1972 F-250 2wd to 4wd build

[Deleted Member]

Thanks Fleck'. Was hard to find 'regular' bed 8' camper. Most are trash with broken windows.

Steering is making some horrible popping and banging sounds. TRE at pitman is fucked already. I think I damaged it by lifting truck on the 2-post in the process of installing limit straps on front axle.

Not sure what set up you are running on the steering... mine was roached too, I did find NOS to the tune of $60 bucks though.

I have an extra too, lemme know what size and I can give it to ya. The boot is torn, but the TRE is solid.

 

[rattle_snake]

Thanks for the offer. I converted to GM 1T TRE, so ordered a replacement ES2026R.

 

[jimbo92]

Man this thing oozes period correct coolness. Love the wheels and camper shell

 

[rattle_snake]

Thanks man. I think I hit my goal but it continues to test my patience and sanity. I guess I need problems to solve. Or at least the kind of problems I like to solve. Like nitrous systems.

I'm still on the fence about leaving camper shell on it all the time. It is light and easy to remove, and can fit my other F250.

 

[rattle_snake]

Looks like my steering kit from 'Ruff came with a 2027R and not a ES2026R. the 2026 shank is too long. Plan C would be to bend the drag link to ease angle at pitman arm if new 2027 is bound at limit strap droop limit.

 

[Deleted Member]

I'm not a big fan of bending drag links bro... Any way ya might be able to cut and turn it down maybe? OR, just get the 2027R?

 

[rockota]

I'm not a big fan of bending drag links bro... Any way ya might be able to cut and turn it down maybe? OR, just get the 2027R?

many are not straight from the factory....

And in the spirit of the classic parts of this build, I think he needs a 14" drop draglink.... welded in Z formation.

 

[Deleted Member]

many are not straight from the factory....

And in the spirit of the classic parts of this build, I think he needs a 14" drop draglink.... welded in Z formation.

True, but they are engineered that way. My experience with adding a kink for clearance has always resulted in spooky steering. Just me though... carry on.

 

[rattle_snake]

I have a 2027R coming so that is plan A. But if it binds before straps are tight, then need to do something.
I could bend bar and use the 2026R I already have to make up the length if needed.

But yes would have to bent into a 'z' with pointy corners. Maybe even some idler pivots to use 2 or 3 drag link bars all linked together. chromed of course, flame design. Iron crosses thrown in as needed. couple skulls too.

 

[Deleted Member]

I have a 2027R coming so that is plan A. But if it binds before straps are tight, then need to do something.
I could bend bar and use the 2026R I already have to make up the length if needed.

But yes would have to bent into a 'z' with pointy corners. Maybe even some idler pivots to use 2 or 3 drag link bars all linked together. chromed of course, flame design. Iron crosses thrown in as needed. couple skulls too.

 

[rattle_snake]

Installed some cheap LED headlights. Still deciding what I think of them....
They do use less power and should put out more light. Old bulbs were 100w/75w and these measure about 41w/17w (high/low), so just plugged into the factory harness. They are more blue than I want but not yellow like the 1800s technology.
New lenses made bezels look old so painted them and attempted to adjust. One of the adjusters was stripped so I spent some time fixing and somehow ended up painting the buckets and so on.

 

[rattle_snake]

I received a replacement TRE from Ruff stuff. I called them to confirm what TRE was in the kit I bought a year ago as they actually have real people who answer the phone. The kit I got had a 2027R instead of a 2026R. They offered to warrantee out the old, I was much appreciative. They do not list a 2027R on their site and I found only one other vendor online who did. They had a few 27s stashed away and dropped one in the mail that day. Great service, again. They have taken good care of me through this build.
So, you should go buy stuff from them.

I also swapped in a high flow thermostat on recommendation from Scotty at PPAM. Tried one of these reusable thermostat housing gaskets. I think it is not leaking. I put it on dry after resurfacing the faces.

I loaded up the dogs and went around the block to test for leaks and new headlights. They are definitely much brighter and an improvement over the old. Beam pattern is OK. I re-adjusted further.

The existing stereo mounting was robust but could look better, had a significant gap above and below. I found a Metra adapter for a Volvo that works OK. It's the wrong angle but at least fills the gaps. I may buy a $75 repo radio bezel and cut it up to match and fit better.

 

[holdmypocket]

What were the cheap LEDs you went with and did you install them with just the stock harness? My old-school headlights need to be replaced, figure a cheap upgrade couldn't hurt for now.

 

[rattle_snake]

I had items in cart and got swayed by prime day, $87. They have std H4 plug, just plugged in. lower current than the incandescent.

Amazon.com

Looks like they are a knockoff of these Rigids for 5x the price

Amazon.com

 

[rattle_snake]

Puttering away on annoying shit like leaks, convivence and comfort. Not exciting but things that need to be fixed to bring up overall experience similar to a modern vehicle, or I'll just drive one of them. 1st world problems.

Added keyless entry. $34. I tried to install harness as-is but ended up completely reconfiguring for my application. Has only 3 things, pwr, left and right. door wires too short. Actuators were not that hard to install but require care to not scratch window glass or tint.

Painted the gill inserts. I put a half-ass coat of black on one to see how it would look. Made eye focus on other black stuff behind grill, core support, condenser, plumbing. Looked like what a high school kid would do. So decided to keep silver and which makes the grill the focus.

The plastics are old, etched, faded, sagging, so rattle can it is. $0.

 

[rattle_snake]

The rear brake circuit reservoir of master cylinder is pushing fluid out of cap. Was almost empty at 1000 miles. cleaned everything and found no leaks other than the cap itself, which leaks badly. Not sure why it is getting pushed out. Was a problem when I originally installed years ago, bent latch to make capo really tight. Now issue again. The cap has a dent for a vent, that is where it leaks. Planning hydroboost so maybe a new/different MC is answer.

The P/S pump also pukes fluid badly out the cap. No other leaks. Using dex/merc same as trans. Maybe synth PS fluid would be better. Maybe ATF is foaming. Need to warm up and inspect while running. No gasket on cap.

The new TRE @ pitman fixed the wheel hop and wobble issues. Hopefully it and track bar rod end will last. For as loose as they were the truck still drove well. My 2014 doesn't tolerate any slop even with decent caster (4*)

 

[rattle_snake]

Felt the need to weld and grind stuff so started on rear bumper v2.0. I have a lot of other upgrades I want to do, but for some reason re-doing the bumper made it to the top of the list. Guess it is because it will have a quick impact on how it looks. Getting a little further away from grandpa truck.

Another reason is to improve departure angle, which sucks on a long bed. Had dreams of bobbing the bed, but with fuel tank there I don't think I will do that any time soon if ever. The old bumper hung low and far out, lots of room for improvement, but still up high enough to fit a bar stool under. I built frame mounts to adapt this old school bumper back in November, so it made it 7 months. Was a PITA to install after final welds, fail on the bracketry.

So started with some sketches and Cardboard Aided Design (CAD). I stole the design from CBI's taco bumper, minus the swing arm and side plates. Considered cutting lower rear bedsides instead of cutouts in bumper top, but didn't see a big benefit.
As good as it looked on the bench, it was a fail once I put it on the truck. Ratios off. Too big and fat. Didn't match front bumper.

So on to CAD design #2. Removed the vertical plate to make it a 3-sider like the front bumper. Condensed depth 2" to slim it up. Taper starts narrower in at step instead of at frame width. Now it looked too compact and tight, ratios still off.

So final design got widened an inch, top a inch deeper, and sides tapered less. With final cross section shape I modified the brackets, although height is dependent on width along taper. Added some scabs to raise height of top of bumper by 4" over the old. The step and receiver are up 3/4" over the old bumper.

Cut some shapes with plasma and tacked pieces into a bumper looking thing. The bumper ends hit the bed corners, as expected, so I modified the sheet metal slightly to provide clearance. Still a long way to go, next steps are the receiver, bracing, attaching brackets, clevis mounts, wiring plug hole, license plate threads & light and so on.

 

[rockota]

man.... torn on this mod.

turned out great.... but I was digging the grandpa rear bumper.

 

[rattle_snake]

Ya me too. The grandpa bumper looked the part, but left a lot to be improved.

Lots of welding and grinding to go. grinding sucks, so amount of filler wire in seams important....
Then see if it still fits worth a shit.

 

[Projectjunkie]

I think the style is sharp for a newer truck, and your work is clean, as always but...

I never thought that old man bumper worked against a restomod truck, some stuff is timeless

Does your new bumper interfere with the tailgate?

 

['84 Bronco II]

I dig the new bumper; very clean and functional.

Looks way better than the old school bumper in my opinion, so

 

[71PA_Highboy]

How are you integrating a trailer hitch? External, internal w/reinforcement, ???

 

[Loki89t]

New bumper looks great, I need one like it for my truck.

 

[rattle_snake]

I think the style is sharp for a newer truck, and your work is clean, as always but...

I never thought that old man bumper worked against a restomod truck, some stuff is timeless

Does your new bumper interfere with the tailgate?

I liked the old school bumper for what it was. I'll probably repurpose it into some type of redneck fixture. Maybe a shallow beverage shelf like you see at a bar around a pool table. Place to set your beer and smokes.

I dig the new bumper; very clean and functional.

Looks way better than the old school bumper in my opinion, so

Now I can back over a Prius and not mangle the license plate.

How are you integrating a trailer hitch? External, internal w/reinforcement, ???

The hitch receiver tube is on the bottom of the step, recessed a bit. I wanted it as low as possible as it's already too high and needs a 12" drop hitch like the bro-dozers. This compromise limits departure angle but usually need more clearance at the ends of the bumper than the middle.

I thought about using a chicom 2-1/2 to 2" adapter sleeve, but found some real made in USA steel with seam carved out at local steel supply (IMS). Fits nice, thicker wall. Instead of a spreader bar to support the receiver, like a typical stand alone hitch, I designed the bumper to support with a brace on the back. Could add one additional piece to complete the box, to make a torque box out of middle section, but I don't think it is needed. I contemplated safety chain attachments and ended up making a simple gusset out of 1/4" to help support. Used a stub of DD steering shaft as guide to cut oval-ish hole with plasma.

Main support is single piece of plate that spans the mount brackets and weld directly to 3 sides of the receiver.

Unfortunately ruff clevis mounts are not sold in a pair, and I mistakenly ordered only one...
Ready to weld and grind for a few days.

New bumper looks great, I need one like it for my truck.

Thanks. Just time and money!

 

[72Pstroke]

Looking great, just like all the things you do.

 

[rattle_snake]

I liked the old school bumper for what it was. I'll probably repurpose it into some type of redneck fixture. Maybe a shallow beverage shelf like you see at a bar around a pool table. Place to set your beer and smokes.

Decided to put the old gramps bumper to use as a shelf above my workbench. I avoid having to look at clutter like chems and often used stuff, but made an exception. Adapted the BBC con rod paper towel holder to it.

 

[rockota]

Decided to put the old gramps bumper to use as a shelf above my workbench. I avoid having to look at clutter like chems and often used stuff, but made an exception. Adapted the BBC con rod paper towel holder to it.

Consider yourself forgiven for yanking that off the truck. That's cool!

 

[rattle_snake]

Ok I feel better now, thank 'ota
I almost modified the old, but I knew it would be more work and I would not be completely happy with result. So it lives on as a shelf.

 

[rattle_snake]

Finished up the rear bumper project, almost. Needs some shims to level, hog out some holes. Overall a decent fit on a crooked old truck.

Ended up adding some bracing inside the bumper to prevent the structure from deforming. I believe that failure from hitch overload would want to fold bumper in half, to unfold the step portion, so added 2 vertical supports right at the seam of the bottom pieces. This further supports license plate section also. Given vertical rear support, there are 3 chambers that would hold water, so I drilled drain holes. Seems silly here in AZ, but did it anyhow, because OCD.

Can now see tank, shackles, diff, tires and exhaust that old bumper covered up as it sat so low. Now need to modify tailpipe, likely just slash cut the end until complete re-do.

The tank is still protected somewhat by the departure angle limit of the new bumper. Bumper ends are at about 33" from ground, top of bumper is at 38" or so. Easy step up for anyone over 6'10" and under 30 yrs old.

I contemplated cutting off the lower bedsides an making the bumper sides extend all the way forward to the wheel well. As tuff and off-roady as that looks, it doesn't go with my goal of stock-ish sheet metal. So other than modifying (cut/hammering) the ends up a bit, I build bumper around the bed. The trim exits the endcap decently, so happy with result. plan to keep the trim at this time.
In the future I plan to build a mostly hidden slider in the area. More to come on that.

Added a reinforcement ring around receiver out of 1/4" x 1" flat bar. Gives a more typical and robust look, and supports the business end a bit more.

 

[rattle_snake]

Still fighting PS leak and steering noises. Can't quite locate the source of pop/bang. wheel turns smoothly all the way in both directions. All joints are good. Sounds like it is from axle, right side...
The PS pump pukes out of cap. I rev'ed up the motor while observing for foaming and saw that at certain RPMs it goes into mechanical resonance, and shakes the piss out of pump. There is also a ding in the reservoir's cap surface, worked it a bit. There is no seal in the cap, not sure if there should be (sag pump). I'm running DEX/MERC fluid same as trans, perhaps a synthetic PS fluid would be better

No support in horizontal plane, so wobbles into plane of belt especially now that I lengthen lower mount. So added some material which helped quite a bit. Real problem is single shear mounting scheme on long brackets. There is a bolt on the back of pump concentric with the front pivot, so one could build a rear support.

This is 4th round of mods to this bracket. I previously added support on back side with helped signifigantly.