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1991 Snow Tracker Build

First of all, if you have covid, just rest up and get it over with :homer::flipoff2:

As far as the spring, they should obviously have the same springs on both sides. Post pics of what you got.

I had to move around yesterday man. Can’t just loaf all the time. My sanity can’t take it!!!!

I’ll post up soon. I rushed that job. I want to go back and do it better.

Finding stuff on Track/Kick Aisin hubs is not easy. Lots of stuff for Toyotas, but I don’t think they’re the same.

I don’t know. They are on the wheels on the XJ already so I can’t weigh them accurately. They were way heavier than the 30x9.50 Generals they replaced. They aren’t light.

Looked it up and saw they’re almost 50lbs.

I’ll stick with my SXS tires for $200 more. But thanks for the information! :smokin:
 
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I had to move around yesterday man. Can’t just loaf all the time. My sanity can’t take it!!!!

I’ll post up soon. I rushed that job. I want to go back and do it better.

Finding stuff on Track/Kick Aisin hubs is not easy. Lots of stuff for Toyotas, but I don’t think they’re the same.

They're basically identical except for the gear that slides on the axle shaft. I've even swapped a Toyota gear into a samurai hub and used it on a Toyota.

Quick Google says there is a minor difference between the track kick and Sami hubs, but only because of where the snap ring goes on the axle shaft. Mechanically they operate the same.

Most any Japanese rig with asin hubs will interchange at least the dials and outter gear.

Looked it up and saw they’re almost 50lbs.

I’ll stick with my SXS tires for $200 more. But thanks for the information! :smokin:

Thats the thing that people don't get. These sxs tires are so much lighter. 20 lbs per corner of rotating mass is huge in a 59 hp vehicle :laughing:
 
They're basically identical except for the gear that slides on the axle shaft. I've even swapped a Toyota gear into a samurai hub and used it on a Toyota.

Quick Google says there is a minor difference between the track kick and Sami hubs, but only because of where the snap ring goes on the axle shaft. Mechanically they operate the same.

Most any Japanese rig with asin hubs will interchange at least the dials and outter gear.



Thats the thing that people don't get. These sxs tires are so much lighter. 20 lbs per corner of rotating mass is huge in a 59 hp vehicle :laughing:

Then I’m missing a spring.

I need to get the trans and t case out of the blue Zuk, and drop it on the rotors. Then I can more easily mess with those Aisin hubs with rusty bolts.
 
Then I’m missing a spring.

I need to get the trans and t case out of the blue Zuk, and drop it on the rotors. Then I can more easily mess with those Aisin hubs with rusty bolts.

If you want a trail spare, keep an eye out for a 2nd gen at the JY or whatever. They use a solid drive flange. The only bummer is they didn't cut the taper for the cone washers.

I have always tried to keep one flange as a trail spare Toyota or zuk, since it's small and simple. In reality, the asin hubs are so strong, even built up chromoly Toyota axles rarely hurt them. It's usually more an issue with them being assembled incorrectly and not locking right.
 
If you want a trail spare, keep an eye out for a 2nd gen at the JY or whatever. They use a solid drive flange. The only bummer is they didn't cut the taper for the cone washers.

I have always tried to keep one flange as a trail spare Toyota or zuk, since it's small and simple. In reality, the asin hubs are so strong, even built up chromoly Toyota axles rarely hurt them. It's usually more an issue with them being assembled incorrectly and not locking right.

I’m honestly more worried about corrosion and what not wheeling in salty winters.

These have awesome gaskets, but they’re going to wear out and I can’t find replacement parts anywhere. Rock Auto still has new Aisin hubs, but they’re $95 each.

It’d also be nice to just have as many spares as possible. Preparing for all these parts to dry up and disappear soon.
 
I’m honestly more worried about corrosion and what not wheeling in salty winters.

These have awesome gaskets, but they’re going to wear out and I can’t find replacement parts anywhere. Rock Auto still has new Aisin hubs, but they’re $95 each.

It’d also be nice to just have as many spares as possible. Preparing for all these parts to dry up and disappear soon.

Makes sense. Those gaskets are good, I don't think I've ever put a new one on :laughing:

All suzuki guys are hoarders. The parts are free or cheap when you don't need them. But can't find one when you need it, and those online suzuki places are pretty expensive.
 
They're basically identical except for the gear that slides on the axle shaft. I've even swapped a Toyota gear into a samurai hub and used it on a Toyota.

Quick Google says there is a minor difference between the track kick and Sami hubs, but only because of where the snap ring goes on the axle shaft. Mechanically they operate the same.

Most any Japanese rig with asin hubs will interchange at least the dials and outter gear.



Thats the thing that people don't get. These sxs tires are so much lighter. 20 lbs per corner of rotating mass is huge in a 59 hp vehicle :laughing:
He should have a lot more than 59 hp. I hope
 
Feel accomplished now. :flipoff2:

Got my butt off the couch for a bit to tackle at least one of those hubs again.

I tore it 100% down and hit everything with a wire wheel. A lot of the metal is pitted, so I’m assuming water got in there at some point.

Side note, I still need to make new gaskets for these unless someone has a link for a parts kit. :homer:

Anyways, figured out that spring. Now I also realize I need a new spring for my other spare. But I’m pretty sure it will still work, just not as well. If anything it will get me off a trail if needed.

These are not any different than the write ups I found for Toyota Aisin hubs as stated above by Yotatietoo. Here’s my pics for reference. The cap side is easy and pretty self explanatory.

Spring in question.
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Assembling order.

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I think it needs the spring. I just use permeated grey gasket sealer, btw.
 
I think it needs the spring. I just use permeated grey gasket sealer, btw.

See, I was going to do that but worried about servicing them. Is it a pain to get them apart again?

I really like the ease of just opening the cap or pulling the whole hub off the knuckle.
 

According to what they list in description the samurai gasket could be used on the sidekick as well?

But not understanding why you could find samurai and Toyota hub gaskets everywhere but nothing really shows up for the track/kick.
 
See, I was going to do that but worried about servicing them. Is it a pain to get them apart again?

I really like the ease of just opening the cap or pulling the whole hub off the knuckle.
It isnt too bad but the rtv isnt reusable
 

According to what they list in description the samurai gasket could be used on the sidekick as well?

But not understanding why you could find samurai and Toyota hub gaskets everywhere but nothing really shows up for the track/kick.

Being Japanese it doesn’t surprise me. They probably made all the externals close enough for gaskets. Then just changed interior design and parts per application.

I’ll order up some Sami gaskets and try them out.
 
Being Japanese it doesn’t surprise me. They probably made all the externals close enough for gaskets. Then just changed interior design and parts per application.

I’ll order up some Sami gaskets and try them out.
I would not be surprised if they're identical in the ways you mentioned and the gaskets are interchangeable. I've never had a track/kick hub or I'd compare the 2 for you.

I find it weird that I couldn't find much cross-referencing for the gasket though. You'd think the tracker model would be the common gasket and the samurai and sidekick would be the "also fits models", go figure.
 
I got the belly skid all measured and cut out. In 18” there was about 1.5” of narrowing towards the front.

Still debating how I want to mount this. Original idea was to notch and bend two lips and bolt them to the sides. However this is 3/16” plate and I don’t have a bender. So I scratched that idea.

I really don’t want bolt heads on the bottom. They’ll get trashed.

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Throw a couple of inch long welds down the length of it right to the frame.

That or tab off the inside of the rail and use a 1/2” bolt. They’ll take quite a beating. Never-seize the piss out of the threads and they’ll come right out when needed. Or if you wanna get super fancy use some counter sunk allen heads. When using allen heads in a spot like that I like to put a dab of grease in the heads. It’s surprising how much easier they come out when they aren’t packed with dirt.
 
Bolt head will get beat up, but who cares.

I do like horizontal bolts over vertical though on skids. Is there a small fab shop near by that could bend or cut and weld it for you?

Don't forget to sleeve the frame or it will crush in on you. :laughing:
 
Do you guys think riveted threaded inserts would hold?

The counter sunk bolts or screws is sounding like the best course of action.

My only concern about my original idea is that if I hit a rock straight on, all that shear force is straight back. That would put all the force on the tabs and the side of the frame.

I need to eliminate the cat and massage the trans crossmember a bit so I can get this perfectly flat.
 
If you shear 6-8 1/2” bolts, hell you could even go 7/16”, you’ve got bigger problems than pealing the skid off.
 
If you shear 6-8 1/2” bolts, hell you could even go 7/16”, you’ve got bigger problems than pealing the skid off.

You know those times when you’re cruising around 10-12 mph and misjudge something? :homer::laughing:

Anyways, do you think rivet threaded inserts would be fine? I’ll do four down each side.
 
You know those times when you’re cruising around 10-12 mph and misjudge something? :homer::laughing:

Anyways, do you think rivet threaded inserts would be fine? I’ll do four down each side.
Probably, but I wouldn't do countersunk. It sounds good and all, but you'll be cussing them when you have to pull them.

Maybe this is the excuse you need to buy a welder...... :flipoff2:
 
Counter sunk allens will come out easier than riv-nuts in the future. The rib-nuts will end up just spinning in the frame and you’ll really be cussing. Me personally I hate them.

Weld tabs to the frame. Simple. Effective.

I’ll take a picture of the crawler when I get home and how I did that one.
 
Counter sunk allens will come out easier than riv-nuts in the future. The rib-nuts will end up just spinning in the frame and you’ll really be cussing. Me personally I hate them.

Weld tabs to the frame. Simple. Effective.

I’ll take a picture of the crawler when I get home and how I did that one.

I’ll cut some tabs off the 3/16 plate I have and weld them on. This will be the easiest way.

I might have some bigger steel laying around for the tabs.
 
you could drill the frame and install weld washers. They would already be tapped for the thread, and wouldnt spin later.
 
All suzuki guys are hoarders. The parts are free or cheap when you don't need them. But can't find one when you need it, and those online suzuki places are pretty expensive.

Exactly, I hoard the shit and dont even know why... and then dont want to sell it for any amount. "Im going to do xxx with it someday"... wtf am I ever going to do with 10 samurai bodys, 5 rollers, 4 sets of axles, and a pallet of tcases?
 
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