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1982 Pro Street ElCamino Conquista refresh

SLOWPOKE693 said:
If your only goal is to street drive it I wouldn't go toobing out the front. Throw in an LS with the OD auto trans of your choice, a vintage air system and enjoy cruising. Racecar parts suck at doing street car things and shit gets old fast.
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Maybe tell me If I am unrealistic....

I'd like to drive it to down town Fort Worth for example. 55 miles round trip
Don't need to go above 60 mph for this cruise.

If I keep factory suspension but tubular arms and a power steering rack I don't see this a problem.
Right now my starting line ratio (crawl) is over 12, recommended is 9-11 and a turbo motor is gonna want closer to 9 I imagine.
So I swap to a 3.50 rear gear and keep the same trans and a tighter converter that puts me in good 60 mph cruise territory .

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How tight of a converter are you thinking? From the looks of it, even a off the shelf 2800 10" will be loosey goosey on the highway at 60.

Stop fapping to the grudge race tube front ends and tube control arms.The rack and pinion just saves weight and looks tasty.

Build a tubular rad support and add fresh poly bushings to the control arms and spend money elsewhere. Like a holley sniper kit so it fairs better on the current gas.
 
ANGRYBLACK said:
How tight of a converter are you thinking? From the looks of it, even a off the shelf 2800 10" will be loosey goosey on the highway at 60.

Stop fapping to the grudge race tube front ends and tube control arms.The rack and pinion just saves weight and looks tasty.

Build a tubular rad support and add fresh poly bushings to the control arms and spend money elsewhere. Like a holley sniper kit so it fairs better on the current gas.
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If I can get a 4L80 reasonably I'd like to go that route, lockup converter more clutch capacity etc. and lockup converter won't matter as much on stall speed.


The tube fronts are just a way to flex my skills...
I suppose I really need to rework the a-pillars of the roll cage and the halo, I'd like it much much farther away from the driver.
Again I have the equipment to do all that and (I hope) the skill:laughing:
 
I can build tube snouts and chassis for days but you don't see me rolling around in a tubed out F250 or Jeep Wrangler for good reason. :laughing:

What better way to flex your skills than building a race car in your garage and then taking it out and kicking ass with it? :smokin:

I'm also a bad influence and like to see people cut things up and turn them into race cars.
 
Idk how I missed this but hell yes glad to see some go fast builds on the board . I too am putting together a go-fast project albeit not as fast as yours, I will be following along!
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
I can build tube snouts and chassis for days but you don't see me rolling around in a tubed out F250 or Jeep Wrangler for good reason. :laughing:

What better way to flex your skills than building a race car in your garage and then taking it out and kicking ass with it? :smokin:

I'm also a bad influence and like to see people cut things up and turn them into race cars.
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So what was the recommendation LOL

I have ZERO race car budget. I do have rowdy street cruizer budget...

Right now I need to drive it more.

I need to build a frame for the hood so it can tilt open again.
Having a lift off hood sucks now.
 
CarterKraft said:
Maybe tell me If I am unrealistic....

I'd like to drive it to down town Fort Worth for example. 55 miles round trip
Don't need to go above 60 mph for this cruise.

If I keep factory suspension but tubular arms and a power steering rack I don't see this a problem.
Right now my starting line ratio (crawl) is over 12, recommended is 9-11 and a turbo motor is gonna want closer to 9 I imagine.
So I swap to a 3.50 rear gear and keep the same trans and a tighter converter that puts me in good 60 mph cruise territory .

1704410725713.png
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If your goal is to be able to cruise it 30 miles to the next town, all you need to do is upgrade your radiator that needs work already with a big aluminum dual core (and dual fans) upgrade to tube control arms and better steering because you want to. If you swap converters and gears it will feel like a dog driving it around town, and isn't that mostly what you want to do with it?
 
I also missed this badass car the first time around.

How's the engine running now with the pistons you threw in? Aside from the carb issues it sounds pretty solid.
 
Old Ugly 54 Chevy said:
If your goal is to be able to cruise it 30 miles to the next town, all you need to do is upgrade your radiator that needs work already with a big aluminum dual core (and dual fans) upgrade to tube control arms and better steering because you want to. If you swap converters and gears it will feel like a dog driving it around town, and isn't that mostly what you want to do with it?
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Fair points and puts that in perspective, good cooling system is required anyway.

Right now with the gearing it's pretty violent on the hit, I don't think it would be good at all with a power adder.
It's a 9" so a ratio change is pretty easy, 3.50 seems like the right gear for the lowest but still in the ideal starting line ratio range.

I never liked how power glides ran, buurrrrrr, burrrrr , I prefer the waaagghhhhh, waaagghhhhh waagghhh :lmao:
 
Yotota said:
I also missed this badass car the first time around.

How's the engine running now with the pistons you threw in? Aside from the carb issues it sounds pretty solid.
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So far so good 😬
It's need some carb tuning for sure but it does car stuff, starts fine revs out etc.

Butt dyno says still feels good, tires are so hard it doesn't hook up even from a roll.
It does lope awesomely at idle and it's pretty ground pounding for a small block.
 
Googling 6-71's and dart blocks today... Holy o fuck they are over $5k now for race blocks.

Also googling trans options seems like a 4l80 is the jam for new(er) era shit and a 200-r4 would be good for old school with some some heavy upgrades.

Either way gonna need a 3.xx rear gear.


I was looking at radiators and a 2019 2500 Silverado has a monster that should fit with a tubular core support but it's pretty thin.
Core (IN)34 x 23-1/4 x 7/8

The Duramax has a proper big ass radiator, over 2" thick.
1000010771.jpg



The 2010 1500 6.2 looks good too and has a decent looking fan setup ready to go I want the easy button. I had my eyes set on those badass brushless fans from the BMW/CTS/merc etc..but you know this setup will work.
1000010772.jpg

1000010773.jpg
 
If you have the room '05+ Chevy V8 34" rad/fan package is hard to beat. My dd is an '06 and I run the same setup in my 6.0 square body, zero complaints.
 
Twankie said:
If you have the room '05+ Chevy V8 34" rad/fan package is hard to beat. My dd is an '06 and I run the same setup in my 6.0 square body, zero complaints.
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That's the last one I listed I think, 34 x 17 1/4" x 1 1/4"
 
CarterKraft said:
That's the last one I listed I think, 34 x 17 1/4" x 1 1/4"
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Yea I'm just saying don't limit yourself to the 2010+ parts. They are all very similar in construction.

Rad/fan assembly mounts with only 4 upper bolts to the core support. Lower fan mounts clip into radiator and bottom of rad rests in two grommeted holes in core support
 
Trying to nail down new radiator stuff.
Looking hard at the '05 silverado radiator due to size.

Stock elcamino 26.25”x17” core = 442 sq in
2005 silverado 2500 34”x19.375” core = 658.75 sq in

39% increase in surface area

So the question is these stock radiators appear to be 1 row cores.
The aftermarket aluminum are 2+ core.

I got some new knowledge from the DeltaPAG guy about larger but thinner cores and increased airflow efficiency.

Obviously the OEM's new that and this combo does cool fine in the OEM application.

I'm leaning towards getting a 1 row radiator unless there is any reason to get the 2 row.
 
Dont forget about the roundy round dual pass al radiators as well... 2.25" core, two 1" rows and a little smaller than the truck rad above so it should fit better... I ran one of the smaller (narrower) ones in my SBC toyota mud race truck with a taurus fan because I was a broke bitch that wanted to race and had very little concern about overheating.

Not exactly a bolt in deal but cheap enough to try it out and I mean, its RaCe CaR PaRtS so you know itll add horsepressures... :homer::flipoff2:

 
jhama78 said:
Dont forget about the roundy round dual pass al radiators as well... 2.25" core, two 1" rows and a little smaller than the truck rad above so it should fit better... I ran one of the smaller (narrower) ones in my SBC toyota mud race truck with a taurus fan because I was a broke bitch that wanted to race and had very little concern about overheating.

Not exactly a bolt in deal but cheap enough to try it out and I mean, its RaCe CaR PaRtS so you know itll add horsepressures... :homer::flipoff2:

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Dual pass is a whole nutha can of worms aint it

In my research it was suggested for dual pass the pump needs to be mucho better to be able to provide the increased pressure needed to adequately cool through the second trip. Since I'll be running electric pumps I'm not sure more flow is what I need to strive for.


Tech Tip #5: Radiators & External Plumbing - Stewart Components

Radiators Thicker radiators do have slightly more airflow resistance than thinner radiators but the difference is minimal. A 4″ radiator has only approximately 10% more airflow resistance than a 2″ radiator. In past years, hot rodders and racers would sometimes install a thicker radiator and...
www.stewartcomponents.com www.stewartcomponents.com

Double pass radiators require 16x more pressure to flow the same volume of coolant through them, as compared to a single pass radiator. Triple pass radiators require 64x more pressure to maintain the same volume. Automotive water pumps are a centrifugal design, not positive displacement, so with a double pass radiator, the pressure is doubled and flow is reduced by approximately 33%. Modern radiator designs, using wide/thin cross sections tubes, seldom benefit from multiple pass configurations. The decrease in flow caused by multiple passes offsets any benefits of a high-flow water pump.
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From DeWitts on 2 row aluminum vs 4 row copper

What is a four core radiator?

Truth be told, there is no such thing. The term “four core” has been misused for decades and accepted for generations. One reason is that very few people know how a radiator works and even less people know how they are made. The term “core” is used to describe an assembly of parts. This assembly...
www.dewitts.com www.dewitts.com


So, the correct term for the aluminum radiator shown above is a “two row” and this design will perform better than a four row copper unit.
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I'd loose the electric water pump if you want it to be a driver. A mechanical pump with a dual row aluminum radiator like jhama78 posted will keep the engine cool no matter how hot it is outside, with a proper fan/shroud. I ran a radiator identical in size to what he posted with a mechanical pump on a 700hp small block and that car never got over 190° no matter how hard I beat on it in the summer.
 
For the record, Speedway rads are junt china amazon ebay junk. And dont run a double pass unless you must due to inlet and outlets. I have one in the wagon .

I would spend money on a good mechanical reman water pump, git rid of the factory rad support and squeeze the largest rad that fits between the frame horns. The late chevy trucks rad begs for this. Add factory PWM fans to it and it will be good.

Nobody on this board needs to question your skills! You can build the rad support and tab everything to it drunk with one eye closed, and the other holding your own beer! :beer:
 
SLOWPOKE693 said:
I'd loose the electric water pump if you want it to be a driver. A mechanical pump with a dual row aluminum radiator like jhama78 posted will keep the engine cool no matter how hot it is outside, with a proper fan/shroud. I ran a radiator identical in size to what he posted with a mechanical pump on a 700hp small block and that car never got over 190° no matter how hard I beat on it in the summer.
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I'm not against a mechanical pump, although figuring out belt drives sux...

ANGRYBLACK said:
For the record, Speedway rads are junt china amazon ebay junk. And dont run a double pass unless you must due to inlet and outlets. I have one in the wagon .

I would spend money on a good mechanical reman water pump, git rid of the factory rad support and squeeze the largest rad that fits between the frame horns. The late chevy trucks rad begs for this. Add factory PWM fans to it and it will be good.

Nobody on this board needs to question your skills! You can build the rad support and tab everything to it drunk with one eye closed, and the other holding your own beer! :beer:
Click to expand...

I'm thinking on it real hard. I finally figured out what rack and pinion too use (to be able to easily shorten it) so I'll start collecting parts and do a one time tear down. Need to buy a 1" die for the tubing bender and then settle on a radiator core thickness.

I looked at S10 manual steering boxes but they are more $ than the rack and pinion and I'd rather have tube k member and front snouts, rad support.:laughing:
 
I think i posted this before. But The G oby Lower front Control arm is the same as the 3rd gen F body. Witch has a strut front knuckle. @" drop spindles are cheap. I mean its only tube. And in the eye of all that is PRO STREET the upper mount is a 11th and 12th point tube away.

I keep looking at that leaking 2002 silverado rack with the inner tie rods i could shorten for inspiration. Stoopid class racing rules prevents me though.
 
CarterKraft said:
I'm not against a mechanical pump, although figuring out belt drives sux...
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Use the GM WP of your choice, a circle track head mounted late model P/S pump that has the reservoir built in and one of those Summit turn buckle style billet alternator brackets to mount your accessories and then either spend short money on basic aluminum pulleys or decent money for the bling circle track billet stuff. :smokin:



I have a 1-1/4" die for my bender you are welcome to use.
 
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SLOWPOKE693 said:
Use the GM WP of your choice, a circle track head mounted late model P/S pump that has the reservoir built in and one of those Summit turn buckle style billet alternator brackets to mount your accessories and then either spend short money on basic aluminum pulleys or decent money for the bling circle track billet stuff. :smokin:



I have a 1-1/4" die for my bender you are welcome to use.
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Off to look at circle track parts :flipoff2:
 
CarterKraft said:
Ordered BMW 850w fan off ebay.

Thinking about keeping OEM ish size radiator 26"x18", 2x 1" row core

allstarperformance.com

Radiator Chevy 19x31 ALL30016

Radiator Chevy 19x31 ALL30016 on sale now plus all the racing parts you need at Allstar Performance
allstarperformance.com allstarperformance.com

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If I go with the 34" core truck radiator I think I might need another 19" fan to make it right, then I'll need a bigger alternator for sure but it should be REALLY hard to overheat...
 
CarterKraft said:
If I go with the 34" core truck radiator I think I might need another 19" fan to make it right, then I'll need a bigger alternator for sure but it should be REALLY hard to overheat...
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If you got with a truck rad, get the e-fan setup from the matching truck. Keep it simple
 
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