1980 F350 Farm Truck Re-Build

[Levigarrett76]

Getting it done!

 

[arse_sidewards]

Anybody have any reason why I can't just put a layer of clear 100% silicone in there instead to act as an insulator/humidity keeper-outer?

Because you can buy a spray paint can of shit that's actually meant to coat circuit boards for under $25

Oh, and Dorman makes a $5 kit that has an assortment of bushings including the t-case one you need.

 

[Provience]

Getting it done!

thanks, putting together my shopping list now. LMC/RockAuto/Orielly tabs open

Because you can buy a spray paint can of shit that's actually meant to coat circuit boards for under $25

Oh, and Dorman makes a $5 kit that has an assortment of bushings including the t-case one you need.

thanks! didn't know what the stuff was called, or that it existed.

Found what should be the correct bushing on oreilly website. going to give it a whirl.


edit: things to be here about next monday, $110 worth of stuff :sad:

42-5/16" V belt
51-5/8" V belt - we'll see how close these are
spark plugs
Fuel pump
3/4"-5/8" press in heater hose fitting to block
Oil cap with hole in it for PCV
Wiper blades
Air filter
Door and Tailgate striker bushings
Shifter linkage nylon bushings
Vented push in filter cap

Going to have to buy eventually, all the oils still.

 

[Provience]

Oreilly ship to home had most of everything I order show up in a couple days rather than the week estimate. 1 box which should have a few more spark plugs is all I'm waiting on, I think. Pretty neat.

the windshield has only got 1 major crack in it, wanted to spruce it up a bit and went with the rainguard 18". even if they dry out, it will at least prevent the direct metal on glass for a bit

the oil cap with vent came with 2 different sized gaskets, neither would accommodate the PVC what came with the truck, massaged the larger gasket with the step drill until it was snug enough to accept

standard 1 tab/2 wings twist on cap fits nicely

a 1" push in breather won't fit in a 1" hole and doesn't come with a new bit of rubber. guess it's got a 1" shank, need something smaller

instead of measuring, I took a guess at which length alternator belt I needed. Guessed wrong, need the shorter one closer to 40" length

This seems to work, it's got a line on the inside that fits into the groove on the stud, I had it in my head that groove should've been for a hair clip/R clip, but this seems to be on there pretty dang well after smashing with pliers.

Doorman 38424 door striker bushings to the rescue again. Used saws and snips instead of a razor blade this time

even with having the doors aligned on to where they close very nicely, these bushings really put it over the top

The 3/4-5/8 push in heater hose fitting took the longest to find. Murray controls 84715. If you don't hit your finger, are you even using a hammer? surprised it managed to let out the goo with only a couple gentle taps.

The valve cover wants a ASF-52 spark plug with gap of .042-.046, bought ASF-42P because that is what the computer said. Seem to fit, always gap your plugs as one was about 0.010 out of the box.

 

[Provience]

Pretty neat what happens when you buy a fuel pump for the correct year, fittings all pointing the correct direction and such.

washer fluid pump had failed at some point in the past, took out the whole bottle.

Mr. Gasket 2057 at the store claims it is 3/4" press fit for a 1" hole and it comes with a gasket. Gasket is for a 1-1/4" hole took the other small (5/8"?) plug the other oil cap came with and sanded away at the middle of it with the step drill. Took a rather long time, but eventually it removed enough to fit

cost more than $5, but at least it looks nice now.

Took an overall picture. Dirty hippy kid went and got himself in the photo as well.

 

[Provience]

Important to remember, the transmission crossmember still isn't tightened down and no fluids anywhere, need to once over pretty well all the bolts before I forget about them for too much longer.

Parts I've got on hand still:
Steering joints and such
Driveshaft Universal joints
Brake hoses/caliper seals/master cylinder seals.

So let's get started on the brakes

Well, it doesn't look great but it doesn't look bad out here. Going up to the junction block, probably going to redo all those lines

kind of neat that ford decided to use soft lines from the master cylinder, i'm going to replace those with hardline instead. Most of the hard lines are in pretty reasonable shape, but I want to replace the fittings and its usually easier to just make all new instead of trimming back, replacing joint and reflaring with the space i've got currently.

These calipers being help in place with this one magical block has got to be up near the top of terrible caliper designs

pads didn't look too hot once I took them off, the inside of the rotor is SIGNIFICANTLY worse than the outside.

O'reilly in town wants almost $90 for a set of pads I've got mostly flat concrete though...

Pretty sweet amounts of gunk inside the calipers and the old seals were more like putty than rubber

and sadly the caliper pistons are deformed in a couple different directions. With the new square seals in the bores and some light lube, they didn't want to move consistently or reasonably....

since I'd resolved to order new pistons, went ahead and ordered new pads and new rotors as well. Rockauto was half price for the cheapest things I could get compared to everybody else.

Dang...however, anybody else who asked I'd tell them to not cheap out on brakes and just replace the parts. Still reeling from the price though, damned near $200 for just a front brake job on this thing

At this point, I don't think I'm going to open up the rear brakes and this will probably end me up reasonably at $3,500

on the plus side, found a lady on facebook marketplace who is willing to sell me a used drop in bed liner and camper shell. I can charge that in my head to the other truck and with some hole saw action it will save me from "needing" to replace the rotted out bed.

 

[Provience]

3rd times a charm for the dang alternator belt. 41-3/4" length is what was needed.

Went to hard lines for the master cylinder down, line going across to the passenger side is in surprisingly good shape, as is line going to the rear

The new steering joints look good compared to thr old ones, just the outers were sloppy.

I'm certain I had bought all the links, couldn't find the short side inner, even the wife couldn't find it. Junction on the new longtime inner is a out 3" further out than the old one, lots of thread exposed on the short side.

going to wait until the brake rotors show up before setting the toe

Short time to work on the truck over a long weekend.

Midship fuel tank is dripping stuff, looks cool, probably needs to be addressed.

Getting rather close to buying fluids and going for a test run.

 

[Provience]

Holes in the bed floor that need to be mitigated somewhat in the cheapest possible way

cheapest possible way turns out to be a drop in bed liner. Need to get the saw out and make clearance for all the stuff in the bed. Seems way better than buying some steel and making patches

If the topper doesn't work out on the daily then it will go to this thing where it actually fits. Until then, makes a good storage spot

And the free PPG paint swatches came in today copper pot might be too orange and not enough brown as I was thinking, but I like the name so maybe that'll just be it. Blue for the interior everything

 

[Provience]

Stupid brakes took me probably 4 hours to do this one dang side

ALL THESE HEX KEYS and not a 9/64" worth a damn among them. Had to run to the store to pick up a tool

Figured i'd get the ones that can use a ratchet as they are easy to tap into place

And look at that, one (1) of those things still worked. The other 5 decided to turn into circles on the inside and the outside. Super cool. No idea how you northerners deal with this all the time

Hours of drilling and trying to stay small and just get the head cut off, then trying to stay aligned as the body cut significantly easier than the bolt. Got a fun bruise on my shoulder from leaning on the drill while trying to brace myself and keep the hub from spinning the wrong way. Ended up getting annoyed enough that I grabbed a larger drill and went to town, cut some angles and everything.

But apart it eventually came, snap ring on the axle shaft and large snap ring on the hub body

Pile of parts. Everything looked in good shape, no cracks or missing teeth

Instead of getting the proper big crazy socket, chisel worked really good. After opening up all the lock tabs, it fits just right to jam between the teeth of the hub body and the slots of the lock nut, turning the hub body then easily unscrews the nut.

Everything apart and it was time to head to the press in the shed

Oh, never mind. Just bring everything back to the driveway and grab some hammers. El cheapo press jack that hasn't been used in a couple years don't want to move. Dang, this is going to make u-joints more entertaining

photo evidence that the inside of the rotor is lot's more geologically diverse than the obverse

 

[Provience]

But hey, it all goes back together pretty nice! Steel wool did a good job cleaning things up, brake fluid and a C clamp got my new pistons into the calipers. Took out the banjo bolt and tried to pour fluid into the caliper until it was full. That was a dumb idea without a funnel

other side should go much better, i'll try to take less of my time and start aggressive with the drill iffin' the screws don't want to undo themselves.

 

[TxNTrK]

Thanks for this. Not sure why, but enjoyed the normal maintenance bullshit commentary !

 

[Thatg9659]

Next time hex cap screws go round inside try hammering a bigger torx bit in there.

 

[Provience]

Thanks for this. Not sure why, but enjoyed the normal maintenance bullshit commentary !

Thank you! I need to write stuff down so that I know what i'm doing and can reference it later on, putting notes in here is super helpful for keeping me somewhat on track. I've learned a bunch too with the normal conversation that goes on, such as what "conformal coating" is. Appreciate any and all feedback

Next time hex cap screws go round inside try hammering a bigger torx bit in there.

Ya know, I'd told the gal at the auto parts store that if I couldn't find a 9/64" hex in a set that I was going to pound in a torx bit. Once I got back to the house and rounded most of them off, I didn't even think about it. Really planned on the drill being quick and easy. The small whatever size I used to pilot with worked pretty quick and easy, about every other drill bit I own needs to be sharpened I guess.

I said yesterday that I'd just go right to the bigger sized drill out of the gate on the other side, now you've got me convinced to try out the torx bit before the drill.

just need it to not be so damned cold out there. It's getting down into the low 60's this week

 

[JR4X]

Next time hex cap screws go round inside try hammering a bigger torx bit in there.

My torx bits have been more useful as easy outs than my easy outs ever have been. That’s exactly what I would have done, pounded torx into them. It does double duty. Hammering the bit in knocks the rust connection loose and the torx gets a solid bite of the bolt head.

 

[Provience]

My torx bits have been more useful as easy outs than my easy outs ever have been. That’s exactly what I would have done, pounded torx into them. It does double duty. Hammering the bit in knocks the rust connection loose and the torx gets a solid bite of the bolt head.

would it be worth-while to just replace these bolts/screws with torx head ones instead of the hex head? There doesn't seem to be much stress on the cover but I feel it should get more than 1 to hold them in place

 

[arse_sidewards]

My torx bits have been more useful as easy outs than my easy outs ever have been. That’s exactly what I would have done, pounded torx into them. It does double duty. Hammering the bit in knocks the rust connection loose and the torx gets a solid bite of the bolt head.

Did that yesterday on an outboard flywheel alternator.

would it be worth-while to just replace these bolts/screws with torx head ones instead of the hex head?

Yes.

Better still would be replace the whole setup with drive slugs. Not like you'll notice the 1mpg hit.

 

[JR4X]

would it be worth-while to just replace these bolts/screws with torx head ones instead of the hex head? There doesn't seem to be much stress on the cover but I feel it should get more than 1 to hold them in place

What’s the likelihood you’ll ever have them off again? In the town I live in. The Ace Hardware would have the correct Allen head bolts but wouldn’t have torx. I’d just go back with Allen on a resto like what you’re doing.

 

[Provience]

What’s the likelihood you’ll ever have them off again? In the town I live in. The Ace Hardware would have the correct Allen head bolts but wouldn’t have torx. I’d just go back with Allen on a resto like what you’re doing.

hopefully never.

I'll internet shop and see if I can swing by ace after work during the week.

edit: hell, if i can get all 6 to come out from the other side, i might just mix and match and run 4 in one and 3 in the other

 

[reptillikus]

Meh, odds are theyll never seize in there again. Thats from being put in dry, and then neglected for years.

 

[Levigarrett76]

It works

 

[Provience]

It works!

Oh wait, no it doesn't

Tried one more time, snapped the rest of the way. Went to the drill and was able to get then down to enough I could get them to go with a punch and pliers

Neither welding hood at the house had good batteries, close eyes and tap trigger. Was able to build up enough on 1 to get it out with pliers.

This poor bastard took a cutoff wheel on the dremel and a bunch of chisel and hammer action to get cleared enough to take out with a screwdriver

Overall, I rate the torx bit a 1/6, which is just as good as the hex driver did

 

[JR4X]

It works!

Oh wait, no it doesn't

Tried one more time, snapped the rest of the way. Went to the drill and was able to get then down to enough I could get them to go with a punch and pliers

Neither welding hood at the house had good batteries, close eyes and tap trigger. Was able to build up enough on 1 to get it out with pliers.

This poor bastard took a cutoff wheel on the dremel and a bunch of chisel and hammer action to get cleared enough to take out with a screwdriver

Overall, I rate the torx bit a 1/6, which is just as good as the hex driver did

That looks more like piss poor tools. I’ve had the same torx set for 23 years and I’ve replaced one two from rounding them off. Mine aren’t hollow like that.

 

[Provience]

That looks more like piss poor tools. I’ve had the same torx set for 23 years and I’ve replaced one two from rounding them off. Mine aren’t hollow like that.

Yeah, absolutely cheap shit. I was less surprised it failed in use and more surprised the drill wouldn't touch it and i couldn't knock it out with a pic.

Regardless, it's apart now and yall at least saved me 1 bolt for that side for now

This poor caliper has seen some better days.

 

[aczlan]

Overall, I rate the torx bit a 1/6, which is just as good as the hex driver did

Found your problem:

Gotta use good impact rated Torx bits, not chinsy security Torx bits.

Aaron Z

 

[Provience]

Back together. These damn leaves are amazing, just dumping every time the breeze blows.

In theory it now runs and stops.

Driveshafts
Fuel tanks/lines
Button up stuff

Give it a shot and see what I forgot

 

[TRINDU]

44HD right? PM your address (dont have your number) and I'll send you a set of new D44 MM lockouts. Or I'm in Killeen a couple times a week. You butchered those

 

[Provience]

44HD right? PM your address (dont have your number) and I'll send you a set of new D44 MM lockouts. Or I'm in Killeen a couple times a week. You butchered those

Hang on to what you've got, these will be just fine for what I'm doing

I appreciate the offer though. There is no real stress in these, the small screw underneath holds the gear from going too far out. When locked out they only have just some pressure, but most of it is held by the gears

 

[onemanarmy]

man this is one of my favorite builds
cant wait to see if it runs....and runs properly

 

[arse_sidewards]

man this is one of my favorite builds
cant wait to see if it windows the block or burns down from a stereo fire

Fixed.

 

[Levigarrett76]

Reminds me alot of this, im sure it will run just fine