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1968 Ford F-250 Prerunner Build

Ok got my motor back from the local engine builder. Iron block 6.0L bored 5 thou over with forged pistons and connecting rods, rebuilt heads, dual row timing chain, and a bunch of other new items but that's it for the upgrades, which was mainly the forged pistons and forged connecting rods and with the power I am shooting for it wasn't necessary for me to go with full forged crank so kept it stock and they polished it up to perfection. Motor is all bolted up, AN Fitting where the PCV valve was is welded into the valve cover, AN fitting for turbo drain into oil pan and then bolted the flywheel onto the motor. Mated the transmission which is stage 3 billet internal goodies 4L80e with a billet torque converter. Got those all torqued down, loctite where needed and ready to reinstall. BUT I am leaving again tomorrow to do more drywall work on my new shop setup since I gotta have everything moved out of this shop by the end of the month. Time crunch is a understatement.

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Loving all the progress, your new place will be awesome. Great idea on the paint scheme. Keep it up even through you're limited on your time.
 
Thanks. Items that I know I am not going to remove or want to remove I am taking a little more time now to paint and do the stuff how I want it in the end. Since taking an extra hour here or there is much much less time than it would take to redo it later.
 
Ok well today went really bad. No idea how it happened since it was all bolted together, unbolted it all, painted and then went to reassemble today and somehow the motor mounts wouldn't bolt onto the bushings in the frame and allow the transmission mount/crossmember to bolt into. So I spent the afternoon bolting the passenger motor mount on, getting the motor level left/right AND get the motor angle forward/backwards correctly. So I was able to get this stuff all in today BUT i had to remake the motor side of the drivers motor mount, somehow it was off by about 1/2" even though it was all bolted in together before removing it. So tomorrow I will finish bolting all the motor/trans/t-case in so then I can bolt on the front beams and such to get the hubs and mock up shocks on as well as steering so I can get this thing a roller to get it loaded up on my trailer and ready for the big move. I am going to be painting the inside of the shop this weekend so after that happens and this truck and some parts are out of my shop I can start arranging everything to get ready to load it in my 53' semi trailer for the big move. Didn't take shit for pictures today since I was frustrated that this simple remove, paint, and reinstall job kicked my butt.

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Ok well today we got the motor/trans/t-case all bolted in. Then we got the front suspension bolted on so we could get it set down on the tires to load onto the trailer tomorrow. I made some steel pipe's the tabs on the ends to simulate shocks BUT one of them bent on the front end which caused it to jerk down bending both rear ones. SO i jacked up the frame and put a block of wood between the i-beams and frame, and then did the same to the rear with a 2x4 between rear axle and the frame. That got the truck sitting on all 4's. I didn't put the steering on so the tires are held together with 2 ratchet straps.

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Lookin mean Tommy!
I'm not sure Orange is the right direction.

Thinking A10 Warthog theme might fit better.

But I might be biased?
 

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Here is how the shop was this when I arrived on Friday. I made some outlet covers to hide the edge of cut drywall and they turned out great. ALSO there is the Allen UTI Diagnostic Machine with lots of accessories and instruction manual too. Anyone have any references to that or know what it would be worth?

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So we moved stuff around in the shop and got all the walls primed and painted. Then started moving stuff around in the shop and more of the left items that I know are worth something out to a shed for storage until I am moved out and can start listing the items for sale. The shelves and the cabinets on the left, 2 stacked and 1 next to it were all left in this shop along with about 10 more shelving units that are in the shed where we put the items to go through and sell in future.

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Thanks and yeah it's a big lathe for sure. Gotta have it that big for the 2" through hole so I can drill and tap any size tubing I'll ever need. Clausing 15 x 50 that Probably weighs 2500lbs atleast
 
Whats up with the chuck guard, must have come from somewhere that OSHA wandered through often.

Bitchin shop, you guys have done a lot of work in a short amount of time
 
Thanks and not planning on keeping the chuck guard it was on there when I got it. Need to figure out how to use all the levers and such on it but should do all I ever need and more.
 
Ok I got a Komatsu forklift for a good deal that needed a little work, aka get starter rebuilt, new lower radiator hose since it had no coolant in it AND the front right brake would lock up when in reverse since it was adjusted too tight AND a tiny pin hole in the hydraulic hose for the side shift. Got new hoses for that made and installed, pulled the wheel, axle and drum/hub off and adjusted the brakes so now it spins freely. I couldn't drive it to test since the starter is getting fixed and i'll pick that up Friday they said. So while i'm waiting for that I'm getting the shop setup BUT i really need a forklift to move some items especially my new to me Clausing Colchester 15" x 50" engine Lathe. No on the lathe I took an old bent screw driver and ground the end to a nice taper so I could turn and clean the X axis feed screw. Got that all cleaned up and cleaned the lathe and chip bed as well with some scotch bright, a rag and WD40. No here's the thing I cannot figure out. The cross slide was locked up going toward and away from operator BUT that was a large bolt that was tight to lock that down, Loosened that and then clean it and got it to move freely BUT it's fairly tight and not having a little handle on the crank wheel sucks. No the axis on the cross slide the would go toward or away from the chuck is locked up and will not move. I removed the allen screws that go into the ways on it and sprayed some WD40 in there but it's locked up tight. Anyone know of a bolt/nut that locks the axis in that direction? Also I am now living at the house with shop so if you need photos of something else just let me know. Thank You

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Ok so the toolpost that came on the lathe is a KDK but it only has 1 holder so I changed that out and been busy doing stuff on the house/shop.

I will post some updated photos BUT i am all moved into the house and shop been busy getting the shop all setup and small projects this month. Forklift tilt cylinders started leaking oil super bad when moving my lathe and mill. SO i took those off and they were super tough to tear apart SO i took them to a local shop that said $100 each they would tear them apart and like $30 for seals. So they are at that shop until probably Monday since its a Komatsu aka metric seals they don't stock. I did get my 7.5hp rotary phase converter wired up and wired the lathe up. So mounted my new CXA quick change tool post and the height of the tool post holder to get the tooling centered was maxing out the height on my tool holders. So i had a piece of 3/8" thick plate so drilled a 3/4" hole and put that below it to make the adjusters more centered. Also I have like 7 tool post holders now so I made a holder for those tonight and got that mounted up. No photos of anything else because i've been busy working on stuff all day and never stop for photos or really even stop to eat, besides picking up an order from Lasernut on monday. Nice being less than 2 hrs from them so I don't have to pay to 250-350 freight ontop of the ridiculous cost of steel parts now.. Gotta get this stuff done so I can get back onto my projects. Also the china DRO and some more items for my mill should arrive on Monday so I'll get to play with that. And once the forklift is going again I will get my 2 post lift installed as well

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If you're doing metal fab in the same room you will want your tooling in drawers or cabinets to keep it from always being dusty.
 
Yeah I considered that but all metal fab will be done at opposite end of the shop around 60ft away. Also with the swamp cooler and exhaust fan blowing everything towards the fab end of the shop I hope it will all be good. I don't do anything precision with the lathe. Just turn things down a a bit till it fitsm
 
I toss an old EZ-up cover (that a wind storm ‘adjusted’ the frame to the dumpster) over my lathe and have an old craftsman tool box for tooling that fits under the chip tray.

My lathe is only like a 48” between centers though, so tossing the tarp over the ~7’ long tool is easier than it would be on yours.
 
That's a good idea. I have a tarp that has holes on one end I don't use anymore but could cut it up and it'll work perfect for covering these up.
 
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