Byro
Lurkin’
No shit. I thought it required de-pinning and some sorcery. Although I’ve never looked at it really close. My rocker is fully smooshed and I’d like to get the harness out of there. If I can.
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1991 Snow Tracker Build
- Thread starter FleshEater
- Start date
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- Tags
- suzuki
No shit. I thought it required de-pinning and some sorcery. Although I’ve never looked at it really close. My rocker is fully smooshed and I’d like to get the harness out of there. If I can.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
It’s that wiring harness right by your left foot in the driver’s seat.
And then a wire for the seat belt goes in there, too.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
Holy hell…this escalated quickly tonight. 
Good news, pretty sure I found the issue.
Bad news, I did 10 times more work than needed. But it’s because we couldn’t follow the wires properly from under the dash.
Anyways, I’m in it so deep, I’m getting the wires off the side of manifold now.
Oh, and it was the damn back up lamp to 4WD light wires melted together.
It looks like I’m “close” to doing a heater core, but not really. I don’t know that I want to do that right now. I should…but I don’t want to.
Good news, pretty sure I found the issue.
Bad news, I did 10 times more work than needed. But it’s because we couldn’t follow the wires properly from under the dash.
Anyways, I’m in it so deep, I’m getting the wires off the side of manifold now.
Oh, and it was the damn back up lamp to 4WD light wires melted together.
It looks like I’m “close” to doing a heater core, but not really. I don’t know that I want to do that right now. I should…but I don’t want to.
Byro
Lurkin’
Dude. Damn.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
I know, but my biggest fear was letting something go and this burning to the ground.
It all came apart quick. Probably going to take 5 times longer to put back.
Do the heater core! Fawk tearing it apart again. Glad you found it.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
Right where I am was actually super quick to get to. I was really surprised how quickly the dash comes off.
Think it matters which one?
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
knock on wood all the jap stuff I've had with 250-350k miles has never had a problem with a heater core.
I'm of the if it isn't broke don't fix it, but I also can get the "while I'm here" thought
I'm of the if it isn't broke don't fix it, but I also can get the "while I'm here" thought
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
I HATE replacing Denso/Aisin parts with shitty Mexican or Chinese made junk.
I think I’m going to leave it, do a hard coolant flush next summer and call it good. All I really did was pull the dash off. It took 20 minutes after I found all the bolts/screws. Super simple.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Thats the other thing. I trust the 30 year old jap stuff or even some ford or whatever a lot more than parts store junk.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
Well, I said fawk doing a heater core.
Almost back together. Hopefully firing it up tomorrow.
Almost back together. Hopefully firing it up tomorrow.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
Well, I got everything tested. I’m missing something from pulling the wires out of the rocker panel. Everything works, but when my lights are on both turn signal arrows on the dash are green non stop. Have you guys ever seen a connector like this? I’m pretty sure I’m missing something between these two things and I need to make a new connection.
I know something went into this and I CANNOT find it.
I know something went into this and I CANNOT find it.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
This is what I have now when I turn on the lights. My high beam indicator also no longer works. Fawk this wiring bullshit. I’m about done.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
I figured out the problem above. The tow harness has to be plugged in.
Anyways, now the wipers don’t work and it won’t start. Tearing into that harness under the hood tomorrow. I already found 2 grounds on the distributor broken open.
Anyways, now the wipers don’t work and it won’t start. Tearing into that harness under the hood tomorrow. I already found 2 grounds on the distributor broken open.
SamuraiKodish
Member
- Joined
- Jul 7, 2020
- Member Number
- 2265
- Messages
- 12
the first picture is a diode.Well, I got everything tested. I’m missing something from pulling the wires out of the rocker panel. Everything works, but when my lights are on both turn signal arrows on the dash are green non stop. Have you guys ever seen a connector like this? I’m pretty sure I’m missing something between these two things and I need to make a new connection.
I know something went into this and I CANNOT find it.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
Well, I’m real close to giving up.
Fuel pump and wiper/washer doesn’t work now.
I’m just done chasing these wires. Everything is tied into everything and it’s fucking impossible. I don’t see a way to fix this without tearing the whole harness out and either replacing it or just custom wiring everything myself.
Fuel pump and wiper/washer doesn’t work now.
I’m just done chasing these wires. Everything is tied into everything and it’s fucking impossible. I don’t see a way to fix this without tearing the whole harness out and either replacing it or just custom wiring everything myself.
You've just missed a connection somewhere or didn't reconnect a ground. I agree, suzuki wiring sucks.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
Well my rear defroster light is on, wipers are not working, and my fuel pump has no power.
I’m going to tear into every single part of the harness down the passenger side next. For all I know all those could share a ground that’s burnt or something.
I ordered a 1991 Geo Tracker electrical diagnosis book off eBay last night.
This is so stupid. I still have no idea why that fuse didn’t blow and just melted.
ParadisePWoffrd
Recovering Project Junkie
One thing to note, on the kicks alot of things are switched on the ground side vs the + side. When I was trying to add circuits to my last one, knowing this helped a ton.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
I’m slightly electrically retarded, so I don’t know what that means.
ParadisePWoffrd
Recovering Project Junkie
On most vehicles, the switches are on the positive side (coming from the + side of the battery). Meaning, the wire goes from a power supply, to the switch, to the device (light), then to ground.
On the zuk, some of the switches are on the negative side (coming from battery - or ground). Meaning, the circuit goes from power supply, to device (light), then to switch, then to ground.
Why that matters: If you tie the wrong part of the circuit to ground, the device (light) will stay on all the time or not at all. One side of the device has to go to ground, and the other side has to go to power. The switch has to live totally on one side or the other.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
That would makes sense as to why all of my grounds got boogered up in this.
I haven’t re-wired anything yet. Just replacing melted, cut, burnt pieces with good wiring.
I’m looking at Painless harnesses now…if I can’t find something obviously wrong on the passenger side of all this wiring, I might ditch it all and wire my own. I can handle that. Fixing and repairing all this shit that’s spliced 4 times in 10’ is a fucking nightmare.
2big bronco
Og irate
Does the fuel pump get power without cranking? I know my 89 does not
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
It doesn’t prime when you turn the key forward?
Hmmm…now I need to pull the fuel hose off and crank and see if it sprays it across the shop.
YotaAtieToo
Thick skull
Toyotas are this way also.
The fuel pump doesn't prime until you hit the starter.
The fuel pump doesn't prime until you hit the starter.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
Nope, no power going to the fuel pump.
I’m really thinking I fried the PCM or ECM, whatever it’s called.
I have the dash all tore apart…again. Anyone know how to test one of those 90’s systems to see if that’s the problem?
I’m really thinking I fried the PCM or ECM, whatever it’s called.
I have the dash all tore apart…again. Anyone know how to test one of those 90’s systems to see if that’s the problem?
skyhiranger
Well-known member
The fuel pump relay and the main relay are by the ECM.
As far as the fuel pump not running...make sure the fuel pump connector is plugged in at the tank. I thought all trackicks primed the fuel system for 3 seconds when the key is turned to the run position. But maybe I am not remembering correctly. If it does, you will hear the fuel pump relay click off 3 seconds after you turn the key to the run position.
91s were one of the years that commonly had ECM issues. Generally ECM issues don't cause the fuel pump not to run. It usually keeps the injector from firing...in my experience.
Make sure you got all your grounds connected from when you had the wiring harness out/loose. I believe there is a ground wire that is grounded to the body in behind the left tail light.
As far as the fuel pump not running...make sure the fuel pump connector is plugged in at the tank. I thought all trackicks primed the fuel system for 3 seconds when the key is turned to the run position. But maybe I am not remembering correctly. If it does, you will hear the fuel pump relay click off 3 seconds after you turn the key to the run position.
91s were one of the years that commonly had ECM issues. Generally ECM issues don't cause the fuel pump not to run. It usually keeps the injector from firing...in my experience.
Make sure you got all your grounds connected from when you had the wiring harness out/loose. I believe there is a ground wire that is grounded to the body in behind the left tail light.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
So, I have everything unwrapped from the harness tape/plastic and plugged in and grounded where it should be.
I’m digging through wires under the dash to see if I’m missing something under there.
Hopefully my factory Geo electrical diagnosis book from eBay will be here soon so I can see what’s all tied into these circuits. Right now I’m basically troubleshooting from the fuse block to the relay for my fuel pump issue. Then I’ll go from the relay out.
The last time I drove this my wipers got real slow and almost stopped, and all my dash lights dimmed. I thought it was my alternator. Pretty sure it was just shit getting fucked up under the dash and everywhere in between.
I’m digging through wires under the dash to see if I’m missing something under there.
Hopefully my factory Geo electrical diagnosis book from eBay will be here soon so I can see what’s all tied into these circuits. Right now I’m basically troubleshooting from the fuse block to the relay for my fuel pump issue. Then I’ll go from the relay out.
The last time I drove this my wipers got real slow and almost stopped, and all my dash lights dimmed. I thought it was my alternator. Pretty sure it was just shit getting fucked up under the dash and everywhere in between.
skyhiranger
Well-known member
I also just remembered I have had connectors where the pins were corroded, which caused poor connections. So I'd also look at all the connectors between the fuse block and fuel pump, to make sure the pins are clean. If they are corroded, you can clean them up with a tiny piece of sandpaper, if the corrosion is just on the outside of the pins and hasn't eaten the pins away. Wouldn't hurt to put some dielectric grease on the pins, before snapping the connectors back together, even is there is no corrosion.
If wipers got slow and dash lights dimmed, it could also be the main feed from the battery to the wiring harness. There should be large gauge wire (white/yellow maybe) that runs from the battery to in under the dash...or it might run to the little fuse block that sits on the passengers side fenderwell under the hood (don't recall offhand where the main feed wire runs on a 91 tracker). I have had the single round connector by the battery for this wire get brittle and not want to stay together, which causes a poor connection. Might also want to check the fuse block on the fenderwell for bad connections and blown fuses.
Dimmed lights and slow wipers could have also been caused by something drawing way more amps from the battery than normal and therefore the lights and wipers aren't getting a full 12.6 volts or so from the battery. The wiper motor could be going bad and be drawing more amps, which could/would cause slow wipers and dimmed lights.
I have also seen where fuses don't make good connections in the fuse block itself. The terminals that the fuse legs fit into get spread and there is a weak connection, which results in increased resistance, which results in a low voltage situation or no connection at all.
I know there is a lot of speculation and guessing in my post, but there is a myriad of things that can cause what you are experiencing...or it could be multiple issues. You are just going to have to start troubleshooting one thing (I'd probably start with checking voltage and resistance values at certain points along the harness), figure out what is causing the issue, fix it and go onto the next issue, if one is still present.
If wipers got slow and dash lights dimmed, it could also be the main feed from the battery to the wiring harness. There should be large gauge wire (white/yellow maybe) that runs from the battery to in under the dash...or it might run to the little fuse block that sits on the passengers side fenderwell under the hood (don't recall offhand where the main feed wire runs on a 91 tracker). I have had the single round connector by the battery for this wire get brittle and not want to stay together, which causes a poor connection. Might also want to check the fuse block on the fenderwell for bad connections and blown fuses.
Dimmed lights and slow wipers could have also been caused by something drawing way more amps from the battery than normal and therefore the lights and wipers aren't getting a full 12.6 volts or so from the battery. The wiper motor could be going bad and be drawing more amps, which could/would cause slow wipers and dimmed lights.
I have also seen where fuses don't make good connections in the fuse block itself. The terminals that the fuse legs fit into get spread and there is a weak connection, which results in increased resistance, which results in a low voltage situation or no connection at all.
I know there is a lot of speculation and guessing in my post, but there is a myriad of things that can cause what you are experiencing...or it could be multiple issues. You are just going to have to start troubleshooting one thing (I'd probably start with checking voltage and resistance values at certain points along the harness), figure out what is causing the issue, fix it and go onto the next issue, if one is still present.
FleshEater
Ordinary Average Guy
I cleaned all my grounds tonight.
I now have .10 volts on the fuel pump relay when cranking. I unplugged the back up lamp switch and the 4WD light and it went up to .20 volts.
My guess is that something on that endless line pf wire is causing a serious voltage drop. Problem is that it changes colors when it goes under the hood. So I have no idea what goes to what, or what’s causing the voltage drop.
I’m getting real close to putting this on a switch by itself, and figuring out the wipers later.
Also, should my alternator have 12 volts with the key on, or only when it’s running?
Almost forgot the pics of the fawking mess. I’m trying to track this issue down…
I now have .10 volts on the fuel pump relay when cranking. I unplugged the back up lamp switch and the 4WD light and it went up to .20 volts.
My guess is that something on that endless line pf wire is causing a serious voltage drop. Problem is that it changes colors when it goes under the hood. So I have no idea what goes to what, or what’s causing the voltage drop.
I’m getting real close to putting this on a switch by itself, and figuring out the wipers later.
Also, should my alternator have 12 volts with the key on, or only when it’s running?
Almost forgot the pics of the fawking mess. I’m trying to track this issue down…