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1991 Snow Tracker Build

Exactly, I hoard the shit and dont even know why... and then dont want to sell it for any amount. "Im going to do xxx with it someday"... wtf am I ever going to do with 10 samurai bodys, 5 rollers, 4 sets of axles, and a pallet of tcases?

Wealth isn't always measured in dollars :lmao::flipoff2:

Even when I got my first samurai in like 04 the couple other guys I met had a huge stash of parts rigs. Next thing I know, I got an extra set of axles, a spare tub, ect :laughing:
 
you could drill the frame and install weld washers. They would already be tapped for the thread, and wouldnt spin later.

I got me an idea…the idea will also lend to easy clean out of…salt.

I’ll be losing 3/16” of ground clearance, but I think I can handle that. Everything will be well braced and secured.
 
Exactly, I hoard the shit and dont even know why... and then dont want to sell it for any amount. "Im going to do xxx with it someday"... wtf am I ever going to do with 10 samurai bodys, 5 rollers, 4 sets of axles, and a pallet of tcases?

I know what I wouldn’t mind doing with all that! :flipoff2:
 
Exactly, I hoard the shit and dont even know why... and then dont want to sell it for any amount. "Im going to do xxx with it someday"... wtf am I ever going to do with 10 samurai bodys, 5 rollers, 4 sets of axles, and a pallet of tcases?

Sell one to me..? :homer:
 
Like so.

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Surprisingly enough I can slide a wrench in there. If not a nut welded to the back would do the trick. I’ll be employing the same technique for my Tracker whenever I get around to it.
 
Like so.

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Surprisingly enough I can slide a wrench in there. If not a nut welded to the back would do the trick. I’ll be employing the same technique for my Tracker whenever I get around to it.

I ended up with a similar idea. Probably way heavier steel than needed, but oh well. Got them all laid out. Still need to clean the frame rails down.

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Then I also came up with an idea for the spare tire location, since I can’t carry a 32”.

I need to find a decent sized military can to bolt to the back. It can help hold recovery gear. There’s not a lot of room inside with back seats. So I’m hunting down something for that.

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Today I drilled out the skid plate. Also ripped off all the plastic on the passenger side over a rock (rock sliders are next on the list to build). So I pulled the plastic all around and sprayed it.

Can’t wait to take this out again!
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Slot the lower a arm holes and push the rear bolts out ~1/4" and front bolts in ~1/4". Should keep you camber the same, but push the axle forward ~1"? And give you a little extra caster.

Looks sweet on the 32s BTW.
 
Slot the lower a arm holes and push the rear bolts out ~1/4" and front bolts in ~1/4". Should keep you camber the same, but push the axle forward ~1"? And give you a little extra caster.

Looks sweet on the 32s BTW.

I don’t know about the slotting idea. It’ll just turn my toe in and not really move the arms forward.

I should just ask Altered Ego if their control arms fit OEM springs.
 
I don’t know about the slotting idea. It’ll just turn my toe in and not really move the arms forward.

I should just ask Altered Ego if their control arms fit OEM springs.

You're thinking about it backwards.

It absolutely will, I just did it on my 4runner and was shocked how much it moved it forward. Thats litteraly what those adjusters are for.
 
You're thinking about it backwards.

It absolutely will, I just did it on my 4runner and was shocked how much it moved it forward. Thats litteraly what those adjusters are for.

Yeah, I see it now…but I’m not buying new factory control arms right now.

I know you’re going to say I won’t need new ones, but you don’t deal with rust. I’ll have to cut those arms off to notch those holes.
 
Yeah, I see it now…but I’m not buying new factory control arms right now.

I know you’re going to say I won’t need new ones, but you don’t deal with rust. I’ll have to cut those arms off to notch those holes.

I swear I wouldn't be remotely into modifying trucks if I lived where you live :laughing:

Just move west already :flipoff2:
 
Ya, but just imagine...... if you can...... just unbolting stuff and putting it back together with the same hardware. :flipoff2:

I’ve done it. The 84’ Bronco was from Texas. It was glorious.

Cam bolts/CA bolts always freeze up here. It always ends with cutting arms off.
 
I’ve done it. The 84’ Bronco was from Texas. It was glorious.

Cam bolts/CA bolts always freeze up here. It always ends with cutting arms off.

Makes sense being low and getting salt spray constantly.

I've had leaf spring bolts do that and it's a nightmare. Especially the wierd leaf bolt deals that Toyota used for a long time.

How y’all make any money on selling the customer parts then? And the extra labor to cut the old junk shit out? :flipoff2:

We just sue everyone to make money out west :flipoff2:
 
Man, I might actually attempt slotting this out…

I don’t want to drop $657 on those Altered Ego arms.
 
Man, I might actually attempt slotting this out…

I don’t want to drop $657 on those Altered Ego arms.
I wonder if one of these bolts would be the right size?

Stop Cam Alignment Kit Toyota Tacoma 05-15 4Runner 03-09 - Bison Off Road

Then just weld key stock next to it like Toyota. That way you aren't just relying on bolt torque to hold it.

Also if the bolts are siezed, you can cut the bolt head and nut flush off with frame mount. Pry the frame mount out a little to get the arm out, then just torch the bushings and sleeves out.

Easier said than done obviously :flipoff2:
 
I wonder if one of these bolts would be the right size?

Stop Cam Alignment Kit Toyota Tacoma 05-15 4Runner 03-09 - Bison Off Road

Then just weld key stock next to it like Toyota. That way you aren't just relying on bolt torque to hold it.

Also if the bolts are siezed, you can cut the bolt head and nut flush off with frame mount. Pry the frame mount out a little to get the arm out, then just torch the bushings and sleeves out.

Easier said than done obviously :flipoff2:

Have you ever seen anyone do this, or am I the guinea pig? :laughing:

I was going to weld a grade 8 washer in so I didn’t have to rely on torque.
 
Have you ever seen anyone do this, or am I the guinea pig? :laughing:

I was going to weld a grade 8 washer in so I didn’t have to rely on torque.

Thats how I've done leafs that the bolt was rusted in the sleeve.

That works too if you get it perfect. But I'd buy some weld washer from Barnes 4x4 or ruffstuff instead of a regular washer.
 
Id just weld the bolt where you want it to stay. Weld just enough and an easy to get to spot to grind it later.


The weld washer idea is much better but i dont have the patients to wait for stuff in the mail and being a suzuki I usually default to the "thats about good enough right there... tack tack"
 
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Got it clearanced. At least for 10psi. :laughing:

There is like a 1/16” of rub in one tiny spot. I smashed the floor board in so much I almost had to adjust the clutch again. Instead I cut my floor mat. :lmao:

The rear stuffs hard. I’m leaving it. The cut I already made is stuffed with body caulking and it’s nice and soft.

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Can you space the bump stops down a bit in the rear?

If it rubs slightly in the driveway, it will rub bad on the trail. Stuff tends to flex more when all the wieght is on one corner. :laughing:
 
Can you space the bump stops down a bit in the rear?

If it rubs slightly in the driveway, it will rub bad on the trail. Stuff tends to flex more when all the wieght is on one corner. :laughing:
I know exactly what you mean.

No. I’ll have to build nee bumpstops.
 
Ill be interested in how you like it. Cant recall if you went 4.24 or not. My 8v with 32-34s was a turd. High range was useless and low range wasnt low enough to crawl anything. Ended up dropping back to 30s to get more power back. I wish there was a good way to add a ~1.5 reduction box in the mix somewhere.
 
Ill be interested in how you like it. Cant recall if you went 4.24 or not. My 8v with 32-34s was a turd. High range was useless and low range wasnt low enough to crawl anything. Ended up dropping back to 30s to get more power back. I wish there was a good way to add a ~1.5 reduction box in the mix somewhere.

I did go 4.24. I can tell the crawl isn’t as slow, but is still way better than stock on 30’s.

2 high on the road is great, but I also just did all new valves and the power is as good as it can be.

Itching to get it out and crawl up some creek beds with it and test it. I’m less worried about bumping over stuff with the bigger tires and solid skid plate now.
 
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