1972 F-250 2wd to 4wd build

[rattle_snake]

I'm committed now and want to drive this thing. What can go wrong?

Working on getting trans itself.
Ordered more stuff:
-new engine and exhaust gaskets
-trans cooler hoses and fittings
-new trans cooler

Controller is out a few weeks.

Plenty of things to work on.

 

[Snowracer]

cant get over how clean and organized your shop is when pulling the drive train my poor shop would have truck parts and floor dry all over the place

 

[rattle_snake]

I pile all the shit in the bed.

Others have mentioned I have a 'condition'. Me putting tools away while they are still trying to use them.
A grown up playing with truck parts and no one to stop the insanity. Everything my way. Organized, things in their happy place, sterile. No wife to micromanage or kids to leave a mess.

Got a trans lined up. 2013 F150 5.0 4x4 86k for $1300 shipped on ebay.

 

[rattle_snake]

Back to work on the TC adapter. Need machining down the body to clear shift rail. Found a 1.25 boring bar which seemed about right.

one pass, slow.

still not a lot of room for linkage hardware.

Instead of 2nd pass I milled a flat in shifter arm and welded a captive nut at reduced height.

The mods needed to the TC side.
-shifter rail
-idler nut
-bearing retainer and bolts.
-shifter linkage clearance in rear/low

There are 2 clocking options, down (can't use) or up. Up puts front output flange up 1". Clearance to crossmember was very tight, 1/4" after some grinding to get TC down from hitting cab. So this is good and can drop trans/TC mount down and have more room in both places. Although I'm sure this will lead to more modifications.

 

[arse_sidewards]

Clearance is clearance.

 

[rattle_snake]

Also wanted to keep the shifter removable/installable without removing the transfer case. It's already a bitch to get to that fucking nut so welded that motherfucker.

 

[72Pstroke]

Your commitment to perfection is impressive.

 

[rattle_snake]

Thanks.
Sometimes it is a curse. Not happy with good result even when it is beyond the capability of average joe. Why didn't I think of this? If I only did that...

but

There are other builds here that are beyond me. Midnight panic for one.

so I carry on blasting heavy metal and turd polishing.

 

[rattle_snake]

Ordered a pair of rear springs from Alcan. Tried to give Deaver money many times couldn't make it happen.

cheby 63 with 7" of lift for shackle flip back to tension and no lift block. math says 8 but going conservative can adjust with a small block. 7 weeks.

 

[rattle_snake]

Puttering along with a few aspects of 72 Ford project. Built and engine cradle to help mock-up the drivetrain. I built it in place with some scraps metal I can't seem to find a use for. Then put the engine on a typical stand for re-seal job.

Cradle leaves bell housing available to put the trans adapter on. Bolts to mounts and supports rear from some manufacturing points

 

[rattle_snake]

While engine is out it is a good time to address the tight clearances of the engine to crossmember. When moving engine down and back for A/C system I had to go as far as I could. Left just 1/4" or less, which is not enough to drop pan to pull front cover (for cam or whatever). So I cut some minimal reliefs in crossmember.

For the rear notch I use a piece of 1-1/4"angle, as it was the only 3/16 x 1-1/4 material I had. The other side of the angle adds meat to the plane that needs it (Z/Y). So it should be stronger than before and/or I added stress points.

Wrapped up the transfer case. The PTO cover had slight leak. Cleaned up case to fresh bare metal and hammered the cover bolt holes back to flat. Considered drilling more holes for additional bolts, but ended up just making a 'stiffener' to spread load at lowest bolt that is at fluid level. Found some SS hex plugs to replace the plain square steel ones. Still need to devise a plan for the shifter.

 

[rattle_snake]

On to the engine reseal job. Pulled oil pan to replace the rubber one piece gasket. I had originally installed it dry. Did a pressure test of coolant system originally, which failed, so had to pull front cover and drop pan to do so. Assume it didn't go back together well enough, likely already contaminated with oil. It was definitely leaking at right rear and left front areas. Engine has 3200 miles and is very clean inside. Pan had no metal or debris in it. Ran a tap down all the pan bolt hole and cleaned them out with solvent

Installed a new Ford racing gasket and used minimal RTV (right stuff) on both sides. This pan, rails and gasket are for late model pickup, so have to hog out the 4 corner bolts to 5/16. step drill works well to not rip the steel inserts out. Cleaned up the oily hardware and put a tiny dap of anti seize on.

Next the valve covers. Both sides were leaking. Rubber gaskets glued to cover side. When I had to pull drinker's side head I worked the cover rail to bare metal and was able to get a half decent seal. So touched it up and worked imperfections out of the other side, to bare clean metal. Checked for loose push rods. OEM bolt down rockers so no need to adjust.

Installed new Fel-pro rubber gaskets with tabs for the stock valve covers. RTV both sides, as no need to remove for valve lash adjustment. Cleaned up the exhaust surfaces and touched up paint on the exhaust ports. It will burn back off..
Reinstalled the coolant drain plugs with some thread sealer. Pulled engine mounts to repaint, as the VHT engine paint is NOT oil resistant until it is heat cycled. I had used it on many things like steering and link bars. All look like shit and most things are repainted Duplicolor cast iron. lubed the mount bushing with silicon and reinstalled.

 

[rattle_snake]

Moved the engine back to the stand to start test fit of adapter plates.
Looking sexy.

Converter spacer is a big heavy hunk of aluminum.

Front end is almost at limit straps with engine weight out/

Spiffed up my steering shaft while truck is apart. Multiple brake fluid leaks did a number on the high temp paint that never cured.

Cleaned, prepped and painted with Dupli engine paint that should hold up better.

 

[arse_sidewards]

Wanna do us a favor and slide a SBF bell onto that modular adapter and tell us all if the old internet "a modular is just a SBF but with the dowels and bolt swapped" lore is true?

 

[rattle_snake]

I don't have any SBF stuff anymore, but I believe your question is answered in a long strung out discussion here:

6R80 Transmission Swap Info

This is fun stuff! I've been looking at doing a 6R80 and Atlas transfer case (twin stick but not sure if there's enough driveline length for that). Keep up the good work and keep posting your findings, part numbers, links, etc.

www.fullsizebronco.com

"While the 6R80 bolts up directly to the Windsor, I had to turn new alignment dowels on the lathe. There is no need for a bellhousing adapter plate."
"Three original bellhousing bolt holes line up; plus, the two alignment dowels line up."

So you have 3 bolts that don't and the starter issue.

 

[rattle_snake]

Initial test fit of trans identified a few items to modify.
Modular starter (not used) 3rd bolt boss hit exhaust.

So I cut it off and smoothed out the area.

I was wondering why the engine adapter kit came with a starter. Tried stuffing my existing PMGR unit in and no go. Looking at them together I see the new one has no forward bearing support to fit in the shallow pocket machined into the adapter.

The upper bell housing bolts have a long boss and potential to interfere with firewall. Seemed like the time to fix, cut off 1/2". I left as much boss material as possible to support webbing inside.

Made a crude tool on the lathe in an attempt to machine the boss down. It worked OK for a short time, then was just a hassle. Now I can loosely claim I am a machinist and a 'tool maker' at that

I used a squared chunk of steel clamped to bell face and a combo square to check the angles of the cuts in both planes and was able to get them pretty straight with a flap wheel. Then cleaned up the whole flange.
Somehow things then got way out of hand and I went over the whole case and smoothed out the casting flashing and surface imperfections.

After a thorough cleaning I painted the case and converter.

My daughter asked why I was painting things no one will see when assembled. My only answer was, 'because no one is stopping me'.

 

[rattle_snake]

Picked up a AN8 cooler line adapter that is pretty slick. Going to use 1/2" J1532 TOC hose.

Bolted up the trans and the TC adapter and it's starting to come together.

Slipped the TC on to check fitment and build a shifter mount.

Driveshaft double cardan cage clears trans case and pan.

Pulled the trans cross member to modify location of trans mount. Luckily it is same bolt spacing so I can use existing one.

The location moved back 6", which is somewhat of a magic number, as x-mem is 4" wide, so I just moved the existing mount to the back side. The guy who welded on the original mount completely welded every inch both side, corners, so a pain to remove. This time I put a few nice beads where they count. Might have to modify again, and could do in the chassis if needed. An of course turd polished the finish and fresh paint.

 

[rockota]

you get more done in a week than I do in a year.

 

[rattle_snake]

Figured out where TC shifter needed to go and started to fab a boss similar to the old. Cut a hunk of 1.25" round stock and ground a flat for threading. Drilled and tapped a 5/8-12 threads.

made a tab to utilize and existing case mount and welded together.

Threaded smaller hole in case and but other was too big, so threaded the steel tab to secure.

Tight fit to case, but still out farther than the C6. Will see if it fits in floor hole.

 

[rattle_snake]

you get more done in a week than I do in a year.

My neighbor calls me Mary Poppins because he thinks a multitude of shit magically happens in a short time.

But I'm just motivated to get this thing back on the road. Fab work is play time for me.

 

[Snowracer]

damn that looks so good

 

[reptillikus]

Whats the overall length of the trans with the bell adapter? Curious how it compares to my short C6. I really like the idea of going from a C6 to a 6R80, and i think most of the issues you have i wouldnt simply due to having the 203 range box in between the trans & the 205.

I dunno if i could do such a clean job installing it tho. Looks awesome thus far

 

[rattle_snake]

The 6R80 with adapters is same length as C6 w/ long tail. 29.25"
So the 205 didn't move, other than clocked up.

 

[reptillikus]

That is so badass. I wonder if I can afford to lose another couple inches of driveshaft. Or, I wonder if I could swap the 203 box for a shorter box, like a black box or something.

I don't want to derail your thread any further. Carry on

 

[rattle_snake]

well, with 6R80 first gear of 4.17, it is almost like having the 203 box behind a C6. 1.73x lower first gear.

Both end up with 6 gears:
C6/203: 4.92, 2.92, 2, // 2.46, 1.46, 1
6R80: 4.17, 2.34, 1.57, 1.14, 0.87, 0.69

I would seem the c6/203 would do better crawling as you get 2 sets of close ratio gears. All three gears in c6 with 203 in low are between 6r 1st and 2nd.

Suggest 6R80/eco/205 or 6R80/4 spd atlas

 

[rattle_snake]

With Dune trip postponed and raining weather preventing landscaping work, I put in a lot of hours on the truck. Turd polishing and improving small items. loose nut to captive nuts so no wrench needed. Ditch a lot of washers with no purpose, and got rid of most all split lock washers. Using locktite blue instead as needed. Deleted most all the P-clamps I took off. Striving to get to 1970 Ford OEM level.

Pulled drivetrain apart for final assembly. Painted separator plate and outside of adapter. Installed flex plate and tested starter fitment and operation as per Speed Gem's recommendation. Starter is clockable so it could work on motor stand.

Attached trans and prepared to test fit trans in tunnel. Should fit right?

In, but was a battle as a one man show.

Trans contacts tunnel and throttle pedal assembly. Trans mount to high. Trans pan rear bolts are blocked by cross member.

One trans bolt is blocked, and was used for trans shifter mount.

Pulled motor/trans back out to address all the issues. This time I un-bolted the motor mount from the motor instead of chassis, which allows the pair to come out much easier.
Clearance top case rib with flap wheel where it hit firewall/tunnel pinch weld.

Selectively beat the shit out of the tunnel seam and trans hump cover with 4# sledge. Cut the trans mount of cross member, glad this time the welds were accessible and easy to cut. Hammered the bolt head area as well, which is about under gas pedal.

With pan partially blocked, time to service was now. Pulled pan off, clean, no muck or metal. Still a few quarts in it.

Replacement filter was broken inside package, so had to find one locally and drive across town to get it while apart.

With pan off I dilled a hole and welded in 1/8 FPT bung for trans temp sensor. Painted pan and installed with lube locker gasket
Some day CAN interface may be supported and external sensor not needed if EFI/trans/dash can share data. ($$$$).

Reinstalled motor and trans, much easier this time with clearance issues resolved and motor mounts out of the way. 5 min job now.

 

[rattle_snake]

On to the details of trans swap, cooling, shifter, mount and so on.

Bought a new OEM Ford 6.0l plate style trans cooler instead of attempt to clean the existing. Had to do same mods as before. Cut off mount brackets of old and welded into new. Modified lower mounts. Painted, installed, connected hoses.
I like that the cooler lines are in the left side away from the exhaust. Now right side frame rail is empty, all plumbing and wiring on left.

Trans mount needed to be flipped over and mount angle was now backwards, again. Already cut up too much so started over and made a new mount to fit correctly. Shimmed trans and installed transfer case to check fitment of front drive shaft and cab. Ample clearance everywhere. Picked a mid height point with existing 0.75" shims so rear of drivetrain is adjustable up and down.

Welded to crossmember. Appear that those rear bolt could come out if needed.

On to trans shifter mock up. Cut bracket upper mount off and used existing bell crank from c6. Shift order of 6R is opposite from column shift like C6, so bell crank reverses and allow detent spread ratio correction.

Ended up reworking the trans bracket a few more times, shortened and moved pivot boss as needed. Tapped unused trans bolt hole to 1/2-20 thread so I could use bolt to secure the top end of the bracket. Changed the ratio by drilling additional holes in bell crank. Found a decent ratio match and corrected indicator position error with linkage length.
Similar to linear calibration, just gain and offset :)
Decided on cooler hose routing and connected the other end using 8 AN swivel/barb and Oetiker clamps.

Installed drive shafts, exhaust, starter and didn't have any more fitment issues. Dressed engine and assembled front clip.

 

[reptillikus]

I see a fancy speed sensor in the tcase. So what are you using for your speedometer (edit: went back and saw the Dakota Digital dash), and will it work for the 6R80? Or are you using the VSS in the Sterling for the trans? Also, what controller are you using? Quick6?


[derail]
Oh yeah - if my research is correct, 6R80 + ORD magnum box + NP205 = 3/8" longer than short C6 + 203/205 doubler i think i could make that work pretty easily!
Youre right tho, the 203 isnt necessary considering the gear spread of the 6R80. Im gonna need you to work all the bugs out, so i can save up and do this to mine! (i have a D70 rear so i need to figure out a speed signal)

/end derail

 

[rattle_snake]

Yes that is the VSS that ships with DD dash kit. The 6R80 doesn't require a VSS signal, it generates the VSS and has an pulse output that can be used by the DD. I ran the 6R VSS wire to the DD so I can delete the dedicated sensor at some point. Yes I am using the quick 6, it has an input for low range and will compensate speed signal. ratios are programmable.

But the single input wire also does transbrake so likely use it for that. Can't wait to launch on nitrous with new setup

 

[rattle_snake]

Working on getting the Quick6 trans controller installed.
Step one was to pick a mounting location and make a suitable bracket. Glove box made sense as it has lot of wires. The box has connectors on all sides but the top so made a bracket accordingly with captive nuts.
Only a few vehicle connections are needed, power, TPS. I also ran wires for shift buttons, VSS and the aux input. Split the harness up into engine compartment and in cab bundles.

The glove box area is mostly used by the A/C system so the controller doesn't reduce usability. The A/C box itself has another glove box compartment.
There was an existing 5/8 hole in firewall for camper special wiring that I had repurposed for high current stereo wiring. It was in the only usable location, but need larger to fit the large plugs through. Opended up to 1-1/4". All I have is a hole saw in that size, so I slid a spacer sleeve over the center drill with OD about the existing hole size. Worked great, put in a grommet and ran trans wiring and the 2 ga power calbe.