1980 F350 Farm Truck Re-Build

[Provience]

notes:

Rockauto
Rad cap Gates 31527; T-stat Motorad 423195; water pump gates 43041; cam bearing set enginetech cc448; freeze plug set melling MPE109BR; timing chain/gear set enginetech TS494C; windshield wipers anco 14c18; full engine gasket set felpro 2601014

With shipping $195

Summit Racing
piston ring set Mahle 50564CP; Std Main brngs Sealed power 5078M; std rod brngs sealed power 83400CP

$126

haven't ordered anything just yet, wanted a price for my head while junk yarding

 

[Provience]

Can or should? Spring needs are going to mostly be dictated by RPM range and secondly by cam profile. A mild performance cam or an "RV" cam shouldn't really bump the rev range high enough to cause problems with stock valvetrain

the issue, apparently, is that the springs go solid ~0.460" and there just ain't many folks willing to make a cam that small

 

[arse_sidewards]

notes:

Rockauto
Rad cap Gates 31527; T-stat Motorad 423195; water pump gates 43041; cam bearing set enginetech cc448; freeze plug set melling MPE109BR; timing chain/gear set enginetech TS494C; windshield wipers anco 14c18; full engine gasket set felpro 2601014

With shipping $195

Summit Racing
piston ring set Mahle 50564CP; Std Main brngs Sealed power 5078M; std rod brngs sealed power 83400CP

$126

haven't ordered anything just yet, wanted a price for my head while junk yarding

Check eBay. For old domestic stuff you can often find engine rebuilding parts very cheap there because it's a popular way to liquidate shit bought at auction.

the springs go solid ~0.460"

 

[Provience]

made it out to 195 pick n pull today, they had 3 trucks with bunches of stuff. ended up with more than I intended

This is what $500 worth of parts looks like probably going to go back for a hitch receiver, rear bumper and gas tanks as they had many of them.

starting point for the interior.

Old door panel, plus the window is broken. cheap enough at $70 to just replace the whole door. yes, the original plan was to just get a piece of glass and run this truck without the door panels...but there was actually a mostly decent set of doors at the yard

and picked up a dash pad and gauge bezel that aren't wrecked up, just being picky I guess

Put the driver door on so that at least it has a chance of keeping the cats out and other creatures and weather

This blue vinyl seat came out of a 1972 and used a 4 bolt mounting pattern on the flats, easier to swap the brackets than to drill holes.

single bolt front and rear and you can see it reaches around the front rather than being flat on the 1980

and that's the end of pictures that I took. Hopefully tomorrow will be to fire up the pressure washer and see if it will make pressure and blast a bunch of junk out of the cab/engine bay/frame/engine and possibly hang some of my fancy new interior parts.

Pretty much every part I got today came from a F150, and it looks like the year range interchange is huge, which is nice.

 

[Provience]

Turns out, that was $400 worth of junkyard stuff and not $500. Turned in $40 worth of "core charges" today and apparently paid for $60 worth of "warranty". I'm pretty sure I declined the warranty, but oh well, ultimately I did pay the amount with the warranty so now i know, they got me. Still cheaper than any other junk yard i've seen.

ranger badge pops off, need to drill new holes to replace the XLT logo

XLT dash surround has side vents, I don't have the hvac routing for those vents, but maybe someday will add in something cheap. Need to drill for the "fog lights" switch

ended up mixing the mirrors up, running the larger swing out tow mirror on the drivers side as the small fixed mirror was cracked, and the smaller fixed mirror on the passanger side as the tow mirror glass was popped out

RIpped out the vinyl and the backing and such. not sure i'll put anything back in, might just repaint it

and this is the only spot of rust that is actually going to get addressed, will cut out a bit and patch in some metal eventually. keep the critters out.

Front outer fenders remove pretty simply. only hard to find bolt is this one to get with the door open and a long extension

didn't bother to unhook any more of the electrical, just kind of rotate it around and it's plenty out of the way.

With the fender out of the way, super easy to loosen up all of the door hinge bolts on both the chassis and door side, then play and adjust until it hits the striker well and the body line is mostly aligned AND the gap is reasonable-ish all the way around. No reason to even attempt to fuck with it without removing the fender

easier with a helper but managed to do this one by myself, if nothing else the door at least closes with normal effort and seems to not have so much air gap around the top. still a little rotated, but certainly good enough

Pressure washer fired right up and even wanted to work mostly correctly, washed pounds of dirt and debris off of everything.

 

[Provience]

and last picture, with everything stripped out, washed off and new seat it actually is tolerable, or even nice, to be inside also sprayed a bunch of nut breaker into the key and got it un stuck as it was generally not wanting to exit the cylinder. picked up the keys that were in the junk yard truck I got the doors from, none of those keys work the doors. oh well

foam for the seat is in really good condition, need to pick up a gas station blanket or two to cover the vinyl base. the cheapo blanket themed cover I got for my other truck didn't last a year before going bad and got so bad that my wife took the whole cover off today...maybe she will get equally annooyed with this seat and put some covers on it so that I don't have to

Wife has named it "bruiser" as it is blue, black and red

 

[Provience]

and met a guy at the junkyard today who said he'd sell me a late 70's or early 80's EFI motorhome 460 for ~$150 if i helped him pull it. otherwise it is going to scrap with the rest of the motorhome.

not sure I want to actually go through with it, rather than just going with the 351m where I don't have to do anything with any accessory stuff and am pretty much aware with it's issues....

 

[arse_sidewards]

and met a guy at the junkyard today who said he'd sell me a late 70's or early 80's EFI motorhome 460 for ~$150 if i helped him pull it. otherwise it is going to scrap with the rest of the motorhome.

not sure I want to actually go through with it, rather than just going with the 351m where I don't have to do anything with any accessory stuff and am pretty much aware with it's issues....

Do it. Just selling the EFI 460 will finance your build.

 

[Provience]

another weekend, another bit of progress.

4 bolts off the front and 4 bolts off the rear and the transmission is free

then popped out a freeze plug on each side, all those chunks are from inside the water passageways

and that made it much easier to move all that into the garage in pieces.

Decided to explore some of the passanger side floor pan today. had to drill the heads off the screws holding the door sill in place

after poking at it, out came the cutoff wheel and the wire wheel

and a few holes in the by the seat belt mount I didn't expect to find.

Originally planned on using steel and welding it in place, don't have any not-already-body-parts sheet steel laying around anymore, did still have some smaller chunks of Aluminium from making a battery box the other day. Snips, ball hammer, pliers, beat it into place. Nice thing about the steel hammer is that it moves Al very quickly and wrinkles it up nice

The last time I used glue'n'skrew I said I'd never ever do it again, ever, never.....welp, it's quick cheap and easy, so I'm doing it again. Haven't glued it yet as I don't have the #10 1/2" pan head screws that I thought I did. Once I get the "proper" screws I'll pop these back off, quick spray paint, silicone or something, then screw it back down for good. MIGHT put some kind of flooring back in it, wife says to just roll in bed liner, we'll see what happens. Also picked up a thrift store blanket for a bottom seat cover Did welp up 1 small hole because it was all alone near the front/middle

anyways, chippin' away at progress. at least now it is basically critter tight


edit: fawkit, went ahead and bough a rivet gun because I haven't had one in years

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B09ZTTY4DF/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

[no class]

Keep in mind if you intend on going the 460 route you will need the aluminum bell housing used on externally balanced 460 (D9TE block, 1979 & later).
If you get a 78 or older internally balanced engine you can use the bell you have. The aluminum bell housings are next to impossible to get. There were no factory manual 460 trucks until the 80s.

 

[rattle_snake]

Keep in mind if you intend on going the 460 route you will need the aluminum bell housing used on externally balanced 460 (D9TE block, 1979 & later).
If you get a 78 or older internally balanced engine you can use the bell you have. The aluminum bell housings are next to impossible to get. There were no factory manual 460 trucks until the 80s.

What is the reason for this?

 

[TRINDU]

made it out to 195 pick n pull today, they had 3 trucks with bunches of stuff. ended up with more than I intended

Where was my invite

EVERY yard plays the warranty game, but they never announce it. Always have to repeatedly tell them no warranty.

Also, 'check in' on facebook, google, porn hub, saying you're there and you get 10% off too.

 

[CarterKraft]

Just found this thread, love it.
Its like the truck version of JNHEscher's immovable house build. (A lot of good work on a shitty foundation)

 

[Provience]

Keep in mind if you intend on going the 460 route you will need the aluminum bell housing used on externally balanced 460 (D9TE block, 1979 & later).
If you get a 78 or older internally balanced engine you can use the bell you have. The aluminum bell housings are next to impossible to get. There were no factory manual 460 trucks until the 80s.

Good to know. I'm getting more comfortable with sticking with the 351 as time goes on

 

[Provience]

Just found this thread, love it.
Its like the truck version of JNHEscher's immovable house build. (A lot of good work on a shitty foundation)

Don't worry, it'll be shitty work as well as (if) it goes back together

 

[[486]]

I've got to figure out a time to go junk yarding for a window or door, might just make some calls and see what they are getting for complete engines. 351m/400/460 should all fit

351/400 bell pattern is the same as 385 series, but 3/8" shallower
so you'll need to be creative with the flywheel if you do try sticking a 460 on the same transmission

ETA: whoops didn't read last page
still w/e
there's the difference
I figured it out after redrilling a 400 bell for a 7.3

 

[arse_sidewards]

so you'll need to be creative with the flywheel if you do try sticking a 460 on the same transmission

1/8 spacer between the bell and trans.

1/8 spacer between the bell and engine.

Cut 1/8 off the height of the pilot bushing.

The clutch will probably deal just fine with riding 1/8 away from where it usually does.

 

[72Pstroke]

If it is an NP 235 you can pull the input shaft out the front of the tranny and shorten it in a lathe.

 

[350TacoZilla]

Man everyone trying to talk you into a 460 but for a 4spd farm truck that's going to be left alone for longer periods I'd throw a 300 I6 in it. I'm not up on what all combos ford ran but guessing this was an odd low GVW F350? I had thought they all got the solid 60 front vs F250 that got the independent (D50 ?) then add in the D61.

 

[[486]]

Man everyone trying to talk you into a 460 but for a 4spd farm truck that's going to be left alone for longer periods I'd throw a 300 I6 in it. I'm not up on what all combos ford ran but guessing this was an odd low GVW F350? I had thought they all got the solid 60 front vs F250 that got the independent (D50 ?) then add in the D61.

d61 was only dodges
d50ttb (or 44hd) was in 350s until midyear 85 when they started the d60s back up again

or just bottlebrush hone the cylinders and run it with all the parts you took off, because parts you got are cheaper than parts you don't

 

[TRINDU]

80-85 we're all TTB gayness. Technically a 4x4 dually doesnt exist till super duty. Ford went full retard and never really recovered.

 

[350TacoZilla]

d61 was only dodges
d50ttb (or 44hd) was in 350s until midyear 85 when they started the d60s back up again

or just bottlebrush hone the cylinders and run it with all the parts you took off, because parts you got are cheaper than parts you don't

I didn't realize that they stopped the D60 fronts there for awhile, again not a ford guy so I just assumed F350 from late 70's up was solid front D60. On the dodge D61 I think they were only company to use them as a front but OP's post #19 says D61 rear.

 

[[486]]

On the dodge D61 I think they were only company to use them as a front but OP's post #19 says D61 rear.

oh yeah I've never paid much attention to the 60 rears, kinda only ever end up with 10.25s

being a 61 though it's prolly got some real nice steep gears for the non-overdrive trans

 

[Provience]

oh yeah I've never paid much attention to the 60 rears, kinda only ever end up with 10.25s

being a 61 though it's prolly got some real nice steep gears for the non-overdrive trans

3.55

Same as my other one and still common today.

There is no good reason for it to be a dana 61, other than to make this a truck that I can afford these days fine by me.

Also it's an 8,700 lb gvwr.

The 78 f250 2wd next to it is 7,900 lb gvwr.

So the extra 100 ford's are good for something, even with a smaller motor.

 

[TRINDU]

being a 61 though it's prolly got some real nice steep gears for the non-overdrive trans

I'd rather have something deeper (4.10+) in a truck of this nature. Make the most of what's left of a tired engine.

A few hundred more RPM at 70mph wont mean a damn thing.

 

[[486]]

I'd rather have something deeper (4.10+) in a truck of this nature. Make the most of what's left of a tired engine.

A few hundred more RPM at 70mph wont mean a damn thing.

lots of times it's kinda the difference between going 60 and going 75, you just get good at managing the long throw from sliding-gear first into synchronized second

friend's got a clapped out 2wd 300/c6 f250 with 4.56s or 5.13s in the back and it's doing 60 matted, just ain't got enough carburetor flow to spin any faster

 

[350TacoZilla]

3.55 with a 31-33 tire will probably work out pretty nice with the deep first gear

 

[Provience]

I'd rather have something deeper (4.10+) in a truck of this nature. Make the most of what's left of a tired engine.

A few hundred more RPM at 70mph wont mean a damn thing.

It's really dramatic thebdifference between the stock 2v and the 4v intake carb swap on the 400. It used to roll over and die about 3k rpm, with the 4v it can cruise and live at 3500 rpm.

Yeah the cam is tiny and compression is low and all that jazz so there isn't a bunch of "hp" actually gained and it probably now rolls over on itself at 4k rpm, but 4k is above 90mph and I'm just not getting there in a meaningful way to care.

Anyways, the point is those few hundred rpm really do suck and ideally this won't be a 70 mph truck anyways.

 

[Provience]

Cross posting seat cover bed sheet pictures from the daily thread.

And got rid of the screws for the floor, longest part of this was removing the screws as many of them didn't want to come out easily. Chinese rivet gun worked well, for 30 bucks I'm very happy with it.

3m automotive weather strip sealant, stage 2 is what I used for glue. Kind of fun as it's sort of sticky, stays put but doesn't make a mess.

Stuck some of the old vinyl floor to bridge the gap on this one piece. Easier than properly forming the aluminum. Otherwise, thar she be

 

[TRINDU]

It's really dramatic thebdifference between the stock 2v and the 4v intake carb swap on the 400. It used to roll over and die about 3k rpm, with the 4v it can cruise and live at 3500 rpm.

Yeah the cam is tiny and compression is low and all that jazz so there isn't a bunch of "hp" actually gained and it probably now rolls over on itself at 4k rpm, but 4k is above 90mph and I'm just not getting there in a meaningful way to care.

Anyways, the point is those few hundred rpm really do suck and ideally this won't be a 70 mph truck anyways.

Absolutely! On my '79 F350 I tossed the heavy iron 2bbl intake for a swap meet 4bbl and q-jet. Was a whole new truck.

I use to daily it with 36" swampers, 4.10s, and np435. No tach, so no idea on RPM but that 400m ran 70mph with traffic just fine. Hell, I started off in 2nd most the time.