Projectjunkie
Whatever
Very cool!
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1982 Pro Street ElCamino Conquista refresh
- Thread starter CarterKraft
- Start date
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
Well it's a 100% miracle no one died in this death trap.
Proportioning valve on the front brakes...
1/4" tube adapter with a 3/16 tube flare mashed against it...
Made an aluminum bracket for the line lock to get it back on the firewall. Had to get more 1/8 npt - 3/16" tube adapter fittings and tube nuts, but even that is a pain in the ass these bullshit parts stores keep 1 of half the shit and they can order the other half
Got the front lines all back together. Got paint on the new front calipers, letting them cure before putting them on.
Gonna hit the rear tomorrow.
Anyone that shy's away from flaring tube that hasn't tried ni-cop really needs to try it. It's such a fucking pleasure to work with. It is really soft though and that might be a issue on certain rigs but damn it's so fast and easy to use.
Not sure how I feel about the color but we'll see.
Before
After
Proportioning valve on the front brakes...
1/4" tube adapter with a 3/16 tube flare mashed against it...
Made an aluminum bracket for the line lock to get it back on the firewall. Had to get more 1/8 npt - 3/16" tube adapter fittings and tube nuts, but even that is a pain in the ass these bullshit parts stores keep 1 of half the shit and they can order the other half
Got the front lines all back together. Got paint on the new front calipers, letting them cure before putting them on.
Gonna hit the rear tomorrow.
Anyone that shy's away from flaring tube that hasn't tried ni-cop really needs to try it. It's such a fucking pleasure to work with. It is really soft though and that might be a issue on certain rigs but damn it's so fast and easy to use.
Not sure how I feel about the color but we'll see.
Before
After
Attachments
If you rub the line with Scotch Brite it gets shiny like polished aluminum. You can also polish it if your that OCD about it.
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
I might like the regular polish over the copper, but who am I kidding I'm going for no leaks and good braking
Thanks for the tip, ill do some testing.
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
It's in the wild.
Got the alternator back on with the ICT electric water pump mount. Going to convert the alternator back to 3 wire from the external 1 wire conversion. I've never liked how that works. Had to swap out a few belts and got to return them in the car.
Hit it with some soap and water.
Got the alternator back on with the ICT electric water pump mount. Going to convert the alternator back to 3 wire from the external 1 wire conversion. I've never liked how that works. Had to swap out a few belts and got to return them in the car.
Hit it with some soap and water.
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
Obviously I need new tires at 26 years old LOL.
The front needs to drop some (a lot?)
I can't remember if the springs are from my other car or not? The other car had new springs with a clipped coil, 1/2 coil, I can't remember.
2" Drop spindles is the easy button. And a little taller tire might get it done.
The front needs to drop some (a lot?)
I can't remember if the springs are from my other car or not? The other car had new springs with a clipped coil, 1/2 coil, I can't remember.
2" Drop spindles is the easy button. And a little taller tire might get it done.
This thing is perfect.
Makes me think of the meme "where you rev your Honda at the old guy at the red light, and he sticks a go pro mount on the roof and opens the cut outs so you can hear the Chop Master Stage 3 cam hittin' harder than your drunk stepdad"
Makes me think of the meme "where you rev your Honda at the old guy at the red light, and he sticks a go pro mount on the roof and opens the cut outs so you can hear the Chop Master Stage 3 cam hittin' harder than your drunk stepdad"
Projectjunkie
Whatever
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
So what's the budget sound/heat insulation setup?
Probably going to order some more of the noico MLV then cover it in some sort of jute type mat then carpet?
There is nothing in the car except for sheet aluminum and steel body panels.
The drone is brutal, I know it's good for tough guys and shit but it's too much for a street car of any type IMO.
I'm fine with still loud but I need to knock it down some, any reason to get better shit?
Probably going to order some more of the noico MLV then cover it in some sort of jute type mat then carpet?
There is nothing in the car except for sheet aluminum and steel body panels.
The drone is brutal, I know it's good for tough guys and shit but it's too much for a street car of any type IMO.
I'm fine with still loud but I need to knock it down some, any reason to get better shit?
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
This thing on LoLSo what's the budget sound/heat insulation setup?
Probably going to order some more of the noico MLV then cover it in some sort of jute type mat then carpet?
There is nothing in the car except for sheet aluminum and steel body panels.
The drone is brutal, I know it's good for tough guys and shit but it's too much for a street car of any type IMO.
I'm fine with still loud but I need to knock it down some, any reason to get better shit?
ProjectTwin not looking for a BatDog Garage level improvement, just some minimum sound dampening to kill the drone.
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
ProjectTwin
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 22, 2020
- Member Number
- 1193
- Messages
- 468
Pull the carpet and put down your deadener. Then use something like Second Skin’s Heatwave Pro. Don’t use foam-based stuff on the floor. Jute with thermal layers is the way to go.
Then lay down 1lb/sqft mass loaded vinyl.
That will kill A LOT of road noise.
Do the floor pan once and do it right.
The other stuff you can attack later.
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
Talk to me like I'm 4 LoL.
The "deadener" is what type of material?
Layer one (closest to metal pan)
Layer two (on top of layer one)
Layer three (last layer, under carpet)
Sorry for the extra steps but I've a hard time with the trade names vs marketing names.
Opiebennett
XJ_Ranger
Following for sound killing tech.
And future pro-street door slammer tech when you remove all the sound deadening and invest in ear plugs.
And future pro-street door slammer tech when you remove all the sound deadening and invest in ear plugs.
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
Right now any drive over 3 blocks needs ear plugs
The drone is a brown note if I can describe it like that, buzz's the inner ear.
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
I'm thinking it's these second skin products
1. Damplifier / pro
2. Heatwave jute
3. Luxury liner
ProjectTwin
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 22, 2020
- Member Number
- 1193
- Messages
- 468
Layer one is CLD. Constrained Layer Damper. That layer reduces panel resonance and is where most people stop. I use Second Skin’s Damplifier Pro.
Layer two is a layer that will absorb airborne noise, serves and a thermal insulation layer, and will decouple layer three from the hard floor pan and CLD. I use Second Skin’s Heat Wave Pro. It has thermal layers top and bottom.
Layer three is Mass Loaded Vinyl. This blocks sound, but has to be decoupled from hard surfaces to be effective. I use Second Skin’s Luxury Liner.
The three of those will make a huge difference on your floor plan.
For the doors, use Damplifier Pro and Mega Zorbe or Mega Zorbe Pro. MZ/MZ Pro will absorb airborne noise through the doors and thermally insulates the doors as well. It’s also hydrophobic.
Roof skin should get Damplifier Pro and Mega Zorbe.
Rear “cab” wall below the window should get Damplifier Pro, Heat Wave Pro, and Luxury Liner. Treat the rear “cab” wall at the same time and in the same manner as the floor.
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
Thank you for explaining that in more detail.
I think I understand the concepts, I had the MLV and CLD backwards so that will get me going on the right track.
ProjectTwin
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 22, 2020
- Member Number
- 1193
- Messages
- 468
If you buy Second skin stuff I can give you a link that will give you 10% off. I also make a little.
Shipping is calculated into pricing so the more sqft you order, the cheaper per sqft it is.
Measure your areas and add 10%
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
Shoot me a link if you can.
ProjectTwin
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 22, 2020
- Member Number
- 1193
- Messages
- 468
Will do when I get back to the computer.
ProjectTwin
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 22, 2020
- Member Number
- 1193
- Messages
- 468
Alright, here's the link. It's an affiliate link so you have to click it to get the 10% and I get a little as well.
Once you click it, it'll take you to the Second Skin website. If you look at the url at the top of the screen it'll show source=ShareASale in the url.
The discount won't appear in your cart, but should be seen at checkout.
Anyone can use this link - not just you.
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
Got the new NON gold air cleaner on it, thinking I need to either find a anodizer or try it myself?
Made some new flat seat mounts to try and get my head lower and away from the A pillar. The A pillars and windshield bar are just completely in the wrong place...
Took it for some round the block loops and found a spot at the cafe where I can watch it from the window I realized no ignition switch is a problem
.
Made some new flat seat mounts to try and get my head lower and away from the A pillar. The A pillars and windshield bar are just completely in the wrong place...
Took it for some round the block loops and found a spot at the cafe where I can watch it from the window I realized no ignition switch is a problem
.
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
Stopped by a buddies that's decently far away for a 3000+ stall converter...
64Trvlr
KK7NAZ
Right now any drive over 3 blocks needs ear plugs
The drone is a brown note if I can describe it like that, buzz's the inner ear.
If you put a balance tube between the exhaust pipes that will tone it down some and won't hurt power. You might even gain 5-10 HP with it.
I couldn't tell if you have a driveshaft loop or not from the pics under the car. If not you might want to ad one.
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
I thought about doing that, it might be worth trying, thanks for the reminder.
Yeah there are front and rear loops.
64Trvlr
KK7NAZ
Balance tube should help with the drone.
I'm glad you have them, loops are really good idea. Buddy of mine destroyed his Camaro when he broke his front u-joint at about 100 or so.
CarterKraft
Red Skull Member
I'll have to see where it can go, I suppose it doesn't have to be 3.5" like the rest of the exhaust?
I remember reading article about spray painting stripes on the inside of the header pipes and where it stopped burning off was the correct location.
Not sure if that was ever the correct location or not.
I remember reading article about spray painting stripes on the inside of the header pipes and where it stopped burning off was the correct location.
Not sure if that was ever the correct location or not.
TrikeKid
Junk Hoarder
I usually make my crossover the same size as the rest of the exhaust but an H pipe can be a little smaller without hurting anything.
I've heard of the paint method or drawing lines on the pipes but generally the location is dictated by where it physically fits in the car
It helped a ton with drone and in cab noise in my F250 that has glass packs dumped under the bed.
I've heard of the paint method or drawing lines on the pipes but generally the location is dictated by where it physically fits in the car
It helped a ton with drone and in cab noise in my F250 that has glass packs dumped under the bed.