it, if you lucked out, you have the large flanges and they'll almost bolt in.
 
YotaAtieToo said:
The easiest would be Sami driveshafts, not CVs, but decent shafts for thier size.

The next would be toyota, there is a few different ways to do it, if you lucked out, you have the large flanges and they'll almost bolt in.
Click to expand...

Right after I posted that I thought of measuring the Samurai shaft.
 
FleshEater said:
Right after I posted that I thought of measuring the Samurai shaft.
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They seem to be on par with the zuk drivetrain strength wise as long as you don't have axle wrap. I broke a few back in the day with spring over on flat springs and went toyota. On my current rig I've beat it pretty hard with spring under and no issues.

With ifs and 3 link, you should be good.
 
I’ve got an issue with this whole job I did.

Hopefully a Zuk guru chimes in on this. The 26 spline CV’s are causing me a pile if headache getting them seated into the passenger side carrier. It’s like 1/1000’s too tight. However, I’m having issues even getting this into a 96’ carrier I have on the bench.

So maybe they’re all tighter than a nun’s forbidden word.

Made this up for the Hagen mod and it stops as soon as it hits past the splines.

My thinking right now is lightly hitting the shaft with a flap disk. Stupid idea? :homer:

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YotaAtieToo said:
Is that the stock front 26 sp carrier in the pics?
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Yeah, but I messed up bad ASSuming all this stuff works together and it doesn’t. Not even close.

Samurai rear axle shaft is 26.13mm diameter and the Geo shaft is 34.92mm.

I don’t know what to do now. I either have to tear this all apart and have someone machine the Samurai carrier or I machine the CV stub shaft.

EDIT: When I checked this fitment I used the long side 26 spline axle shaft, which fit perfectly.

Apparently the CV stub shaft is way thicker. So I need to track down a long side shaft and make the Hagen mod stub with that?
 
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