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'05+ Ford Super Duty Dana 60 Axle Tech & Info

The tighter the better when it comes to backlash around this neck of the woods. Seen much better results with longevity in abusive applications with tighter specs vs .005+. Are you trying to get 100k miles out of your gears? I set my wheel bearings up tight as hell too.
 
I'll throw in some more research questions.
What is the difference between 2005-2012 and 2012+ knuckles for F250/350? Is it just the brakes? Will the newer brakes work with 17" rim?

It sounds like there was an adapter to go to older brakes with the 2012+ knuckle. Anyone have a link?

Is it worth going with the Super 60(450) setup over a 2005+ F250/350?

In order to go with a Super 60, it sounds like I would need F250/350 unit bearings to get to 8 lug(8x6.5"). Or can the 10 lug be redrilled for 8 lug? Does the stock F250/350 brakes work? Or is it aftermarket only?

In pricing out high steer machining on knuckles, it is almost looking like it is worth going aftermarket like Reid. $275ea for machining vs $380ea for 05-12 or $235ea for newer on sale:eek:

Is there anything special about the inner shaft compared to a KP inner shaft?

If shopping for a complete axle for outers only, is there any special considerations for year or model(F250vsF350)?

On the topic of unit bearings:
What is expected mileage lifespan of a unit bearing? One of my rigs would see a bunch of onroad mileage.

Do stock unit bearings fit 40 spline shafts? Or is there a different unit bearing that is needed? If there is a "special" 40 spline unit bearing, can 35 spline shafts be run without issue?

Are there 40 spline lockouts? If not, is there enough meat to broach a set of Yukons?
 
I'll throw in some more research questions.
What is the difference between 2005-2012 and 2012+ knuckles for F250/350? Is it just the brakes? Will the newer brakes work with 17" rim?

It sounds like there was an adapter to go to older brakes with the 2012+ knuckle. Anyone have a link?

Is it worth going with the Super 60(450) setup over a 2005+ F250/350?

In order to go with a Super 60, it sounds like I would need F250/350 unit bearings to get to 8 lug(8x6.5"). Or can the 10 lug be redrilled for 8 lug? Does the stock F250/350 brakes work? Or is it aftermarket only?

In pricing out high steer machining on knuckles, it is almost looking like it is worth going aftermarket like Reid. $275ea for machining vs $380ea for 05-12 or $235ea for newer on sale:eek:

Is there anything special about the inner shaft compared to a KP inner shaft?

If shopping for a complete axle for outers only, is there any special considerations for year or model(F250vsF350)?

On the topic of unit bearings:
What is expected mileage lifespan of a unit bearing? One of my rigs would see a bunch of onroad mileage.

Do stock unit bearings fit 40 spline shafts? Or is there a different unit bearing that is needed? If there is a "special" 40 spline unit bearing, can 35 spline shafts be run without issue?

Are there 40 spline lockouts? If not, is there enough meat to broach a set of Yukons?

450/550 knuckles are large enough to fit Rockwell size joints if that's what you're looking for. If you only care about 1550 joints then go with 250/250 knuckles.

Only thing special about the inner shafts are that 1550 shafts won't fit into standard kingpin knuckles.

All unit bearings will fit 40 spline stubs.

I don't know about mileage life span, but I'd guess at least 100,000 miles as that's probably what the Ford warranty goes to?

Don't know about 40 spline lockouts.
 
I'll throw in some more research questions.
What is the difference between 2005-2012 and 2012+ knuckles for F250/350? Is it just the brakes? Will the newer brakes work with 17" rim?

i think this is covered earlier here

It sounds like there was an adapter to go to older brakes with the 2012+ knuckle. Anyone have a link?

Is it worth going with the Super 60(450) setup over a 2005+ F250/350?

i'd say thats more of a personal preference, how wide do you want to be, how strong to you want to be

In order to go with a Super 60, it sounds like I would need F250/350 unit bearings to get to 8 lug(8x6.5"). Or can the 10 lug be redrilled for 8 lug? Does the stock F250/350 brakes work? Or is it aftermarket only?

In pricing out high steer machining on knuckles, it is almost looking like it is worth going aftermarket like Reid. $275ea for machining vs $380ea for 05-12 or $235ea for newer on sale:eek:

https://www.weaverfabrication.com/pr...-complete-kit/ - weaver its $275 for machining and arms (one side) vs reid is $500 knuckle and arm (one side)

Is there anything special about the inner shaft compared to a KP inner shaft?

If shopping for a complete axle for outers only, is there any special considerations for year or model(F250vsF350)?

On the topic of unit bearings:
What is expected mileage lifespan of a unit bearing? One of my rigs would see a bunch of onroad mileage.

Do stock unit bearings fit 40 spline shafts? Or is there a different unit bearing that is needed? If there is a "special" 40 spline unit bearing, can 35 spline shafts be run without issue?

there are 40spline unit bearings edit: nevermind its the hubs and spindles that are specific


Are there 40 spline lockouts? If not, is there enough meat to broach a set of Yukons?

answered what i could off the top of my head
 
Last edited:
I'll throw in some more research questions.
What is the difference between 2005-2012 and 2012+ knuckles for F250/350? Is it just the brakes? Will the newer brakes work with 17" rim?

I got this in an email from Reid in 2016 when I asked the same question.

Ford used one rotor size from 2005-2012, and then from 2012.5 to present they used a larger size
 
450/550 knuckles are large enough to fit Rockwell size joints if that's what you're looking for. If you only care about 1550 joints then go with 250/250 knuckles.

Only thing special about the inner shafts are that 1550 shafts won't fit into standard kingpin knuckles.

All unit bearings will fit 40 spline stubs.

I don't know about mileage life span, but I'd guess at least 100,000 miles as that's probably what the Ford warranty goes to?

Don't know about 40 spline lockouts.
So the only real reason to get 450/550 is for Rockwell sized joints. And added width if that floats one's boat. In my case, I'll be going custom width.


https://www.weaverfabrication.com/pr...-complete-kit/ - weaver its $275 for machining and arms (one side) vs reid is $500 knuckle and arm (one side)
Hmm... I'll look at a couple of places that looked similar. I may have misread what was being offered.

I'll check again for the later brake minimum rim diameter.
 
450/550 knuckles are large enough to fit Rockwell size joints if that's what you're looking for. If you only care about 1550 joints then go with 250/250 knuckles.

So the only real reason to get 450/550 is for Rockwell sized joints.


Rockwell joints will fit in 05+ 250/350 knuckles/Cs IIRC
 
Are the 2wd beam knuckles & C's the same as 4wd?
Could you bolt on 4wd unit bearings and use them for a custom build if you don't plan to use anything else from the 4wd axle?

​​​​Might be a way to save some cash, I think I read that they are the same in the other thread but maybe I made it up.
They are the same. The 2wd ones just have a plug on the inside of the knuckle.
In looking at the above quotes, it sounds like I could buy 2wd beam setup to scavenge the inner knuckles out. Am I misunderstanding this? I'm running driverside at "custom" widths so I have to hack up whatever I get.

Yeah; aren't the factory minimum size 17"?
The F550 brakes will only clear a 20" wheel<snip>
I found the above two in the thread but it isn't clear if the first applies to 2012+ brakes. It also isn't clear if the second applies to 2012+ F250/F350 brakes.
 
So the only real reason to get 450/550 is for Rockwell sized joints. .

The 550 knuckles are larger than the 250 knuckles. Larger ball joints as well. Could mean the difference between running ball joint eliminators or running sealed balled joints.
Stock form 550 knuckles and 1550 joints turn 45 degrees.
Larger 10" ring and pinion.
The added width on the driver side leaves room for mounting a link bracket between the C and the pumpkin without cutting off some of the pumpkin.
EDIT:
To clarify as years are creating a mix up.
1999-2004 F250 3.5" tube .35" wall metric
1999-2004 F550 3.5" tube .44" wall metric
2005-2010 F250 3.75" tube .35" wall metric
2005-2010 F550 3.75" tube .44" wall metric
 
Last edited:
Originally posted by CDA 455 II View Post
Yeah; aren't the factory minimum size 17"?
Originally posted by HYDRODYNAMIC View Post
The F550 brakes will only clear a 20" wheel<snip>

I found the above two in the thread but it isn't clear if the first applies to 2012+ brakes. It also isn't clear if the second applies to 2012+ F250/F350 brakes.

The brakes on the 550 are HUGE. Technically you can run a 19.5" which is what the dually are stock.
The 2012 F250 rotors jumped up in diameter. I have a friend running stock 2017 alloys on his 2017? F350. 16" wheels will not fit pre 2005 unless you change the brakes.
 
The 550 knuckles are larger than the 250 knuckles. Larger ball joints as well. Could mean the difference between running ball joint eliminators or running sealed balled joints.
Stock form 550 knuckles turn 45 degrees.
The tubes are 3.75" x .5" wall vs 3.5" x.375"
Larger 10" ring and pinion.
The added width on the driver side leaves room for mounting a link bracket between the C and the pumpkin without cutting off some of the pumpkin.

FYI, even stock Kingpin 60s will turn 45 degrees. Need RCVs or clearanced shafts, but the knuckles turn 45 no problem.
 
Does anyone know the size of the bolts that mount the calipers to the front knuckle? 05-12 350 SD60
 
In looking at the above quotes, it sounds like I could buy 2wd beam setup to scavenge the inner knuckles out. Am I misunderstanding this?

You're right, plenty of people did this.
 
Reading along, doing a 2007 D60 in my IH project, with the WFO radius arms. 37" tires... stock Ford axle and suspension - 4.33 gears, going to stick an e-locker in it. I have the matching 10.5 for it.

Don't like how the pan hard bar mounts to the axle, seems that ball join would cause some wobble. Before I go fill it in and fab something up, any kits out there that don't cost me the arm I need to weld?


Also, I don't like the passenger side mount dual mount steering, but don't need high steer either. Thoughts?
 
Reading along, doing a 2007 D60 in my IH project, with the WFO radius arms. 37" tires... stock Ford axle and suspension - 4.33 gears, going to stick an e-locker in it. I have the matching 10.5 for it.

Don't like how the pan hard bar mounts to the axle, seems that ball join would cause some wobble. Before I go fill it in and fab something up, any kits out there that don't cost me the arm I need to weld?


Also, I don't like the passenger side mount dual mount steering, but don't need high steer either. Thoughts?

Weaver fabrication sells an insert for the steering arm hole that let's you use a 5/8 or 3/4 bolt. I don't remember.

Ruffstuff sells what you need to fabricate a pan hard bar that uses hiems. It's not vehicle specific, just parts...
 
Weaver fabrication sells an insert for the steering arm hole that let's you use a 5/8 or 3/4 bolt. I don't remember.

Ruffstuff sells what you need to fabricate a pan hard bar that uses hiems. It's not vehicle specific, just parts...

Yeah, I can do the pan hard bar. No issue.
 
Don't like how the pan hard bar mounts to the axle, seems that ball join would cause some wobble. Before I go fill it in and fab something up, any kits out there that don't cost me the arm I need to weld?

for the panhard ill attach a link to inspire you :flipoff2:

https://carlisuspension.com/product...ents/2017-plus/ford-2017-adjustable-trackbar/

https://bajacustoms.com/trac-inator.html

check out this moth fawkle! i need to go home and see what i have on my truck :laughing:

019a_zpsa66c6663-crop-u9487.jpg?crc=3842702056.jpg
 
Rockwell joints will fit in 05+ 250/350 knuckles/Cs IIRC

Correct, the 05+ 250/350 knuckles will fit 1550 joints but will not fit rcv "big bells" without some clearancing/machining. The 450/550 knuckles will fit the rcv "big bells". I'd consider weights and widths before jumping right to the 450/550 knuckles though.
 
The 550 knuckles are larger than the 250 knuckles. Larger ball joints as well. Could mean the difference between running ball joint eliminators or running sealed balled joints.
Stock form 550 knuckles turn 45 degrees.
The tubes are 3.75" x .5" wall vs 3.5" x.375"
Larger 10" ring and pinion.
The added width on the driver side leaves room for mounting a link bracket between the C and the pumpkin without cutting off some of the pumpkin.
Great list.

When you say 'the tubes are 3.75" vs 3.5"', do you mean the 550 tubes are 3.75" while the 250/350 tubes are 3.5"?

The brakes on the 550 are HUGE. Technically you can run a 19.5" which is what the dually are stock.
The 2012 F250 rotors jumped up in diameter. I have a friend running stock 2017 alloys on his 2017? F350. 16" wheels will not fit pre 2005 unless you change the brakes.
I'll steer this comment back to part of my original question: will 17" rims fit the larger 2012 250/350 brakes?

You're right, plenty of people did this.
Thank you for the confirmation.

Hopefully last bit of questions for me.
If I just need inner c's out, 2wd or 4wd and f250 or f350 will work. Or if I want a super 60, 2wd or 4wd f450 or f550.
If I want a complete axle, f250 or f350 but I have to watch for a d50.

Did I miss it?
 
Yeah, I want to remove the wobbly track bar ball joint and go with something more tried and true, like a bolt in the opposite plane.

Anything out there? Just that joint, I am not spending 500+ on a complete bar, that I have to cut up and weld to fit my C30 chassis.
 
Have you looked at where it is? Can you get a clean weld on the axle with all the other crap there?

what am i an asshole? :flipoff2:

https://bajacustoms.com/trac-inator.html

-1" Hiem joint, part # JMX16T

-1" Uniball, part # FKSSX16T

-Bar, 1.625" OD x .25" wall DOM steel tube, laser cut plate, welded and powder coated black

-Chromalloy uniball cup, zinc plated

-Uniball hi-miss spacers, zinc plated

-Hiem spacers, zinc plated

-Hiem isolators

-Grade 9, 3/4 bolt and hardware at the axle

-Grade 10.9 bolt and hardware at the frame



Note: Bars purchased before 2016 used the JMX16t-1 hiem size.


uniball%20trac.jpg?crc=4031699495.jpg
 
what am i an asshole? :flipoff2:

https://bajacustoms.com/trac-inator.html

-1" Hiem joint, part # JMX16T

-1" Uniball, part # FKSSX16T

-Bar, 1.625" OD x .25" wall DOM steel tube, laser cut plate, welded and powder coated black

-Chromalloy uniball cup, zinc plated

-Uniball hi-miss spacers, zinc plated

-Hiem spacers, zinc plated

-Hiem isolators

-Grade 9, 3/4 bolt and hardware at the axle

-Grade 10.9 bolt and hardware at the frame



Note: Bars purchased before 2016 used the JMX16t-1 hiem size.



Yeah, that's the kit. I am not a stock Ford. They're real proud of that. I may rig something similar though.
 
Oh okay :laughing: I thought you skimmed over it

yeah, all I really need is the uniball and bushings. I have the other stuff. Thing is, I have nothing factory to go off, so need to build my own track bar.
 
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