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1968 Ford F-250 Prerunner Build

OK got the tercel back together and everything is running great on it, happy it should last for another 200K miles with simple maintenance.

Now got back on the Ford today. started on the rear shock mounts. Will be installing 90's on the coilover resi hose at the top cap as well.

These are the mock up tabs I tacked into place so I can make the outer shock template with nothing moving. Then once outer plate is in and tacked in place I can remove it to do the inner plate.
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I will cut the piece along the center of the down tube And add some vertical plate to gusset from shocks up to the top of the down bars.
I will also box them up to where my fingers are
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OK so today I started to box the mounts in. And the upper part being outward and the plates hole being cut level makes the box pieces very tricky since they have a angle on the top and bottom bends. But i was able to use the parts left from cutting out the tabs and tacked them together at the angle they needed, Then using a cutting torch heated up the metal to red hot and then hammered them around the pieces to get it close to fitting. Then tacked it in where it fit good and heat/hammered them till the fit as a nice outside corner joint. On the down tube you can see a line drawn where they need to be cut and welded.


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OK so I wasn't happy with the middle box in piece so I cut them out and remade them today. As you can see the gaps between the 1/8" piece and the 3/16" shock mount tabs. Got those cut out and remade along with the front piece ct out and tacked in place as well. Will need to get 90's on the coilover resi hose and then I can box in the bottoms to finish them up.

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OK so today I jumped back to the front of the truck to get the intercooler radiator and pump mounts. As well as mounting the engine oil cooler on the driver side outside of radiator but infront of the tire at full bump and turning. Going to bend/install the upper oil cooler mount tomorrow and then work on getting the truck forward so I can start on mounting the fuel cell and stuff out behind the rear axle.


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Brings back some memories Tommy!
Hope you're doing well!
 

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OK so started on the fuel cell mount. Originally I thought the cell would be able to be behind the axle bulkhead by a foot or so but I didn't want the cell to be sticking out way past the bedsides so I moved it forward. The cell is a 55 gal harmon bladder I got years ago and built an aluminum can for it. The cell is just the can in the photos bladder has been removed so I can finish the lid and such and not worry about splatter messing up the bladder.


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OK so I added a couple more diagonal tubes from middle of fuel cell up the the top edge of the bulkhead. Top was a tricky notch since the tube had a very steep angle and it landed on the edge of the bulkhead along with notching onto the tubes from the fuel cell mount. Luckily I have an Ameribrade belt sander with their small wheel kit that made the notches much more accurate and faster.

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OK so got the sway bar mocked up. It came with some delrin bushings BUT trying to run 2 pieces of tubing OR make the tube removable so I could remove the cell wasn't going to work. I know a few guys that have these same bearings and have had good luck with them so I went this route as well.

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OK did the rear drum brakes on my daily driver Toyota Tercel today since they were grinding a little bit. Then I did a couple tubes above the fuel cell and made some tube clamps as well for that. Spare tires will sit on top of these tubes and on bottom of them will have some metal down to hold the fuel cell down and in place. Also added some gussets to the sway bar mounts as well.

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OK so got started on the rear air bumps. They are a fox 2.5" air bump with an air shock top eyelet and they use a steel 2 piece clamp that I machined the ID of it to fit perfectly around the bump.

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OK so I got the bottom mounts tacked and partially welded in place today. Angled the top and bottom and boxed it in as well as welding the inside of the plates to the clamp and frame rails. Also I will paint this truck after some testing and such Orange and White 2 tone so the trucks new nick name is Creamsicle

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I wonder how many split shaft collars have actually be mounted on shafts and how many have just had shit welded to them and been used to hold other shit onto round shit. I bet it's at least 10:1 in favor of the latter. :laughing:
 
Well I got 2 and machined them and then in the move from AZ couldn't find them so bought and machined 2 more so thats 4.

I found the 2 I machined first so I have 2 I would sell if anyone needs some.
 
OK well helped a friend do their brakes on a newer Tacoma and then added 90's on the rear coilover hoses. Once that was installed I boxed the bottom of the rear coilover mounts. Tomorrow will be removing the rear shocks to add a diagonal brace from the cab cage to the rear axle bulkhead.

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OK I added a couple more tubes to the backhalf from the bottom of the B pillar up to the intersection of the down tubes and bump stop bulkhead. Also here is a photo of the diagonal next to fuel cell that I forgot to take photo of yesterday.

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OK so I am going to make some mock up axles with the stock axle shafts and a driveshaft 1350 long slip. Now once I make those and make sure everything works without binding or issues I will need to get new D50 inner axle made for the short side with the seal, AND i will need to make a inner long side axle BUT i will need to have the same spline OR another long 7" spline inner and a matching 1350 U-joint slip yoke. Do you guys suggest to contact for these axles, and anyone know of a 1350 long slip that is finer spline similar to how axles normally are?

I am currently mocking up this 1.5" 16 spline. I cut the bell end for the driveline tubing off and machined it down to 1" to fit inside a piece of tubing for mockup. And if I could I would run a 1350 u-joint driveline slip yoke as well if a axle MFG can machine those splines. Thanks

www.ebay.com

Long travel slip yoke and stub set 1350 series 1.5"-16 splines | eBay

Y2K200 stub: 1.5"-16 splines, Tubing 2.5x0.083", Butt dia. 2.344", End of spline to weld 10.125". Y2K100-5 slip yoke: 1.5"-16 splines, C/L to end of spline 10.53", C/L to face of plug 1.75. They can be used for Rock roller.
www.ebay.com
 
Not a ton of help, but close to 10 years ago when I was looking seriously at building my own toyota LT solo motorsports put me in touch with the guys building their shafts. I can't for the life of me remember who it was but they were super helpful.

Is RCV an option? I talked to them at the same time and they were ok at getting back to me. Big company and all that.

Edit: Just cruised through my email and couldn't find anything, but solo got right back to me when I asked out of the blue
 
yeah RCV can make them no problem, well one problem. The slip on the passenger side inner axle is basically stock length. They don't offer one long enough for my application they said.
 
Can you do a splined yoke welded/snap ringed/bolted onto a generic custom shaft?
 
Basically I am willing to pay someone to make me a custom D50 axle shaft with the spline I currently have 1.5" x 16 spline BUT I have no idea who can even do that.
 
They're the same OD as the the 30spl with a different profile correct? Couldn't you have a blank long side cut down and splined to whatever you want?
 
The 2 tubes that the spare tire sits on was going to hit the fuel cell fill plate vent so I redid that with a bend, but I don't have any photos since I put the tire on top for mockup and a 40 on trail ready beadlock isn't the lightest thing and with the truck sitting so high I didn't feel like taking it off until I get the bumper tube mocked up.

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